Acura - TL - Workshop Manual - 2002 - 2008

Page 976 Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch: Description and Operation How the Circuit Works The climate control unit controls the blower controls, air delivery, and A/C compressor controls automatically. With the ignition switch in ON (II), battery voltage is supplied through fuse 14. The control unit is grounded at G402. A/C Pressure Switch The A/C pressure switch is located in the condenser outlet line where refrigerant is in a high temperature/high pressure liquid state. The switch will sense abnormally high or low pressure, and open the circuit. This removes ground from the ECM/PCM, and turns off the compressor. Page 445 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. Page 895 Wheel Speed Sensor: Diagrams 89. Wheel Speed Sensor (except Canada Base), Left Front 90. Wheel Speed Sensor (except Canada Base), Left Rear 91. Wheel Speed Sensor (except Canada Base), Right Front Page 532 Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Part 1 Page 871 Trunk / Liftgate Switch: Testing and Inspection Hatch Latch Switch Test 1. Open the hatch. 2. Remove the hatch trim panel. 3. Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the hatch latch (B). 4. Check for continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals. - There should be continuity with the hatch open. - There should be no continuity with the hatch closed. Page 557 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Description and Operation Fuel Cut Control Unit: Description and Operation Fuel Cut-off Control During deceleration with the throttle valve closed, current to the injectors is cut off to improve fuel economy at speeds over 930 rpm (1100 rpm)(*1). Fuel cut-off action also occurs when engine speed exceeds 6,900 rpm (8100 rpm)(*1), regardless of the position of the throttle valve, to protect the engine from over-revving. When the vehicle is stopped, the PCM cuts the fuel at engine speeds over 5,500 rpm. *1: K20A2 engine Page 64 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. Wire Color Abbreviations Page 1057 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Locations 56. Middle Of Dash Page 138 Page 703 Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.5 terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.4 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 690 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Diagnostic Aids How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. Page 666 Page 1145 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 551 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. Page 169 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the above mentioned NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. Page 742 OPDS Sensor Refer to the parts catalog for the applicable part number if needed. Seat-Back Panel Clips All models except RSX: P/N 91566-SP0-003 (3.2CL, MDX, 3.2TL: 2 required; 3.5RL: 3 required) TOOL INFORMATION HDS with software version 2.002.006 or later, or SCS Service Connector: T/N 07PAZ-0010100A WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Failed Part: OPDS Unit: P/N 81334-S0K-A61 Defect Code: 55A00 Symptom Code: Q0900 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repairs to the SRS system for problems other than the 15-1,15-2, and 15-3 DTCs that are done after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. INSPECTION PROCEDURE NOTE: ^ When you check for SRS DTCs with the HDS, codes other than 15-1,15-2, and 15-3 are not covered by this warranty extension bulletin. If you find other SRS DTCs, file a claim only for the SRS DTCs - Retrieve and clear (use operation number: 723507, defect code: 55A00, and symptom code: Q0900 as listed above). ^ Other SRS codes and their repairs are not covered by this bulletin. If the vehicle is covered by warranty, repair it using the normal warranty repair procedures. If the vehicle's warranty is expired, give your client an estimate for the cost of the repair. Do the appropriate inspection, based on the DTC. SRS DTC 15-1 Page 1127 Page 541 Page 410 Body Control Module: Diagnostic Aids How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. ECM/PCM Powertrain Control Module: Connector Views ECM/PCM 203. ECM/PCM Page 1055 Key Reminder Switch: Diagnostic Aids How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. Page 656 Page 430 Page 164 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 148 Page 278 Page 1131 Page 190 184. Cruise Control Unit (except Canada Base) Testing and Inspection Windshield Washer Control Module: Testing and Inspection Control Unit Input Test 1. Before testing, troubleshoot the multiplex control system. 2. Remove the dashboard lower cover. 3. Disconnect the under-dash fuse/relay box connectors B, F, G, J, X and Y. NOTE: All connectors are wire side of female terminals. 4. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals are OK, go to step 5. 5. Reconnect the connectors, and make these input tests at the connector. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 6. - If all the input tests prove OK, the multiplex control unit must be faulty; replace the under-dash fuse/relay box assembly. 06-008 Seat Occupant Classification Module - Air Bag: All Technical Service Bulletins Campaign Occupant Detection Unit Warranty Extension 06-008 February 5, 2008 Applies To: SEE VEHICLES AFFECTED Warranty Extension: OPDS Unit or OPDS Sensor Triggers SRS DTC(s) 15-1,15-2,15-3 (Supersedes 06-008, dated March 22, 2006, to update the information marked by asterisks. Replaces 02-034, SRS Indicator Comes on with SRS DTC(s) 15-1, 15-2, 15-3, dated April 23, 2004) BACKGROUND *NOTE: Because of a class action settlement, the warranty extension coverage for the OPDS unit and the OPDS sensor on 2002-03 3.2CLs, 2002 MDXs, 2002-04 3.5RLs, 2002-04 RSXs, and 2002-03 3.2TLs purchased or leased between April 13, 2002, and November 7, 2006, is now 10 years or 157,500 miles, whichever occurs first. For more information, refer to Service Bulletin 06-050, Warranty Extension: Vehicle Warranty Mileage.* Several vehicle models may have a problem with the OPDS (occupant position detection system) that causes the SRS indicator to stay on. Typically, one or more of these DTCs will be set: ^ SRS DTC 15-1 (faulty OPDS unit or OPDS not initialized) ^ SRS DTC 15-2 (faulty side airbag indicator circuit) ^ SRS DTC 15-3 (faulty OPDS sensor) To ensure continued reliability with the OPDS, American Honda is extending the warranty on the OPDS unit and the OPDS sensor to 10 years or 150,000 miles, whichever occurs first. This warranty extension does not apply to any vehicle that has ever been declared a total loss, or any that has been issued a salvage, branded, or similar title under any state's law. To check for vehicle eligibility, you must do a VIN status inquiry VEHICLES AFFECTED CLIENT NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles were mailed a notification of this warranty extension. An example of the notification is at the end of this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Repair the vehicle as indicated by the INSPECTION PROCEDURE. If needed, replace the OPDS unit. In rare cases where an updated OPDS unit was already installed, replace the OPDS sensor. PARTS INFORMATION Page 1133 Page 246 Page 497 Powertrain Control Module: Testing and Inspection ECM/PCM Idle Learn Procedure The idle learn procedure must be done so the ECM/PCM can learn the engine idle characteristics. Perform the idle learn procedure whenever you do any of these: - Disconnect the battery - Replace the ECM/PCM or disconnect its connector. - Reset the ECM/PCM. NOTE: Erasing DTC's with the Honda PGM Tester does not require you to do the idle learn procedure. - Remove the No. 6 ECU (ECM/PCM) (15A) fuse from the under-hood fuse/relay box. - Remove PGM-FI main relay 1. - Remove any of the wires from the under-hood fuse/relay box. - Disconnect any of the connectors from the under-hood fuse/relay box. - Disconnect the connector between the engine compartment wire harness and ECM/PCM wire harness. - Disconnect the G2 terminal from the transmission housing. - Disconnect the G1 terminal from the body. - Disconnect the G101 terminal from the water passage. Procedure To complete the idle learn procedure do this: 1. Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio, rear defogger, lights, etc.) are off. 2. Start the engine, and hold it at 3,000 rpm with no load (in park or neutral) until the radiator fan comes on, or until the engine coolant temperature reaches 194° F (90° C). 3. Let the engine idle for about 5 minutes with the throttle fully closed. NOTE: If the radiator fan comes on, do not include it's running time in the 5 minutes. Page 1141 Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Page 928 135. Brake Pedal Position Switch Page 474 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector E (31P) - Part 2 Page 568 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Diagnostic Aids Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures Page 620 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. Page 491 PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector C (22P) Page 97 Power Door Lock Control Module: Testing and Inspection Control Unit Input Test 1. Before testing, troubleshoot the multiplex control system. 2. Remove the dashboard lower cover. 3. Disconnect the under-dash fuse/relay box connectors. NOTE: All connectors are wire side of female terminals. 4. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals are OK, go to step 5. Circuit Schematics Key Reminder Switch: Diagram Information and Instructions Circuit Schematics Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which Circuit Schematics Air Flow Meter/Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions Circuit Schematics Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which Page 141 Page 695 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Page 520 shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Page 631 Fuel Pump Relay: Diagnostic Aids How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. Page 128 Radiator Cooling Fan Control Module: Diagram Information and Instructions Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Page 1128 Five-Step Troubleshooting Key Reminder Switch: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Page 11 Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.5 terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.4 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 460 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. Page 693 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Diagnostic Aids How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. Page 370 Body Control Module: Diagram Information and Instructions Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Page 662 Page 412 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. Page 696 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Diagnostic Aids Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures Page 894 125. Right Side Of Engine 136. Left Rear Underside Of Vehicle (ex. Canada Base) Page 326 Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power is disconnected. Normally-open type B: Page 957 Ambient Temperature Sensor / Switch HVAC: Service and Repair Outside Air Temperature Sensor Replacement 1. Lift the tab (A) to release the lock, and remove the outside air temperature sensor (B), then disconnect the 2P connector (C). 2. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal. Page 737 6. From the Select Mode screen, select SCS, and follow the screen prompts.Connect the SCS service connector to the 2P MES (memory erase signal) connector, as shown. Do not use a jumper wire. (On 3.5RLs, this step requires two SCS service connectors.) 7. Turn the ignition switch to the ON (II) position. 8. Watch the SRS indicator. (It comes on for about 6 seconds and then goes off.) Disconnect the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds after the indicator goes off. 9. When the SRS indicator comes on again, connect the SCS service connector to the MES connector within 4 seconds after the indicator comes on. 10. When the SRS indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds. 11. Watch the SRS indicator: ^ If the indicator blinks twice and then goes off, the OPDS is initialized. Turn the ignition switch to the LOCK (0) position, and disconnect the HDS (all models except 3.5RLs), or disconnect the SCS service connector from the 2P service check connector (3.5RLs). ^ If the indicator blinks twice and then stays on, the OPDS is initialized, but SRS DTCs need to be cleared. Go to step 13. ^ If the indicator stays on without first blinking, the OPDS is not initialized. Repeat steps 3 thru 12. 12. Turn the ignition switch to the LOCK (0) position, then disconnect the HDS. 13. Reconnect the SCS service connector to the MES connector. Do not use a jumper wire. Page 59 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 261 Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.5 terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.4 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 863 Sunroof / Moonroof Switch: Testing and Inspection Switch Test/Replacement 1. Carefully pry out the driver's switch panel. 2. Disconnect the 6P connector (A) from the moonroof switch (B), then remove the switch. 3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. 4. If necessary, check the illumination bulbs (C). Page 505 Powertrain Control Module: Service and Repair How to Set Readiness Codes How to Set Readiness Codes Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Indication (In relation to Readiness Codes) The vehicle has certain "readiness codes" that are part of the on-board diagnostics for the emissions Systems. If the vehicle's battery has been disconnected or gone dead, if the DTCs have been cleared, or if the ECM/PCM has been reset, these codes are reset. In some states, part of the emissions testing is to make sure these codes are set to complete. If all of them are not set to complete, the vehicle may fail the emission test, or the test cannot be finished. To check if the readiness codes are complete, turn the ignition switch ON (II), but do not start the engine. The MIL will come on for 15-20 seconds. If it then goes off, the readiness codes are complete. If it blinks several times, one or more readiness codes are not complete. To set readiness codes from incomplete to complete, do the procedure for the appropriate code. Catalytic Converter Monitor and Readiness Code NOTES: - Do not turn the ignition switch off during the procedure. - All readiness codes are cleared when the battery is disconnected or when the ECM/PCM is cleared with the OBD II scan tool or Honda PGM Tester. - Low ambient temperatures or excessive stop-and-go traffic may increase the drive time needed to switch the readiness code from incomplete to complete. - The readiness code will not switch to complete until all the enable criteria are met. - If a fault in the secondary HO2S system caused the MIL to come on, the readiness code cannot be set to complete until you correct the fault. Enable Criteria: - ECT at 158°F (70°C) or higher. - Intake air temperature (IAT) at 2O°F (-7°C) or higher. - Vehicle speed is steady, and vehicle speed sensor (VSS) reads more then 25 mph (40 km/h). Procedure 1. Connect the scan tool to the vehicle's data link connector (DLC), and bring up the tool's generic OBD II mode. 2. Start the engine. 3. Test-drive the vehicle under stop-and-go conditions with short periods of steady cruise. After about 5 miles (8 km), the readiness code should switch from incomplete to complete. 4. If the readiness code is still set to incomplete, check for a temporary DTC. If there is no DTC, one or more of the enable criteria were probably not met; repeat the procedure. Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) Control System Monitor and Readiness code NOTES: - All readiness code are cleared when the battery is disconnected or when the ECM/PCM is cleared with the OBD II scan tool or Honda PGM Tester. - The enable criteria must be repeated if the intake air temperature (IAT) drops lower then 36^F (20^C) from its value at engine start up. Enable Criteria - At engine start up, ECT and IAT are higher then 32°F (0°C), but lower then 95°F (35°C). - At engine start up, the ECT and AT are within 12°F (7°C) of each other. Procedure 1. Connect the scan tool to the vehicle's data link connector (DLC), and bring up the tool's generic OBD II mode. 2. Start the engine. 3. Test-drive the vehicle under stop-and-go conditions with short periods of steady cruise. After about 2.5 miles (4.0 km), the readiness code should switch from incomplete to complete. 4. If the readiness code is still set to incomplete, check for a temporary DTC. If there is no DTC, one or more of the enable criteria were probably not met; repeat the procedure. Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor Monitor and Readiness Code NOTE: - Do not turn the ignition switch off during the procedure. - All readiness codes are cleared when the battery is disconnected or when the ECM/PCM is cleared with the OBD II scan tool or Honda PGM Tester. How to Replace Connector Terminals Powertrain Control Module: Diagnostic Aids How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. Page 596 Page 78 General Module: Diagnostic Aids Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 1085 189. Combination Light Switch Page 633 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. Page 127 Radiator Cooling Fan Control Module: Diagram Information and Instructions Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 325 Tail Lamp Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: See the turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type, A: Page 472 PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector D (17P) Page 1060 159. Ignition Key Switch/Key Light Page 36 Page 55 Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Page 667 Page 886 Parking Brake Warning Switch: Testing and Inspection Parking Brake Switch Test 1. Remove the console, and disconnect the connector (A) from the switch (B). 2. Check for continuity between the positive terminal and body ground: - With the brake lever up, there should be continuity. - With the brake lever down, there should be no continuity. Page 30 General Module: Diagram Information and Instructions Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 569 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Diagnostic Aids Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 50 Page 660 Page 608 Page 701 Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power is disconnected. Normally-open type B: Page 1158 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the above mentioned NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. Page 1052 Key Reminder Switch: Diagnostic Aids How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. Page 17 4. With the connectors still disconnected, make these input tests at the connector. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 5. Page 603 Page 723 4. Reconnect the side airbag connectors. 5. Reconnect both seat belt tensioner connectors and both seat belt buckle tensioner connectors. 6. Reconnect the battery negative cable. 7. Initialize the OPDS unit. 8. After installing the SRS unit, confirm proper system operation: Turn the ignition switch ON (II); the SRS indicator should come on for about 6 seconds and then go off. Page 661 Page 399 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. Page 956 Ambient Temperature Sensor / Switch HVAC: Testing and Inspection Outside Air Temperature Sensor Test Dip the sensor in ice water, and measure the resistance. Then pour hot water on the sensor, and check for a change in resistance. Compare the resistance reading between the No.1 and No.2 terminals of the outside air temperature sensor with the specifications shown in the graph; the resistance should be within the specifications. Page 562 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Diagnostic Aids How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. Page 1063 Key Reminder Switch: Testing and Inspection Ignition Key Switch Test NOTE: For more key-in beeper information, refer to the circuit diagram and input test. When the ignition key is in the ignition, the key-in beeper circuit of the multiplex control unit in the senses ground through the closed ignition key switch. When you open the driver's door, the beeper circuit senses ground through the closed door switch. When both switches are closed (driver's door and ignition), the key-in beeper in the gauge assembly is activated. 1. Remove the steering column upper and lower covers. 2. Disconnect the 6P connector. 3. Check for continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals. - There should be continuity with the key in the ignition switch. - There should be no continuity with the key removed. Page 288 Page 302 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. Page 670 Page 297 Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking voltage drop. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. Page 275 Page 382 Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 1142 Air Flow Meter/Sensor: Diagnostic Aids Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Locations 3. Right Side Of Engine Comp. (except Canada Base) Page 145 Page 546 Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Page 637 Fuel Pump Relay: Diagnostic Aids Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures Page 316 Interior Lighting Module: Diagnostic Aids Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures Page 405 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 1156 1. Remove the terminal 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL TERMINALS. Page 423 Page 697 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Diagnostic Aids Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Part 1 Page 1017 Page 19 Alarm Module: Service and Repair Immobilizer Control Unit-Receiver Replacement 1. Remove the dashboard lower cover. 