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Isuzu Rodeo Ls 4wd Workshop Manual (V6-3.2L (1998))
Isuzu - Rodeo - Wiring Diagram - 2000 - 2000
Isuzu Rodeo (2wd) Workshop Manual (L4-2559cc 2.6L SOHC (4ZE1) (1991))
Isuzu Engine 6VE1 3.5L Workshop Manual
Isuzu Ascender 2wd Workshop Manual (L6-4.2L (2003))
Isuzu Ascender 4wd Workshop Manual (L6-4.2L (2003))
2004-2007 ISUZU TF SERIES WORKSHOP MANUAL PDF
2003-05--Isuzu--Ascender 4WD--8 Cylinders P 5.3L MFI OHV--32923203
Ascender 4WD V8-5.3L (2004)
1997-2004--Isuzu--Rodeo 2WD--6 Cylinders V 3.2L MFI SOHC--32345801
Isuzu I-350 Workshop Manual (L5-3.5L (2006))
Isuzu Oasis Ls Workshop Manual (L4-2156cc 2.2L SOHC MFI F22B6 (1997))
Isuzu Rodeo Ls 2wd Workshop Manual (V6-3165cc 3.2L SOHC (6VD1) (1997))
Isuzu Ascender 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.3L (2004))
Isuzu Hombre S Regular Cab 2wd Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L CPC (1998))
Ascender 2WD V8-5.3L (2004)
Isuzu Rodeo Lse 2wd Workshop Manual (V6-3.2L (1999))
Isuzu Rodeo Sport 2wd Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L (2002))
1997-2004--Isuzu--Rodeo 4WD--6 Cylinders W 3.2L MFI DOHC--32584501
Isuzu Rodeo (4wd) Workshop Manual (V6-3165cc 3.2L SOHC (6VD1) (1993))
Isuzu Amigo 4wd Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L (1998))
Isuzu Rodeo 2wd Workshop Manual (V6-3.2L (2003))
Isuzu Ascender 4wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.3L (2004))
Isuzu Stylus Workshop Manual (L4-1588cc 1.6L SOHC (4XE1-V) (1992))
Isuzu - D-Max - Parts Catalogue - 2008 - 2008
Isuzu Impulse Hatchback Workshop Manual (L4-1588cc 1.6L DOHC (4XE1-W) (1992))
Isuzu Amigo 4wd Workshop Manual (V6-3.2L (1999))
Isuzu Engine C24SE Workshop Manual
Isuzu Rodeo S 2wd Workshop Manual (V6-3.2L (1998))
1981-1996--Isuzu--Rodeo 2WD--4 Cylinders E 2.6L MFI SOHC--31943601
Isuzu - Amigo - Wiring Diagram - (1993)
Isuzu - F Series - Workshop Manual - 1999 - 1999
Isuzu - Amigo - Workshop Manual - 1993 - 1993
Isuzu Hombre Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L CPC (1996))
1981-1991--Isuzu--I-Mark--4 Cylinders 5 1.6L MFI DOHC--31044903
2002-05--Isuzu--Axiom 2WD--6 Cylinders Y 3.5L MFI DOHC--32923302
Isuzu Rodeo S 2wd Workshop Manual (L4-2559cc 2.6L SOHC (4ZE1) (1997))
Isuzu Rodeo S 4wd Workshop Manual (V6-3.2L (1999))
Isuzu - I290 - Wiring Diagram - 1994 - 1995
Isuzu Axiom 2wd Workshop Manual (V6-3.5L (2002))
2004 Isuzu Ascender Electrical Wiring Diagram PDF
Isuzu Rodeo Lse 4wd Workshop Manual (V6-3.2L (2000))
Isuzu Stylus Workshop Manual (L4-1588cc 1.6L DOHC (4XE1-W) (1991))
Isuzu Rodeo S 4wd Workshop Manual (V6-3165cc 3.2L SOHC (6VD1) (1997))
1981-1996--Isuzu--Rodeo 4WD--6 Cylinders V 3.2L MFI SOHC--32157901
Isuzu Rodeo Sport 4wd Workshop Manual (V6-3.2L (2002))
2003-05--Isuzu--Ascender 2WD--8 Cylinders P 5.3L MFI OHV--32923103
Isuzu - D-Max - Workshop Manual - 1996 - 1996
Isuzu Hombre S Regular Cab Workshop Manual (L4-2.2L CPC (1997))
Isuzu - Rodeo - Wiring Diagram - 1992 - 1997
1981-1996--Isuzu--Truck 4WD--4 Cylinders E 2.6L MFI SOHC--32321501
2003-05--Isuzu--Ascender 4WD--6 Cylinders S 4.2L MFI DOHC--32871001
1981-1996--Isuzu--Truck 2WD--4 Cylinders L 2.3L 2BL SOHC--32321801
Isuzu - FRR 90 - Sales Brochure - 1970 - 2017
Isuzu - Ascender - Workshop Manual - 2004 - 2004
Isuzu - Amigo - Wiring Diagram - 1999 - 1999
Isuzu Industrial Engine AA-6SD1T Workshop Manual PDF
2003 Isuzu Ascender Wiring Diagram PDF
Isuzu - F Series - Owners Manual - 2016 - 2016
1993-1996 Isuzu KB TF140 Workshop Manual
Summary of Content
General Information & Maintenance ISUZU Amigo/Pick-ups/Rodeo/Trooper 1981-1996 Avoiding Trouble Many procedures in this guide require you to "label and disconnect ... '' a group of lines, hoses or wires. Don't be lulled into thinking you can remember where everything goes-you won't. If you hook up vacuum or fuel lines incorrectly, the vehicle will run poorly, if at all. If you hook up electrical wiring incorrectly, you may instantly learn a very expensive lesson. Print You don't need to know the official or engineering name for each hose or line. A piece of masking tape on the hose and a piece on its fitting will allow you to assign your own label such as the letter A or a short name. As long as you remember your own code, the lines can be reconnected by matching similar letters or names. Do remember that tape will dissolve in gasoline or other fluids; if a component is to be washed or cleaned, use another method of identification. A permanent felt-tipped marker can be very handy for marking metal parts. Remove any tape or paper labels after assembly. Back to Top ISUZU Amigo/Pick-ups/Rodeo/Trooper 1981-1996 Avoiding the Most Common Mistakes Pay attention to the instructions provided. There are 3 common mistakes in mechanical work: Print 1. Incorrect order of assembly, disassembly or adjustment. When taking something apart or putting it together, performing steps in the wrong order usually just costs you extra time; however, it CAN break something. Read the entire procedure before beginning disassembly. Perform everything in the order in which the instructions say you should, even if you can't immediately see a reason for it. When you're taking apart something that is very intricate, you might want to draw a picture of how it looks when assembled at one point in order to make sure you get everything back in its proper position. We will supply exploded views whenever possible. When making adjustments, perform them in the proper order; often, one adjustment affects another, and you cannot expect even satisfactory results unless each adjustment is made only when it cannot be changed by any other. 2. Overtightening (or undertightening). While it is more common for overtorquing to cause damage, undertightening may allow a fastener to vibrate loose causing serious damage. Especially when dealing with aluminum parts, pay attention to torque specifications and utilize a torque wrench in assembly. If a torque figure is not available, remember that if you are using the right tool to perform the job, you will probably not have to strain yourself to get a fastener tight enough. The pitch of most threads is so slight that the tension you put on the wrench will be multiplied many times in actual force on what you are tightening. A good example of how critical torque is can be seen in the case of spark plug installation, especially where you are putting the plug into an aluminum cylinder head. Too little torque can fail to crush the gasket, causing leakage of combustion gases and consequent overheating of the plug and engine parts. Too much torque can damage the threads or distort the plug, changing the spark gap. There are many commercial products available for ensuring that fasteners won't come loose, even if they are not torqued just right (a very common brand is Loctite®). If you're worried about getting something together tight enough to hold, but loose enough to avoid mechanical damage during assembly, one of these products might offer substantial insurance. Before choosing a threadlocking compound, read the label on the package and make sure the product is compatible with the materials, fluids, etc. involved. 3. Crossthreading. This occurs when a part such as a bolt is screwed into a nut or casting at the wrong angle and forced. Crossthreading is more likely to occur if access is difficult. It helps to clean and lubricate fasteners, then to start threading with the part to be installed positioned straight in. Then, start the bolt, spark plug, etc. with your fingers. If you encounter resistance, unscrew the part and start over again at a different angle until it can be inserted and turned several times without much effort. Keep in mind that many parts, especially spark plugs, have tapered threads, so that gentle turning will automatically bring the part you're threading to the proper angle, but only if you don't force it or resist a change in angle. Don't put a wrench on the part until it's been tightened a couple of turns by hand. If you suddenly encounter resistance, and the part has not seated fully, don't force it. Pull it back out to make sure it's clean and threading properly. Always take your time and be patient; once you have some experience, working on your vehicle may well become an enjoyable hobby. Back to Top ISUZU Amigo/Pick-ups/Rodeo/Trooper 1981-1996 HOW TO USE THIS INFORMATION Information guide for Isuzu trucks and sport utility vehicles is intended to help you learn more about the inner workings of your vehicle while saving you money on its upkeep and operation. Print The beginning of the guide will likely be referred to the most, since that is where you will find information for maintenance and tune-up. The other sections deal with the more complex systems of your vehicle. Operating systems from engine through brakes are covered to the extent that the average do-it-yourselfer becomes mechanically involved. This guide will not explain such things as rebuilding a differential for the simple reason that the expertise required and the investment in special tools make this task uneconomical. It will, however, give you detailed instructions to help you change your own brake pads and shoes, replace spark plugs, and perform many more jobs that can save you money, give you personal satisfaction and help you avoid expensive problems. A secondary purpose of this guide is a reference for owners who want to understand their vehicle and/or their mechanics better. In this case, no tools at all are required. Back to Top ISUZU Amigo/Pick-ups/Rodeo/Trooper 1981-1996 Maintenance or RepairIt's necessary to mention the difference between maintenance and repair. Maintenance includes routine inspections, adjustments, and Print replacement of parts which show signs of normal wear. Maintenance compensates for wear or deterioration. Repair implies that something has broken or is not working. A need for repair is often caused by lack of maintenance. Example: draining and refilling the automatic transmission fluid is maintenance recommended by the manufacturer at specific mileage intervals. Failure to do this can ruin the transmission, requiring very expensive repairs. While no maintenance program can prevent items from breaking or wearing out, a general rule can be stated: MAINTENANCE IS CHEAPER THAN REPAIR. Two basic mechanic's rules should be mentioned here. First, whenever the left side of the vehicle or engine is referred to, it is meant to specify the driver's side. Conversely, the right side of the vehicle means the passenger's side. Second, most screws and bolts are removed by turning counterclockwise, and tightened by turning clockwise. Safety is always the most important rule. Constantly be aware of the dangers involved in working on an automobile and take the proper precautions. See the information in this section regarding SERVICING YOUR VEHICLE SAFELY and the SAFETY NOTICE on the acknowledgment page. Back to Top ISUZU Amigo/Pick-ups/Rodeo/Trooper 1981-1996 Where to Begin Before removing any bolts, read through the entire procedure. This will give you the overall view of what tools and supplies will be required. There is nothing more frustrating than having to walk to the bus stop on Monday morning because you were short one bolt on Sunday afternoon. So read ahead and plan ahead. Each operation should be approached logically and all procedures thoroughly understood before attempting any work. Print All sections contain adjustments, maintenance, removal and installation procedures, and in some cases, repair or overhaul procedures. When repair is not considered practical, we tell you how to remove the part and then how to install the new or rebuilt replacement. In this way, you at least save the labor costs. Backyard repair of some components is just not practical. Back to Top Engine Electrical ISUZU Amigo/Pick-ups/Rodeo/Trooper 1981-1996 Adjustments AIR GAP Print See Figures 1, 2 and 3 Fig. Fig. 1: Using a feeler gauge to check the distributor air gap Fig. Fig. 2: Air gap check point-Amigo and Pick-up models Fig. Fig. 3: Loosen the retainer screw and use a screwdriver to adjust the gap On all 4-cylinder engines using the conventional distributor with vacuum advance, the air gap setting in the distributor should be checked and adjusted before the ignition timing is adjusted. 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the distributor cap, O-ring and rotor. 3. Use a feeler gauge to measure the air gap at the pick up coil projection. The gap should be 0.008-0.016 in. (0.20-0.40mm) for the G200Z engine, or 0.012-0.020 in. (0.30-0.50mm) for the 4ZD1 engine; adjust it if necessary. 4. Loosen the screws and move the signal generator until the gap is correct. Tighten the screws and recheck the gap. The electrical parts in this system are not repairable. If found to be defective, they must be replaced. Back to Top ISUZU Amigo/Pick-ups/Rodeo/Trooper 1981-1996 Diagnosis and Testing See Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8 Print Before beginning any diagnosis and testing procedures, visually inspect the components of the ignition system and engine control systems. Check for the following: Discharged battery Damaged or loose connections Damaged electrical insulation Poor coil and spark plug connections Ignition module connections Blown fuses Damaged vacuum hoses Damaged spark plugs Check the spark plug wires and boots for signs of poor insulation that could cause crossfiring. Make sure the battery is fully charged and that all accessories are off during diagnosis and testing. Make sure the idle speed is within specification. You will need a good quality volt-ohmmeter and a spark tester in order to check the ignition system. A spark tester resembles a spark plug without threads and the side electrode removed. Using a modified spark plug is as a spark tester is not recommended. When attempting to search for ignition troubles, keep in mind the various sensor inputs which the control module uses to calculate timing may affect engine performance. The PCM will alter timing based on sensor inputs as follows: Low MAP output voltage = More spark advance Cold engine = More spark advance High MAP output voltage = Less spark advance Hot engine = Less spark advance With this in mind, DETONATION could be caused by low MAP output or high resistance in the coolant sensor circuit. POOR PERFORMANCE could be caused by a high MAP output or low resistance in the coolant sensor circuit. Fig. Fig. 1: Schematic of the Electronic Distributor Ignition System-4ZD1 and 4ZE1 engines Fig. Fig. 2: Electronic Ignition Diagnostic Chart 1 Fig. Fig. 3: Electronic Ignition Diagnostic Chart 2 Fig. Fig. 4: Electronic Ignition Diagnostic Chart 3 Fig. Fig. 5: Electronic Ignition Diagnostic Chart 4 Fig. Fig. 6: Schematic of the Electronic Distributor Ignition System-V6 Trooper Fig. Fig. 7: Schematic of the Electronic Distributor Ignition System-V6 Rodeo Fig. Fig. 8: Electronic Ignition Diagnostic Chart-V6 engine INPUT VOLTAGE TEST See Figure 9 Fig. Fig. 9: Checking the input voltage-1981 Pick-up 1. Place the ignition switch in the ON position. 