2 Sheets
MAINTENANCE
No. 504
INSTRUCTIONS
DISMANTLING AND REBUILDING
FULL-WIDTH REAR WHEEL HUBS
T
gearbox is mounted; the lock-nut (13)
and the hub cover disc.
From the brake side of the wheel
remove the spindle nut (19) and washer
(18), the spacer for the fork end (17),
and the outer spacer (20)
Withdraw the brake cover plate complete with the brake shoes from the
brake drum.
Remove the inner spacer (12).
If it is desired to remove the brake
drum, take off the nuts (23) and
washers (24). and pull the drum away
from the hub. It is located on a spigot
in the hub. The bolts (25) will remain
in the hub and can be pushed out.
Press out the spindle (1). It can be
withdrawn from either side and pushed
out with a press and a suitable brass or
copper rod of slightly less diameter than
the spindle, or driven out with a hammer and a copper or brass drift.
Remove the oil-seal retaining washer
(3). the oil seal (4), the oil-seal cup (5),
and oil-seal distance piece (6). These
can be hooked out with the shank of a
small and narrow screw-driver.
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HE wheels are carried on adjustable, taper
roller bearings.. The bearing cups are a
press fit in the spindle tunnel; the left-hand
side bearing is located in the hub by a circlip
lying in a groove at the end of the tunnel, and
the right-hand side bearing is adjustable for
position. It is moved axially by a screwed
sleeve which is threaded into the right-hand
end of the spindle tunnel and is located in
position by a circular nut.
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Rigid Frame Models
Dismantling
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(i)
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The numbers shown thus: (2), refer to the numbered parts in the illustration.
(a) Disconnect the speedometer driving
cable.
(b) Remove the lock-nut (16) which secures
the speedometer-drive gearbox in
position.
(c) Remove the wheel from the frame.
(d) Grasp the speedometer-drive gearbox
with the fingers and firmly pull it away
from the hub.
(e) Slacken the circlip lock-nut (13).
(f) Unscrew and remove the adjusting
sleeve (14). With it will come: the
sleeve (2) upon which
the speedometer-drive
(g)
(1)
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ISSUED BY A·J·S MOTOR CYCLES, LONDON, S.E.18.
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(q) Extract the circlip by inserting a narrow
pen-knife blade under one end of the
circlip; lift it upwards and outwards
and prise the clip out of its groove.
(r) Remove the oil-seal cup (5), the oil seal
(4), oil-seal retaining ring (10), bearing
spacing collar (9) and the oil-seal distance piece (6). They can be hooked
out with the shank of a small and
narrow screw-driver.
(s) The bearing cup can now be ejected by
placing a suitable rod of soft metal
(e.g. brass) in the hub tunnel from the
right-hand side and pressing it against
the bearing cup until the cup is forced
out of its housing.
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Removal of the Bearings
It is important that bearing parts are not
mixed. The roller race and its associated cup
must be replaced together and not interchanged
with those of another bearing.
(m) To facilitate removal of the bearing
cups gently heat the hub shell.
(n) Place on the outer face of the brakeside, oil-seal
distance piece (6) a short
rod of 7/8-inch diameter — preferably a
soft metal such as brass — and apply
pressure so that the far bearing cup and
the caged roller race are pushed out of
the hub tunnel.
The distance piece (8) and the caged
roller race of the near bearing will also
be ejected.
NOTE This operation can be performed by
jarring the soft metal rod with a hammer but the utmost care must be taken otherwise the bearings or hub shell may be damaged.
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Removal of the Brake-side Bearing Cup
The bearing cup (7) is located endwise by a
circlip (11) and between the cup and circlip are
a spacing collar (9), oil-seal retaining ring (10),
oil seal (4), oil-seal cup (5) and oil-seal distance
piece (6).
Before any parts can be removed the bearing
cup must be moved inwards for a very short
distance so that the circlip can be removed.
(o) If the hub shell has cooled during the
previous operations gently reheat it.
(p) Place a soft metal rod (e.g. brass)
against the oil-seal cup (5) and apply
pressure. It is only necessary to move
the bearing cup (7) inwards about
1/16-inch.
Reassembly
To facilitate replacement of the bearing cups
gently heat the hub shell. If the existing bearings, oil seals, etc., are to be refitted it is preferable that they should occupy their original
positions.
(a) Place the brake-side bearing cup
squarely in the hub shell — the open
end faces inwards — and press it into
position. A short length of brass rod,
slightly less in diameter than the outside
diameter of the cup, should be interposed between the cup and ram of the
press or hammer head. Press the cup
in until the outer face is approximately
half-an-inch below the mouth of the
hub tunnel. This will allow sufficient
room for the circlip to be inserted into
its groove.
(b) Refit in the following order: oil-seal
distance piece (6) (the shoulder abuts
against the roller race), bearing spacing
collar (9). oil-seal cup (5).
No. 504
MAINTENANCE INSTRUCTIONS
Sheet 2
(m) Refit the outer spacer (2), the spacer for
the fork end (17), washer (18), and
spindle nut (19).
(n) Refit: oil-seal distance piece (6), oilseal cup (5), oil seal (4), and the small
oil-seal retaining ring (3).
(o) Thread the speedometer gearbox sleeve
(2) through the bearing adjusting sleeve
(14) and insert the sleeve into the hub
cover disc. Now screw the sleeve into
the hub until it comes into contact with
the bearing.
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The circlip can now be replaced. In
the interests of reliability a new circlip
should be fitted, for it is possible that
the existing clip was strained when it
was removed.
(d) With the aid of a brass rod of suitable
length, inserted in the hub tunnel from
the right-hand side, press the bearing
cup firmly against the circlip.
(e) Before inserting the roller races pack
them with clean and fresh grease of a
suitable grade.
(Mobilgrease No. 4.
Castrolease Heavy, Energrease C3, Esso
Pressure Gun Grease, Shell Retinax
Grease CD or A).
(f) Insert into the hub the wheel spindle;
this will facilitate the task of
re-assembling the remainder of the
parts.
(g) Over the spindle slide the roller race
associated With the brake-side bearing
cup and the distance piece (8), and
make absolutely certain that the race
seats squarely into the inner recess of
the distance piece.
(h) Slide the right-hand side roller race on
to the spindle and seat it squarely into
the inner recess of the distance piece
(8).
(i) Refit the bearing cup with the open end
facing inwards. It may be necessary to
reheat the hub to allow the cup to go
into position without difficulty.
Press the cup into position, but do not
crush the bearings together, leave some
end-play.
(j) If the brake drum has been removed,
refit it at this stage of re-assembly.
(k) Refit the inner spacer (12).
(1) Refit brake cover plate complete with
brake shoes.
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(c)
Before completing the assembly of the
hub. the bearings must be adjusted.
For details see:
Maintenance Instruction 502.
NOTE After adjusting the bearing and before
tightening the circular lock nut (13),
the hub cover disc must be placed in the correct
position, that is, the hole in the disc face must
be in line with the grease nipple located in the
hub shell so that a grease-gun nozzle can be
inserted through the hole and engaged with the
nipple.
When the correct position has been found,
tighten the lock nut (13)
(q) Push the speedometer gearbox on to its
sleeve (2) and ensure that the dogs
engage with the slots in the adjusting
sleeve (14).
(r) Refit the lock-nut (16) but leave it slack.
(s) Refit the wheel in the frame and check
that the bearing adjustment is correct.
Readjust if it is incorrect.
(t) Position the speedometer gearbox with
the cross-piece uppermost and lying
approximately horizontal.
Tighten the lock nut (16) and refit
the speedometer driving cable.
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