2. Remove the steering column covers. 3. Disconnect the 7P connector (A) from the immobilizer control unit-receiver (B). 4. Remove the two screws and the immobilizer control unit-receiver from the ignition key cylinder (C). 5. Install the immobilizer control unit-receiver in the reverse order of removal. 6. After replacement, rewrite the unit with a Honda PGM Tester, then check the immobilizer system. Locations 54. Middle Of Dash Page 182 Radiator Cooling Fan Motor Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: See the turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type, A: Page 1056 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. Page 18 5. Reconnect the connectors to the security control Unit, and perform the following input tests at the appropriate connector. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If the input tests prove OK, the security control unit internal circuit must be faulty, replace the control unit. Page 172 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. How to Replace Connector Terminals Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Diagnostic Aids How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. Page 675 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Diagnostic Aids Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Page 1126 Locations Exterior Lights Component Location Index Part 3 Page 281 Page 395 Body Control Module: Diagnostic Aids Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Relay Box: Connector Locations Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Connector To Fuse/Relay Box Index Image 49 Page 76 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Page 402 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. Page 982 79. Sunlight Sensor Page 451 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 579 146. A/F Sensor Relay And Seat Heater Relay (Canada) Page 1140 Air Flow Meter/Sensor: Diagnostic Aids Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Page 1016 Page 940 Cruise Control Switch: Testing and Inspection Set/Resume/Cancel Switch Set/Resume/Cancel Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the two screws, then remove the switch. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals in switch position according to the table. - If there is continuity, and it matches the table, but switch failure occurred on the cruise control unit input test, check and repair the wire harness on the switch circuit. - If there is no continuity in one or both positions, replace the switch. Page 277 Page 473 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector E (31P) - Part 1 Page 908 Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair ECT Sensor Replacement 1. When the engine is cool, drain the coolant from the radiator. 2. Remove the air cleaner. 3. Disconnect the ECT sensor 2P connector. 4. Remove the ECT sensor (A). 5. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (B). 6. Refill the cooling system. Page 452 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 1011 Key Reminder Switch: Diagram Information and Instructions Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 1115 shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Page 253 Blower Motor Relay Rear Window Defogger Relay Rear BOSE Stereo Amplifier Relay Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.3 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.2 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.3 terminals when power is disconnected. Five-terminal type: Page 1137 Page 307 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: Page 1160 Air Flow Meter/Sensor: Diagnostic Aids How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. Page 852 Power Mirror Switch: Service and Repair Power Mirror Switch Test/ Replacement 1. Carefully pry out the driver's switch panel. 2. Disconnect the 13P connector (A) from the power mirror switch (B). 3. Remove the two screws and the switch. 4. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. 5. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the switch. How to Troubleshoot Circuits at the ECM/PCM Powertrain Control Module: Testing and Inspection How to Troubleshoot Circuits at the ECM/PCM How to Troubleshoot Circuits at the ECM/PCM Special Tools Required - Digital Multimeter KS-AHM-32-003 (1) or a commercially available digital multimeter - Backprobe Set 07SAZ-001000A (2) 1. Connect the backprobe adapters (A) to the stacking patch cords (B), and connect the cords to a digital multimeter (C). 2. Using the wire insulation as a guide for the contoured tip of the backprobe adapter, gently slide the tip into the connector from the wire side until it touches the end of the wire terminal. 3. If you cannot get to the wire side of the connector or the wire side is sealed (A), disconnect the connector and probe the terminals (B) from the terminal side. Do not force the probe into the connector. NOTE: Do not puncture the insulation on a wire. Punctures can cause poor or intermittent electrical connections. Locations 68. Behind Glove Box SRS Unit Air Bag Control Module: Description and Operation SRS Unit SRS Unit The main circuit in the SRS unit senses and judges the force of impact and, if necessary, ignites the inflator charges. If battery voltage is too low or power is disconnected due to the impact, the voltage regulator and the back-up power circuit respectively will keep voltage at a constant level. Page 434 Following is a list of all OBD II DTCs and their associated monitors for all Acuras with OBD II. No one model has every DTC in the list. Disclaimer Page 411 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the above mentioned NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. Page 371 Body Control Module: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System How to Identify Connector Terminals Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they're in. The cavities are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown above is #6. Page 595 Page 448 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. Page 1046 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: Page 86 6. Reconnect all connectors to the under-dash fuse/relay box, and make these input tests at the appropriate connectors on the under-dash fuse/relay box If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, the multiplex control unit must be faulty, replace the under-dash fuse/relay box assembly. Page 598 Page 98 5. With the connector still disconnected, make these input tests at the connector. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 6 Page 42 Page 431 Page 276 Locations 126. Right Side Of Engine Page 199 Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power is disconnected. Normally-open type B: Page 521 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Diagram Information and Instructions Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 422 Page 792 Blower Motor Relay Rear Window Defogger Relay Rear BOSE Stereo Amplifier Relay Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.3 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.2 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.3 terminals when power is disconnected. Five-terminal type: Page 268 shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. SRS Unit Air Bag Control Module: Service and Repair SRS Unit SRS Unit Replacement Removal 1. Disconnect the battery negative cable, and wait at least 3 minutes before beginning work. 2. Disconnect the driver's and front passenger's airbag connectors. 3. Disconnect the side airbag connectors. 4. Disconnect both seat belt tensioner connectors and both seat belt buckle tensioner connectors. 5. Remove the dashboard center lower cover. 6. Pull down the carpet, then remove the Torx bolt (A) from the SRS unit. 7. Disconnect the connectors and remove the two Torx bolts (A), then pull out the SRS unit from the right side. Installation 1. Install the new SRS unit (A) with Torx bolts (B), then connect the connectors (C) to the SRS unit; push it into position until it clicks. NOTE: When tightening the Torx bolts to the specified torque after replacement, be careful to turn them in so that their heads rest squarely on the brackets. 2. Reinstall the dashboard center lower cover. 3. Reconnect the driver's and front passenger's airbag connectors . Page 1035 Key Reminder Switch: Diagnostic Aids Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Page 403 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. Page 780 Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power is disconnected. Normally-open type B: Page 686 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Terminal Values Powertrain Control Module: Testing and Inspection Terminal Values ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector A (31P) Part 1 Page 724 Air Bag Control Module: Service and Repair OPDS Unit Replacement OPDS Unit Replacement NOTE: Review the seats replacement procedure in the body section before performing repair or service. Removal 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable, and wait at least 3 minutes before beginning work. 2. Disconnect the side airbag harness 2P connector. 3. Remove the seat assembly and seat-back cover. 4. Remove the cover (A), then disconnect the OPDS unit harness 8P and sensor connectors from the OPDS unit. 5. Remove the two screws (B) and OPDS unit (C). Installation 1. Place the new OPDS unit on the seat-back frame. Tighten the two screws (A), and connect the OPDS unit harness 8P and sensor connector to the OPDS unit. Reinstall the cover. 2. Install the seat-back cover. 3. Install the seat assembly, then connect the side airbag harness 2P connector. 4. Reconnect the battery negative cable. 5. Set the seat-back in the normal position, and make sure there is nothing sitting on the front passenger's seat. 6. Initialize the OPDS unit. 7. After installing the OPDS unit, confirm proper system operation: Turn the ignition switch ON (II); the SRS indicator should come on for about 6 seconds and then go off. Page 566 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. Page 407 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: Page 755 Starting System Component Location Index Page 220 68. Behind Glove Box (A/T) Page 1018 Page 67 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 470 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector B (24P) - Part 2 Page 285 Page 315 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Page 699 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Description and Operation PGM-FI Main Relay 1 and 2 The PGM-FI relay consists of two separate relays. The PGM-FI main relay 1 is energized whenever the ignition switch is ON (II) to supply battery voltage to the ECM/ PCM, power to the injectors, and power for PGM-FI main relay 2. The PGM-FI main relay 2 is energized to supply power to the fuel pump for 2 seconds when the ignition switch is turned ON (II), and when the engine is running. Circuit Schematics General Module: Diagram Information and Instructions Circuit Schematics Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which Page 351 Relay Box: Diagrams 206. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 927 46. Under Left Side Of Dash Wire Color Abbreviations Page 820 125. Security Latch Switch Locations 31. Left Side Of Dash Page 969 Evaporator Temperature Sensor / Switch: Description and Operation How the Circuit Works The climate control unit controls the blower controls, air delivery, and A/C compressor controls automatically. With the ignition switch in ON (II), battery voltage is supplied through fuse 14. The control unit is grounded at G402. Evaporator Temperature Sensor The evaporator temperature sensor is located on the evaporator housing. If the temperature at the evaporator gets too cold, the evaporator temperature sensor sends a signal to the climate control unit to turn off the A/C compressor clutch. This prevents condensation from freezing on the evaporator fins and blocking air delivery into the passenger compartment. Page 440 Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Cruise Control Master Switch Test/Replacement Cruise Control Switch: Service and Repair Cruise Control Master Switch Test/Replacement Main Switch Test/Replacement 1. Gently pry up on the driver's switch panel (A) to release the hooks (B), then pull out the panel. 2. Release the clips, and push the main switch (A) out of the panel, then disconnect the 5P connector (B) from the main switch. 3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. If there is no continuity, check the illumination bulbs (C). If the bulbs are OK, replace the switch. Page 296 Interior Lighting Module: Diagnostic Aids Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Locations Power Window Relay: Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Part 1 Page 1051 1. Remove the terminal 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL TERMINALS. Page 905 37. ECT Sensor Circuit Schematics Radiator Cooling Fan Control Module: Diagram Information and Instructions Circuit Schematics Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which Page 857 Seat Heater Switch: Testing and Inspection Seat Heater Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the dashboard center lower cover. 2. Disconnect the lop connector (A) from the seat heater switch (B), then remove the switch. 3. Check for continuity in each switch position according to the table. Page 542 Page 1121 Locations 31. Left Side Of Dash Page 791 Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power is disconnected. Normally-open type B: Locations 31. Left Side Of Dash Page 183 Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power is disconnected. Normally-open type B: Page 745 ^ If the OPDS unit has an original part number, go to step 6. ^ If the OPDS unit has a new part number (refer to PARTS INFORMATION) or higher, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE B: OPDS SENSOR REPLACEMENT. 6. Recline the seat-back to access the OPDS unit mounting screws. 7. Remove the mounting screws from the OPDS unit, and gently pull out the unit. On 3.2CLs, first remove the four mounting bolts for the front passenger's seat, and tilt back the seat far enough to clear the center console. 8. Disconnect the electrical connectors, then remove the OPDS unit. 9. Install a new OPDS unit, then snap on its cover. 10. On 3.2CLs, reinstall the front passenger seat mounting bolts. Torque the bolts to 34 N~m (25 lb-ft). 11. Slip the seat-back cover over the OPDS unit. 12. On 3.2CLs, MDXs, and 3.2TLs, check the attachment bosses for the clips: ^ If the attachment bosses are OK, go to step 13. ^ If the attachment bosses are deformed or damaged, do the repair procedure in S/B 02-006, Seat-Back Panel Is Loose or Detached. Then go to step 13. Page 673 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Diagnostic Aids Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Page 1135 Page 91 Keyless Entry Module: Testing and Inspection Control Unit Input Test 1. Before testing, troubleshoot the multiplex control system. 2. Remove the dashboard lower cover. 3. Disconnect the under-dash fuse/relay box connectors. NOTE: All connectors are wire side of female terminals. 4. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals are OK, go to step 5. Locations 46. Under Left Side Of Dash Page 1044 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. Page 386 Page 1038 Key Reminder Switch: Diagnostic Aids Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Page 312 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. Page 597 Page 157 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. Page 129 Radiator Cooling Fan Control Module: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System How to Identify Connector Terminals Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they're in. The cavities are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown above is #6. Page 354 206. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Locations 85. Middle Of Floor Page 746 13. On all models except RSXs, install new clips in the seat-back panel. Turn the clips so their retaining tabs are horizontal. 14. On all models except RSXs, reinstall the seat-back panel. 15. On RSXs only, zip the seat-back cover closed. 16. Initialize the OPDS unit. ^ To initialize with the HDS, go to Initializing the OPDS Unit: HDS Method. ^ To initialize with the SCS service connector, go to Initializing the OPDS Unit: Manual Mode. Initializing the OPDS Unit: HDS Method NOTE: Non-Acura seat covers will interfere with the performance of the OPDS and are not recommended. 1. Adjust the front passenger 5 seat-back to an upright position, then remove anything on or near the seat. 2. Turn the ignition switch to the LOCK (0) position. 3. Connect the HDS to the vehicle's DLC (data link connector). 4. Turn the ignition switch to the ON (II) position, then turn on the HDS. 5. At the screen prompts, enter the VIN and the odometer reading. Also verify the correct date and time. 6. From the System Selection menu, select SRS. 7. From the Mode menu, select Miscellaneous Test. 8. From the Miscellaneous Test menu, select OPDS 9. Follow the remaining screen prompts to complete the OPDS initialization. If the initialization fails repeat the process two more times. If the initialization fails again, check for set SRS DTCs, then troubleshoot them using the appropriate service manual. Initializing the OPDS Unit: Manual Mode NOTE: Non-Acura seat covers will interfere with the performance of the OPDS and are not recommended. Specifications Camshaft Position Sensor: Specifications Locations Headlamp Relay: Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Engine Compartment Page 74 General Module: Diagnostic Aids How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. Page 308 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 385 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 811 47. Security Hood Switch Page 223 Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power is disconnected. Normally-open type B: Page 530 Page 689 1. Remove the terminal 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL TERMINALS. Page 205 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Engine Compartment Page 810 7. Front Of Engine Compartment Page 1079 135. Brake Pedal Position Switch Page 377 Page 829 Door Lock Cylinder Switch: Diagrams 107. Door Key Cylinder Switch, Driver's 109. Door Lock Switch, Driver's Page 389 Page 509 Powertrain Control Module: Service and Repair Final Procedure NOTE: This is the only information provided by the manufacturer for clearing diagnostic trouble codes. How to Reset the ECM/PCM You can reset the ECM/PCM in either of two ways: - Use the OBD II scan tool or Honda PGM Tester to clear the ECM/PCM memory. See the OBD II scan tool or Honda PGM Tester user's manuals for specific instructions. - Turn the ignition switch OFF, and remove the No.6 ECU (ECM/PCM) (15 A) fuse (A) from the under-hood fuse/relay box (B) for 10 seconds. How to End a Troubleshooting Session (required after any troubleshooting) 1. Reset the ECM/PCM as described above. 2. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 3. Disconnect the OBD II scan tool or Honda PGM Tester from the DLC. NOTE: The ECM/PCM is part of the immobilizer system. If you replace the ECM/PCM, it will have a different immobilizer code. In order for the engine to start, you must rewrite the immobilizer code with the Honda PGM Tester. Page 260 Blower Motor Relay Rear Window Defogger Relay Rear BOSE Stereo Amplifier Relay Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.3 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.2 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.3 terminals when power is disconnected. Five-terminal type: Page 269 Interior Lighting Module: Diagram Information and Instructions Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 793 Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.5 terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.4 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 409 1. Remove the terminal 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL TERMINALS. Locations 39. In Steering Column Cover Locations Brake Light Switch: Locations 46. Under Left Side Of Dash Page 417 Body Control Module: Diagnostic Aids Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 1171 Camshaft Position Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index VTEC/VTC - Component Location Index Page 280 Page 160 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. Page 35 Page 184 Blower Motor Relay Rear Window Defogger Relay Rear BOSE Stereo Amplifier Relay Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.3 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.2 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.3 terminals when power is disconnected. Five-terminal type: Page 428 Page 425 Page 529 Page 611 Page 1149 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. Page 356 207. Under-hood Fuse/relay Box Page 381 Page 317 Interior Lighting Module: Diagnostic Aids Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 658 Page 665 Page 749 14. Turn the ignition switch to the ON (II) position. 