2. Using a suitable voltmeter, measure the voltage between the positive (+) terminal of the coil and a ground. 3. The standard voltage should be approximately 12 volts. If the voltage is not within specification, check the wiring and connectors. As long as the wiring and connectors are OK, replace the coil if testing deems it to be defective. Back to Top ISUZU Amigo/Pick-ups/Rodeo/Trooper 1981-1996 Distributor REMOVAL Print See Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 and 9 Fig. Fig. 1: Distributor mounted to the side of the engine-2.3L and 2.6L engines Fig. Fig. 2: Remove the air cleaner and hoses to access the distributor-3.1L engine Fig. Fig. 3: On 1.8L and 2.0L engines, remove the distributor cap O-ring Fig. Fig. 4: If removing the spark plug wires, tag each wire before disconnecting Fig. Fig. 5: Loosen the distributor cap retainer clips Fig. Fig. 6: Lift the distributor cap off and place aside Fig. Fig. 7: Place alignment marks on the rotor cap, distributor body ... Fig. Fig. 8: ... and cylinder head Fig. Fig. 9: With the distributor hold-down clamp removed, carefully lift the assembly out of the mounting hole 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the air cleaner and hoses, if additional working space is needed. 3. Tag and disconnect the electrical harnesses either from the distributor or from the ignition coil, depending on model and coil location. 4. Remove the distributor cap from the distributor and position aside. If possible, do not remove the coil or spark plug wires. 5. If equipped, disconnect the vacuum hose from the distributor vacuum advance module. 6. Using paint or equivalent, scribe alignment marks on the rotor-to-distributor and distributor housing-to-engine head or block. 7. Loosen and remove the distributor hold-down bolt and clamp, then carefully lift the distributor out of the engine. Note the position of the rotor alignment. 8. Remove the distributor housing seal and discard. INSTALLATION Undisturbed Engine This condition exists if the engine has not been rotated while the distributor was removed. 1. Lubricate a new housing seal with oil and install on the distributor. 2. With the rotor aligned with the mark on the housing, install the distributor, taking care to align the distributor body mark with the mark scribed on the engine. It may be necessary to lift the distributor and turn the rotor slightly to properly align the gears and the oil pump driveshaft. 3. With the respective marks aligned, install the hold-down clamp and bolt finger-tight. 4. If equipped, connect the vacuum hose to the distributor vacuum advance module. 5. Install and secure the distributor cap to the distributor body. 6. Attach the electrical harness(es) to the distributor or coil, depending on engine and coil location. 7. If removed, connect the spark plug and coil wires. 8. If removed, install the air cleaner and hoses. 9. Connect the negative battery cable. Connect a timing light to the engine (following the manufacturer's instructions), then start the engine and check the timing. Adjust, as necessary. 10. Turn the engine OFF and tighten the distributor clamp bolt. 11. Start the engine and recheck the timing. Disturbed Engine See Figures 10 and 11 Fig. Fig. 10: Aligning the 2.3L and 2.6L engines' crankshaft pulley and timing marks Fig. Fig. 11: Aligning the crankshaft pulley on a 3.1L engine This condition exists when the engine has been rotated with the distributor removed. 1. Lubricate a new housing seal with oil and install on the distributor. 2. Rotate the crankshaft to position the No. 1 piston at Top Dead Center (TDC) of the compression stroke. This may be determined by removing the No. 1 spark plug and inserting a rag into the No. 1 spark plug hole, then slowly turning the engine crankshaft. When the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley aligns with the 0° mark on the timing scale and the rag is blown out by the compression, the No. 1 piston is close to TDC. If you are unsure when TDC is reached, remove the valve cover and watch the rocker arms for the No. 1 cylinder. If the valves move as the crankshaft timing marker approaches the scale, the No. 1 piston is on its exhaust stroke. If the valves remain closed as the timing mark approaches the scale, then the No. 1 piston is approaching TDC of the compression stroke. 3. Turn the rotor so that it will point to the No. 1 terminal of the distributor cap. 4. Install the distributor into the engine block. It may be necessary to turn the rotor to engage the distributor and oil pump drive gears. 5. Rotate the engine two revolutions and bring the No. 1 piston to TDC again, then check to see that the rotor is pointing toward the No. 1 terminal of the cap. 6. With the marks aligned, install the hold-down clamp and bolt finger-tight. 7. Install and secure the distributor cap. 8. Attach the electrical harness(es) to the distributor and, if equipped, the vacuum advance hose. 9. If removed, connect the spark plug and coil wires. 10. If removed, be sure to install the air cleaner and hoses. 11. Connect the negative battery cable. 12. Connect a timing light to the engine (following the manufacturer's instructions). Start the engine, then check and adjust the timing, as necessary. 13. Turn the engine OFF and tighten the distributor clamp bolt. 14. Start the engine and recheck the timing to verify that it did not change while tightening the hold-down bolt, then stop the engine and remove the timing light. Back to Top ISUZU Amigo/Pick-ups/Rodeo/Trooper 1981-1996 General Information See Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4 Fig. Fig. 1: Schematic of 2.3L and 2.6L engine ignition system Fig. Fig. 2: Schematic of 3.1L engine ignition system Print Fig. Fig. 3: Transistorized type distributor-Amigo shown Fig. Fig. 4: Vacuum advance type distributor and components-Pick-up models There are 2 types of electronic ignition systems used on Isuzu trucks: one uses a conventional centrifugal advance type distributor. The second system uses a fully transistorized type distributor. Conventional type distributors are made up of the distributor shaft, rotor shaft, rotor head, breaker assembly, reluctor, governor flyweight, pinion gear and vacuum control unit. Transistorized distributors consist of dust bushing, rotor, pinion and a crank angle sensor built into the distributor housing. The crank angle sensor uses a photo-electric pick-up to measure piston position and engine speed. The computer, or Electronic Control Module (ECM), monitors the information from the engine sensor network. The ECM uses this information to calculate the proper spark timing and tell the distributor when to make timing modifications. Some engines are equipped with an Electronic Spark Control (ESC) system. At the heart of the ESC system is the knock sensor which is mounted to the engine block. The knock sensor is connected to the electronic spark control module which is located on the right fender panel in the engine compartment or on a bracket mounted to the block. In response to engine knock, the sensor transmits a signal to the electronic spark module (half function box''). The spark control module sends the signal to the ECM which in turn tells the distributor to retard the spark timing up to 20° to reduce spark knock in the engine. Back to Top ISUZU Amigo/Pick-ups/Rodeo/Trooper 1981-1996 Igniter TESTING Print See Figures 1 and 2 Fig. Fig. 1: Disconnect the coil wire and place it next to the bracket screw Fig. Fig. 2: Applying voltage to test the igniter 1. Remove the distributor cap. 2. Disconnect the ignition coil high tension cable at the distributor side. Move the high tension cable end to the coil retainer screw/bolt and maintain a 1 / 4 in. (6mm) clearance. 3. Place the ignition switch in the ON position. 4. Connect a 1.5 volt dry cell to the red igniter wiring terminal at the positive side, and the white wiring terminal to the negative side. Do not apply voltage to the igniter for more than three seconds at a time to avoid destroying the power transistor in the igniter. 5. The igniter is normal when sparks are generated between the high tension cable and ground. 6. If the igniter fails this test (no sparks), replace it. 7. Reconnect all disconnected wiring and install all removed parts. REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1981-85 Models WITHOUT VACUUM ADVANCE 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the distributor cap, seal and rotor. 3. Remove the igniter cover and igniter assembly. To install: 4. Install the igniter and adjust the gap between the pick-up coil and coil projections with a feeler gauge. The measurement should be 0.008-0.016 in. (0.2-0.4mm). 5. Install the igniter cover, rotor, seal and cap. 6. Connect the battery cable and check vehicle operation. WITH VACUUM ADVANCE 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the distributor cap, rotor and seal. 3. Remove the vacuum control screw and vacuum advance canister. 4. Disconnect the wiring harness. 5. Remove the retractor roll pin. Pry loose the retractor outer cover, then insert a suitable prybar into the lower side of the retractor and pull it free. 6. Remove the igniter and breaker plate assembly. Remove the stator, magnet and igniter. To install: 7. Install the igniter, stator and magnet. 8. Install the retractor with the roll pin notch and retractor notch in parallel alignment. 9. Install the harness, vacuum advance, distributor cap, seal and rotor. 10. Connect the negative battery cable. 11. Check the vacuum canister by applying vacuum to the vacuum port. The breaker plate should move freely and hold vacuum. 1986-91 4-Cylinder Models See Figures 3 and 4 Fig. Fig. 3: Unfastening the retainer screws to remove the igniter Fig. Fig. 4: Igniter assembly and distributor components 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the distributor cap retaining screws and cap. 3. Remove the rotor. 4. Disconnect the module electrical harness. 5. Remove the module retaining screws and module assembly. To install: 6. Clean the module mating surfaces. Apply a coat of dielectric compound to both module and mating surfaces. This compound helps absorb heat and is essential for long module life. 7. Install the igniter module and tighten the retaining screws. 8. Connect the electrical harness. 9. Install the rotor and distributor cap. 10. Connect the battery cable and check vehicle operation. Back to Top ISUZU Amigo/Pick-ups/Rodeo/Trooper 1981-1996 Ignition Coil TESTING Primary Coil Resistance See Figures 1, 2 and 3 Print Fig. Fig. 1: Checking coil resistance of a conventional coil-1981-85 models Fig. Fig. 2: To check the primary resistance of an electronic coil, connect an ohmmeter between points A and C-4-cylinder engines Fig. Fig. 3: To check the primary resistance, connect an ohmmeter between the indicated terminals-6-cylinder engines 1. Place the ignition switch in the OFF position. 2. Tad and disconnect the ignition coil terminals. 3. Using a suitable ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the ignition coil positive terminal and the ignition coil negative terminal. 4. The standard resistance should be 1.130-1.529 ohms. If the resistance is not within specification, check the wiring and connectors. Replace the coil if found defective. Secondary Coil Resistance See Figures 4 and 5 Fig. Fig. 4: To check secondary resistance of an electronic coil, connect an ohmmeter between points A and B-4-cylinder engines Fig. Fig. 5: To check the secondary resistance, attach an ohmmeter between the coil high tension terminal and the indicated connection-6-cylinder engines 1. Place the ignition switch in the OFF position. 2. Tag and disconnect the ignition coil terminals. 3. Using a suitable ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the ignition coil positive terminal and the high voltage terminal. 4. The standard resistance should be 10.20-13.80 kilo-ohms. If the resistance is not within specification, check the wiring and connectors. Replace the coil if found defective. Insulation Resistance See Figure 6 Fig. Fig. 6: To check the insulator resistance, connect an ohmmeter between the coil positive terminal and the body of the coil-1993 6-cylinder engine 1. Place the ignition switch in the OFF position. 2. Tag and disconnect the ignition coil terminals. 3. Using a suitable ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the ignition coil positive terminal and the body of the coil. 4. The standard resistance should be more than 10 milo-ohms. If the resistance is not within specification, check the wiring and connectors. Replace the coil if found defective. REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1981-85 Models See Figure 7 Fig. Fig. 7: 1981-85 coil assembly 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Tag and disconnect the ignition coil, condenser and transistor leads. 3. Remove the coil and bracket assembly. Remove the bracket assembly from the coil. To install: 4. Install the bracket to the coil and tighten the retaining screw. 5. Install the assembly to the vehicle and torque the mounting bolts to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm). 6. Connect all coil wires, then connect the negative battery cable. 7. Check for proper vehicle operation. 1986-96 4-Cylinder Models See Figures 8, 9 and 10 Fig. Fig. 8: Coil assembly-1987 4-cylinder Trooper Fig. Fig. 9: Coil assembly-1989 4-cylinder Trooper Fig. Fig. 10: Coil assembly-1992 4-cylinder Rodeo 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Tag and disconnect the coil high tension and harness connector. 3. Remove the two retaining screws and the coil assembly. To install: 4. Install the assembly and tighten the bolts to 11 ft. lbs. (14 Nm). 5. Connect the high tension wire and harness connector to the coil. 6. Connect the negative battery cable. 7. Check for proper vehicle operation. Trooper II and Rodeo With V6 Engine See Figures 11, 12, 13 and 14 Fig. Fig. 11: Unfasten the coil harness-Trooper shown Fig. Fig. 12: Remove the coil high tension wire Fig. Fig. 13: Loosen and remove the coil retainer bolts Fig. Fig. 14: Remove the coil from the retainer bracket 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Tag and disconnect the ignition coil high tension wire and electrical connections. 3. Remove the mounting bolts and coil assembly. To install: 4. Install the coil and mounting bolts. Torque the bolts to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm). 