15. Watch the SRS indicator. (It comes on for about 6 seconds and then goes off.) Disconnect the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds after the indicator goes off. 16. When the SRS indicator comes on again, connect the SCS service connector to the MES connector within 4 seconds after the indicator comes on. 17. When the SRS indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds. (The SRS indicator blinks twice to indicate that the memory has been cleared.) 18. Turn the ignition switch to the LOCK (0) position, and wait for 10 seconds. 19. Turn the ignition switch to the ON (II) position. (The SRS is OK if the SRS indicator comes on for 6 seconds and then goes off.) If the DTC Page 432 Page 636 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Page 152 Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Page 318 Interior Lighting Module: Electrical Diagrams Diagram 115-0 Page 444 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 174 Radiator Cooling Fan Control Module: Diagnostic Aids Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures Page 702 Blower Motor Relay Rear Window Defogger Relay Rear BOSE Stereo Amplifier Relay Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.3 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.2 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.3 terminals when power is disconnected. Five-terminal type: Page 571 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Description and Operation PGM-FI Main Relay 1 and 2 The PGM-FI relay consists of two separate relays. The PGM-FI main relay 1 is energized whenever the ignition switch is ON (II) to supply battery voltage to the ECM/ PCM, power to the injectors, and power for PGM-FI main relay 2. The PGM-FI main relay 2 is energized to supply power to the fuel pump for 2 seconds when the ignition switch is turned ON (II), and when the engine is running. Locations 68. Behind Glove Box Page 998 Fuel Gauge Sender: Description and Operation How the Circuit Works The indicators are controlled by relative conditions in their associated systems. For the following indicators the information supplied to the gauge assembly is received via the multiplex control unit: - Charging System - Door/Hatch Indicator Light - Maintenance Required Indicator - Seat Belt Reminder Fuel Gauge and Low Fuel Indicator Light WARNING: Do not smoke while working on the fuel system. Keep open flame away from the work area. Drain fuel only into an approved container. The fuel gauge and low fuel indicator light are controlled by the CPU built-in the gauge assembly. The CPU receives fuel level information from the fuel gauge sending unit. The fuel gauge sending unit's resistance varies from about 11 - 13 ohms at full to about 130 - 132 ohms at empty. The fuel level signals current changes with the varying resistance, which enables the CPU to determine the level of the fuel. When the CPU determines that the fuel level is low, it turns the low fuel indicator light on. When you turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), the gauge returns to the bottom of the gauge dial regardless of the fuel level. Page 23 138. Rear Stereo Amplifier Relay (Bose) Page 821 Trunk/Liftgate Sensor/Switch (For Alarm): Testing and Inspection Security Hatch Lock Knob Switch Test 1. Open the hatch, and remove the hatch lower trim. 2. Disconnect the 3P connector (A) from the security hatch lock knob switch (B). 3. Use the driver's door lock switch to unlock and lock the hatch, then check for continuity between the No. 2 and No.3 terminals. - There should be continuity when the hatch is unlocked. - There should be no continuity when the hatch is locked. Page 161 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. Page 1013 Key Reminder Switch: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System How to Identify Connector Terminals Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they're in. The cavities are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown above is #6. Page 732 Clear the DTC with the HDS. ^ If DTC 15-1 does not set again, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. ^ If DTC 15-1 sets again, continue with normal troubleshooting. If the OPDS unit causes DTC 15-1 to set repeatedly, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT SRS DTC 15-2 1. Inspect the connections and the wiring in the side airbag cutoff indicator circuit. ^ If all the connections and the wiring are OK, go to step 2. ^ If any of the connections or the wiring are faulty, repair the circuit, then go to step 2. 2. Clear the DTC with the HDS. ^ If DTC 15-2 does not set again, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. ^ If DTC 15-2 sets again, continue with normal troubleshooting. If the OPDS unit causes DTC 15-2 to set repeatedly, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. SRS DTC 15-3 1. Clear the DIG with the HDS. 2. Check for the DIG again. ^ If the code 15-3 does not set, go to step 3. ^ If the code sets again, go to step 4. 3. Ask your client if electrical devices such as a laptop computer or a fluorescent map light are ever used near the front passenger's seat-back. (Some electrical devices that plug into the vehicle's accessory power socket, especially those using a power inverter/converter, can interfere with the seat-back sensors and cause SRS DIG 15-3 to set.) ^ If your client uses any of these devices, operate the device near the front passenger's seat-back. If DTC 15-3 sets again, clear it, then return the vehicle to the client. Advise the client to avoid using the device near the front passenger's seat-back. ^ If your client does not use any of these devices and DTC 15-3 does not set again, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. 4. Proceed with normal troubleshooting. If the OPDS unit causes DIG 15-3 to set repeatedly, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT Page 294 Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Page 898 Wheel Speed Sensor: Testing and Inspection Wheel Sensor Inspection 1. Inspect the front and rear pulsers for chipped or damaged teeth. 2. Measure the air gap between the wheel sensor and pulser all the way around while rotating the pulser. Remove the rear brake disc to measure the gap on the rear wheel sensor. If the gap exceeds 1.0 mm (0.04 inch), check for a bent suspension arm. Page 328 Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.5 terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.4 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 63 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. Page 506 Enable Criteria - ECT at 140°F (60°C) or higher. Procedure 1. Connect the scan tool to the vehicle's data link connector (DLC), and bring up the tool's generic OBD II mode. 2. Start the engine. 3. Test-drive the vehicle under stop-and-go conditions with short periods of steady cruise. During the drive, decelerate (with the throttle fully closed) for 5 seconds. After about 3.5 miles (5.6 km), the readiness code should switch from incomplete to complete. 4. If the readiness code is still set to incomplete, check for a temporary DTC. If there is no DTC, the enable criteria was probably not met; repeat the procedure. Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor Heater Monitor Readiness Code NOTE: All readiness codes are cleared when the battery is disconnected or when the ECM/PCM is cleared with the OBD II scan tool or Honda PGM Tester. Procedure 1. Connect the scan tool to the vehicle's data link connector (DLC), and bring up the tool's generic OBD II mode. 2. Start the engine, and let it idle for 1 minute. The readiness code should switch from incomplete to complete. 3. If the readiness code is still set to incomplete, check for a temporary DTC. If there is no DTC, repeat the procedure. Misfire Monitor and Readiness Code - This readiness code is always set to available because misfiring is continuously monitored. - Monitoring pauses, and the misfire counter resets, if the vehicle is driven over a rough road. - Monitoring also pauses, and the misfire counter holds at its current value, if the throttle position changes more than a predetermined value, or if driving conditions fall outside the range of any related enable criteria. Fuel System Monitor and Readiness Code - This readiness code is always set to available because the fuel system is continuously monitored during closed loop operation. - Monitoring pauses when the catalytic converter, EVAP control system, and A/F sensor monitors are active. - Monitoring also pauses when any related enable criteria are not being met. Monitoring resumes when the enable criteria is again being met. Comprehensive Component Monitor and Readiness Code This readiness code is always set to available because the comprehensive component monitor is continuously running whenever the engine is cranking or running. Page 1045 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. Page 812 Hood Sensor/Switch (For Alarm): Testing and Inspection Hood Switch Test 1. Open the hood, and disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the hood switch (B). 2. Check for continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals. - There should be continuity when the hood is opened (lever released). - There should be no continuity when the hood is closed (lever pushed down). Page 480 Powertrain Control Module: Testing and Inspection How to Reset ECM/PCM NOTE: This is the only information provided by the manufacturer for clearing diagnostic trouble codes. How to Reset the ECM/PCM You can reset the ECM/PCM in either of two ways: - Use the OBD II scan tool or Honda PGM Tester to clear the ECM/PCM memory. See the OBD II scan tool or Honda PGM Tester user's manuals for specific instructions. - Turn the ignition switch OFF, and remove the No.6 ECU (ECM/PCM) (15 A) fuse (A) from the under-hood fuse/relay box (B) for 10 seconds. Page 1122 Page 970 Evaporator Temperature Sensor / Switch: Testing and Inspection Evaporator Temperature Sensor Test 1. Dip the sensor in ice water, and measure the resistance between its terminals. 2. Then pour hot water on the sensor, and check for a change in resistance. 3. Compare the resistance readings with the specifications shown in the graph; the resistance should be within the specifications. Page 803 6. Disconnect the X connector from the under-dash fuse/relay box, and make these input tests at the connector - If all the input tests prove OK, the multiplex control unit must be faulty; replace the under-dash fuse/relay box assembly. Page 338 Blower Motor Relay Rear Window Defogger Relay Rear BOSE Stereo Amplifier Relay Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.3 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.2 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.3 terminals when power is disconnected. Five-terminal type: Page 617 Fuel Pump Relay: Diagnostic Aids Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Page 236 33. Left Side Of Dash How to Replace Connector Terminals Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Diagnostic Aids How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. Page 539 Page 293 Interior Lighting Module: Diagnostic Aids Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Locations 99. Driver's Door (Passenger's Similar) Page 466 203. ECM/PCM Page 561 1. Remove the terminal 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL TERMINALS. Page 206 Compressor Clutch Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type, A: Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power is disconnected. A/C Compressor Clutch Relay Locations Fuel Pump Relay: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Page 682 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. Page 734 ^ If the OPDS unit has an original part number, go to step 6. ^ If the OPDS unit has a new part number (refer to PARTS INFORMATION) or higher, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE B: OPDS SENSOR REPLACEMENT. 6. Recline the seat-back to access the OPDS unit mounting screws. 7. Remove the mounting screws from the OPDS unit, and gently pull out the unit. On 3.2CLs, first remove the four mounting bolts for the front passenger's seat, and tilt back the seat far enough to clear the center console. 8. Disconnect the electrical connectors, then remove the OPDS unit. 9. Install a new OPDS unit, then snap on its cover. 10. On 3.2CLs, reinstall the front passenger seat mounting bolts. Torque the bolts to 34 N~m (25 lb-ft). 11. Slip the seat-back cover over the OPDS unit. 12. On 3.2CLs, MDXs, and 3.2TLs, check the attachment bosses for the clips: ^ If the attachment bosses are OK, go to step 13. ^ If the attachment bosses are deformed or damaged, do the repair procedure in S/B 02-006, Seat-Back Panel Is Loose or Detached. Then go to step 13. Page 478 Powertrain Control Module: Testing and Inspection Known-Good ECM/PCM Substitution ECM/PCM Updating and Substitution for Testing Special Tools Required Honda Interface Module (HIM) - P/N EQS05A35570 Use this procedure when you have to substitute a known-good ECM/PCM in a troubleshooting procedure. Update the ECM/PCM only if the ECM/PCM does not already have the latest software loaded. NOTE: Do not turn the ignition switch OFF while updating the ECM/PCM. If you turn the ignition switch OFF, the ECM/PCM can be damaged. How to Update the ECM/PCM 1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Do not start the engine. 2. Connect the Honda Interface Module (HIM) to the Data Link Connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of dashboard. 3. Do the ECM/PCM update procedure as described on the HIM label and in the ECM/PCM update system. How to Substitute the ECM/PCM 1. Remove the ECM/PCM from the vehicle. 2. Install a known-good ECM/PCM in the vehicle. 3. Rewrite the immobilizer code with the ECM/PCM replacement procedure from the Honda PGM Tester. It allows you to start the engine. 4. After completing your tests, reinstall the original ECM/PCM and rewrite the immobilizer code with the PCM replacement procedure on the Honda PGM Tester again. Page 1089 Combination Switch: Service and Repair Front Parking Lights and Turn Signal Lights Front Parking Lights and Turn Signal Lights: 1. Disconnect the connectors (A) from the light. 2. Turn the bulb socket (B) 45 ° counterclockwise to remove them from the housing. 3. Install the new bulb(s) in the reverse order of removal. Page 477 Powertrain Control Module: Testing and Inspection How to Troubleshoot Circuits at the ECM/PCM How to Troubleshoot Circuits at the ECM/PCM Special Tools Required - Digital Multimeter KS-AHM-32-003 (1) or a commercially available digital multimeter - Backprobe Set 07SAZ-001000A (2) 1. Connect the backprobe adapters (A) to the stacking patch cords (B), and connect the cords to a digital multimeter (C). 2. Using the wire insulation as a guide for the contoured tip of the backprobe adapter, gently slide the tip into the connector from the wire side until it touches the end of the wire terminal. 3. If you cannot get to the wire side of the connector or the wire side is sealed (A), disconnect the connector and probe the terminals (B) from the terminal side. Do not force the probe into the connector. NOTE: Do not puncture the insulation on a wire. Punctures can cause poor or intermittent electrical connections. Page 896 92. Wheel Speed Sensor (except Canada Base), Right Rear Page 135 Page 133 Page 846 Power Door Lock Switch: Testing and Inspection Door Lock Switch Door Lock Switch Test 1. Remove the door panel. 2. Remove the two mounting screws and the door lock switch. 3. Check for continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals: - There should be continuity when the door lock switch is in the LOCKED position. - There should be no continuity when the door lock switch is in the UNLOCKED position. 4. Check for continuity between the No.2 and No.3 terminals: - There should be continuity when the door lock switch is in the UNLOCKED position. - There should be no continuity when the door lock switch is in the LOCKED position. 5. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the door lock switch. Page 198 Blower Motor Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: See the turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type, A: Page 289 Page 170 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. Page 630 1. Remove the terminal 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL TERMINALS. Locations 68. Behind Glove Box Page 615 Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Page 147 Page 600 Page 44 Page 1032 Page 983 Solar Sensor: Testing and Inspection Sunlight Sensor Test Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Measure the voltage between the terminals with the (+) probe on the No.1 terminal and the (-) probe on the No.2 terminal with the 2P connector connected. The voltage will not change under the light of a flashlight or a fluorescent lamp. Voltage should be: - 3.6 - 3.7 V or more with the sensor out of direct sunlight. - 3.3 - 3.5 V or less with the sensor in direct sunlight. Page 743 Clear the DTC with the HDS. ^ If DTC 15-1 does not set again, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. ^ If DTC 15-1 sets again, continue with normal troubleshooting. If the OPDS unit causes DTC 15-1 to set repeatedly, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT SRS DTC 15-2 1. Inspect the connections and the wiring in the side airbag cutoff indicator circuit. ^ If all the connections and the wiring are OK, go to step 2. ^ If any of the connections or the wiring are faulty, repair the circuit, then go to step 2. 2. Clear the DTC with the HDS. ^ If DTC 15-2 does not set again, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. ^ If DTC 15-2 sets again, continue with normal troubleshooting. If the OPDS unit causes DTC 15-2 to set repeatedly, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. SRS DTC 15-3 1. Clear the DIG with the HDS. 2. Check for the DIG again. ^ If the code 15-3 does not set, go to step 3. ^ If the code sets again, go to step 4. 3. Ask your client if electrical devices such as a laptop computer or a fluorescent map light are ever used near the front passenger's seat-back. (Some electrical devices that plug into the vehicle's accessory power socket, especially those using a power inverter/converter, can interfere with the seat-back sensors and cause SRS DIG 15-3 to set.) ^ If your client uses any of these devices, operate the device near the front passenger's seat-back. If DTC 15-3 sets again, clear it, then return the vehicle to the client. Advise the client to avoid using the device near the front passenger's seat-back. ^ If your client does not use any of these devices and DTC 15-3 does not set again, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. 4. Proceed with normal troubleshooting. If the OPDS unit causes DIG 15-3 to set repeatedly, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT Page 259 Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power is disconnected. Normally-open type B: Page 173 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Page 200 Blower Motor Relay Rear Window Defogger Relay Rear BOSE Stereo Amplifier Relay Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.3 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.2 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.3 terminals when power is disconnected. Five-terminal type: Page 640 Fuel Pump Relay: Description and Operation PGM-FI Main Relay 1 and 2 The PGM-FI relay consists of two separate relays. The PGM-FI main relay 1 is energized whenever the ignition switch is ON (II) to supply battery voltage to the ECM/ PCM, power to the injectors, and power for PGM-FI main relay 2. The PGM-FI main relay 2 is energized to supply power to the fuel pump for 2 seconds when the ignition switch is turned ON (II), and when the engine is running. Page 398 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 565 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Diagnostic Aids How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. Page 949 Oil Pressure Sender: Testing and Inspection Oil Pressure Switch Test 1. Remove the YEL/RED wire (A) from the engine oil pressure switch (B). 2. Check for continuity between the positive terminal (C) and the engine (ground). There should be continuity with the engine stopped. There should be no continuity with the engine running. 3. If the switch fails to operate, check the engine oil level. If the engine oil level is OK, check the engine oil pressure. If the oil pressure is OK, replace the oil pressure switch. Page 450 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: Component Locations 109. Middle Of Hatch Page 971 Evaporator Temperature Sensor / Switch: Service and Repair Evaporator Temperature Sensor Replacement 1. Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the evaporator temperature sensor (B), then remove the connector clip (C) and wire harness clip (D). Remove the self-tapping screw, and carefully pull out the evaporator temperature. 2. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal. Page 151 Radiator Cooling Fan Control Module: Diagnostic Aids Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Five-Step Troubleshooting Body Control Module: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Page 60 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. Page 274 Page 258 Horn Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: See the turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type, A: Wire Color Abbreviations Page 782 Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.5 terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.4 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 443 Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking voltage drop. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. Page 590 Fuel Pump Relay: Diagram Information and Instructions Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 720 Air Bag Control Module: Description and Operation Occupant Position Detection System (Opds) Supplemental Restraint System OPDS The side airbag system also includes an Occupant Position Detection System (OPDS). This system consists of sensors (G) and a OPDS unit (H) in the front passenger's seat-back. The control unit sends occupant height and position data to the SRS unit. If the SRS unit determines that the front passenger is of small stature (for example, a child) and the front passenger is leaning into the side airbag deployment path, it will automatically disable the airbag. The SRS unit will also disable the airbag when the OPDS detects certain objects on the seat. When the side airbag is disabled, the Side Airbag Cut-off indicator on the instrument panel alerts the driver that the passenger's side airbag will not deploy in a side impact. When the object is removed, or the passenger sits upright, the Side Airbag Cut-off indicator will go off, alerting the driver that the side airbag will deploy in a side impact. Page 85 5. With the connector still disconnected, make these input tests at the connector. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 6 Circuit Schematics Body Control Module: Diagram Information and Instructions Circuit Schematics Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which Page 153 Radiator Cooling Fan Control Module: Diagnostic Aids Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Page 360 Relay Box: Service and Repair Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Removal and Installation SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations, and precautions and procedures in the SRS Section before performing repairs or service. Removal 1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons. 2. Disconnect the battery negative cable, then disconnect the positive cable, and wait at least three minutes. 3. Remove the dashboard lower cover. 4. Disconnect the connectors from the fuse side of the under-dash fuse/relay box. 5. Remove the mounting bolt and slide the underdash fuse/relay box (A) down from the bracket (B). 6. Disconnect the connectors from the back of the under-dash fuse/relay box, and remove the fuse/ relay box. NOTE: The SRS connector is a spring-loaded lock type. Installation 1. Install the under-dash fuse/relay box in the reverse order of removal and connect all connectors to the under-dash fuse/relay box. 2. Install the dashboard lower cover. 3. Connect both the negative cable and positive cable to the battery. 4. Enter the anti-theft code for the radio, then enter the customer's radio station presets. 5. Confirm that all systems work properly. Page 482 Powertrain Control Module: Testing and Inspection How to Set Readiness Codes How to Set Readiness Codes Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Indication (In relation to Readiness Codes) The vehicle has certain "readiness codes" that are part of the on-board diagnostics for the emissions Systems. If the vehicle's battery has been disconnected or gone dead, if the DTCs have been cleared, or if the ECM/PCM has been reset, these codes are reset. In some states, part of the emissions testing is to make sure these codes are set to complete. If all of them are not set to complete, the vehicle may fail the emission test, or the test cannot be finished. To check if the readiness codes are complete, turn the ignition switch ON (II), but do not start the engine. The MIL will come on for 15-20 seconds. If it then goes off, the readiness codes are complete. If it blinks several times, one or more readiness codes are not complete. To set readiness codes from incomplete to complete, do the procedure for the appropriate code. Catalytic Converter Monitor and Readiness Code NOTES: - Do not turn the ignition switch off during the procedure. - All readiness codes are cleared when the battery is disconnected or when the ECM/PCM is cleared with the OBD II scan tool or Honda PGM Tester. - Low ambient temperatures or excessive stop-and-go traffic may increase the drive time needed to switch the readiness code from incomplete to complete. - The readiness code will not switch to complete until all the enable criteria are met. - If a fault in the secondary HO2S system caused the MIL to come on, the readiness code cannot be set to complete until you correct the fault. Enable Criteria: - ECT at 158°F (70°C) or higher. - Intake air temperature (IAT) at 2O°F (-7°C) or higher. - Vehicle speed is steady, and vehicle speed sensor (VSS) reads more then 25 mph (40 km/h). Procedure 1. Connect the scan tool to the vehicle's data link connector (DLC), and bring up the tool's generic OBD II mode. 2. Start the engine. 3. Test-drive the vehicle under stop-and-go conditions with short periods of steady cruise. After about 5 miles (8 km), the readiness code should switch from incomplete to complete. 4. If the readiness code is still set to incomplete, check for a temporary DTC. If there is no DTC, one or more of the enable criteria were probably not met; repeat the procedure. Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) Control System Monitor and Readiness code NOTES: - All readiness code are cleared when the battery is disconnected or when the ECM/PCM is cleared with the OBD II scan tool or Honda PGM Tester. - The enable criteria must be repeated if the intake air temperature (IAT) drops lower then 36^F (20^C) from its value at engine start up. Enable Criteria - At engine start up, ECT and IAT are higher then 32°F (0°C), but lower then 95°F (35°C). - At engine start up, the ECT and AT are within 12°F (7°C) of each other. Procedure 1. Connect the scan tool to the vehicle's data link connector (DLC), and bring up the tool's generic OBD II mode. 2. Start the engine. 3. Test-drive the vehicle under stop-and-go conditions with short periods of steady cruise. After about 2.5 miles (4.0 km), the readiness code should switch from incomplete to complete. 4. If the readiness code is still set to incomplete, check for a temporary DTC. If there is no DTC, one or more of the enable criteria were probably not met; repeat the procedure. Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor Monitor and Readiness Code NOTE: - Do not turn the ignition switch off during the procedure. - All readiness codes are cleared when the battery is disconnected or when the ECM/PCM is cleared with the OBD II scan tool or Honda PGM Tester. Page 614 Fuel Pump Relay: Diagnostic Aids Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Page 350 Fuse To Components Index Image 50 Page 39 Page 66 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 352 206. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 47 Five-Step Troubleshooting Radiator Cooling Fan Control Module: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Page 851 Power Mirror Switch: Testing and Inspection Power Mirror Switch Test/ Replacement 1. Carefully pry out the driver's switch panel. 2. Disconnect the 13P connector (A) from the power mirror switch (B). 3. Remove the two screws and the switch. 4. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. 5. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the switch. Page 393 Body Control Module: Diagnostic Aids Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Page 339 Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.5 terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.4 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 560 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 657 Page 65 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: Page 1026 Page 1058 Key Reminder Switch: Diagnostic Aids Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures Page 843 110. Door Lock Switch, Passenger's Page 523 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System How to Identify Connector Terminals Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they're in. The cavities are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown above is #6. Page 231 4. Make these input tests at the connector. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK. the control unit must be faulty; replace it. Page 1010 shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Page 1049 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: Locations Horn Component Location Index Page 773 147. A/T Reverse And Shift Lock Relay Page 453 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: Page 748 6. From the Select Mode screen, select SCS, and follow the screen prompts.Connect the SCS service connector to the 2P MES (memory erase signal) connector, as shown. Do not use a jumper wire. (On 3.5RLs, this step requires two SCS service connectors.) 7. Turn the ignition switch to the ON (II) position. 8. Watch the SRS indicator. (It comes on for about 6 seconds and then goes off.) Disconnect the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds after the indicator goes off. 9. When the SRS indicator comes on again, connect the SCS service connector to the MES connector within 4 seconds after the indicator comes on. 10. When the SRS indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds. 11. Watch the SRS indicator: ^ If the indicator blinks twice and then goes off, the OPDS is initialized. Turn the ignition switch to the LOCK (0) position, and disconnect the HDS (all models except 3.5RLs), or disconnect the SCS service connector from the 2P service check connector (3.5RLs). ^ If the indicator blinks twice and then stays on, the OPDS is initialized, but SRS DTCs need to be cleared. Go to step 13. ^ If the indicator stays on without first blinking, the OPDS is not initialized. Repeat steps 3 thru 12. 12. Turn the ignition switch to the LOCK (0) position, then disconnect the HDS. 13. Reconnect the SCS service connector to the MES connector. Do not use a jumper wire. Page 230 Daytime Running Lamp Control Unit: Testing and Inspection Daytime Running Lights Control Unit Input Test (Canada) 1. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover. 2. Disconnect the 14P connector (A) from the daytime running lights control unit (B). 3. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, go to step 4. Page 1022 Page 522 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Diagram Information and Instructions Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Page 510 Powertrain Control Module: Service and Repair Updating ECM/PCM ECM/PCM Updating and Substitution for Testing Special Tools Required Honda Interface Module (HIM) - P/N EQS05A35570 Use this procedure when you have to substitute a known-good ECM/PCM in a troubleshooting procedure. Update the ECM/PCM only if the ECM/PCM does not already have the latest software loaded. NOTE: Do not turn the ignition switch OFF while updating the ECM/PCM. If you turn the ignition switch OFF, the ECM/PCM can be damaged. How to Update the ECM/PCM 1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Do not start the engine. 2. Connect the Honda Interface Module (HIM) to the Data Link Connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of dashboard. 3. Do the ECM/PCM update procedure as described on the HIM label and in the ECM/PCM update system. How to Substitute the ECM/PCM 1. Remove the ECM/PCM from the vehicle. 2. Install a known-good ECM/PCM in the vehicle. 3. Rewrite the immobilizer code with the ECM/PCM replacement procedure from the Honda PGM Tester. It allows you to start the engine. 4. After completing your tests, reinstall the original ECM/PCM and rewrite the immobilizer code with the PCM replacement procedure on the Honda PGM Tester again. Page 768 Blower Motor Relay Rear Window Defogger Relay Rear BOSE Stereo Amplifier Relay Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.3 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.2 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.3 terminals when power is disconnected. Five-terminal type: Page 540 Page 494 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector E (31P) Part 2 Page 105 Seat Heater Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type, A: Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power is disconnected. Seat Heater Relay (Canada) Page 72 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the above mentioned NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. Page 692 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. Page 1048 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 140 Page 287 Page 918 Radiator Cooling Fan Temperature Sensor / Switch: Testing and Inspection Radiator Fan Switch Test Test NOTE: Bleed air from the cooling system after installing the radiator fan switch. 1. Remove the radiator fan switch from the radiator. 2. Suspend the radiator fan switch (A) in a container of water as shown. 3. Heat the water, and check the temperature with a thermometer. Do not let the thermometer (B) touch the bottom of the hot container. 4. Measure the continuity between terminal No.1 and terminal No.2 according to the table. Page 271 Interior Lighting Module: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System How to Identify Connector Terminals Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they're in. The cavities are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown above is #6. Page 694 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. Page 309 1. Remove the terminal 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL TERMINALS. Page 104 146. A/F Sensor Relay And Seat Heater Relay (Canada) Page 463 Powertrain Control Module: Diagnostic Aids Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 113 Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.5 terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.4 terminals when power is disconnected. Locations Entry Light Control System Component Location Index Page 685 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 572 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: See the turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type, A: Locations 22. Left Side Of Engine Compartment Page 816 Lock Cylinder Switch: Testing and Inspection Door Key Cylinder Switch Test 1. Remove the door panel. 2. Disconnect the 3P connector from the key cylinder switch. 3. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.2 and No.3 terminals when the door key cylinder switch is in the LOCK position. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when the door key cylinder switch is in the UNLOCK position. Circuit Schematics Fuel Pump Relay: Diagram Information and Instructions Circuit Schematics Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which Page 876 30. Brake Fluid Level Switch Page 192 Part 2 3. With the 14P connector disconnected, make these input tests. 4. If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. If all the input tests prove OK, the control unit must be faulty; replace it. Page 414 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. Page 455 1. Remove the terminal 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL TERMINALS. Page 167 1. Remove the terminal 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL TERMINALS. Page 626 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 320 Interior Lighting Module: Testing and Inspection Control Unit Input Test 1. Before testing, troubleshoot the multiplex control system. 2. Remove the dashboard lower cover. 3. Disconnect the under-dash fuse/relay box connectors. NOTE: All connectors are wire side of female terminals. 4. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, go to step 5. 5. With the connectors still disconnected, make this input test at the connector. - If the test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If the input test proves OK, go to step 6. Page 545 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Diagnostic Aids Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Page 1093 Door Switch: Diagrams 5. Door Switch, Driver's 6. Door Switch, Passenger's Page 32 General Module: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System How to Identify Connector Terminals Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they're in. The cavities are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown above is #6. Wire Color Abbreviations Wire Color Abbreviations Page 850 182. Power Mirror Switch Page 585 Fuel Supply System - Component Location Index 2 69. Behind Glove Box Page 163 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the secondary locks. How to Remove the ECM/PCM For Testing Powertrain Control Module: Service and Repair How to Remove the ECM/PCM For Testing How to Remove the ECM/PCM for Testing If the inspection for a trouble code requires voltage or resistance checks at the ECM/PCM connectors, remove the ECM/PCM and test it: 1. Remove the passenger's dashboard lower cover (A). 2. Remove the ECM/PCM mounting bolts (B) and the ECM/PCM (C). Page 869 110. Middle Of Hatch Page 932 33. Clutch Pedal Position Switch (M/T) Page 984 Solar Sensor: Service and Repair Sunlight Sensor Replacement 1. Remove the sunlight sensor from the dashboard, then disconnect the 2P connector. Be careful not to damage the sensor and the dashboard. 2. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal. Page 687 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: Page 110 Sunroof/Moonroof Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: See the turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type, A: Page 638 Fuel Pump Relay: Diagnostic Aids Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 691 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the above mentioned NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. Page 649 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Diagram Information and Instructions Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 676 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Diagnostic Aids Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Page 286 Page 738 14. Turn the ignition switch to the ON (II) position. 15. Watch the SRS indicator. (It comes on for about 6 seconds and then goes off.) Disconnect the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds after the indicator goes off. 16. When the SRS indicator comes on again, connect the SCS service connector to the MES connector within 4 seconds after the indicator comes on. 17. When the SRS indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds. (The SRS indicator blinks twice to indicate that the memory has been cleared.) 18. Turn the ignition switch to the LOCK (0) position, and wait for 10 seconds. 19. Turn the ignition switch to the ON (II) position. (The SRS is OK if the SRS indicator comes on for 6 seconds and then goes off.) If the DTC Page 353 206. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 1002 Fuel Gauge Sender: Service and Repair Fuel Pump/Fuel Gauge Sending Unit Replacement Special Tools Required Fuel sender ring wrench 07XAA-001010A 1. Relieve the fuel pressure. 2. Remove the fuel fill cap. 3. Remove the rear seat cushion. 4. Remove the access panel (A) from the floor. 5. Disconnect the fuel pump 5P connector (B). 6. Disconnect the quick-connect fitting (C) from the fuel tank unit. 7. Using the tool, loosen the fuel tank unit locknut (A). Page 778 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Engine Compartment 06-008 Seat Occupant Classification Module - Air Bag: Recalls Campaign - Occupant Detection Unit Warranty Extension 06-008 February 5, 2008 Applies To: SEE VEHICLES AFFECTED Warranty Extension: OPDS Unit or OPDS Sensor Triggers SRS DTC(s) 15-1,15-2,15-3 (Supersedes 06-008, dated March 22, 2006, to update the information marked by asterisks. Replaces 02-034, SRS Indicator Comes on with SRS DTC(s) 15-1, 15-2, 15-3, dated April 23, 2004) BACKGROUND *NOTE: Because of a class action settlement, the warranty extension coverage for the OPDS unit and the OPDS sensor on 2002-03 3.2CLs, 2002 MDXs, 2002-04 3.5RLs, 2002-04 RSXs, and 2002-03 3.2TLs purchased or leased between April 13, 2002, and November 7, 2006, is now 10 years or 157,500 miles, whichever occurs first. For more information, refer to Service Bulletin 06-050, Warranty Extension: Vehicle Warranty Mileage.* Several vehicle models may have a problem with the OPDS (occupant position detection system) that causes the SRS indicator to stay on. Typically, one or more of these DTCs will be set: ^ SRS DTC 15-1 (faulty OPDS unit or OPDS not initialized) ^ SRS DTC 15-2 (faulty side airbag indicator circuit) ^ SRS DTC 15-3 (faulty OPDS sensor) To ensure continued reliability with the OPDS, American Honda is extending the warranty on the OPDS unit and the OPDS sensor to 10 years or 150,000 miles, whichever occurs first. This warranty extension does not apply to any vehicle that has ever been declared a total loss, or any that has been issued a salvage, branded, or similar title under any state's law. To check for vehicle eligibility, you must do a VIN status inquiry VEHICLES AFFECTED CLIENT NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles were mailed a notification of this warranty extension. An example of the notification is at the end of this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Repair the vehicle as indicated by the INSPECTION PROCEDURE. If needed, replace the OPDS unit. In rare cases where an updated OPDS unit was already installed, replace the OPDS sensor. PARTS INFORMATION Page 559 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: Wire Color Abbreviations Page 528 Page 1061 Key Reminder Switch: Electrical Diagrams Lights-on, Key-in, And Seat Belt Reminders, Key Lights Timer and Low Oil Pressure Indicator Image 73 Page 625 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: Page 599 Page 15 Alarm Module: Diagrams 170. Immobilizer Control Unit-Receiver 204. Security Control Unit Page 139 Page 838 Hood Sensor/Switch (For Alarm): Testing and Inspection Hood Switch Test 1. Open the hood, and disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the hood switch (B). 2. Check for continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals. - There should be continuity when the hood is opened (lever released). - There should be no continuity when the hood is closed (lever pushed down). Locations 55. Behind Climate Control Unit Page 1054 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. Page 948 10. Oil Pressure Switch Locations 36. Inside Of Steering Wheel Page 29 shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Page 1097 213. Fog Light Switch (Acura Accessory) Locations Seat Heater Relay: Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Part 2 Page 369 Body Control Module: Diagram Information and Instructions Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 376 Page 864 Sunroof / Moonroof Switch: Service and Repair Switch Test/Replacement 1. Carefully pry out the driver's switch panel. 2. Disconnect the 6P connector (A) from the moonroof switch (B), then remove the switch. 3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. 4. If necessary, check the illumination bulbs (C). Page 739 clearing fails, repeat the process two more times. If the DTC clearing fails again, check for set SRS DTCs, and troubleshoot them with the appropriate service manual. REPAIR PROCEDURE B: OPDS SENSOR REPLACEMENT 1. Remove the seat-back cover from the front passenger's seat: ^ Using the appropriate service manual, go to section 20 (Body), and do the removal steps under Front Seat Cover Replacement, or ^ Online, enter keyword SEAT COVER, then select Front Seat Cover Replacement from the list, and do the removal steps in the procedure. 2. Slide the seat-back cushion (foam) off the seat-back frame. (The OPDS sensor is built into the seat-back cushion.) 3. Slide a new seat-back cushion over the seat-back frame. Make sure the cushion is centered. 4. Reinstall the seat-back cover: ^ Using the appropriate service manual, go to section 20 (Body), and do the installation step under Front Seat Cover Replacement, or ^ Online, enter keyword SEAT COVER, then select Front Seat Cover Replacement from the list, and do the installation step in the procedure. 5. Reinitialize the OPDS unit: ^ To reinitialize with the HDS, go to Initializing the OPDS Unit: HDS Method in this service bulletin. ^ To reinitialize with the SCS service connector, go to Initializing the OPDS Unit: Manual Mode in this service bulletin. Disclaimer Page 570 154. PGM-FI Main Relays 1 And 2, Shift Lock Diode (A/T) Page 251 Headlamp Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: See the turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type, A: Locations 85. Middle Of Floor Page 1040 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Circuit Schematics Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Diagram Information and Instructions Circuit Schematics Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which Page 388 Page 305 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 254 Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.5 terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.4 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 893 Wheel Speed Sensor: Connector Locations 112. Right Front Of Cargo Area (except Canada Base) 122. Transmission Housing Page 757 Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power is disconnected. Normally-open type B: Page 132 Page 550 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 457 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the above mentioned NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. Page 304 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: Page 648 shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Page 1151 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: Page 1027 Page 467 Powertrain Control Module: Connector Views ECM/PCM Inputs and Outputs ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector A (31P) - Part 1 Page 1154 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: Page 1080 Brake Light Switch: Testing and Inspection Brake Pedal Position Switch Test 1. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover. 2. Disconnect the 4P connector (A) from the brake pedal position switch (B). 3. Check for continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals. - There should be continuity when the brake pedal is pressed. - There should be no continuity when the brake pedal is released. 4. Check for continuity between the No.3 and No.4 terminals (with cruise control). - There should be no continuity when the brake pedal is pressed. - There should be continuity when the brake pedal is released. 5. If necessary, adjust or replace the switch, or adjust the pedal height. Page 955 56. Outside Air Temperature Sensor Page 435 74. Under Right Side Of Dash Circuit Schematics Interior Lighting Module: Diagram Information and Instructions Circuit Schematics Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which Page 555 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. Page 999 Fuel Gauge Sender: Testing and Inspection Fuel Gauge Sending Unit Test Special Tools Required Fuel sender wrench 07XAA-001010A NOTE: For the fuel gauge system circuit diagram, refer to the Gauges Circuit Diagram. 1. Check the No.10 METER (75A) fuse in the under- dash fuse/relay box before testing. 2. Do the gauge drive circuit check. - If the fuel gauge needle sweeps from the minimum to maximum position and then returns to the minimum position, the gauge is OK. Go to step 3. - If the fuel gauge needle does not sweep from the minimum to maximum position position and then returns to the minimum position, replace the gauge assembly and retest. 3. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 4. Remove the rear seat cushion. 5. Remove the access panel (A) from the floor. 6. Disconnect the fuel pump 5P connector (B). 7. Measure voltage between the fuel pump 5P connector terminals No.1 and No.2 with the ignition switch ON (II). There should be battery voltage. - If the voltage is as specified, go to step 8. - If the voltage is not as specified, check for: an open in the YEL/BLK or BLK wire. - poor ground (G552). 8. Turn the ignition switch OFF. Remove the No.9 BACK UP (7.5A) fuse from the under-hood fuse/relay box for at least 10 seconds, and reinstall it. Page 313 Interior Lighting Module: Diagnostic Aids How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. Page 663 Page 469 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector B (24P) - Part 1 Page 282 Page 252 Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power is disconnected. Normally-open type B: Page 415 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Locations Blower Motor Relay: Locations Climate Control Component Location Index Part 2 Page 449 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. Page 171 Radiator Cooling Fan Control Module: Diagnostic Aids How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. Page 310 Interior Lighting Module: Diagnostic Aids How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. Page 1146 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. Page 92 5. With the connector still disconnected, make these input tests at the connector. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 6 Page 41 Page 975 21. A/C Pressure Switch Circuit Schematics Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Diagram Information and Instructions Circuit Schematics Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which How to Replace Connector Terminals Fuel Pump Relay: Diagnostic Aids How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. Page 618 Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking voltage drop. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. Page 136 Page 1003 8. Remove the locknut (A) and the fuel tank unit. 9. Remove the stop (0). Release the hook (P) and remove the fuel filter (B), the fuel gauge sending unit (C), the case (D), the wire harness (E), and the fuel pressure regulator (F). 10. When connecting the fuel tank unit, make sure the connection is secure and the suction filter (G) is firmly connected to the fuel pump (H). 11. Install the fuel tank unit in the reverse order of removal with a new base gasket (I) and new O-rings (J), then check these items: - When connecting the wire harness, make sure the connection is secure and the connector (K) is firmly locked into the place. - When installing the fuel gauge sending unit, make sure the connection is secure and the connector is firmly locked into place. Be careful not to bend or twist it excessively. - When installing the fuel tank unit, align the marks (L) on the fuel tank (M) and the fuel tank unit (N). Page 501 Powertrain Control Module: Service and Repair Known-Good ECM/PCM Substitution ECM/PCM Updating and Substitution for Testing Special Tools Required Honda Interface Module (HIM) - P/N EQS05A35570 Use this procedure when you have to substitute a known-good ECM/PCM in a troubleshooting procedure. Update the ECM/PCM only if the ECM/PCM does not already have the latest software loaded. NOTE: Do not turn the ignition switch OFF while updating the ECM/PCM. If you turn the ignition switch OFF, the ECM/PCM can be damaged. How to Update the ECM/PCM 1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Do not start the engine. 2. Connect the Honda Interface Module (HIM) to the Data Link Connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of dashboard. 3. Do the ECM/PCM update procedure as described on the HIM label and in the ECM/PCM update system. How to Substitute the ECM/PCM 1. Remove the ECM/PCM from the vehicle. 2. Install a known-good ECM/PCM in the vehicle. 3. Rewrite the immobilizer code with the ECM/PCM replacement procedure from the Honda PGM Tester. It allows you to start the engine. 4. After completing your tests, reinstall the original ECM/PCM and rewrite the immobilizer code with the PCM replacement procedure on the Honda PGM Tester again. Page 650 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Diagram Information and Instructions Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Page 295 Interior Lighting Module: Diagnostic Aids Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Locations Brake Switch (Cruise Control): Locations Cruise Control Component Location Index Page 380 Page 56 General Module: Diagnostic Aids Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Page 162 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: Page 93 6. Reconnect all connectors to the under-dash fuse/relay box, and make these input tests at the appropriate connectors on the under-dash fuse/relay box If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, the multiplex control unit must be faulty, replace the under-dash fuse/relay box assembly. Page 758 Blower Motor Relay Rear Window Defogger Relay Rear BOSE Stereo Amplifier Relay Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.3 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.2 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.3 terminals when power is disconnected. Five-terminal type: Page 899 Wheel Speed Sensor: Service and Repair Wheel Sensor Replacement NOTE: Install the sensors carefully to avoid twisting the wires. Page 38 Page 1047 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 913 62. Radiator Fan Switch Page 1050 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 684 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: Page 45 Page 181 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Engine Compartment Page 1164 Air Flow Meter/Sensor: Diagnostic Aids Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Locations Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Locations 15. Left Side Of Engine PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Page 639 154. PGM-FI Main Relay 1 And 2 Page 290 Page 623 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. Page 659 Page 933 Clutch Switch: Testing and Inspection Clutch Pedal Position Switch Test 1. Disconnect the 2P connector from the clutch pedal position switch (A). 2. Remove the clutch pedal position switch. 3. Check for continuity between the terminals according to the table. 4. If necessary, replace the clutch pedal position switch or adjust the pedal height. Page 490 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector B (24P) Page 533 Page 669 Page 111 Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power is disconnected. Normally-open type B: Five-Step Troubleshooting Air Flow Meter/Sensor: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Page 912 134. Front Of Engine Compartment Page 641 Fuel Pump Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type, A: Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power is disconnected. PGM-FI Main Relay 1 & 2 Specifications Fuel Gauge Sender: Specifications Page 486 Powertrain Control Module: Testing and Inspection Final Procedure NOTE: This is the only information provided by the manufacturer for clearing diagnostic trouble codes. How to Reset the ECM/PCM You can reset the ECM/PCM in either of two ways: - Use the OBD II scan tool or Honda PGM Tester to clear the ECM/PCM memory. See the OBD II scan tool or Honda PGM Tester user's manuals for specific instructions. - Turn the ignition switch OFF, and remove the No.6 ECU (ECM/PCM) (15 A) fuse (A) from the under-hood fuse/relay box (B) for 10 seconds. How to End a Troubleshooting Session (required after any troubleshooting) 1. Reset the ECM/PCM as described above. 2. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 3. Disconnect the OBD II scan tool or Honda PGM Tester from the DLC. NOTE: The ECM/PCM is part of the immobilizer system. If you replace the ECM/PCM, it will have a different immobilizer code. In order for the engine to start, you must rewrite the immobilizer code with the Honda PGM Tester. Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Door, Seat And Rear Page 842 Power Door Lock Switch: Diagrams 105. Door Lock Knob Switch, Driver's 106. Door Lock Knob Switch, Passenger's 109. Door Lock Switch, Driver's Page 397 Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking voltage drop. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. Page 109 153. Moonroof Close And Open Relay (except Canada Base) Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box 49. Under Left Side Of Dash Page 413 Body Control Module: Diagnostic Aids How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. Page 99 6. Reconnect all connectors to the under-dash fuse/relay box, and make these input tests at the appropriate connectors on the under-dash fuse/relay box If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, the multiplex control unit must be faulty, replace the under-dash fuse/relay box assembly. Locations Compressor Clutch Relay: Locations Climate Control Component Location Index Part 2 Page 531 Page 495 Powertrain Control Module: Testing and Inspection How to Troubleshoot Circuits at the ECM/PCM How to Troubleshoot Circuits at the ECM/PCM Special Tools Required - Digital Multimeter KS-AHM-32-003 (1) or a commercially available digital multimeter - Backprobe Set 07SAZ-001000A (2) 1. Connect the backprobe adapters (A) to the stacking patch cords (B), and connect the cords to a digital multimeter (C). 2. Using the wire insulation as a guide for the contoured tip of the backprobe adapter, gently slide the tip into the connector from the wire side until it touches the end of the wire terminal. 3. If you cannot get to the wire side of the connector or the wire side is sealed (A), disconnect the connector and probe the terminals (B) from the terminal side. Do not force the probe into the connector. NOTE: Do not puncture the insulation on a wire. Punctures can cause poor or intermittent electrical connections. Page 211 Condenser Fan Motor Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type, A: Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power is disconnected. Condenser Fan Relay Page 856 176. Seat Heater Switch (Canada) Page 683 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. Page 306 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 575 Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.5 terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.4 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 1157 Air Flow Meter/Sensor: Diagnostic Aids How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. Page 508 Enable Criteria - ECT at 140°F (60°C) or higher. Procedure 1. Connect the scan tool to the vehicle's data link connector (DLC), and bring up the tool's generic OBD II mode. 2. Start the engine. 3. Test-drive the vehicle under stop-and-go conditions with short periods of steady cruise. During the drive, decelerate (with the throttle fully closed) for 5 seconds. After about 3.5 miles (5.6 km), the readiness code should switch from incomplete to complete. 4. If the readiness code is still set to incomplete, check for a temporary DTC. If there is no DTC, the enable criteria was probably not met; repeat the procedure. Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor Heater Monitor Readiness Code NOTE: All readiness codes are cleared when the battery is disconnected or when the ECM/PCM is cleared with the OBD II scan tool or Honda PGM Tester. Procedure 1. Connect the scan tool to the vehicle's data link connector (DLC), and bring up the tool's generic OBD II mode. 2. Start the engine, and let it idle for 1 minute. The readiness code should switch from incomplete to complete. 3. If the readiness code is still set to incomplete, check for a temporary DTC. If there is no DTC, repeat the procedure. Misfire Monitor and Readiness Code - This readiness code is always set to available because misfiring is continuously monitored. - Monitoring pauses, and the misfire counter resets, if the vehicle is driven over a rough road. - Monitoring also pauses, and the misfire counter holds at its current value, if the throttle position changes more than a predetermined value, or if driving conditions fall outside the range of any related enable criteria. Fuel System Monitor and Readiness Code - This readiness code is always set to available because the fuel system is continuously monitored during closed loop operation. - Monitoring pauses when the catalytic converter, EVAP control system, and A/F sensor monitors are active. - Monitoring also pauses when any related enable criteria are not being met. Monitoring resumes when the enable criteria is again being met. Comprehensive Component Monitor and Readiness Code This readiness code is always set to available because the comprehensive component monitor is continuously running whenever the engine is cranking or running. Page 355 206. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 602 Page 1074 Backup Lamp Switch: Testing and Inspection Back-Up Light Switch Test 1. Disconnect the back-up light switch (A) connector. 2. Check for continuity between the back-up light switch 2P connector No. 1 and No. 2 terminals. There should be continuity when the shift lever is in reverse. 3. If necessary, replace the back-up light switch. Apply liquid gasket (P/N 08718-0001), and install it on the transmission housing. Page 429 Page 368 shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Cruise Control Main Switch Inspection Cruise Control Switch: Testing and Inspection Cruise Control Main Switch Inspection Main Switch Test/Replacement 1. Gently pry up on the driver's switch panel (A) to release the hooks (B), then pull out the panel. 2. Release the clips, and push the main switch (A) out of the panel, then disconnect the 5P connector (B) from the main switch. 3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. If there is no continuity, check the illumination bulbs (C). If the bulbs are OK, replace the switch. Page 606 Page 725 Air Bag Control Module: Service and Repair Initializing the OPDS (Occupant Position Detection System) Unit Special Tools Required SCS service connector 07PAZ-0010100 When the seat-back cover, seat-back cushion, and/or OPDS unit are replaced, initialize the OPDS system by following the procedure below. NOTE: Make sure the passenger's seat is dry. Set the seat-back in the normal position, and make sure there is nothing on the front passenger's seat. 1. Make sure the ignition switch is OFF. 2. Connect the Honda PGM Tester (A) to the DLC (16P) (B), and follow the Tester's prompts in the "SCS" menu (see the Honda PGM Tester Operator's Manual). 3. Connect the SCS service connector (A) to the MES connector (2P) (B). Do not use a jumper wire. 4. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 5. The SRS indicator comes on for about 6 seconds and goes off. Remove the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds after the SRS indicator went off. 6. The SRS indicator comes on again. Reconnect the SCS service connector to the MES connector within 4 seconds after the SRS indicator comes on. 7. The SRS indicator goes off. Remove the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds. 8. Watch the SRS indicator. - If the indicator blinks two times and then stays on, the OPDS is initialized, but the DTCs need to be erased. Go to step 9, then erase the DTCs. - If the indicator blinks two times and then goes off, the OPDS unit is initialized. Go to step 9. - If the indicator stays on without first blinking, the OPDS is not initialized. Read the DTC, and go to the appropriate page in the DTC Troubleshooting Index. 9. Turn the ignition switch off, and disconnect the PGM Tester. Locations 30. Front Of Engine Compartment Locations 46. Under Left Side Of Dash Page 1024 Page 1068 Parking Brake Warning Switch: Testing and Inspection Parking Brake Switch Test 1. Remove the console, and disconnect the connector (A) from the switch (B). 