5. Connect the high tension wire and all electrical connections. 6. Connect the negative battery cable. Check for proper vehicle operation. Back to Top ISUZU Amigo/Pick-ups/Rodeo/Trooper 1981-1996 Ignition Module TESTING Most ignition modules cannot be tested using basic tools and equipment. Therefore, if you suspect a defective ignition module, it must be removed and taken to a qualified shop with the necessary diagnostic equipment. Print REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 6-Cylinder Engines See Figure 1 Fig. Fig. 1: Exploded view of the distributor-1991 6-cylinder Rodeo Some distributors may require partial disassembly in order to remove and replace the ignition module. Though most modules are replaceable without disassembling the distributor, removing the distributor assembly from the engine will make access to the components easier. If you wish to avoid removing the distributor from the engine, remove the cap and rotor to see if access to the module retainers and connectors is possible, then decide if you want to remove the distributor. 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the distributor cap and position aside with the wires attached. 3. If necessary, remove the distributor from the engine and place it on a clean work surface. 4. If necessary, remove the rotor from the distributor assembly. If needed, remove the packing ring and the cover. 5. If applicable, remove the electrical harness-to-distributor screw. 6. Disengage the electrical harness from the ignition module. 7. Remove the ignition module retaining screws, then lift the module from the distributor. If equipped, be sure to remove the spacers from the module. To install: 8. Apply a coat of silicone lubricant to the base of the ignition module to aid in heat dissipation. 9. Install the ignition module to the distributor assembly and secure using the retainer screws. If equipped, be sure to properly position the spacers during installation. 10. Attach the harness to the ignition module, then if equipped, install the harness retaining screw. 11. If applicable, install the packing ring and cover. 12. Install the rotor to the distributor assembly. 13. If removed, install the distributor. 14. Install the cap to the distributor assembly. If any wiring was disconnected, be sure to engage it as tagged or noted during removal. 15. Connect the negative battery cable. Back to Top ISUZU Amigo/Pick-ups/Rodeo/Trooper 1981-1996 Pick-up Coil TESTING Print 4-Cylinder Models 1. Place the ignition switch in the OFF position. 2. Disconnect the ignition coil terminals. 3. Using a suitable ohmmeter, measure the pick-up coil resistance between the pick-up coil terminals. 4. The standard resistance should be 140-180 ohms. If the resistance is not within specification, check the wiring and connectors. Replace the pick-up coil if defective. 6-Cylinder Models See Figures 1 and 2 Fig. Fig. 1: Checking pick-up coil resistance-6-cylinder models Fig. Fig. 2: Checking the pick-up coil for a break in the wiring-6-cylinder models 1. Disconnect the pick-up coil wiring. 2. Switch the ohmmeter to the middle ohms scale. 3. Measure the coil resistance between either of the pick-up coil leads and the housing. Infinite resistance should be read. 4. Connect the ohmmeter probes across the coil leads and measure the resistance. It should read 500-1000 ohms. Flex the lead wires at the coil and connector by hand to check for intermittent opens in the wiring. 5. If the resistance readings are not within specifications, replace the coil. REMOVAL & INSTALLATION See Figures 3 and 4 Fig. Fig. 3: Exploded view of 2.3L engine's distributor Fig. Fig. 4: Exploded view of 3.1L engine's distributor 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the distributor cap, with the spark plug wires attached, and place aside. Remove the rotor cap. 3. Unfasten the harness attached to the distributor and pick-up coil. 4. Remove the pick-up coil retainer. Unfasten the pick-up coil wire harness plastic connector at the side of the distributor. Slide the pick-up coil off the distributor shaft. To install: 5. Lubricate the distributor shaft lightly with oil. Slide the pick-up coil down the shaft and position in place. Install the pick-up coil retainer clip to secure the coil in place. 6. Attach the wire harness to the side of the distributor body, making sure none of the wires could get caught in the distributor while it rotates. 7. Attach the wire harness to the distributor and pick-up coil. 8. Install the rotor and distributor cap. 9. Connect the negative battery cable. 10. Check for proper vehicle operation. Back to Top Engine & Engine Overhaul ISUZU Amigo/Pick-ups/Rodeo/Trooper 1981-1996 Block Heater REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print See Figure 1 Fig. Fig. 1: Engine block heater-diesel engine shown The engine block heater is located under the exhaust manifold in place of an engine freeze plug. Allow the engine to cool, drain the antifreeze into a suitable container and position the pan under the block heater. Loosen the retaining bolt and remove the heater from the engine. CAUTION When draining the coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted by ethylene glycol antifreeze, and are quite likely to drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantity. Always drain the coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or several years old. Clean the mounting surface, apply sealer to the heater, install the heater and tighten the retaining bolt. 1 To engine freeze plug can be removed by drilling a / 8 in. (3mm) hole and thread a body dent puller into the hole and pull outward. An alternative is to drive a prybar into the lower edge of the plug and pull through the hole. When installing the plug, coat the outer edge with sealer and drive the plug in with a socket that fits inside the lip and a hammer. Back to Top ISUZU Amigo/Pick-ups/Rodeo/Trooper 1981-1996 Camshaft Most engines covered by this guide utilize lifters between the camshaft and valve train. On all engines equipped with lifters, a complete new set of lifters must be installed whenever the camshaft is replaced. Excessive camshaft and lifter wear can occur if they are not replaced as a set. REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1.8L and 2.0L Engines See Figures 1, 2 and 3 Print Fig. Fig. 1: Camshaft timing marks-1.8L and 2.0L engines Fig. Fig. 2: Camshaft timing marks-1.8L and 2.0L engines Fig. Fig. 3: Rocker arm bolt torque sequence-4-cylinder gasoline engine 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the rocker arm cover. 3. Rotate the engine until the No. 4 piston is at Top Dead Center (TDC) on the compression stroke. Remove the distributor cap and mark the rotor to housing position. 4. Release the tension on the automatic timing chain adjuster by performing the following procedures: A. Using a small prybar, depress the lock lever on the automatic adjuster rearward. B. Push on the automatic adjuster shoe and lock it into the retracted position by releasing the lever. 5. Remove the camshaft sprocket-to-camshaft bolt, the sprocket and suspend the assembly on the wire; allow the chain to remain on the sprocket. 6. Remove the rocker arm brackets-to-cylinder head bolts and the rocker arm bracket assembly from the cylinder head. 7. Remove the camshaft from the cylinder head. To install: 8. Lubricate the camshaft with engine oil and install it onto the cylinder head. 9. Install the rocker arm assembly onto the cylinder head and torque the bolts to 16 ft. lbs. (21 Nm). 10. Align the camshaft sprocket hole with camshaft dowel pin and install the sprocket. Torque the camshaft sprocket-to-camshaft bolt to 50-65 ft. lbs. (68-88 Nm). 11. Set the automatic adjuster by turning the adjuster slide pin 90° counterclockwise with a small prybar. 12. Adjust the valve lash. 13. Install the rocker arm cover and make sure the alignment marks are aligned. 14. To complete the installation, reverse the removal procedures. Start the engine and check and/or adjust the timing. 2.2L Gasoline Engine 1. Properly relieve the fuel system pressure, then disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Drain the engine cooling system and the engine oil. 3. Remove the radiator. 4. Remove the rocker arm cover. 5. Remove the cylinder head. 6. Remove the anti-rotation bracket bolts and brackets, then remove the valve lifters. 7. Remove the oil pump drive retaining bolt, then remove the drive by lifting and twisting. 8. Remove the crankshaft pulley and hub. 9. Remove the serpentine drive belt idler pulley. 10. Remove the timing cover from the engine. 11. Remove the timing chain and camshaft sprocket. 12. Remove the camshaft thrust plate retaining bolts, then remove the plate from the block. 13. Pull the camshaft straight out of the engine, turning slightly as it is withdrawn and taking care not to damage the bearings. 14. If necessary, remove the camshaft bearings using J-33049 or an equivalent camshaft bearing remover/installer. To install: 15. Inspect the camshaft, journals and lobes for wear and replace, if necessary. 16. If removed, use the camshaft bearing tool to install a new set of bearings. 17. Coat the camshaft lobes and journals with a high viscosity oil with zinc such as No. 12345501, or equivalent. 18. Carefully insert the camshaft in the engine, turning it slightly from side to side and it is inserted. 19. Install the thrust plate and tighten the retaining bolts to 106 inch lbs. (12 Nm). 20. Install the timing chain and camshaft sprocket. 21. Install the timing cover to the engine. 22. Install the serpentine drive belt idler pulley. 23. Install the crankshaft pulley and hub. 24. Install the oil pump drive by inserting while twisting, then install the retaining bolt and tighten to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm). 25. Install the valve lifters and the anti-rotation brackets. 26. Install the cylinder head. 27. Install the rocker arm cover. 28. Install the radiator. 29. Connect the negative battery cable and properly refill the engine cooling system. Diesel Engine See Figure 4 Fig. Fig. 4: Camshaft timing marks-2.2L diesel engine 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Drain the crankcase. Remove the oil pan and the oil pump. CAUTION The EPA warns that prolonged contact with used engine oil may cause a number of skin disorders, including cancer! You should make every effort to minimize your exposure to used engine oil. Protective gloves should be worn when changing the oil. Wash your hands and any other exposed skin areas as soon as possible after exposure to used engine oil. Soap and water, or waterless hand cleaner should be used. 3. Remove the timing belt cover, the timing belt, the camshaft sprocket. 4. Remove the rocker arm assembly, the pushrods and the valve lifters; be sure to keep the parts in order for reinstallation purposes. 5. Remove the camshaft retainer-to-engine bolts and the retainer. Using a small prybar, pry the oil seal from the cylinder block. 6. Screw a bolt into the camshaft and carefully remove the camshaft from the front of the engine; be careful not to damage the bearing surfaces. 7. Inspect the camshaft for wear, scoring and/or damage; if necessary, replace it. To install: 8. Lubricate the camshaft with engine oil and insert it into the front of the engine. 9. Using a new oil seal, lubricate the seal lips with engine oil and install it into the engine. 10. Install the camshaft retainer and the camshaft sprocket. 11. Install the oil pump and the oil pan. 12. Install the valve lifters, the pushrods and the rocker arm assembly. 13. Install and adjust the timing belt. Install the timing belt cover. 14. Rotate the crankshaft to bring the No. 1 piston to TDC of the compression stroke and adjust the valve lash. 15. To complete the installation, reverse the removal procedures. 16. Refill the cooling system and the crankcase. 17. Connect the negative battery cable. Start the engine, allow it to reach normal operating temperatures. 18. Check and/or adjust the idle speed and timing. 2.3L and 2.6L Engines Removal of the camshaft involves replacement of the timing belt and rocker arm assembly. Review those procedures first before proceeding further. It is not possible to replace the camshaft without completely disassembling the front cover, due to the need to align the timing belt marks on both the camshaft and crankshaft. The timing belt should be replaced any time the camshaft is serviced. 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Rotate the crankshaft to position the No. 4 cylinder on the TDC of its compression stroke. 3. Remove the distributor cap and move it aside. Matchmark the rotor to the distributor housing and the distributor housing to the engine. Remove the distributor. 4. Remove the rocker arm cover, the timing belt cover and the timing belt. Refer to procedures in the section. 5. Remove the rocker arm assembly-to-cylinder head bolts, the rocker arm assembly and the camshaft. If necessary, remove the camshaft sprocketto-camshaft bolt and the sprocket. To install: 6. Lubricate the camshaft with engine oil and position it onto the cylinder head. 7. Install the rocker arm assembly and torque the bolts to bolts to 6 ft. lbs. (8 Nm) and the nuts to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm). 8. Align the timing marks and install the timing belt. 9. Using a new gasket, install the rocker arm cover. 10. Install the timing belt cover. 11. Align the matchmarks and install the distributor to the cylinder head. 12. To complete the installation, reverse the removal procedures. 13. With the timing marks aligned, start the engine, then, check and/or adjust the engine timing. 2.8L and 3.1L Engines See Figure 5 Fig. Fig. 5: Replacing the camshaft-2.8L and 3.1L engines Removal of the camshaft involves replacement of the timing chain assembly and removal of the radiator and usually front grille. Review those procedures first before proceeding further. If replacing the camshaft you should always install all new hydraulic lifters, and a new timing chain and gear set. Use long bolts threaded into the camshaft to help remove the shaft without damaging the camshaft bearings. Remove the camshaft slowly while supporting the weight with the long bolt. 1. Relieve the fuel pressure. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the timing cover and the camshaft sprocket. 3. Remove the upper fan shroud and the radiator. 4. Disconnect the fuel line(s), the accelerator linkage, the vacuum hoses and electrical connectors from the throttle body unit. 5. Remove the rocker arm covers. 6. Loosen the valves, rotate them 90° and remove the pushrods; be sure to keep them aligned so they may be installed in their original positions. 7. Remove the intake manifold. 8. Using a hydraulic lifter removal tool, pull the valve lifters from the engine. 9. Using 3 long bolts, thread them into the camshaft holes. Grasp the bolts and carefully, pull the camshaft from the front of the engine. All the camshaft bearing journals are the same diameter; exercise care in removing the camshaft so the bearings do not become damaged. To install: 10. Lubricate the camshaft with engine oil and install it into the engine. 11. Using a hydraulic lifter installation tool, install the hydraulic lifters into the engine. 12. Using new gaskets and sealant, install the intake manifold. 13. Install the pushrods and the rocker arms. 14. Install the camshaft sprocket, the timing chain and the front cover; be sure the timing marks are aligned. 15. Adjust the valves. 16. Using new gaskets, install the rocker arm covers. 17. To complete the installation, reverse the removal procedures. Refill the cooling system. 18. Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperatures. Check and/or adjust the timing. 3.2L SOHC Engine 1992-95 VEHICLES See Figures 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 and 11 Fig. Fig. 6: Camshaft mounting bolts torque sequence-3.2L SOHC engine Fig. Fig. 7: Camshaft seal repair kit-3.2L SOHC engine Fig. Fig. 8: Camshaft removal sequence-3.2L SOHC engine Fig. Fig. 9: Apply sealant to the cylinder head where the camshaft mounts Fig. Fig. 10: Apply sealant to the camshaft mounting brackets Fig. Fig. 11: Accelerator cable adjustment-3.2L SOHC engine Isuzu has issued a recall notice for 1993-94 Troopers equipped with 3.2L SOHC engines. This is campaign number 94V-094, and involves faulty camshaft end plugs. The plugs may dislodge from the cylinder heads and can cause rapid oil loss. Remember this when ordering parts; a service kit is available for affected vehicles. 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the air cleaner assembly. 3. Remove the upper cooling fan shroud. 4. Remove the cooling fan assembly. 5. Disconnect the accelerator cable from the throttle body and remove it from the bracket. 6. Disconnect the canister vacuum hose from the vacuum pipe. 7. Disconnect the vacuum booster hose from the common chamber. 8. Disconnect the MAP sensor; Canister vacuum switching valve (VSV); Exhaust gas recirculation (VSV); Intake air temperature sensor and ground connectors. 9. Remove the spark plug wires from the cylinder head cover. 10. Remove the ignition control module assembly. 11. Remove the four bolts and the throttle body from the common chamber. 12. Disconnect the vacuum hoses from the throttle body. 13. Disconnect the positive crankcase ventilation hose from the common chamber. 14. Disconnect the fuel pressure control valve vacuum hose from the common chamber. 15. Disconnect the evaporative emission canister purge hose from the common chamber. 16. Remove the EGR valve assembly. 17. Remove the common chamber from the intake manifold. 18. Disconnect the fuel feed and return hoses from the fuel rail assembly. 19. Remove the accessory drive belts. 20. Remove the power steering pump. 21. Remove the fan pulley assembly. 22. Remove the crankshaft pulley and damper. 23. Remove the timing belt cover. 24. Remove the timing belt auto tensioner (pusher). The pusher prevents air from entering the oil chamber. Its rod must always be facing upward. 25. Align the timing marks and remove the timing belt. After the timing marks are aligned, the engine must not be disturbed. 26. Remove the cylinder head cover(s). 27. Remove the camshaft pulley. 28. Remove the camshaft front plate. 29. Remove the camshaft mounting bracket bolts and the camshaft. To install: 30. Install new camshaft seals and retaining plates onto the cylinder. Tighten the right camshaft seal retaining plate 6mm bolts to 65 inch lbs. (7 Nm). Tighten the left camshaft seal retaining plate 8mm bolts to 191 inch lbs. (21.5 Nm). 31. Apply sealant to the mounting surfaces on the cylinder head where the front and rear camshaft mounting brackets attach to the cylinder head. 32. Install the camshaft and mounting brackets. Torque the bolts in sequence to 69 inch lbs. (8 Nm) for the M6 bolts and 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm) for the M8 bolts. 33. Install the front plate. Torque the bolts to 12 ft. lbs. (17 Nm). 34. Install the camshaft pulley. Torque the mounting bolts to 41 ft. lbs. (55 Nm). 35. Apply sealant to both sides of the front and rear camshaft mounting brackets and install the cylinder head cover(s). Torque the bolts to 69 inch lbs. (8 Nm). Do not overtighten the cylinder head covers: they crack very easily. 36. Install the timing belt. 37. Install the timing belt auto tensioner. Torque the mounting bolts to 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm). 38. Rotate the crankshaft by hand to verify that the timing belt is aligned properly and there is no piston-to-valve interference. 39. Install the timing belt cover. 40. Install the oil cooler hoses and bracket. 41. Install the crankshaft pulley assembly. Torque the center bolt to 123 ft. lbs. (167 Nm). 42. Install the fan pulley assembly. Torque the mounting bolts to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm). 43. Install the power steering pump. 44. Install the accessory drive belts. 45. Connect the fuel hoses to the fuel rail assembly. 46. Install the common chamber. Torque the bolts and nuts to 17 ft. lbs. (24 Nm) in a crisscross pattern. 47. Install the EGR valve assembly. Torque the mounting bolts on the valve side to 69 inch lbs. (8 Nm) and the bolts on the exhaust side to 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm). 48. Connect the evaporative emission canister purge hose. 49. Connect the fuel pressure control valve vacuum hose. 50. Connect the positive crankcase ventilation hose. 51. Install the throttle body assembly. Torque the mounting bolts to 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm). 52. Connect the vacuum hoses to the throttle body. 53. Install the ignition control module and the spark plug wires. 54. Connect the MAP sensor; Canister vacuum switching valve (VSV); Exhaust gas recirculation (VSV); Intake air temperature sensor and ground connectors. 55. Connect the vacuum booster hose. 56. Connect the air vacuum hose. 57. Connect the accelerator cable. Adjust the accelerator cable by pulling the cable housing while closing the throttle valve and tightening the adjusting nut and screw cap by hand temporarily. Now loosen the adjusting nut by three turns and then tightening the screw cap. Make sure the throttle valve reaches the screw stop when the throttle is closed. 58. Install the cooling fan assembly and the upper fan shroud. 59. Install the air cleaner assembly. 60. Connect the negative battery cable. 1996 VEHICLES See Figures 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 and 11 CAUTION Fuel injection systems remain under pressure even after the engine has been turned off. The fuel system pressure must be relieved before disconnecting any fuel lines. Failure to do so may result in fire and personal injury. 1. Relieve the fuel system pressure: A. Remove the fuel filler cap. B. Remove the fuel pump relay from the underhood relay box. C. Start the engine and let it run until it stalls. Then, crank the engine for an additional 30 seconds. D. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable and reinstall the fuel pump relay. 3. Drain the coolant into a sealable container. 4. Support the hood as far open as possible. 5. Remove the air intake duct and the air cleaner box. 6. Disconnect and remove the upper and lower radiator hoses. Catch any coolant that runs out. 7. Loosen and remove the power steering pump, A/C compressor, and alternator drive belts. 8. Remove the cooling fan and its pulley assembly. 9. Unbolt the power steering pump mounting bracket. Move the pump and bracket out of the way without disconnecting the hydraulic lines. 10. Disconnect the throttle cable from the throttle body linkage. 11. Label and disconnect the following vacuum hoses from the intake manifold chamber: A. PCV hose B. EVAP canister vacuum hose C. Brake booster hose 12. Label and disconnect the following sensor connectors from the rear of the intake manifold chamber: A. Ignition control module connectors B. Linear EGR valve C. MAP sensor D. EVAP purge valve E. Throttle position sensor F. Idle air control valve G. Intake air temperature sensor 13. Disconnect the EGR valve supply tube and bracket. 14. First, remove the throttle body, and then remove the intake manifold chamber. 15. Carefully clean any dirt from the fuel rail and fuel fittings. 16. Disconnect the fuel feed and return lines from the front of the fuel rail. Clean up any spilled fuel. 17. Remove the intake manifold gaskets. Be careful not to drop any pieces of the gaskets into the engine. Don't scratch or gouge the machined aluminum mating surfaces of the intake manifold and engine block. 18. Cover the intake openings with a sheet of plastic or clean shop towels to keep out dirt and foreign objects. 19. Label the ignition coil assemblies and disconnect them from the wiring harness. Remove the coil assemblies so they won't be damaged. 20. Unbolt the oil cooler line brackets from the timing belt covers. 21. Remove the upper timing belt covers. 22. Rotate the crankshaft to align the camshaft timing marks with the pointer dots on the back covers. When the timing marks are aligned, the No. 2 piston is at TDC/compression. 23. Remove the crankshaft pulley. Remove the lower timing belt cover. 24. Remove the pusher assembly (tensioner) from below the timing belt tensioner pulley. The pusher rod must always be facing upward to prevent oil leakage. Push the pusher rod in, and insert a wire pin into the hole to keep the pusher rod retracted. 25. Remove the timing belt. WARNING If the timing belt is worn, damaged, or shows signs of oil or coolant contamination, it must be replaced. 26. Loosen the valve cover bolts in a crisscross sequence. Remove the valve covers. 27. Remove the camshaft sprockets and back covers. 28. Loosen the camshaft holder bolts in a crisscross sequence to prevent warping. 29. Remove the camshaft and camshaft holders from the cylinder head. 30. Inspect the camshaft lobes and journals for signs of wear or damage. To install: 31. Make sure all mating surfaces are clean and free of oil, coolant, or gasket residue. 32. Lubricate the camshaft lobes and journals with clean engine oil. 33. Apply a bead of sealant to the front and rear camshaft holder mating surfaces on the cylinder head. 34. Install the camshaft and holder assembly onto the cylinder head before the sealant cures. Install the camshaft holder bolts, but don't tighten them yet. 35. Use a crisscross sequence to tighten the camshaft holder bolts. Tighten the 8mm bolts to 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm). Tighten the 6mm bolts to 6 ft. lbs. (8 Nm). 36. Use a seal driver to install a new camshaft seal. 37. Install the camshaft sprocket back covers and tighten their bolts to 12 ft. lbs. (17 Nm). 38. Install the camshaft sprockets so that the timing marks are aligned. Tighten the bolts to 46 ft. lbs. (64 Nm). 39. Apply a 2-3mm bead of sealant to the joint were the camshaft holders meet the cylinder head. Install the valve cover with a new gasket before the sealant cures. 40. Tighten the valve cover bolts to 6 ft. lbs. (8 Nm) in crisscross pattern. 41. Verify that the camshaft and crankshaft timing marks are properly aligned. 42. Install and tension the timing belt. Tighten the pusher bolts to 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm). 43. Install the lower timing belt covers and tighten the bolts to 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm). Install the crankshaft pulley. Tighten the pulley bolt to 123 ft. lbs. (167 Nm). 44. Install the upper timing belt covers and tighten the bolts to 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm). 45. Fit the oil cooler line brackets onto the timing cover and tighten the bolts to 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm). 46. Reconnect the fuel feed and return lines. 47. Install and reconnect the ignition coil assemblies. 48. Install the intake manifold chamber and throttle body with new gaskets. Tighten the nuts and bolts to 17 ft. lbs. (24 Nm). 49. Reconnect the throttle cable to the throttle body linkage. 50. Reconnect the EGR valve supply tube and bracket. 51. Reconnect the following vacuum to the intake manifold chamber: A. PCV hose B. EVAP canister vacuum hose C. Brake booster hose 52. Reconnect the following sensor connectors to the rear of the intake manifold chamber: A. Ignition control module connectors B. Linear EGR valve C. MAP sensor D. EVAP purge valve E. Throttle position sensor F. Idle air control valve G. Intake air temperature sensor 53. Install the power steering pump and mounting bracket. 54. Install the cooling fan and its pulley assembly. 55. Install and tension the alternator, A/C compressor, and power steering pump drive belts. 56. Install and reconnect the upper and lower radiator hoses. 57. Install the air cleaner box and air intake duct. 58. Verify that all fuel lines, vacuum and coolant hoses, and wiring harness have been reconnected. 59. Refill the engine with fresh coolant. 60. Crank the engine until it starts. A longer-than-normal starting time may be necessary due to air in the fuel lines. Check all fuel line connections for leaks. 61. Bleed any air from the cooling system. 62. Bleed the power steering system if necessary. 63. Check the throttle cable operation and adjustment. 64. Check the engine oil level and add if necessary. 3.2L DOHC Engine See Figures 12, 13, 14, 15 and 16 Fig. Fig. 12: Install a retainer on the chain tensioner and remove it after installation-3.2L (DOHC) engine Fig. Fig. 13: Apply sealant to the bracket mounting surface on the cylinder head-3.2L (DOHC) engine Fig. Fig. 14: Camshaft and chain timing marks-3.2L (DOHC) engine Fig. Fig. 15: Chain tensioner installed position-3.2L (DOHC) engine Fig. Fig. 16: Apply sealant to the camshaft mounting brackets-3.2L (DOHC) engine Isuzu has issued a recall notice for 1993-94 Troopers equipped with 3.2L DOHC engines. This is campaign number 94V-094, and involves faulty camshaft end plugs. The plugs may dislodge from the cylinder heads and can cause rapid oil loss. Remember this when ordering parts: a service kit is available for affected vehicles. 1. Relieve the fuel pressure: A. Remove the fuel filler cap. B. Remove the fuel pump relay from the underhood relay box. C. Start the engine and let it run until it stalls. Then, crank the engine for an additional 30 seconds. D. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Install the fuel pump relay. 3. Remove the air cleaner assembly. 