2. Check for continuity between the positive terminal and body ground: - With the brake lever up, there should be continuity. - With the brake lever down, there should be no continuity. Page 404 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: Page 527 Locations 44. Under Left Side Of Dash Page 1129 Page 897 Wheel Speed Sensor: Description and Operation Wheel Sensors The wheel sensors are the magnetic contactless type. As the gear pulser teeth rotate past the wheel sensor's magnetic coil, AC current is generated. The AC frequency changes in accordance with the wheel speed. The ABS control unit detects the wheel sensor signal frequency and thereby detects the wheel speed. When the wheel speed drops sharply below the vehicle speed, the outlet valve opens momentarily to reduce the caliper fluid pressure. The pump motor starts at this time. As the wheel speed is restored, the inlet valve opens momentarily to increase the caliper fluid pressure. Page 668 Page 828 99. Driver's Door (Passenger's Similar) Page 1106 8. Horn Switch Page 408 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 609 Wire Color Abbreviations Page 80 General Module: Description and Operation How the Circuit Works The conventional portion of the electrical system carries DC (or A/C) power through separate wires to each component. The multiplex portion of the system, however, sends digital signals between control units through shared wires to reduce the number and weight of wire harnesses. The signals from each switch are converted to digital signals within the receiving multiplex control unit. The digital signals are sent from one multiplex control unit to another as serial data over dedicated communication lines. When the appropriate control unit receives the digital signal, it converts it back to a switch signal and operates the related components. The multiplex control system schematic shows it's power, grounds, and communication lines. The ignition key light is also shown because it is used to blink DTCs in the system's self-diagnosis function. The rest of the multiplex control system wiring is shown in the following circuit schematics: - Low Engine Oil Pressure Indicator - Seat Belt Reminder - Lights-on Reminder - Key-in Reminder - Entry Light Control System - Dash and Console Lights (brightness control) - Power Door Locks - Power Windows - Wiper/washers - Keyless/Security Alarm System - Interlock System Page 1107 Horn Switch: Testing and Inspection Horn Switch Test 1. Remove the steering column covers. 2. Disconnect the dashboard wire harness 5P connector (A) from the cable reel (B). 3. Check for continuity between the cable reel No.2 terminal and body ground with the horn switch pushed. There should be continuity. If there is no continuity, go to step 4. 4. Remove the driver's airbag assembly. 5. Disconnect the horn switch positive terminal 1P connector. 6. Check for continuity between the cable reel No.2 terminal (A) and the horn switch positive terminal (8). - If there is no continuity, replace the cable reel. - If there is continuity, the cable reel OK, check the steering wheel. Page 736 1. Adjust the front passenger's seat-back to an upright position, then remove anything that is on or near the seat. 2. Turn the ignition switch to the LOCK (0) position. 3. On all models except 3.5RLs, connect the HDS to the vehicle's DLC (data link connector). Keep the ignition switch in the LOCK (0) position, and turn on the HDS. 4. On 3.5RLs, connect the SCS service connector to the 2P service check connector. Do not use a jumper wire. Refer to page 24-88 of the 1996-01 3.5HL Service Manual for details. Go to step 8. 5. At the screen prompts, enter the VIN and the odometer reading. Locations Ignition Relay: Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dash Board Page 396 Body Control Module: Diagnostic Aids Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Page 678 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 54 General Module: Diagnostic Aids Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Locations Combination Switch: Locations Turn Signal/Hazard Flasher - Component Location Index Page 937 Cruise Control Switch: Diagrams 104. Cruise Control Set/Resume/Cancel Switch (except Canada Base) 149. Cruise Control Main Switch (except Canada Base) How to Replace Connector Terminals Radiator Cooling Fan Control Module: Diagnostic Aids How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. Page 237 150. Rear Accessory Power Socket Relay (USA), DRL Relay (Canada), And Security Horn Relay Page 607 Page 573 Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power is disconnected. Normally-open type B: Page 627 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 798 6. Disconnect the X connector from the under-dash fuse/relay box, and make these input tests at the connector - If all the input tests prove OK, the multiplex control unit must be faulty; replace the under-dash fuse/relay box assembly. Page 526 Page 717 Air Bag Control Module: Vehicle Damage Warnings SRS Unit, Front Sensors and Side Impact Sensors - Be careful not to bump or impact the SRS unit, front sensors or the side impact sensors whenever the ignition switch is ON (II), or for at least 3 minutes after the ignition switch is turned OFF. - During installation or replacement, be careful not to bump (by impact wrench, hammer, etc.) the area around the SRS unit, front sensors, and the side impact sensor. The airbags could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injury. - After a collision in which the airbags were deployed, replace the SRS unit, front sensors, and other related components. After a collision in which a side airbag was deployed, replace the side impact sensor on the deployed side and the SRS unit. After a collision in which the airbags or the side airbags did not deploy, inspect for any damage or any deformation on the SRS unit, front sensors, and the side impact sensors. If there is any damage, replace the SRS unit and/or the side impact sensors. - Do not disassemble the SRS unit or the side impact sensors. - Turn the ignition switch OFF, disconnect the battery negative cable and wait at least 3 minutes before beginning installation or replacement of the SRS unit, or disconnecting the connectors from the SRS unit. - Be sure the SRS unit and side impact sensors are installed securely with the mounting bolts torqued to 9.8 N.m (1.0 kgf.m, 7.2 lbf.ft) - Do not spill water or oil on the SRS unit or the side impact sensors, and keep them away from dust. - Store the SRS unit and the side impact sensors in a cool (less than 104 °F / 40 °C) and dry (less than 80 % relative humidity, no moisture) area. Component Locations 7. Front Of Engine Compartment Locations 32. Left Side Of Dash Page 744 1. On all models except RSXs, remove the front passenger's seat-back panel by prying out the bottom. Replace the seat-back panel lower clips. 2. On RSXs, unzip the two seat cover zippers on the back of the front passenger's seat. 3. Pull back the seat-back cover from the left side bolster to access the OPDS unit cover. 4. Remove the OPDS unit cover from the seat frame. 5. Check the part number of the installed OPDS unit. Page 378 Page 84 Keyless Entry Module: Testing and Inspection Control Unit Input Test 1. Before testing, troubleshoot the multiplex control system. 2. Remove the dashboard lower cover. 3. Disconnect the under-dash fuse/relay box connectors. NOTE: All connectors are wire side of female terminals. 4. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals are OK, go to step 5. Locations 45. Under Left Side Of Dash Component Locations Door Lock Cylinder Switch: Component Locations Doors Component Location Index Page 1059 Key Reminder Switch: Diagnostic Aids Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 7 150. Rear Accessory Power Socket Relay (USA), DRL Relay (Canada), And Security Horn Relay Page 146 Page 424 Page 962 52. In-car Temperature Sensor Page 759 Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.5 terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.4 terminals when power is disconnected. Technician Safety Information Air Bag Control Module: Technician Safety Information Be careful not to bump or impact the SRS unit or the side impact sensors whenever the ignition switch is ON (II), or at least for three minutes after the ignition switch is turned OFF. During installation or replacement, be careful not to bump (by impact wrench, hammer, etc.) the area around the SRS unit and the side impact sensor. The airbags could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injury. After a collision in which the airbags were deployed, replace the SRS unit. After a collision in which the side airbag was deployed, replace the side impact sensor on the side where the side airbag deployed and the SRS unit. After a collision in which the airbags or the side airbags did not deploy, inspect for any damage or any deformation on the SRS unit and the side impact sensors. If there is any damage, replace the SRS unit and/or the side impact sensors. Do not disassemble the SRS unit or the side impact sensors. Turn the ignition switch OFF, disconnect the battery negative cable and wait at least three minutes before beginning installation or replacement of the SRS unit, and disconnect the connectors from the SRS unit. Be sure the SRS unit and side impact sensors are installed securely with the mounting bolts torqued to 9.8 Nm (1.0 kg.m, 7.2 lb.ft) Do not spill water or oil on the SRS unit or the side impact sensors and keep them away from dust. Store the SRS unit and the side impact sensors in a cool (less than 104°F / 40°C) and dry (less than 80% relative humidity, no moisture) area. Page 349 Relay Box: Connector Locations Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Connector To Fuse/Relay Box Index Image 48 Page 1021 Page 536 Testing and Inspection Power Distribution Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: See the turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type, A: Page 968 41. Evaporator Temperature Sensor Page 500 Powertrain Control Module: Service and Repair How to Remove the ECM/PCM For Testing How to Remove the ECM/PCM for Testing If the inspection for a trouble code requires voltage or resistance checks at the ECM/PCM connectors, remove the ECM/PCM and test it: 1. Remove the passenger's dashboard lower cover (A). 2. Remove the ECM/PCM mounting bolts (B) and the ECM/PCM (C). Page 69 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 1118 Air Flow Meter/Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System How to Identify Connector Terminals Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they're in. The cavities are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown above is #6. How to Replace Connector Terminals General Module: Diagnostic Aids How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. Page 49 Page 651 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System How to Identify Connector Terminals Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they're in. The cavities are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown above is #6. Page 1101 174. Hazard Warning Switch Page 677 Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking voltage drop. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. Page 1159 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. Page 1019 Component Locations 7. Front Of Engine Compartment Locations 60. Under Middle Of Dash Page 1153 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 1025 Page 735 13. On all models except RSXs, install new clips in the seat-back panel. Turn the clips so their retaining tabs are horizontal. 14. On all models except RSXs, reinstall the seat-back panel. 15. On RSXs only, zip the seat-back cover closed. 16. Initialize the OPDS unit. ^ To initialize with the HDS, go to Initializing the OPDS Unit: HDS Method. ^ To initialize with the SCS service connector, go to Initializing the OPDS Unit: Manual Mode. Initializing the OPDS Unit: HDS Method NOTE: Non-Acura seat covers will interfere with the performance of the OPDS and are not recommended. 1. Adjust the front passenger 5 seat-back to an upright position, then remove anything on or near the seat. 2. Turn the ignition switch to the LOCK (0) position. 3. Connect the HDS to the vehicle's DLC (data link connector). 4. Turn the ignition switch to the ON (II) position, then turn on the HDS. 5. At the screen prompts, enter the VIN and the odometer reading. Also verify the correct date and time. 6. From the System Selection menu, select SRS. 7. From the Mode menu, select Miscellaneous Test. 8. From the Miscellaneous Test menu, select OPDS 9. Follow the remaining screen prompts to complete the OPDS initialization. If the initialization fails repeat the process two more times. If the initialization fails again, check for set SRS DTCs, then troubleshoot them using the appropriate service manual. Initializing the OPDS Unit: Manual Mode NOTE: Non-Acura seat covers will interfere with the performance of the OPDS and are not recommended. Combination Light Switch Combination Switch: Service and Repair Combination Light Switch Combination Light Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the dashboard lower cover. 2. Remove the steering column covers. 3. Disconnect the 16P connector (A) from the combination light switch (B). 4. Remove the two screws, then pull out the combination light switch. Light/Turn Signal Switch 5. Inspect the connector terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the tables. - If there is no continuity, replace the switch. Five-Step Troubleshooting Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. How to Replace Connector Terminals Key Reminder Switch: Diagnostic Aids How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. Locations Radiator Cooling Fan Motor Relay: Locations Climate Control Component Location Index Part 2 Page 319 Diagram 115-1 Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo Number Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector Views/Connector Views By View Number Page 462 Powertrain Control Module: Diagnostic Aids Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures Locations 68. Behind Glove Box Page 426 Page 1136 Page 1062 Lights-on, Key-in, And Seat Belt Reminders, Key Lights Timer and Low Oil Pressure Indicator Image 73-1 Page 708 69. Behind Glove Box Page 165 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: Page 548 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Diagnostic Aids Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Page 1173 Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagrams 102. CMP Sensor 126. CMP Sensor B Page 964 Cabin Temperature Sensor / Switch: Service and Repair In-car Temperature Sensor Replacement 1. Remove the in-car temperature sensor (A) from the dashboard, then disconnect the 2P connector (B) and the air hose (C). Be careful not to damage the sensor and the dashboard. 2. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal. Be sure to connect the air hose securely. Locations 109. Middle Of Hatch Page 591 Fuel Pump Relay: Diagram Information and Instructions Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Page 489 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector A (31P) Part 2 Page 10 Blower Motor Relay Rear Window Defogger Relay Rear BOSE Stereo Amplifier Relay Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.3 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.2 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.3 terminals when power is disconnected. Five-terminal type: Page 700 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: See the turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type, A: Page 629 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 461 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Page 225 Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.5 terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.4 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 1132 Page 441 Powertrain Control Module: Diagnostic Aids Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Page 767 Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power is disconnected. Normally-open type B: Page 235 Exterior Lights - Component Location Index Page 142 Page 961 38. Under Middle Of Dash Page 468 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector A (31P) - Part 2 Page 1073 27. Back-up Light Switch (M/T) Page 1030 Page 507 Powertrain Control Module: Service and Repair How to Set Readiness Codes How to Set Readiness Codes Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Indication (In relation to Readiness Codes) The vehicle has certain "readiness codes" that are part of the on-board diagnostics for the emissions Systems. If the vehicle's battery has been disconnected or gone dead, if the DTCs have been cleared, or if the ECM/PCM has been reset, these codes are reset. In some states, part of the emissions testing is to make sure these codes are set to complete. If all of them are not set to complete, the vehicle may fail the emission test, or the test cannot be finished. To check if the readiness codes are complete, turn the ignition switch ON (II), but do not start the engine. The MIL will come on for 15-20 seconds. If it then goes off, the readiness codes are complete. If it blinks several times, one or more readiness codes are not complete. To set readiness codes from incomplete to complete, do the procedure for the appropriate code. Catalytic Converter Monitor and Readiness Code NOTES: - Do not turn the ignition switch off during the procedure. - All readiness codes are cleared when the battery is disconnected or when the ECM/PCM is cleared with the OBD II scan tool or Honda PGM Tester. - Low ambient temperatures or excessive stop-and-go traffic may increase the drive time needed to switch the readiness code from incomplete to complete. - The readiness code will not switch to complete until all the enable criteria are met. - If a fault in the secondary HO2S system caused the MIL to come on, the readiness code cannot be set to complete until you correct the fault. Enable Criteria: - ECT at 158°F (70°C) or higher. - Intake air temperature (IAT) at 2O°F (-7°C) or higher. - Vehicle speed is steady, and vehicle speed sensor (VSS) reads more then 25 mph (40 km/h). Procedure 1. Connect the scan tool to the vehicle's data link connector (DLC), and bring up the tool's generic OBD II mode. 2. Start the engine. 3. Test-drive the vehicle under stop-and-go conditions with short periods of steady cruise. After about 5 miles (8 km), the readiness code should switch from incomplete to complete. 4. If the readiness code is still set to incomplete, check for a temporary DTC. If there is no DTC, one or more of the enable criteria were probably not met; repeat the procedure. Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) Control System Monitor and Readiness code NOTES: - All readiness code are cleared when the battery is disconnected or when the ECM/PCM is cleared with the OBD II scan tool or Honda PGM Tester. - The enable criteria must be repeated if the intake air temperature (IAT) drops lower then 36^F (20^C) from its value at engine start up. Enable Criteria - At engine start up, ECT and IAT are higher then 32°F (0°C), but lower then 95°F (35°C). - At engine start up, the ECT and AT are within 12°F (7°C) of each other. Procedure 1. Connect the scan tool to the vehicle's data link connector (DLC), and bring up the tool's generic OBD II mode. 2. Start the engine. 3. Test-drive the vehicle under stop-and-go conditions with short periods of steady cruise. After about 2.5 miles (4.0 km), the readiness code should switch from incomplete to complete. 4. If the readiness code is still set to incomplete, check for a temporary DTC. If there is no DTC, one or more of the enable criteria were probably not met; repeat the procedure. Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor Monitor and Readiness Code NOTE: - Do not turn the ignition switch off during the procedure. - All readiness codes are cleared when the battery is disconnected or when the ECM/PCM is cleared with the OBD II scan tool or Honda PGM Tester. Page 765 147. A/T Reverse And Shift Lock Relay Page 222 Backup Lamp Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: See the turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type, A: Page 210 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Engine Compartment Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Part 1 Page 601 Page 137 Page 1143 Air Flow Meter/Sensor: Diagnostic Aids Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Page 238 Daytime Running Lamp Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type, A: Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power is disconnected. Day Time Running Light Relay (Canada) Page 664 Page 628 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: Page 919 Radiator Cooling Fan Temperature Sensor / Switch: Service and Repair Radiator Fan Switch Replacement 1. Disconnect the radiator fan switch connector, then remove the radiator fan switch (A). 2. Install the radiator fan switch with a new O-ring (B). Door Lock Knob Switch Power Door Lock Switch: Testing and Inspection Door Lock Knob Switch Door Lock Knob Switch Test 1. Remove the driver's door panel. 2. Disconnect the 3P connector from the actuator. 3. Check for continuity between the No.1 and No.3 terminals: - There should be continuity when the door lock knob switch is in the LOCKED position. - There should be no continuity when the door lock knob switch is in the UNLOCKED position. 