4. Remove the upper cooling fan shroud. 5. Remove the cooling fan assembly. 6. Disconnect the accelerator cable from the throttle body and remove it from the bracket. 7. Disconnect the canister vacuum hose from the vacuum pipe. 8. Disconnect the vacuum booster hose from the common chamber. 9. Disconnect the following connectors: A. MAP sensor B. Canister vacuum switching valve (VSV) C. Exhaust gas recirculation (VSV) D. Intake air temperature sensor E. Ground cables 10. Disconnect and label the spark plug wires. 11. Remove the ignition control module assembly with the spark plug wire attached. 12. Remove the four bolts to separate the throttle body from the common chamber. 13. Disconnect the vacuum hoses from the throttle body. 14. Disconnect the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) hose from the common chamber. 15. Disconnect the fuel pressure control valve vacuum hose from the common chamber. 16. Disconnect the evaporative emission canister purge hose from the common chamber. 17. Remove the EGR valve assembly. 18. Remove the common chamber air duct. 19. Remove the common chamber from the intake manifold. 20. Disconnect the fuel feed and return hoses from the fuel rail assembly. 21. Remove the accessory drive belts. 22. Remove the power steering pump. 23. Remove the fan pulley assembly. 24. Remove the crankshaft pulley and damper. 25. Remove the oil cooler hoses and bracket. 26. Remove the timing belt cover. 27. Align the timing marks 28. Remove the timing belt auto tensioner (pusher). The pusher prevents air from entering the oil chamber. Its rod must always be facing upward. 29. Remove the timing belt. 30. Remove the cylinder head covers. 31. Remove the camshaft pulley. 32. Remove the camshaft front plate. 33. Remove the camshaft mounting bracket bolts. 34. Remove the camshaft chain tensioner bolts. 35. Remove the camshafts with the timing chain and tensioner attached. To install: Install a retainer on the chain tensioner to prevent the plunger from moving. Remove the retainer after installation. 36. Apply sealant to the cylinder head mounting surface of the front and rear camshaft mounting brackets. 37. Apply clean engine oil to the camshaft journals, lobes, and sprockets. 38. Install the camshaft assembly with the chain and tensioner. Take care not to install the wrong tensioner, the left and right tensioners are different and they are marked accordingly. Make sure the timing marks on the camshaft chain sprockets are aligned with the timing marks on the chain links. Torque the camshaft holder mounting bolts to 87 inch lbs. (10 Nm). 39. Install the chain tensioner. Torque the bolts to 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm). 40. Install new camshaft seals and retaining plates onto the cylinder. Tighten the rear camshaft seal retaining plate 6mm bolts to 70 inch lbs. (8 Nm). Tighten the front camshaft seal retaining bolts to 65 inch lbs. (7 Nm). 41. Install the camshaft pulley. Hold the camshaft with an open ended wrench to prevent it from turning and torque the pulley bolts to 41 ft. lbs. (55 Nm) for 1992-94 vehicles, or 46 ft. lbs. (63 Nm) for 1995 vehicles. 42. Apply sealant to both sides of the front and rear camshaft mounting brackets and install the cylinder head cover(s). Torque the bolts to 69 inch lbs. (8 Nm). Don't overtorque the bolts, as the head covers may crack. 43. Install the timing belt. 44. Install the timing belt auto tensioner. Torque the mounting bolts to 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm). 45. Install the timing belt cover. 46. Install the oil cooler hoses and bracket. 47. Install the crankshaft pulley assembly. Torque the center bolt to 123 ft. lbs. (167 Nm). 48. Install the fan pulley assembly. Torque the mounting bolts to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm). 49. Install the power steering pump. 50. Install the accessory drive belts. 51. Connect the fuel hoses to the fuel rail assembly. 52. Install the common chamber. Torque the bolts and nuts to 17 ft. lbs. (24 Nm). 53. Install the common chamber air duct. Torque the nuts and bolts to 17 ft. lbs. (24 Nm). 54. Connect the ground cable. 55. Install the EGR valve assembly. Torque the mounting bolts on the valve side to 69 inch lbs. (8 Nm) and the bolts on the exhaust side to 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm). 56. Connect the evaporative emission canister purge hose. 57. Connect the fuel pressure control valve vacuum hose. 58. Reconnect the fuel lines using new washers. 59. Connect the positive crankcase ventilation hose. 60. Install the throttle body assembly. Torque the mounting bolts to 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm). 61. Connect the vacuum hoses to the throttle body. 62. Install the ignition control module and the spark plug wires. 63. Connect the MAP sensor; Canister Vacuum Switching Valve (VSV); Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR), the Intake air temperature sensor connectors; and ground cables. 64. Connect the vacuum booster hose. 65. Connect the air vacuum hose. 66. Connect the accelerator cable. Adjust the accelerator cable by pulling the cable housing while closing the throttle valve and tightening the adjusting nut and screw cap by hand temporarily. Now loosen the adjusting nut by three turns and then tightening the screw cap. Make sure the throttle valve reaches the screw stop when the throttle is closed. 67. Install the cooling fan assembly and the upper fan shroud. 68. Install the air cleaner assembly. 69. Connect the negative battery cable. 70. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks. INSPECTION See Figures 17, 18 and 19 Fig. Fig. 17: Measuring camshaft lobe lift Fig. Fig. 18: Measuring camshaft run-out Fig. Fig. 19: Measuring camshaft straightness Using solvent, degrease the camshaft and clean out all of the oil holes. Visually inspect the cam lobes and bearing journals for excessive wear. If a lobe is questionable, check all of the lobes as indicated. If a journal or lobe is worn, the camshaft MUST BE or replaced. If a journal is worn, there is a good chance that the bearings or journals are worn and need replacement. If the lobes and journals appear intact, place the front and rear journals in V-blocks and rest a dial indicator on the center journal. Rotate the camshaft to check the straightness. If deviation exceeds 0.001 in. (0.0254mm), replace the camshaft. Check the camshaft lobes with a micrometer, by measuring the lobes from the nose to the base and again at 90° (see illustration). The lobe lift is determined by subtracting the second measurement from the first. If all of the exhaust and intake lobes are not identical, the camshaft must be reground or replace. Back to Top ISUZU Amigo/Pick-ups/Rodeo/Trooper 1981-1996 Camshaft Bearings REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print See Figures 1, 2 and 3 Fig. Fig. 1: Removal and installation of camshaft bearings-2.8L and 3.1L engines Fig. Fig. 2: Aligning the camshaft bearing oil holes with a piece of wire bent at a 90 degree angle. The holes MUST be in alignment2.8L and 3.1L engine Fig. Fig. 3: Aligning the camshaft bearing oil holes. The holes MUST be in alignment-diesel engine Overhead valve engines (2.8L, 3.1L and 2.2L diesel) are equipped with removable camshaft bearings. Overhead camshaft engines, however, do not have removable camshaft bearings; on these engines, the journal is cast into the cylinder head and also acts as the bearing. The camshaft, lifters, flywheel and the expansion plug (at the rear of the camshaft) must be removed. Drive the expansion plug out from the inside of the engine block. On overhead camshaft engines, have a machine shop check the heads if the bearing surface is damaged. 2.8L, 3.1L and 2.2L Diesel Engines It is recommended that the engine be removed from the vehicle before attempting this procedure. A machine shop is better equipped to replace camshaft bearings and check the bearing alignment. To remove the camshaft bearings, the camshaft, lifters, flywheel, rear camshaft expansion plug, and crankshaft must be removed. Camshaft bearings can be replaced with engine completely or partially disassembled. To replace bearings without complete disassembly, remove the camshaft and crankshaft, leaving the cylinder heads attached and the pistons in place. Before removing the crankshaft, install rubber fuel hoses on the threads of the connecting rod bolts to prevent damage to the crankshaft. Fasten the connecting rods against the sides of the engine so they will not be in the way while replacing the camshaft bearings. Use rubber bands and the oil pan bolts to hold the connecting rods away from the crankshaft during removal. If excessive wear is indicated, or if the engine is being completely rebuilt, camshaft bearings should be replaced as follows: Drive the camshaft rear plug from the block. Assemble the removal puller with its shoulder on the bearing to be removed. Gradually tighten the puller nut until bearing is removed. Remove remaining bearings, leaving the front and rear for last. To remove front and rear bearings, reverse position of the tool, so as to pull the bearings in toward the center of the block. Leave the tool in this position, pilot the new front and rear bearings on the installer, and pull them into position: Return the tool to its original position and pull remaining bearings into position. Ensure that the oil holes align when installing the bearings. Replace camshaft rear plug, and stake it into position to aid retention. Back to Top ISUZU Amigo/Pick-ups/Rodeo/Trooper 1981-1996 Combination Manifold REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print Diesel Engine See Figure 1 Fig. Fig. 1: Combination manifold-diesel engine Although the intake and exhaust manifolds are individual parts, they must be remove at the same time so the 1-piece gasket may be replaced. 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the air cleaner and air duct, if necessary. 3. Disconnect the accelerator cable from the throttle body. 4. Label and disconnect the necessary vacuum hoses and electrical connectors. 5. If not equipped with a turbocharger, disconnect the exhaust manifold from the exhaust pipe. 6. If equipped with a turbocharger, perform the following procedures: A. Disconnect the intake and exhaust hoses from the turbocharger. B. Disconnect the oil lines from the turbocharger. C. Remove the turbocharger-to-exhaust manifold nuts, the turbocharger assembly-to-exhaust pipe nuts and the turbocharger assembly. 7. Remove the intake manifold-to-cylinder head bolts and the intake manifold. 8. Remove the exhaust manifold-to-cylinder head bolts, the exhaust manifold and discard the gasket. 9. Clean the gasket mounting surfaces. To install: 10. Using a new gasket, install it onto the cylinder head with the center mark facing outward and upward. 11. Install the exhaust and intake manifolds onto the cylinder head and torque the nuts/bolts to 10-17 ft. lbs. (14-25 Nm) for a non-turbocharged engine or 13-17 ft. lbs. (17-25 Nm) for a turbocharged engine. 12. If not equipped with a turbocharger, install the exhaust manifold to the exhaust pipe. 13. If equipped with a turbocharger, perform the following procedures: A. Refill the turbocharger with clean engine oil. B. Install the turbocharger-to-exhaust manifold nuts to 16-23 ft. lbs. (24-32 Nm) and the turbocharger assembly-to-exhaust pipe nuts to 16-23 ft. lbs. (24-32 Nm). C. Connect the oil feed lines to the turbocharger. Back to Top ISUZU Amigo/Pick-ups/Rodeo/Trooper 1981-1996 Crankshaft Damper REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print Except Diesel Engine See Figures 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 Fig. Fig. 1: Loosen the pulley and/or damper retaining bolts-in this case all must be removed before the pulley can be separated Fig. Fig. 2: The damper retaining bolt is threaded into the center of the hub Fig. Fig. 3: With the bolts removed, separate the pulley from the hub Fig. Fig. 4: Use a threaded damper puller to draw the hub from the end of the crankshaft Fig. Fig. 5: Once the hub is loosened carefully withdraw the hub from the end of the crankshaft Most of the engines covered in this guide are equipped with a crankshaft hub and pulley assembly. The pulley is usually mounted to the hub using 3 or so bolts around the inner circle of the pulley. The center mounting bolt is used to retain the hub to the crankshaft, but may also be used to retain the pulley. If the center mounting bolt also retains the pulley, a washer can normally be seen between the bolt head and the inner lip of the pulley. 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Loosen and remove the accessory drive belts or serpentine drive belt from the crankshaft damper. 3. If necessary for access on certain models, remove the fan assembly. 4. Remove the pulley mounting bolts from the pulley and damper assembly. If the center mounting bolt is not used to retain the pulley, it may be separated from the hub at this time and removed from the engine. 5. Spray the damper bolt with penetrating oil and allow it to soak in for at least a few minutes. Loosen and remove the center crankshaft damper bolt. If the pulley was not removed earlier, it should be free now. If damper bolt removal is difficult, various methods may be used to hold the crankshaft while loosening or tightening the bolt. One method involves installing a flywheel holding fixture to prevent the crankshaft from turning. A holding tool may be available for some dampers which threads into the pulley bolt holes. But most importantly of all, allow the penetrating oil to do the work when loosening an old damper bolt and reapply oil, as necessary. If you have the time, you might even want the oil to sit overnight. 6. Remove the damper from the end of the crankshaft using a suitable threaded damper puller, NOT a jawed-type puller which would most likely destroy dampers with bonded hubs. WARNING The use of any other type of puller, such as a universal claw type which pulls on the outside of the hub, can destroy the balancer on some of these engines. Many of the vehicles covered in this guide use a balancer, the outside ring of which is bonded in rubber to the hub. Pulling on the outside will break the bond. To install: 7. If removal of the damper was difficult, check the damper inner diameter and the crankshaft outer diameter for corrosion. A small amount of corrosion may be removed using steel wool, then the surface may be lubricated lightly using clean engine oil. 8. Coat the front cover seal contact edge of the damper lightly with clean engine oil, then apply a small amount of RTV sealant to the keyway in the damper hub. Install the damper on the end of the crankshaft (along with the pulley if the share the center retaining bolt), but DO NOT hammer it into position, instead use a damper installation tool to slowly draw the hub into position. If the damper can be positioned far enough over the end of the crankshaft, the damper bolt may be used to draw it into position, but be careful that sufficient threads are in contact to prevent stripping the bolt or crankshaft. 9. Once the damper is fully seated, install and tighten the retaining bolt to specification. 10. If not done earlier, install the pulley and secure using the outer retaining bolts. 11. If removed for access, install the fan assembly. 12. Install the drive belt(s) to the crankshaft pulley. 13. Connect the negative battery cable. Diesel Engine The 2.2L diesel engine utilizes an exposed crankshaft pulley and a hidden crankshaft timing pulley/damper. The following procedure may be used to remove the exposed crankshaft pulley. 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Loosen and remove the accessory drive belts. 3. Turn the crankshaft pulley to align the timing mark with the engine pointer. This should be done if any further procedures are being performed which might disturb valve timing. 4. Remove the retaining bolts, then remove the crankshaft pulley. To install: 5. Align and install the crankshaft pulley. 6. Install the retaining bolts, then tighten to 10-17 ft. lbs. (14-23 Nm). 7. Install the accessory drive belts, then properly adjust their tension. 8. Connect the negative battery cable. Back to Top ISUZU Amigo/Pick-ups/Rodeo/Trooper 1981-1996 Crankshaft and Main Bearings The most critical maintenance operation is the replacement of the crankshaft main bearings. These bearings are of the precision insert design and do not require adjustment through shims. They are offered in undersizes of 0.001 in., 0.002 in., 0.009 in., 0.010 in., 0.020 in., and 0.030 in., depending on the engine. Print Despite the advent of these inserts and accompanying precision machine work, it does happen that sizing mistakes are made and no crankshaft should be installed in a block without checking clearances. One of the simplest means of doing so is to use Plastigage®. This is a wax-like plastic material that is formed into precision threads. It will compress evenly between two surfaces, without damage, and when measured, will indicate the actual clearance. It is easiest to check bearing clearance with the engine removed from the vehicle and the block inverted. This ensures that the crank is resting against the upper bearing shells. If Plastigage® is to be used on an engine still in the vehicle, it will be necessary to support the crankshaft at both ends so that clearance between the crankshaft and the upper bearing shells is eliminated. REMOVAL & INSTALLATION See Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4 Fig. Fig. 1: Support the connecting rods with rubber bands and install rubber tubing rod bolt caps to protect the crankshaft during removal and installation Fig. Fig. 2: Aligning the thrust bearing and tighten the main caps Fig. Fig. 3: Check crankshaft end-play and clearance after installation Fig. Fig. 4: Measuring the connecting rod side clearance 1. Drain the crankcase oil and remove the engine from the truck. 2. Remove the flywheel and mount the engine on a workstand in a suitable working area. Invert the engine, so the oil pan is facing up. If the cylinder heads are not being removed, the spark plugs should be removed in order to release engine compression and allow for easier rotation of the crankshaft when necessary. 3. Remove the engine front (timing) cover. 4. Align the timing marks, then remove the timing chain and gears. After removing the timing gear or sprocket from the crankshaft, be sure to remove the Woodruff key from the crankshaft. 5. Remove the oil pan. 6. If necessary, remove the oil pump assembly. 7. Inspect the connecting rods and bearing caps for identification marks (numbers). If there are none, stamp the cylinder number on the machined surfaces of the bolt bosses of the connecting rods and caps for identification when reinstalling. If the pistons are to be removed eventually from the connecting rod, mark the cylinder number on the pistons with silver paint or felt-tip pen for proper cylinder identification and cap-to-rod location. 8. Remove the connecting rod nuts and caps, then store them in the order of removal. Place short pieces of rubber hose on the connecting rod studs to prevent damaging the crankshaft bearing surfaces. 9. Check the main bearing caps for identification marks (if not identified, mark them). Remove the main bearing caps and store them in order, for reassembly purposes; the caps must be reinstalled in their original position. 10. If equipped, remove the 1-piece rear main seal retainer from the engine. 11. Install rubber bands between a bolt on each connecting rod and oil pan bolts that have been reinstalled in the block (see illustration). This will keep the rods from banging on the block when the crank is removed. 12. Carefully lift the crankshaft out of the block. The rods will pivot to the center of the engine when the crank is removed. To install: 13. Clean and inspect all parts for damage. Repair or replace, as necessary. 14. Install new bearing shell inserts and check the bearing clearances. If necessary, deliver the crankshaft to an automotive machine shop, have the crankshaft journals ground and new bearing shells matched. 15. Lubricate all of the parts and oil seals with clean engine oil. 16. Using a feeler gauge and a medium prybar, move the crankshaft forward-and-rearward. Check the crankshaft end-play by inserting a feeler gauge between the crankshaft and the thrust bearing shell. An alternate method is to use a dial indicator at the crankshaft snout. Install the indicator, move the crankshaft rearward, zero the indicator and then move the crankshaft forward. the dial indicator will read the end-play. Thrust bearing location varies with the engine. 17. Tighten main bearing caps (in three steps) to specification. Use Plastigage® or equivalent to check for proper bearing clearance. 18. Remove the rubber hoses from the studs. Install the bearing cap (with bearing shell) onto the connecting rod and the cap nuts. Torque the connecting rod cap nuts (in stages) to specification. Use Plastigage® or equivalent to check for proper bearing clearance. When more than one rod and piston assembly is being installed, the connecting rod cap attaching nuts should only be tightened enough to keep each rod in position until all have been installed. This will ease the installation of the remaining piston assemblies. 19. Check connecting rod side clearance by inserting a feeler gauge between the side of the rod and the crankshaft. If not within specification, repair as necessary. 20. If necessary, install the pump assembly. 21. Install the oil pan. 22. Make sure the Woodruff key is installed in the end of the crankshaft, then install the timing chain and gears. 23. Install the engine front (timing) cover. 24. Remove the engine from the workstand, then install the flywheel. 25. Refill the crankcase and install the engine to the truck. CLEANING AND INSPECTION See Figures 5, 6, 7, 8 and 9 Fig. Fig. 5: Check the main bearing journals using a micrometer Fig. Fig. 6: Check the crankshaft for excessive run-out Fig. Fig. 7: Check the main bearing bore diameter with bearings installed Fig. Fig. 8: Mounting a dial gauge to read crankshaft run-out Fig. Fig. 9: Turn the crankshaft slowly by hand while checking the gauge Crankshaft 1. Clean the crankshaft with solvent and a brush. Clean the oil passages with a suitable brush, then blow them out with compressed air. 2. Inspect the crankshaft for obvious damage or wear. Check the main and connecting rod journals for cracks, scratches, grooves or scores. Inspect the crankshaft oil seal surface for nicks, sharp edges or burrs that could damage the oil seal or cause premature seal wear. 3. If the crankshaft passes a visual inspection, check journal run-out using a dial indicator. Support the crankshaft in V-blocks and check the run-out. Compare to specifications. 4. Measure the main and connecting rod journals for wear, out-of-roundness or taper, using a micrometer. Measure in at least 4 places around each journal and compare your findings with the journal diameter specifications. 5. If the crankshaft fails any inspection for wear or damage, it must be reground or replaced. Main Bearings Like connecting rod big-end bearings, the crankshaft main bearings are shell-type inserts that do not utilize shims and cannot be adjusted. The bearings are available in various standard and undersizes; if main bearing clearance is found to be excessive, a new bearing (both upper and lower halves) is required. Factory-undersized crankshafts are marked, sometimes with a 9'' and/or a large spot of light green paint; the bearing caps also will have the paint on each side of the undersized journal. Generally, the lower half of the bearing shell (except No. 1 bearing) shows greater wear and fatigue. If the lower half only shows the effects of normal wear (no heavy scoring or discoloration), it can usually be assumed that the upper half is also in good shape; conversely, if the lower half is heavily worn or damaged, both halves should be replaced. NEVER REPLACE ONE BEARING HALF WITHOUT REPLACING THE OTHER! BEARING REPLACEMENT See Figure 10 Fig. Fig. 10: Carefully pry the shaft back and forth while reading the gauge to check crankshaft end-play The following procedure requires the use of Plastigage® or a micrometer set consisting of inside and outside micrometers, and a dial indicator. 1. Inspect the bearings for scoring, chipping or other wear. 2. Inspect the crankshaft journals as detailed in the Cleaning and Inspection procedure. 3. If the crankshaft journals appear usable, clean them and the bearing shells until they are completely free of oil. Blow any oil from the oil hole in the crankshaft. 4. To check the crankshaft/rod bearing clearances using a micrometer, perform the following procedures: A. Set the crankshaft on V-blocks. Using a dial indicator set on the center bearing journal, check the crankshaft run-out. Repair or replace the crankshaft if out of specification. B. Using an outside micrometer, measure the crankshaft bearing journals for diameter and out-of-round conditions; if necessary, regrind the bearing journals. C. Install the bearings and caps and torque the nuts/bolts to specifications. Using an inside micrometer, check the bearing bores in the engine block. If out of specification, regrind the bearing bores to the next largest oversize. D. The difference between the two readings is the bearing clearance. If out of specification, inspect for the cause and repair as necessary. 5. To inspect the main bearing surfaces, using the Plastigage® method, perform the following procedures: Plastigage® is soluble in oil. The journal surfaces and bearing shells must be completely free of oil to get an accurate reading with Plastigage®. 1. Place a strip of Plastigage® lengthwise along the bottom center of the lower bearing shell, then install the cap with the shell and torque the connecting rod nuts or main cap bolts to specification. When the Plastigage® material is installed on the bearing surfaces, DO NOT rotate the crankshaft. 2. Remove the bearing cap with the shell. The flattened Plastigage® will either be sticking to the bearing shell or the crankshaft journal. 3. Using the printed scale on the Plastigage® package, measure the flattened Plastigage® at its widest point. The number on the scale that most closely corresponds to the width of the Plastigage® indicates the bearing clearance in thousandths of an inch or hundredths of a millimeter. 4. Compare your findings with the bearing clearance specification. If the bearing clearance is excessive, the bearing must be replaced or the crankshaft must be ground and the bearing replaced. Bearing shell sets over standard size are available to correct excessive bearing clearance. 5. After clearance measuring is completed, be sure to remove the Plastigage® from the crankshaft and/or bearing shell. 6. For final bearing shell installation, make sure the connecting rod and rod cap and/or cylinder block and main cap bearing saddles are clean and free of nicks or burrs. Install the bearing shells in the bearing saddles, making sure the bearing shell tangs are seated in the notches. Be careful when handling any plain bearings. Your hands and the working area should be clean. Dirt is easily embedded in the bearing surface and the bearings are easily scratched or damaged. Back to Top ISUZU Amigo/Pick-ups/Rodeo/Trooper 1981-1996 Cylinder Head REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print 1.8L and 2.0L Engines See Figures 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 Fig. Fig. 1: Cylinder head bolt torque sequence-1.8L and 2.0L engines Fig. Fig. 2: Locking the timing chain adjuster-1.8L engine shown Fig. Fig. 3: Keep the timing sprocket attached to the chain while aligning or removing. A piece of mechanics wire may be helpful Fig. Fig. 4: Locking the timing chain adjuster-2.0L engine shown Fig. Fig. 5: Push in on the automatic adjuster shoe (1) and lock it in the retracted position by releasing lever (2)-2.0L engine 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable and drain the engine coolant. Remove the rocker cover. CAUTION When draining the coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted by ethylene glycol antifreeze, and are quite likely to drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantity. Always drain the coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or several years old. 2. Remove the EGR pipe clamp bolt at the rear of the cylinder head. 3. Raise and support the vehicle safely. Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the exhaust manifold. 4. Lower the vehicle. 5. Disconnect the heater hoses at the intake manifold and at the rear of the cylinder head. Remove the air conditioning compressor and/or power steering pump with hoses attached and support them aside. 6. Disconnect the accelerator linkage and fuel line at the carburetor. Disconnect and label the electrical connections, spark plug wires and vacuum lines at the cylinder head. 7. Rotate the engine until the No. 4 cylinder is in the firing position. Remove the distributor cap and mark the rotor to housing relationship. Remove distributor and the fuel pump. 8. Lock the timing chain adjuster by depressing and turning the automatic adjuster side pin 90° clockwise. 9. Remove the timing sprocket-to-camshaft bolt and remove the sprocket from the camshaft. Keep the sprocket on the chain damper and chain. 