4. Check for continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals: - There should be continuity when the door lock knob switch is in the UNLOCKED position. - There should be no continuity when the door lock knob switch is in the LOCKED position. 5. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the driver's door lock actuator. Page 781 Blower Motor Relay Rear Window Defogger Relay Rear BOSE Stereo Amplifier Relay Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.3 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.2 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.3 terminals when power is disconnected. Five-terminal type: Page 802 Wiper Control Module: Testing and Inspection Control Unit Input Test 1. Before testing, troubleshoot the multiplex control system. 2. Remove the dashboard lower cover. 3. Disconnect the under-dash fuse/relay box connectors B, F, G, J, X and Y. NOTE: All connectors are wire side of female terminals. 4. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals are OK, go to step 5. 5. Reconnect the connectors, and make these input tests at the connector. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 6. - If all the input tests prove OK, the multiplex control unit must be faulty; replace the under-dash fuse/relay box assembly. Page 1152 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 592 Fuel Pump Relay: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System How to Identify Connector Terminals Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they're in. The cavities are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown above is #6. Page 201 Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.5 terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.4 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 31 General Module: Diagram Information and Instructions Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Page 359 Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Locations 17. Transmission Housing (M/T) Page 1031 Page 197 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Engine Compartment Page 348 Fuse To Component Index Image 51 Page 616 Fuel Pump Relay: Diagnostic Aids Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Locations Page 303 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. Page 503 Powertrain Control Module: Service and Repair How to Reset ECM/PCM NOTE: This is the only information provided by the manufacturer for clearing diagnostic trouble codes. How to Reset the ECM/PCM You can reset the ECM/PCM in either of two ways: - Use the OBD II scan tool or Honda PGM Tester to clear the ECM/PCM memory. See the OBD II scan tool or Honda PGM Tester user's manuals for specific instructions. - Turn the ignition switch OFF, and remove the No.6 ECU (ECM/PCM) (15 A) fuse (A) from the under-hood fuse/relay box (B) for 10 seconds. Page 442 Powertrain Control Module: Diagnostic Aids Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Page 574 Blower Motor Relay Rear Window Defogger Relay Rear BOSE Stereo Amplifier Relay Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.3 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.2 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.3 terminals when power is disconnected. Five-terminal type: Page 634 Fuel Pump Relay: Diagnostic Aids How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. Page 756 Starter Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: See the turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type, A: Page 8 Alarm Horn Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: See the turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type, A: Page 870 44. Hatch Latch Switch Page 892 Wheel Speed Sensor: Component Locations Rear 112. Front Right Of Cargo Area (Except Canada Base) 136. Rear Underside Of Vehicle (Except Canada Base) Page 144 Page 1161 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. Page 563 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the above mentioned NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. Page 1134 Page 40 Page 134 Page 1123 Page 493 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector E (31P) Part 1 Locations Daytime Running Lamp Relay: Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dash Board Page 963 Cabin Temperature Sensor / Switch: Testing and Inspection In-car Temperature Sensor Test Check for a change in resistance by heating or cooling the sensor with a hair drier. Compare the resistance reading between the No.1 and No.2 terminals of the in-car temperature sensor with the specifications shown in the graph; the resistance should be within the specifications. Page 298 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 877 Brake Fluid Level Sensor/Switch: Testing and Inspection Brake Fluid Level Switch Test Check for continuity between the terminals (A) with the float in the down position and the up position. Remove the brake fluid completely from the reservoir. With the float down, there should be continuity. - Fill the reservoir with brake fluid to MAX (upper) level (B). With the front up, there should be no continuity. Locations Seat Heaters (Canada) Component Location Index Page 1116 Air Flow Meter/Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 427 Page 674 Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Page 1029 Page 1023 Locations Starter Relay: Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Part 1 Page 229 185. DRL Control Unit (Canada) Five-Step Troubleshooting General Module: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Page 885 11. Parking Brake Switch Page 79 Multiplex Control System Image 50 Page 191 Cruise Control Module: Testing and Inspection Control Unit Input Test SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and precautions and procedures in the SRS section before performing repairs or service. 1. Disconnect the 14P connector from the control unit. 2. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose, or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, go to step 3. Part 1 Page 837 47. Security Hood Switch Page 175 Radiator Cooling Fan Control Module: Diagnostic Aids Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 996 Fuel Gauge Sender: Locations Gauges Component Location Index Part 1 How to Replace Connector Terminals Body Control Module: Diagnostic Aids How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. Page 858 Seat Heater Switch: Service and Repair Seat Heater Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the dashboard center lower cover. 2. Disconnect the lop connector (A) from the seat heater switch (B), then remove the switch. 3. Check for continuity in each switch position according to the table. Five-Step Troubleshooting Interior Lighting Module: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Page 1000 9. Install a 2 Ohm resistor between the fuel pump 5P connector terminals No.1 and No.2, then turn the ignition switch ON (II). 10. Check that the pointer of the fuel gauge indicates "F". - If the pointer of the fuel gauge does not indicate "F", replace the gauge. - If the gauge is OK, inspect the fuel gauge sending unit. NOTE: The pointer of the fuel gauge returns to the bottom of the gauge dial when the ignition switch is OFF, regardless of the fuel level. 11. Relieve the fuel pressure. 12. Remove the fuel fill cap. 13. Disconnect the quick-connect fittings from the fuel pump. 14. Using the tool, loosen the fuel tank unit locknut (A). 15. Measure the resistance between the No.1 and No.2 terminals with the float at E (EMPTY), 1/2 (HALF FULL), and F (FULL) positions. If you do not get the following readings, replace the fuel gauge sending unit. Page 589 shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Locations 82. Left B-pillar (Right Similar) Page 126 shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Page 387 Page 439 Powertrain Control Module: Diagnostic Aids Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Page 458 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. Page 538 Page 75 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. Page 769 Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.5 terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.4 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 406 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 143 Page 71 General Module: Diagnostic Aids How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. Page 1086 Combination Switch: Testing and Inspection Combination Light Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the dashboard lower cover. 2. Remove the steering column covers. 3. Disconnect the 16P connector (A) from the combination light switch (B). 4. Remove the two screws, then pull out the combination light switch. Light/Turn Signal Switch 5. Inspect the connector terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the tables. - If there is no continuity, replace the switch. Locations Keyless/Power Door Lock System Component Location Index Page 1078 Exterior Lights Component Location Index Part 3 Page 534 Page 1150 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. Locations Sunroof/Moonroof Relay: Locations 32. Left Side Of Dash 33. Left Side Of Dash Page 166 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 168 Radiator Cooling Fan Control Module: Diagnostic Aids How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. Locations Air Bag Control Module: Locations 51. Under Middle Of Dash 81. In Passenger's Seat Page 471 PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector C (22P) Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated Monitors Powertrain Control Module: Technical Service Bulletins Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated Monitors 03-010 April 2, 2010 Applies To: All OBD II-equipped models except SLX OBD II DTCs and Their Associated Monitors (Supersedes 03-010, dated March 29, 2003, to revise the information marked by the black bars and asterisks) REVISION SUMMARY Numerous DTCs were added. Refer to the list for details. Radiator Fan Switch (Short) Radiator Cooling Fan Temperature Sensor / Switch: Testing and Inspection Radiator Fan Switch (Short) Radiator Fan Switch Circuit Troubleshooting (Short) 1. Remove the radiator fan relay from the under-hood fuse/relay box, and test it. Is the relay OK? YES - Go to step 2. NO - Replace the radiator fan relay. 2. Remove the radiator fan switch, and test it. Is the radiator fan switch OK? YES - Go to step 3. NO - Replace the radiator fan switch. 3. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector B (24P) and the under-hood fuse relay box 14P connector. 4. Check for continuity between the No. 2 terminal of the radiator fan switch 2P connector and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between the radiator fan switch 2P connector terminal No. 2 and underhood fuse/relay box. NO - Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box. Page 698 154. PGM-FI Main Relays 1 And 2, Shift Lock Diode (A/T) Locations 80. Under Passenger's Seat (Bose) Locations Doors Component Location Index Page 103 Seat Heaters (Canada) Component Location Index Page 556 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: Page 731 OPDS Sensor Refer to the parts catalog for the applicable part number if needed. Seat-Back Panel Clips All models except RSX: P/N 91566-SP0-003 (3.2CL, MDX, 3.2TL: 2 required; 3.5RL: 3 required) TOOL INFORMATION HDS with software version 2.002.006 or later, or SCS Service Connector: T/N 07PAZ-0010100A WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Failed Part: OPDS Unit: P/N 81334-S0K-A61 Defect Code: 55A00 Symptom Code: Q0900 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repairs to the SRS system for problems other than the 15-1,15-2, and 15-3 DTCs that are done after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. INSPECTION PROCEDURE NOTE: ^ When you check for SRS DTCs with the HDS, codes other than 15-1,15-2, and 15-3 are not covered by this warranty extension bulletin. If you find other SRS DTCs, file a claim only for the SRS DTCs - Retrieve and clear (use operation number: 723507, defect code: 55A00, and symptom code: Q0900 as listed above). ^ Other SRS codes and their repairs are not covered by this bulletin. If the vehicle is covered by warranty, repair it using the normal warranty repair procedures. If the vehicle's warranty is expired, give your client an estimate for the cost of the repair. Do the appropriate inspection, based on the DTC. SRS DTC 15-1 Page 619 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 747 1. Adjust the front passenger's seat-back to an upright position, then remove anything that is on or near the seat. 2. Turn the ignition switch to the LOCK (0) position. 3. On all models except 3.5RLs, connect the HDS to the vehicle's DLC (data link connector). Keep the ignition switch in the LOCK (0) position, and turn on the HDS. 4. On 3.5RLs, connect the SCS service connector to the 2P service check connector. Do not use a jumper wire. Refer to page 24-88 of the 1996-01 3.5HL Service Manual for details. Go to step 8. 5. At the screen prompts, enter the VIN and the odometer reading. Page 48 Page 492 PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector D (17P) Page 1163 Air Flow Meter/Sensor: Diagnostic Aids Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures Page 496 Powertrain Control Module: Testing and Inspection How to Remove the ECM/PCM For Testing How to Remove the ECM/PCM for Testing If the inspection for a trouble code requires voltage or resistance checks at the ECM/PCM connectors, remove the ECM/PCM and test it: 1. Remove the passenger's dashboard lower cover (A). 2. Remove the ECM/PCM mounting bolts (B) and the ECM/PCM (C). Page 77 General Module: Diagnostic Aids Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures Page 1117 Air Flow Meter/Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Locations 118. Behind Front Bumper Page 1130 Page 1028 Page 242 212. Fog Light Relay (Acura Accessory) Page 454 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 383 Locations Keyless/Power Door Lock System Component Location Index Page 1102 Hazard Warning Switch: Testing and Inspection Hazard Warning Switch Test 1. Remove the audio unit. 2. Disconnect the 10P connector (A) from the hazard warning switch (B). 3. Remove the two screws and the hazard warning switch. 4. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. 5. If necessary, check the illumination bulb (C). Page 9 Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power is disconnected. Normally-open type B: Page 881 135. Brake Pedal Position Switch Page 456 Powertrain Control Module: Diagnostic Aids How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. Page 827 99. Driver's Door (Passenger's Similar) How to Replace Connector Terminals Interior Lighting Module: Diagnostic Aids How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. Page 580 Oxygen Sensor Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Normally-open type, A: Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power is disconnected. Air Fuel Ratio Sensor Relay Page 284 Page 906 Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Description and Operation Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor The ECT sensor is a temperature dependent resistor (thermistor). The resistance of the thermistor decreases as the engine coolant temperature increases. Page 1053 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the above mentioned NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. Page 394 Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Five-Step Troubleshooting Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Page 345 23. Left Side Of Engine Compartment Page 547 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Diagnostic Aids Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Page 654 Wire Color Abbreviations Locations Cruise Control Switch: Locations 31. Left Side Of Dash 36. Inside Of Steering Wheel Page 605 Page 16 Alarm Module: Testing and Inspection Security Control Unit Input Test 1. Remove the dashboard lower cover. 2. Disconnect the 20P connector (A) and 16P connector (B) from the control unit (C). 3. Inspect the all connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, go to step 4. Page 679 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. Page 215 175. Mode Control Motor Page 321 6. Reconnect the connectors to the under-dash fuse/relay box, and make these input tests at the appropriate connectors on the under-dash fuse/relay box If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, the multiplex control unit must be faulty, replace the under-dash fuse/relay box assembly. Specifications Page 836 7. Front Of Engine Compartment Page 1084 37. In Steering Column Cover Locations Page 790 Power Window Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: See the turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type, A: Page 862 160. Moonroof Switch (except Canada Base) Locations Wipers/Washers Component Location Index Part 1 Page 558 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 484 Powertrain Control Module: Testing and Inspection How to Set Readiness Codes How to Set Readiness Codes Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Indication (In relation to Readiness Codes) The vehicle has certain "readiness codes" that are part of the on-board diagnostics for the emissions Systems. If the vehicle's battery has been disconnected or gone dead, if the DTCs have been cleared, or if the ECM/PCM has been reset, these codes are reset. In some states, part of the emissions testing is to make sure these codes are set to complete. If all of them are not set to complete, the vehicle may fail the emission test, or the test cannot be finished. To check if the readiness codes are complete, turn the ignition switch ON (II), but do not start the engine. The MIL will come on for 15-20 seconds. If it then goes off, the readiness codes are complete. If it blinks several times, one or more readiness codes are not complete. To set readiness codes from incomplete to complete, do the procedure for the appropriate code. Catalytic Converter Monitor and Readiness Code NOTES: - Do not turn the ignition switch off during the procedure. - All readiness codes are cleared when the battery is disconnected or when the ECM/PCM is cleared with the OBD II scan tool or Honda PGM Tester. - Low ambient temperatures or excessive stop-and-go traffic may increase the drive time needed to switch the readiness code from incomplete to complete. - The readiness code will not switch to complete until all the enable criteria are met. - If a fault in the secondary HO2S system caused the MIL to come on, the readiness code cannot be set to complete until you correct the fault. Enable Criteria: - ECT at 158°F (70°C) or higher. - Intake air temperature (IAT) at 2O°F (-7°C) or higher. - Vehicle speed is steady, and vehicle speed sensor (VSS) reads more then 25 mph (40 km/h). Procedure 1. Connect the scan tool to the vehicle's data link connector (DLC), and bring up the tool's generic OBD II mode. 2. Start the engine. 3. Test-drive the vehicle under stop-and-go conditions with short periods of steady cruise. After about 5 miles (8 km), the readiness code should switch from incomplete to complete. 4. If the readiness code is still set to incomplete, check for a temporary DTC. If there is no DTC, one or more of the enable criteria were probably not met; repeat the procedure. Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) Control System Monitor and Readiness code NOTES: - All readiness code are cleared when the battery is disconnected or when the ECM/PCM is cleared with the OBD II scan tool or Honda PGM Tester. - The enable criteria must be repeated if the intake air temperature (IAT) drops lower then 36^F (20^C) from its value at engine start up. Enable Criteria - At engine start up, ECT and IAT are higher then 32°F (0°C), but lower then 95°F (35°C). - At engine start up, the ECT and AT are within 12°F (7°C) of each other. Procedure 1. Connect the scan tool to the vehicle's data link connector (DLC), and bring up the tool's generic OBD II mode. 2. Start the engine. 3. Test-drive the vehicle under stop-and-go conditions with short periods of steady cruise. After about 2.5 miles (4.0 km), the readiness code should switch from incomplete to complete. 4. If the readiness code is still set to incomplete, check for a temporary DTC. If there is no DTC, one or more of the enable criteria were probably not met; repeat the procedure. Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor Monitor and Readiness Code NOTE: - Do not turn the ignition switch off during the procedure. - All readiness codes are cleared when the battery is disconnected or when the ECM/PCM is cleared with the OBD II scan tool or Honda PGM Tester. Page 379 Locations 69. Behind Glove Box Page 564 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. Page 537 Page 1012 Key Reminder Switch: Diagram Information and Instructions Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Page 250 Exterior Lights Component Location Index Part 1 Page 830 Door Lock Cylinder Switch: Testing and Inspection Door Key Cylinder Switch Test 1. Remove the door panel. 2. Disconnect the 3P connector from the key cylinder switch. 3. Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.2 and No.3 terminals when the door key cylinder switch is in the LOCK position. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when the door key cylinder switch is in the UNLOCK position. Five-Step Troubleshooting Powertrain Control Module: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Description and Operation Barometric Pressure Sensor: Description and Operation Barometric Pressure (BARO) Sensor The BARO sensor is inside the ECM/PCM. It converts atmospheric pressure into a voltage signal that modifies the basic duration of the fuel injection discharge. Page 789 Power Windows Component Location Index Page 314 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. Locations Heated Glass Element Relay: Locations Rear Window Defogger Component Location Index Page 604 Page 554 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. Page 43 Page 299 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. Locations Alarm Module: Locations 39. In Steering Column Cover 46. Under Left Side Of Dash Page 485 Enable Criteria - ECT at 140°F (60°C) or higher. Procedure 1. Connect the scan tool to the vehicle's data link connector (DLC), and bring up the tool's generic OBD II mode. 2. Start the engine. 3. Test-drive the vehicle under stop-and-go conditions with short periods of steady cruise. During the drive, decelerate (with the throttle fully closed) for 5 seconds. After about 3.5 miles (5.6 km), the readiness code should switch from incomplete to complete. 4. If the readiness code is still set to incomplete, check for a temporary DTC. If there is no DTC, the enable criteria was probably not met; repeat the procedure. Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor Heater Monitor Readiness Code NOTE: All readiness codes are cleared when the battery is disconnected or when the ECM/PCM is cleared with the OBD II scan tool or Honda PGM Tester. Procedure 1. Connect the scan tool to the vehicle's data link connector (DLC), and bring up the tool's generic OBD II mode. 2. Start the engine, and let it idle for 1 minute. The readiness code should switch from incomplete to complete. 3. If the readiness code is still set to incomplete, check for a temporary DTC. If there is no DTC, repeat the procedure. Misfire Monitor and Readiness Code - This readiness code is always set to available because misfiring is continuously monitored. - Monitoring pauses, and the misfire counter resets, if the vehicle is driven over a rough road. - Monitoring also pauses, and the misfire counter holds at its current value, if the throttle position changes more than a predetermined value, or if driving conditions fall outside the range of any related enable criteria. Fuel System Monitor and Readiness Code - This readiness code is always set to available because the fuel system is continuously monitored during closed loop operation. - Monitoring pauses when the catalytic converter, EVAP control system, and A/F sensor monitors are active. - Monitoring also pauses when any related enable criteria are not being met. Monitoring resumes when the enable criteria is again being met. Comprehensive Component Monitor and Readiness Code This readiness code is always set to available because the comprehensive component monitor is continuously running whenever the engine is cranking or running. Page 73 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. Page 535 Page 479 Powertrain Control Module: Testing and Inspection Known-Good ECM/PCM Substitution ECM/PCM Updating and Substitution for Testing Special Tools Required Honda Interface Module (HIM) - P/N EQS05A35570 Use this procedure when you have to substitute a known-good ECM/PCM in a troubleshooting procedure. Update the ECM/PCM only if the ECM/PCM does not already have the latest software loaded. NOTE: Do not turn the ignition switch OFF while updating the ECM/PCM. If you turn the ignition switch OFF, the ECM/PCM can be damaged. How to Update the ECM/PCM 1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Do not start the engine. 2. Connect the Honda Interface Module (HIM) to the Data Link Connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of dashboard. 3. Do the ECM/PCM update procedure as described on the HIM label and in the ECM/PCM update system. How to Substitute the ECM/PCM 1. Remove the ECM/PCM from the vehicle. 2. Install a known-good ECM/PCM in the vehicle. 3. Rewrite the immobilizer code with the ECM/PCM replacement procedure from the Honda PGM Tester. It allows you to start the engine. 4. After completing your tests, reinstall the original ECM/PCM and rewrite the immobilizer code with the PCM replacement procedure on the Honda PGM Tester again. Page 279 Page 977 Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch: Testing and Inspection A/C Pressure Switch Circuit Troubleshooting 1. Disconnect the A/C pressure switch 2P connector. 2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 3. Measure the voltage between the No.2 terminal of the A/C pressure switch 2P connector and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 4. NO - Go to step 10. 4. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 5. Check for continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals of the A/C pressure switch. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 6. NO - Go to step 12. 6. Reconnect the A/C pressure switch 2P connector. 7. Disconnect the climate control unit 30P connector. 8. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 9. Measure the voltage between the No.24 terminal of the climate control unit 30P connector and body ground. Is there battery voltage? Page 549 Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking voltage drop. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. Page 459 Powertrain Control Module: Diagnostic Aids How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. Page 332 Turn Signal Relay: Testing and Inspection Turn Signal/Hazard Relay Input Test 1. Remove the turn signal/hazard relay (A) from the under-dash fuse/relay box (B). 2. Inspect the relay and fuse/relay box socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose, or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, go to step 3. 3. Make these input tests at the fuse/relay box. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, the turn signal/hazard relay must be faulty; replace it. Page 635 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. Page 502 Powertrain Control Module: Service and Repair Known-Good ECM/PCM Substitution ECM/PCM Updating and Substitution for Testing Special Tools Required Honda Interface Module (HIM) - P/N EQS05A35570 Use this procedure when you have to substitute a known-good ECM/PCM in a troubleshooting procedure. Update the ECM/PCM only if the ECM/PCM does not already have the latest software loaded. NOTE: Do not turn the ignition switch OFF while updating the ECM/PCM. If you turn the ignition switch OFF, the ECM/PCM can be damaged. How to Update the ECM/PCM 1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Do not start the engine. 2. Connect the Honda Interface Module (HIM) to the Data Link Connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of dashboard. 3. Do the ECM/PCM update procedure as described on the HIM label and in the ECM/PCM update system. How to Substitute the ECM/PCM 1. Remove the ECM/PCM from the vehicle. 2. Install a known-good ECM/PCM in the vehicle. 3. Rewrite the immobilizer code with the ECM/PCM replacement procedure from the Honda PGM Tester. It allows you to start the engine. 4. After completing your tests, reinstall the original ECM/PCM and rewrite the immobilizer code with the PCM replacement procedure on the Honda PGM Tester again. Service and Repair Temperature Sensor (Gauge): Service and Repair Gauge Assembly Replacement 1. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover. then remove the upper column cover. 2. Remove the two mounting screws from the gauge assembly (A). 3. Disconnect the connectors (B), and remove the gauge assembly. 4. Install the gauge assembly in the reverse order of removal. Page 1020 Page 154 Radiator Cooling Fan Control Module: Diagnostic Aids Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Page 384 Page 1001 NOTE: Remove the No.9 BACK UP (7.5A) fuse from the under-hood fuse/relay box for at least 10 seconds after completing troubleshooting otherwise it may take up to 20 minutes for the fuel gauge to indicate the correct fuel level. Page 337 Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power is disconnected. Normally-open type B: Page 51 Page 655 Page 907 Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Testing and Inspection ECT Sensor Circuit Troubleshooting 1. Check the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL). Does the malfunction indicator lamp come on? YES - Refer to the Fuel and Emissions section. NO - Go to step 2. 2. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 3. Disconnect the ECT sensor 2P connector. 4. Disconnect the climate control unit 30P connector. 5. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 6. Measure the voltage between the No.18 terminal of the climate control unit 30P connector and body ground. Is there about 5 V? YES - Check for loose wires or poor connections at the climate control unit 30P connector and at the ECT sensor 2P connector. If the connections are good, substitute a known-good climate control unit, and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the original climate control unit. NO - Repair open in the wire between the climate control unit and the ECT sensor. Page 390 Page 483 Enable Criteria - ECT at 140°F (60°C) or higher. Procedure 1. Connect the scan tool to the vehicle's data link connector (DLC), and bring up the tool's generic OBD II mode. 2. Start the engine. 3. Test-drive the vehicle under stop-and-go conditions with short periods of steady cruise. During the drive, decelerate (with the throttle fully closed) for 5 seconds. After about 3.5 miles (5.6 km), the readiness code should switch from incomplete to complete. 4. If the readiness code is still set to incomplete, check for a temporary DTC. If there is no DTC, the enable criteria was probably not met; repeat the procedure. Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor Heater Monitor Readiness Code NOTE: All readiness codes are cleared when the battery is disconnected or when the ECM/PCM is cleared with the OBD II scan tool or Honda PGM Tester. Procedure 1. Connect the scan tool to the vehicle's data link connector (DLC), and bring up the tool's generic OBD II mode. 2. Start the engine, and let it idle for 1 minute. The readiness code should switch from incomplete to complete. 3. If the readiness code is still set to incomplete, check for a temporary DTC. If there is no DTC, repeat the procedure. Misfire Monitor and Readiness Code - This readiness code is always set to available because misfiring is continuously monitored. - Monitoring pauses, and the misfire counter resets, if the vehicle is driven over a rough road. - Monitoring also pauses, and the misfire counter holds at its current value, if the throttle position changes more than a predetermined value, or if driving conditions fall outside the range of any related enable criteria. Fuel System Monitor and Readiness Code - This readiness code is always set to available because the fuel system is continuously monitored during closed loop operation. - Monitoring pauses when the catalytic converter, EVAP control system, and A/F sensor monitors are active. - Monitoring also pauses when any related enable criteria are not being met. Monitoring resumes when the enable criteria is again being met. Comprehensive Component Monitor and Readiness Code This readiness code is always set to available because the comprehensive component monitor is continuously running whenever the engine is cranking or running. Page 1037 Key Reminder Switch: Diagnostic Aids Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Five-Step Troubleshooting Fuel Pump Relay: Diagnostic Aids Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Page 185 Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.3 and No.5 terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.4 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 375 Page 58 Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking voltage drop. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. Page 1144 Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking voltage drop. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. Page 997 Fuel Supply System - Component Location Index 2 Page 1039 Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking voltage drop. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. Locations Condenser Fan Motor Relay: Locations Climate Control Component Location Index Part 2 Page 713 Air Bag Control Module: Diagrams 205. SRS Unit Page 714 209. OPDS Unit Page 567 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Page 481 Powertrain Control Module: Testing and Inspection How to Reset ECM/PCM NOTE: This is the only information provided by the manufacturer for clearing diagnostic trouble codes. How to Reset the ECM/PCM You can reset the ECM/PCM in either of two ways: - Use the OBD II scan tool or Honda PGM Tester to clear the ECM/PCM memory. See the OBD II scan tool or Honda PGM Tester user's manuals for specific instructions. - Turn the ignition switch OFF, and remove the No.6 ECU (ECM/PCM) (15 A) fuse (A) from the under-hood fuse/relay box (B) for 10 seconds. Page 311 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the above mentioned NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. Page 112 Blower Motor Relay Rear Window Defogger Relay Rear BOSE Stereo Amplifier Relay Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.3 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.2 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.3 terminals when power is disconnected. Five-terminal type: Page 779 Heated Glass Element Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: See the turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type, A: Page 327 Blower Motor Relay Rear Window Defogger Relay Rear BOSE Stereo Amplifier Relay Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.3 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.2 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.3 terminals when power is disconnected. Five-terminal type: Page 57 General Module: Diagnostic Aids Troubleshooting Tests Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Page 1041 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. Page 156 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Locations Keyless/Power Door Lock System Component Location Index Locations Cabin Temperature Sensor / Switch: Locations Climate Control - Component Location Index Front Wheel Speed Sensor: Component Locations Front 122. Transmission Housing 125. Right Side Of Engine Page 270 Interior Lighting Module: Diagram Information and Instructions Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Page 1162 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Page 1067 11. Parking Brake Switch Page 610 Page 155 Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking voltage drop. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. Page 1125 Page 950 Oil Pressure Sender: Service and Repair Oil Pressure Switch Replacement 1. Disconnect the oil pressure switch connector, then remove the oil pressure switch. 2. Apply liquid gasket to the oil pressure switch threads, then install the oil pressure switch. Page 283 Locations 82. Left B-pillar (Right Similar) Page 624 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. Page 374 Page 992 Door Switch: Diagrams 5. Door Switch, Driver's 6. Door Switch, Passenger's Page 917 Radiator Cooling Fan Temperature Sensor / Switch: Testing and Inspection Radiator Fan Switch (Open) Radiator Fan Switch Circuit Troubleshooting (Open) 1. Disconnect the radiator fan switch 2P connector. 2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 3. Measure voltage between the No. 2 terminal of the radiator fan switch 2P connector and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 4. NO - Repair open in the wire between the radiator fan switch 2P connector terminal No. 2 and underhood fuse/relay box. 4. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and check for continuity between the No. 1 terminal of the radiator fan switch 2P connector and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Replace the radiator fan switch. NO - Check for an open in the wire between the radiator fan switch 2P connector terminal No. 1 and body ground. If the wire is OK, check for a poor ground at G302. Page 176 Page 70 1. Remove the terminal 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL TERMINALS. Page 733 1. On all models except RSXs, remove the front passenger's seat-back panel by prying out the bottom. Replace the seat-back panel lower clips. 2. On RSXs, unzip the two seat cover zippers on the back of the front passenger's seat. 3. Pull back the seat-back cover from the left side bolster to access the OPDS unit cover. 4. Remove the OPDS unit cover from the seat frame. 5. Check the part number of the installed OPDS unit. Page 943 Cruise Control Switch: Service and Repair Cruise Control Set/Resume/Cancel Switch Test/Replacement Set/Resume/Cancel Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the two screws, then remove the switch. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals in switch position according to the table. - If there is continuity, and it matches the table, but switch failure occurred on the cruise control unit input test, check and repair the wire harness on the switch circuit. - If there is no continuity in one or both positions, replace the switch. Page 978 YES - Check for loose wires or poor connections at the climate control unit 30P connector and at the A/C pressure switch 2P connector. If the connections are good, substitute a known-good climate control unit, and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the original climate control unit. NO - Repair open in the wire between the climate control unit and the A/C pressure switch. 10. Make sure the A/C switch is OFF. 11. Measure the voltage between the No.9 terminal of under-dash fuse/relay box connector F (12P) and body ground with the under-dash fuse/relay box connectors connected. Is there battery voltage? YES - Repair open in the wire between the under-dash fuse/relay box and the A/C pressure switch. NO - Refer to the multiplex control system. 12. Check for proper A/C system pressure. Is the pressure within specifications? YES - Replace the A/C pressure switch. NO - Repair the A/C pressure problem. Page 1036 Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Page 1155 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: How to Replace Connector Terminals Air Flow Meter/Sensor: Diagnostic Aids How to Replace Connector Terminals HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. Page 37 Page 750 clearing fails, repeat the process two more times. If the DTC clearing fails again, check for set SRS DTCs, and troubleshoot them with the appropriate service manual. REPAIR PROCEDURE B: OPDS SENSOR REPLACEMENT 1. Remove the seat-back cover from the front passenger's seat: ^ Using the appropriate service manual, go to section 20 (Body), and do the removal steps under Front Seat Cover Replacement, or ^ Online, enter keyword SEAT COVER, then select Front Seat Cover Replacement from the list, and do the removal steps in the procedure. 2. Slide the seat-back cushion (foam) off the seat-back frame. (The OPDS sensor is built into the seat-back cushion.) 3. Slide a new seat-back cushion over the seat-back frame. Make sure the cushion is centered. 4. Reinstall the seat-back cover: ^ Using the appropriate service manual, go to section 20 (Body), and do the installation step under Front Seat Cover Replacement, or ^ Online, enter keyword SEAT COVER, then select Front Seat Cover Replacement from the list, and do the installation step in the procedure. 5. Reinitialize the OPDS unit: ^ To reinitialize with the HDS, go to Initializing the OPDS Unit: HDS Method in this service bulletin. ^ To reinitialize with the SCS service connector, go to Initializing the OPDS Unit: Manual Mode in this service bulletin. Disclaimer Page 224 Blower Motor Relay Rear Window Defogger Relay Rear BOSE Stereo Amplifier Relay Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No.1 and No.3 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.2 and No.4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No.1 and No.3 terminals when power is disconnected. Five-terminal type: Page 416 Body Control Module: Diagnostic Aids Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures Page 504 Powertrain Control Module: Service and Repair How to Reset ECM/PCM NOTE: This is the only information provided by the manufacturer for clearing diagnostic trouble codes. How to Reset the ECM/PCM You can reset the ECM/PCM in either of two ways: - Use the OBD II scan tool or Honda PGM Tester to clear the ECM/PCM memory. See the OBD II scan tool or Honda PGM Tester user's manuals for specific instructions. - Turn the ignition switch OFF, and remove the No.6 ECU (ECM/PCM) (15 A) fuse (A) from the under-hood fuse/relay box (B) for 10 seconds. Page 177 Radiator Cooling Fan Control Module: Testing and Inspection Symptom Troubleshooting Index Before performing any troubleshooting procedures check: ^ Fuses ^ Grounds ^ Cleanliness and tightness of all connectors Locations Backup Lamp Relay: Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Part 2 Page 118 199. ABS Modulator-Control Unit (Except Canada Base) Page 68 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: Page 766 Shift Interlock Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: See the turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type, A: Page 46 Page 632 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the above mentioned NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. Page 1172 14. Left Side Of Engine Page 221 147. A/T Reverse And Shift Lock Relay Page 688 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 1124 Page 433