10. Disconnect the AIR hose and the check valve at the exhaust manifold. 11. Remove the cylinder head to timing cover bolts. 12. Starting with the outer bolts and working inward, remove the cylinder head bolts. 13. Remove the cylinder head, intake and exhaust manifold as a unit. Remove all accessories if the manifold has to be serviced. To install: 14. Clean the gasket mating surfaces with scraper and solvent. Check the cylinder head and block for warpage using a straightedge and feeler gauge. Refer to Cylinder Head Inspection procedure in this section. 15. Use a new gasket and install the cylinder head on the engine. 16. Torque the bolts to specifications. Refer to the Torque Specifications chart earlier in this section. 17. Install the timing chain by performing the following procedures: A. Install the timing sprocket and pinion gear with the groove side toward the front cover. Align the key grooves with the key on the crankshaft, then drive into position. B. Confirm that the No. 1 piston is at TDC. If not, turn the crankshaft so the key is turned toward the cylinder head side (No. 1 and No. 4 pistons at top dead center). C. Install the timing chain by aligning the mark plate on the chain with the mark on the crankshaft timing sprocket. The side of the chain with the mark plate is on the front side and the side of the chain with the most links between the mark plates is on the chain guide side. D. Install the camshaft timing sprocket so the mark side of the sprocket faces forward and so the triangular mark aligns with the chain mark plate. Keep the timing chain engaged with the camshaft timing sprocket until the sprocket is installed on the camshaft. 18. Install the front cover assembly, using a new gasket and sealer. 19. Connect the AIR hose and the check valve at the exhaust manifold. 20. Connect the accelerator linkage and fuel line to the carburetor. Connect the electrical connections, the spark plug wires and the vacuum lines. 21. Connect the heater hoses to the intake manifold and the rear of the cylinder head. Install the air conditioner compressor and/or power steering pump. 22. Connect the exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold. 23. Install the EGR pipe clamp bolt to the rear of the cylinder head. 24. Install the rocker arm cover and connect the negative battery cable. 25. Refill the engine with coolant. Start the engine and check for leaks. Diesel Engine See Figures 6, 7 and 8 Fig. Fig. 6: Rocker arm shaft torque sequence-diesel engine Fig. Fig. 7: Head gasket positioning-diesel engine Fig. Fig. 8: Cylinder head bolt torque sequence-diesel engine 1. Relieve the fuel pressure. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Drain the cooling system. CAUTION When draining the coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted by ethylene glycol antifreeze, and are quite likely to drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantity. Always drain the coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or several years old. 2. Remove the cooling fan assembly and the drive belt. Remove the alternator and bracket. 3. Remove the upper radiator hose and heater hose(s). 4. Remove the air cleaner and intake duct. 5. Label and disconnect the necessary vacuum hoses and electrical connectors. 6. Remove the fuel injector pipe, the clip and the nozzle holder assembly. 7. Remove the glow plugs and sensing resister. 8. If equipped with a turbocharger, remove the turbocharger cover and the turbocharger. 9. Remove the intake and exhaust manifolds from the cylinder head; discard the gaskets. 10. Remove the rocker arm cover, the valve tappet chamber cover and rocker oil feed pipe. 11. Back off the rocker arm adjustments. Remove the rocker arm assembly-to-cylinder head bolts and the rocker arm assembly. 12. Remove the pushrods and keep them in order for reinstallation purposes. 13. Remove the cylinder head-to-engine bolts, a little at a time, by reversing the torquing sequence. Remove the cylinder head; it may be necessary to use a mallet to tap the cylinder head loose from the engine. 14. Match the old gasket to the new cylinder head gasket and clean the gasket mounting surfaces. To install: 15. Using a new gasket, position it onto the engine with the work TOP facing upwards. 16. Refill the turbocharger with clean engine oil before installation. 17. Install the cylinder head onto the engine. Lubricate the cylinder head bolts with engine oil and torque them, in sequence, using the following procedure: Turbocharged Engine: 1st step: 33-40 ft. lbs. (45-54 Nm) 2nd step: 120-150° Non-Turbocharged Engine: 1st step: 40-47 ft. lbs. (54-63 Nm) 2nd step: 54-61 ft. lbs. (74-81 Nm) for a new bolt or 61-69 ft. lbs. (81-95 Nm) for a used bolt 18. Install the pushrods and make sure they are positioned in the tappets. 19. Install the rocker arm assembly and torque the rocker arm-to-cylinder head bolts to 10-17 ft. lbs. (14-24 Nm) Adjust the valve lash. 20. Using new gaskets, reverse the removal procedures. 21. Refill the cooling system. Connect the negative battery cable. Start the engine and check for leaks. 2.2L Gasoline Engine See Figure 9 Fig. Fig. 9: Cylinder head bolt torque sequence-2.2L gasoline engine 1. Properly relieve the fuel system pressure, then disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Drain the engine cooling system, then disconnect the air duct from the air inlet. 3. Disconnect the upper radiator hose, then remove the upper fan shroud. 4. Remove the radiator assembly, then remove the lower fan shroud. 5. Remove the fan assembly, then remove the serpentine drive belt. 6. Remove the water pump pulley. 7. Disconnect the heater hose form the intake manifold and the thermostat housing, then remove the thermostat housing. 8. Remove the alternator support brace and disengage the alternator wiring. See the Intake Manifold procedure, earlier in the section. 9. If equipped, remove the A/C compressor with brackets, then position them aside. DO NOT disconnect the refrigerant lines, but be careful not to kink and damage them. 10. Disconnect and reposition the accessory bracket along with the alternator and P/S pump still attached. Be careful not to damage the steering pump lines. 11. Disconnect the throttle cable and cable support linkage, then disconnect the heater hose from the water pump. 12. Remove the oil fill tube, then disconnect the exhaust pipe and the oxygen sensor. 13. Remove the exhaust manifold bolts, then remove the manifold. Refer to the Exhaust Manifold procedure, earlier in this section. 14. Tag and disconnect both the electrical wiring and the vacuum hoses from the upper intake manifold. See the Intake Manifold procedure, earlier in this section. 15. Remove the upper intake manifold, then tag and disconnect the wiring from the lower intake manifold. 16. Disconnect the fuel lines, then tag and disconnect the spark plug wires. 17. Remove the lower intake manifold from the engine. 18. Remove the rocker arm cover from the cylinder head. 19. Remove the rocker arms and pushrods. 20. Disconnect the engine lift bracket from the rear of the engine. 21. Remove the cylinder head bolts and studs, then carefully lift the cylinder head from the engine. To install: 22. Carefully clean and inspect the gasket mounting surfaces. The gasket surfaces on both the head and block must be clean of any foreign matter and free of nicks or heavy scratches. The cylinder bolt threads in the block and thread on the bolts must be cleaned (dirt will affect the bolt torque). 23. Place a new gasket over the dowel pins (DO NOT use any sealer on the gasket), then position the cylinder head over the gasket and dowels. 24. Apply a coating of GM-1052080 or equivalent sealer to the cylinder head bolt threads. Install the cylinder head bolts (within 15 minutes of sealer application), then tighten them in the proper sequence first to a torque of 46 ft. lbs. (63 Nm) for long bolts or to 43 ft. lbs. (58 Nm) for short bolts and then tighten all bolts an additional 90 degree turn using a torque angle meter. 25. Install the engine lift bracket. 26. Install the rocker arms and pushrods. 27. Install the rocker arm cover. 28. Install the lower intake manifold. Refer to the procedure earlier in this section for specifications. 29. Connect the spark plug wires and the fuel lines. 30. Engage the wiring to the lower intake manifold. 31. Install the upper intake manifold. Refer to the procedure earlier in this section for specifications. 32. Connect the vacuum hoses and electrical wiring to the upper intake, as tagged during removal. 33. Install the oil fill tube assembly. 34. Install the exhaust manifold, then connect the exhaust pipe and oxygen sensor. 35. Connect the heater hose to the water pump, then connect the throttle cable support and throttle cable. 36. Install the accessory support bracket and components. 37. If equipped, reposition and secure the A/C compressor. 38. Install the power steering support brace and the alternator support brace. Engage the alternator wiring. 39. Install the thermostat housing, then connect the heater hose to the housing. 40. Install the water pump pulley and the serpentine drive belt. 41. Install the fan assembly, then install the radiator and the lower fan shroud. 42. Install the upper fan shroud, then connect the upper radiator hose. 43. Connect the air inlet duct work, then connect the negative battery cable. 44. Properly refill the engine cooling system and check for leaks. 2.3L Engine See Figures 10, 11, 12, 13, 14 and 15 Fig. Fig. 10: Cylinder head removal sequence-2.3L and 2.6L engines Fig. Fig. 11: Rocker arm shaft bolt removal sequence-2.3L and 2.6L engines Fig. Fig. 12: Cylinder head bolt removal sequence-2.3L and 2.6L engines Fig. Fig. 13: Cylinder head gasket TOP mark must face up-2.3L shown Fig. Fig. 14: Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence-2.3L and 2.6L engines Fig. Fig. 15: Rocker arm shaft tightening sequence-2.3L and 2.6L engines 1. Disconnect negative battery cable and drain cooling system. CAUTION When draining the coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted by ethylene glycol antifreeze, and are quite likely to drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantity. Always drain the coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or several years old. 2. Rotate the engine until the engine is at TDC on the compression stroke of the No. 1 cylinder, make sure timing mark is on the scale. Remove distributor cap and mark the distributor rotor to housing position and housing to cylinder head. Remove the distributor hold down bolt and remove the distributor. 3. Disconnect radiator inlet and outlet hoses and remove the radiator. 4. Remove the alternator and the air conditioner drive belts. Remove engine fan. 5. Remove the crankshaft pulley center bolt and remove the pulley and hub assembly. 6. Remove the air pump belt and move the air pump out of the way. Remove the air conditioning compressor and lay it to one side (if equipped with air conditioning). Remove the compressor mounting bracket. 7. Remove the water pump pulley. Remove the top section of the front cover and the water pump. 8. Remove the lower section of the front cover. 9. Remove the tension spring. Loosen the top bolt of the tension pulley and draw the tension pulley fully to the water pump side. 10. Remove the timing belt. 11. Remove cam cover. 12. Sequentially loosen and remove the rocker arm shaft tightening nuts from the outermost one and remove the rocker arm shaft with the bracket as an assembly. 13. Raise vehicle and disconnect the exhaust pipe at the exhaust manifold. On turbocharged model disconnect exhaust pipe from wastegate manifold and remove control cable for turbocharger. 14. Lower vehicle disconnect all lines, hoses, electrical connections and spark plug wires. Tag all wires and hoses before disconnecting them from the engine. 15. Disconnect the accelerator linkage, on turbocharged model remove engine wiring harness assembly from fuel injectors and fuel line from fuel injector pipe. 16. Remove the cylinder head bolts using an extension bar with socket. Remove bolts in progressive sequence, beginning with the outer bolts. Use light oil to free frozen bolts. 17. With the aid of an assistant, remove the cylinder head, intake and exhaust manifolds as an assembly. To install: 18. Clean all gasket material from the cylinder head and block surfaces. Check for nicks or heavy scratches on the mating surfaces. 19. Cylinder bolt threads in the block and threads on the bolts must be cleaned. Dirt will affect head torque. 20. Match up the old gasket with the new gasket to make sure it is an exact fit. 21. Install the gasket and cylinder head with the help of an assistant. Torque in sequence and 2 steps first step 57 ft. lbs. (76 Nm) and second step 72 ft. lbs. (96 Nm). 22. Connect the accelerator linkage, on turbocharged model install engine wiring harness assembly to fuel injectors and fuel line to fuel injector pipe. 23. Connect all lines, hoses, electrical connections and spark plug wires. 24. Raise vehicle and connect the exhaust pipe at the exhaust manifold. On turbocharged model connect exhaust pipe to wastegate manifold and install control cable for turbocharger. 25. Sequentially install and torque the rocker arm shaft tightening nuts from the outermost one and install the rocker arm shaft with the bracket as an assembly. Refer to the appropriate illustration. 26. Install the rocker arm cover. 27. Install the timing belt. 28. Install the tension spring. Tighten the top bolt of the tension pulley. 29. Install the lower section of the front cover. 30. Install the water pump pulley. Install the top section of the front cover and the water pump. 31. Install the air pump and belt. Install the air conditioning compressor bracket and compressor. 32. Install the crankshaft pulley and center bolt. 33. Install the alternator and the air conditioner drive belts. Install engine fan. 34. Connect radiator inlet and outlet hoses and after installing the radiator. 35. Install the distributor, hold down bolt and cap. 36. Connect negative battery cable, refill the cooling system and check for leaks. 2.6L Engine See Figures 10, 11, 12, 13, 14 and 15 1. Relieve the fuel pressure. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Drain the cooling system. CAUTION When draining the coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted by ethylene glycol antifreeze, and are quite likely to drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantity. Always drain the coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or several years old. 2. Remove the drive belts from the power steering pump, the air pump, the air conditioning compressor (if equipped) and the cooling fan. 3. Rotate the engine to position the No. 1 cylinder on TDC. 4. Remove the distributor cap, high tension cables and the distributor. 5. Remove the exhaust manifold-to-exhaust pipe bolts. 6. Label and disconnect the electrical connectors and vacuum hoses which may be in the way. 7. Remove the coolant hoses, the radiator and the cooling fan assembly. 8. Remove the crankshaft pulley bolt and the pulley. 9. Remove the upper and lower timing belt covers, the tension spring and the timing belt. 10. Remove the camshaft pulley bolt, the pulley and the camshaft boss. 11. Remove the timing belt guide plate and the cylinder head front plate. 12. Remove the rocker arm cover and gasket. 13. Remove the cylinder head-to-engine bolts, the cylinder head and gasket. 14. Clean the gasket mounting surfaces. To install: 15. Using a new gasket, install the cylinder head and torque the bolts, in sequence to 57 ft. lbs. (76 Nm) in the 1st step and to 65-79 ft. lbs. (88-108 Nm) in the final step. 16. Install the camshaft pulley. 17. Using a new gasket, install the rocker arm cover. 18. Align the camshaft pulley mark with the mark on the front plate. Make sure the keyway on the crankshaft if facing upward, aimed at the pointer on the engine block. 19. Install the timing belt in the following order: crankshaft pulley, the oil pump pulley, the camshaft and the tensioner. 20. Install the timing belt covers, using a new gasket. 21. Install the crankshaft pulley. 22. Install the cooling fan assembly, the radiator and the coolant hoses. 23. Connect the electrical connectors and vacuum hoses. 24. Install the exhaust manifold-to-exhaust pipe bolts. 25. Install the distributor, the distributor cap, and the high tension cables. 26. Install the drive belts to the power steering pump, the air pump, the air conditioning compressor (if equipped) and the cooling fan. 27. Connect the negative battery cable. Refill the cooling system. 28. Start the engine and check for leaks. 2.8L Engine See Figures 16, 17, 18, 19, 20 and 21 Fig. Fig. 16: Cylinder head bolt removal sequence-2.8L engine Fig. Fig. 17: Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence-2.8L engine Fig. Fig. 18: Loosen the cylinder head bolts by stages, in the reverse order of the tighten sequence-2.8L engine Fig. Fig. 19: Remember to cover the engine to keep old gasket material and dirt from getting inside-2.8L engine Fig. Fig. 20: Place cylinder head aside, Make certain all mating surfaces are clean of dirt and gasket material-2.8L engine Fig. Fig. 21: Removing the cylinder head gasket-2.8L engine LEFT SIDE 1. Relieve the fuel pressure. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Drain the cooling system. CAUTION When draining the coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted by ethylene glycol antifreeze, and are quite likely to drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantity. Always drain the coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or several years old. 2. Remove the intake manifold. 3. Raise and safely support the vehicle. 4. Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold and remove the exhaust manifold-to-cylinder head bolts. 5. Remove the dipstick tube from the engine. 6. Lower the vehicle. 7. Loosen the rocker arm nuts, turn the rocker arms and remove the pushrods; keep the pushrods in the same order as removed. 8. Remove the cylinder head bolts in stages and in the reverse order of torquing. 9. Remove the cylinder head; do not pry on the head to loosen it. 10. Clean the gasket mounting surfaces. To install: 11. Position a new cylinder head gasket over the dowel pins with the words This Side Up facing upwards. Carefully, guide the cylinder head into place. 12. Install the pushrods; make sure the lower ends are in the lifter heads. Torque the rocker arm nuts to 14-20 ft. lbs. (20-27 Nm). 13. Install the intake manifold. 14. Install the dipstick tube to the engine. 15. Install the exhaust manifold-to-cylinder head bolts and the exhaust pipe-to-exhaust manifold nuts. 16. Refill the cooling system. Start the engine and check for leaks. RIGHT SIDE 1. Relieve the fuel pressure. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Drain the cooling system. CAUTION When draining the coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted by ethylene glycol antifreeze, and are quite likely to drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantity. Always drain the coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or several years old. 2. Remove the intake manifold. 3. If equipped, remove the cruise control servo bracket, the air management valve and hose. 4. Raise and safely support the vehicle. 5. Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold and remove the exhaust manifold-to-cylinder head bolts. 6. Remove the exhaust pipe at crossover, the crossover and the heat shield, if equipped. 7. Lower the vehicle. 8. Label and disconnect the electrical wiring and vacuum hoses that may interfere with the removal of the right cylinder head. 9. Loosen the rocker arm nuts, turn the rocker arms and remove the pushrods; keep the pushrods in the same order as removed. 10. Remove the cylinder head bolts in stages and in the reverse order of torquing. 11. Remove the cylinder head; do not pry on the head to loosen it. 12. Clean the gasket mounting surfaces. To install: 13. Position a new cylinder head gasket over the dowel pins with the words This Side Up facing upwards. Carefully, guide the cylinder head into place. 14. Install the pushrods; make sure the lower ends are in the lifter heads. Torque the rocker arm nuts to 14-20 ft. lbs. (20-27 Nm). 15. Install the intake manifold. 16. Install the exhaust pipe at crossover, the crossover and the heat shield, if equipped. 17. Install the exhaust manifold-to-cylinder head bolts and the exhaust pipe-to-exhaust manifold nuts. 18. Connect the electrical wiring and vacuum hoses to the right cylinder head. 19. If equipped, install the cruise control servo bracket, the air management valve and hose. 20. Refill the cooling system. Start the engine and check for leaks. 3.1L Engine See Figures 22 and 23 Fig. Fig. 22: Cylinder head bolt removal sequence-3.1L engine Fig. Fig. 23: Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence-3.1L engine LEFT SIDE 1. Relieve the fuel pressure. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Drain the cooling system. 2. Remove the intake manifold. 3. Raise and safely support the vehicle. 4. Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold and remove the exhaust manifold-to-cylinder head bolts. 5. Remove the dipstick tube from the engine. 6. Lower the vehicle. 7. Loosen the rocker arm nuts, turn the rocker arms and remove the pushrods; keep the pushrods in the same order as removed. 8. Remove the cylinder head bolts in stages and in the reverse order of torquing. 9. Remove the cylinder head; do not pry on the head to loosen it. 10. Clean the gasket mounting surfaces thoroughly. To install: 11. Position a new cylinder head gasket over the dowel pins with the words This Side Up facing upwards. Carefully, guide the cylinder head into place. 12. Torque the cylinder head bolts in sequence to 41 ft. lbs. (55 Nm) then go back and turn each bolt an additional 90 degrees. 13. Install the pushrods; make sure the lower ends are in the lifter heads. Torque the rocker arm nuts to 14-20 ft. lbs. (20-27 Nm). 14. Install the intake manifold. 15. Install the dipstick tube to the engine. 16. Install the exhaust manifold-to-cylinder head bolts and the exhaust pipe-to-exhaust manifold nuts. 17. Refill the cooling system. Start the engine and check for leaks. RIGHT SIDE 1. Relieve the fuel pressure. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Drain the cooling system. 2. Remove the intake manifold. 3. If equipped, remove the cruise control servo bracket, the air management valve and hose. 4. Raise and safely support the vehicle. 5. Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold and remove the exhaust manifold-to-cylinder head bolts. 6. Remove the exhaust pipe at crossover, the crossover and the heat shield, if equipped. 7. Lower the vehicle. 8. Label and disconnect the electrical wiring and vacuum hoses that may interfere with the removal of the right cylinder head. 9. Loosen the rocker arm nuts, turn the rocker arms and remove the pushrods; keep the pushrods in the same order as removed. 10. Remove the cylinder head bolts in stages and in the reverse order of torquing. 11. Remove the cylinder head; do not pry on the head to loosen it. 12. Clean the gasket mounting surfaces thoroughly. To install: 13. Position a new cylinder head gasket over the dowel pins with the words This Side Up facing upwards. Carefully, guide the cylinder head into place. 14. Torque the cylinder head bolts in sequence to 41 ft. lbs. (55 Nm) then go back and turn each bolt an additional 90 degrees. 15. Install the pushrods; make sure the lower ends are in the lifter heads. Torque the rocker arm nuts to 14-20 ft. lbs. (20-27 Nm). 16. Install the intake manifold. 17. Install the exhaust pipe at crossover, the crossover and the heat shield, if equipped. 18. Install the exhaust manifold-to-cylinder head bolts and the exhaust pipe-to-exhaust manifold nuts. 19. Connect the electrical wiring and vacuum hoses to the right cylinder head. 20. If equipped, install the cruise control servo bracket, the air management valve and hose. 21. Refill the cooling system. Start the engine and check for leaks. 3.2L Engine 1993-95 VEHICLES See Figures 24, 25, 26, 27 and 28 Fig. Fig. 24: Camshaft seal replacement parts-3.2L engine Fig. Fig. 25: Cylinder head removal sequence-1993-95 3.2L engine Fig. Fig. 26: Cylinder head bolt removal sequence-1993-95 3.2L engine Fig. Fig. 27: Cylinder head bolt torque sequence-1993-95 3.2L engine Fig. Fig. 28: Accelerator cable adjustment-1993-95 3.2L engine Isuzu has issued a recall notice for 1993-94 Rodeos equipped with 3.2L engines. This is campaign number 94V-094, and involves faulty camshaft end plugs. The plugs may dislodge from the cylinder heads and can cause rapid oil loss. Remember this when ordering parts: a service kit is available for affected vehicles. 1. Matchmark the hood hinge to the hood and remove the hood. 2. Relieve the fuel system pressure and disconnect the negative battery cable. 3. Remove the air cleaner assembly. 4. Remove the upper cooling fan shroud. 5. Remove the cooling fan assembly. 6. Disconnect the accelerator cable from the throttle body and the bracket. 7. Disconnect the canister vacuum hose from the vacuum pipe. 8. Disconnect the air vacuum hose from the common chamber. 9. Disconnect the vacuum booster hose from the common chamber. 10. Disconnect the MAP sensor; Canister vacuum switching valve (VSV); Exhaust gas recirculation (VSV); Intake air temperature sensor and ground connectors. 11. Remove the spark plug wires from the cylinder head cover. 12. Remove the ignition control module assembly. 13. Remove the four bolts and the throttle body from the common chamber. 14. Disconnect the vacuum hoses from the throttle body. 15. Disconnect the positive crankcase ventilation hose from the common chamber. 16. Disconnect the fuel pressure control valve vacuum hose from the common chamber. 17. Disconnect the evaporative emission canister purge hose from the common chamber. 18. Remove the EGR valve assembly. 19. Remove the common chamber from the intake manifold. 20. Disconnect the fuel feed and return hoses from the fuel rail assembly. 21. Disconnect the connectors to the fuel injectors and the thermo sensor. 22. Remove the intake manifold. 23. Remove the engine coolant manifold by removing the heater hose and four mounting bolts. 24. Remove the accessory drive belts. 25. Remove the power steering pump. 26. Remove the fan pulley assembly. 27. Remove the crankshaft pulley and damper. 28. Remove the oil cooler hoses and bracket on the timing belt cover. 29. Remove the timing belt cover. 30. Align the timing marks. 31. Remove the timing belt auto tensioner (pusher). The pusher prevents air from entering the oil chamber. Its rod must always be facing upward. 32. Remove the timing belt. 33. Remove the cylinder head cover. 34. Remove the power steering pump bracket. 35. Remove the front exhaust pipes from the exhaust manifolds. 36. Remove the dipstick tube bracket from the cylinder head. WARNING The cylinder head and engine block must be at room temperature before removing the cylinder head. 37. Remove the cylinder head bolts in sequence, gradually and in two steps. 38. Remove the cylinder head. To install: 39. Install new camshaft seals and retaining plates onto the cylinder. Tighten the right camshaft seal retaining plate 6mm bolts to 65 inch lbs. Tighten the left camshaft seal retaining plate 8mm bolts to 191 inch lbs. 40. Thoroughly clean the cylinder head and engine block sealing surfaces. 41. Place a new head gasket on the engine block and carefully position the cylinder head on top of the new gasket. Do not reuse or apply oil to the cylinder head bolts. 42. Install new cylinder head bolts and torque them in sequence to 47 ft. lbs. (64 Nm) for the M11 bolts and 15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm) for the M8 bolts. 43. Install the dipstick tube bracket to the cylinder head. 44. Connect the front exhaust pipes to the exhaust manifolds. Tighten the exhaust bolts to 48 ft. lbs. (67 Nm). 45. Install the power steering pump bracket. Torque the mounting bolts to 34 ft. lbs. (46 Nm). 46. Install the cylinder head covers. 47. Install the timing belt and the auto tensioner (pusher). Torque the mounting bolt to 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm). 48. Install the timing belt cover and oil cooler hoses and bracket. 49. Install the crankshaft pulley. Torque the center bolt to 123 ft. lbs. (167 Nm). 50. Install the fan pulley assembly. 51. Install the power steering pump. 52. Install the accessory drive belts. 53. Install the engine coolant manifold and the heater hose. 54. Install the intake manifold. Torque the nuts and bolts to 17 ft. lbs. (24 Nm) in a crisscross pattern. 55. Install the fuel injector connectors and the fuel hoses to the fuel rail. 56. Install the common chamber. Torque the nuts and bolts to 17 ft. lbs. (24 Nm). 57. Install the EGR valve assembly. Torque the mounting bolts on the valve side to 69 inch lbs. (8 Nm) and the bolts on the exhaust side to 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm). 58. Connect the evaporative emission canister purge hose. 59. Connect the fuel pressure control valve vacuum hose. 60. Connect the positive crankcase ventilation hose. 61. Install the throttle body assembly. Torque the mounting bolts to 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm). 62. Connect the vacuum hoses to the throttle body. 63. Install t