Official Software
Get notified when we add a new AcuraNSX Manual

We cover 60 Acura vehicles, were you looking for one of these?

Acura TSX 2003-2008 Service Repair Manual PDF
2006-2009 Acura CSX Service Repair Manual PDF
2007 Acura MDX Service Repair Manual PDF
2001-2006--Acura--TL--6 Cylinders 3.2L MFI SOHC--32640001
Acura Rdx Workshop Manual (L4-2.3L Turbo (2008))
Acura Mdx Workshop Manual (V6-3471cc 3.5L (2002))
2001-2006--Acura--TSX--4 Cylinders 2.4L MFI DOHC--32984001
2001-2006--Acura--RL--6 Cylinders 3.5L FI SOHC--32983701
Acura - RDX - Workshop Manual - 2013 - 2013
Acura - MDX - Workshop Manual - 2008 - 2009
2001-2006--Acura--RL--6 Cylinders 3.5L MFI SOHC--32884201
Acura Tl Workshop Manual (V6-3206cc 3.2L SOHC MFI (1998))
Acura Mdx Workshop Manual (V6-3.7L (2007))
Acura Tsx Workshop Manual (L4-2.4L (2005))
Acura Rdx Awd Workshop Manual (L4-2.3L Turbo (2010))
Acura Rl Workshop Manual (V6-3.5L (2007))
Acura Rl Workshop Manual (V6-3474cc 3.5L (1998))
Acura - MDX - Sales Brochure - 2010 - 2010
Acura Tsx Sedan Workshop Manual (V6-3.5L (2011))
Acura Tl Fwd Workshop Manual (V6-3.5L (2009))
Acura - MDX - Workshop Manual - (2002)
Acura - TSX - Workshop Manual - 2004 - 2008
Acura Rl Workshop Manual (V6-3.7L (2009))
Acura - MDX - Owners Manual - 2013 - 2013
Acura - TSX - Workshop Manual - 2005 - 2007
Acura Tl Workshop Manual (V6-3.2L (2004))
Acura Tl Awd Workshop Manual (V6-3.7L (2010))
Acura 3.2tl Type S Workshop Manual (V6-3.2L SOHC (2002))
Acura TL 2004 2006 UA6 Service Repair Manual PDF
Acura - RDX - Sales Brochure - 2018 - 2018
Cars & Automotive Accessories - Acura - Acura MDX 2002
Acura - MDX - Parts catalogue - 2016 - 2016
Acura - TL - Workshop Manual - 2002 - 2008
Acura Tl Workshop Manual (V6-3.5L (2007))
Acura - TSX - Owners Manual - 2008 - 2014
Acura Tl Workshop Manual (L5-2451cc 2.5L SOHC G25A4 FI (1995))
Cars & Automotive Accessories - Acura - Acura MDX 2003
Acura Tl Workshop Manual (L5-2451cc 2.5L SOHC MFI (1997))
Cars & Automotive Accessories - Acura - Acura MDX 2004
Acura - RLX - Wiring Diagram - 1998 - 1998
Acura - TSX - Workshop Manual - (2005)
Acura 3.5rl Workshop Manual (V6-3474cc 3.5L (2001))
Acura - TSX - Owners Manual - 2011 - 2013
Cars & Automotive Accessories - Acura - Acura TSX 2004
Acura - Auto - acura-rdx-2015-guide-du-proprietaire-57506
Acura - RL - Owners Manual - 2009 - 2009
Acura - RDX - Sales Brochure - 2013 - 2013
Cars & Automotive Accessories - Acura - Acura MDX 2006
Cars & Automotive Accessories - Acura - Acura MDX 2001
Acura - TL - Workshop Manual - 2008 - 2008
Acura - TSX - Owners Manual - 2013 - 2014
Acura - TSX Factsheet - Other Document - 2014 - 2014
Cars & Automotive Accessories - Acura - Acura MDX 2008
Acura - RDX - Parts catalogue - 2007 - 2009
1986-1993--Acura--Vigor--5 Cylinders 2.5L MFI SOHC--31890401
Acura - RDX - Sales Brochure - 2017 - 2017
1986-1993--Acura--Vigor--5 Cylinders 2.5L MFI SOHC--31749801
Cars & Automotive Accessories - Acura - Acura MDX 2005
Cars & Automotive Accessories - Acura - Acura TL 2004
Acura Cl Workshop Manual (L4-2254cc 2.3L SOHC (VTEC) MFI (1998))
Summary of Content
General Information And Maintenance Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Do's Print Do keep a fire extinguisher and first aid kit handy. Do wear safety glasses or goggles when cutting, drilling, grinding or prying, even if you have 20-20 vision. If you wear glasses for the sake of vision, wear safety goggles over your regular glasses. Do shield your eyes whenever you work around the battery. Batteries contain sulfuric acid. In case of contact with the eyes or skin, flush the area with water or a mixture of water and baking soda, then seek immediate medical attention. Do use safety stands (jackstands) for any undervehicle service. Jacks are for raising vehicles; jackstands are for making sure the vehicle stays raised until you want it to come down. Whenever the vehicle is raised, block the wheels remaining on the ground and set the parking brake. Do use adequate ventilation when working with any chemicals or hazardous materials. Like carbon monoxide, the asbestos dust resulting from some brake lining wear can be hazardous in sufficient quantities. Do disconnect the negative battery cable when working on the electrical system. The secondary ignition system contains EXTREMELY HIGH VOLTAGE. In some cases it can even exceed 50,000 volts. Do follow manufacturer's directions whenever working with potentially hazardous materials. Most chemicals and fluids are poisonous if taken internally. Do properly maintain your tools. Loose hammerheads, mushroomed punches and chisels, frayed or poorly grounded electrical cords, excessively worn screwdrivers, spread wrenches (open end), cracked sockets, slipping ratchets, or faulty droplight sockets can cause accidents. Likewise, keep your tools clean; a greasy wrench can slip off a bolt head, ruining the bolt and often harming your knuckles in the process. Do use the proper size and type of tool for the job at hand. Do select a wrench or socket that fits the nut or bolt. The wrench or socket should sit straight, not cocked. Do, when possible, pull on a wrench handle rather than push on it, and adjust your stance to prevent a fall. Do be sure that adjustable wrenches are tightly closed on the nut or bolt and pulled so that the force is on the side of the fixed jaw. Do strike squarely with a hammer; avoid glancing blows. Do set the parking brake and block the drive wheels if the work requires a running engine. Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Don'ts Print Don't run the engine in a garage or anywhere else without proper ventilation-EVER! Carbon monoxide is poisonous; it takes a long time to leave the human body and you can build up a deadly supply of it in your system by simply breathing in a little every day. You may not realize you are slowly poisoning yourself. Always use power vents, windows, fans and/or open the garage door. Don't work around moving parts while wearing loose clothing. Short sleeves are much safer than long, loose sleeves. Hard-toed shoes with neoprene soles protect your toes and give a better grip on slippery surfaces. Jewelry such as watches, fancy belt buckles, beads or body adornment of any kind is not safe working around a vehicle. Long hair should be tied back under a hat or cap. Don't use pockets for toolboxes. A fall or bump can drive a screwdriver deep into your body. Even a rag hanging from your back pocket can wrap around a spinning shaft or fan. Don't smoke when working around gasoline, cleaning solvent or other flammable material. Don't smoke when working around the battery. When the battery is being charged, it gives off explosive hydrogen gas. Don't use gasoline to wash your hands; there are excellent soaps available. Gasoline contains dangerous additives which can enter the body through a cut or through your pores. Gasoline also removes all the natural oils from the skin so that bone dry hands will suck up oil and grease. Don't service the air conditioning system unless you are equipped with the necessary tools and training. When liquid or compressed gas refrigerant is released to atmospheric pressure it will absorb heat from whatever it contacts. This will chill or freeze anything it touches. Don't use screwdrivers for anything other than driving screws! A screwdriver used as an prying tool can snap when you least expect it, causing injuries. At the very least, you'll ruin a good screwdriver. Don't use an emergency jack (that little ratchet, scissors, or pantograph jack supplied with the vehicle) for anything other than changing a flat! These jacks are only intended for emergency use out on the road; they are NOT designed as a maintenance tool. If you are serious about maintaining 1 your vehicle yourself, invest in a hydraulic floor jack of at least a 1 / 2 ton capacity, and at least two sturdy jackstands. Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information SERVICING YOUR VEHICLE SAFELY It is virtually impossible to anticipate all of the hazards involved with automotive maintenance and service, but care and common sense will prevent most accidents. Print The rules of safety for mechanics range from "don't smoke around gasoline," to "use the proper tool(s) for the job." The trick to avoiding injuries is to develop safe work habits and to take every possible precaution. See Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4 Fig. Fig. 1: Screwdrivers should be kept in good condition to prevent injury or damage which could result if the blade slips from the screw Fig. Fig. 2: Power tools should always be properly grounded Fig. Fig. 3: Using the correct size wrench will help prevent the possibility of rounding off a nut Fig. Fig. 4: NEVER work under a vehicle unless it is supported using safety stands (jackstands) Back to Top Engine Performance And Tune-up Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Adjustments The programmed ignition system provides the best control of the ignition timing therefore there is no need for adjustment. Print Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Camshaft Position Sensor Refer to Electronic Engine Controls in Emission Controls for information on servicing the camshaft position sensor. Print Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Crankshaft Position Sensor Refer to Electronic Engine Controls in Emission Controls for information on servicing the crankshaft position sensor. Print Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Diagnosis and Testing To test the ignition system, perform the test procedures in a particular sequence. Start with the secondary spark test, commence to the coil test (located under the coil procedures later in this section) and, finally, perform the failure-to-start test. Performing the tests in this order will narrow down the ignition system problem in the easiest manner. SECONDARY SPARK TEST CAUTION The Distributorless Ignition System generates approximately 40,000 volts. Personal injury could result from contact with this system. 1. Remove the cable from the No. 1 spark plug, then insert a clean spark plug into the spark plug boot. Due to the high secondary voltage and risk of electrical shock, it is advisable to wrap a thick, dry cloth around the boot before grasping it. Print WARNING 1 Spark plug wire damage may occur if the spark plug is moved more than /4in. (6mm) away from the engine ground. 2. Ground the plug to the engine (touch the spark plug metal body to the engine block or other piece of metal on the car). See Figure 1 Fig. Fig. 1: When checking for spark, always ground the plug to a known good source. 3. Crank the engine and look for a strong, blue spark across the electrodes of the spark plug. 4. Repeat the test for the remaining cylinders. If there is no spark during all cylinder tests, refer to the failure-to-start test. If one or more tests indicate irregular, weak or no spark, refer to the coil test. Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information General Information See Figures 1 and 2 Print Fig. Fig. 1: Ignition system components-3.2L engine shown Fig. Fig. 2: Ignition system components-3.5L engine shown Many Acura models are equipped with a distributorless ignition system. This system is still considered a Programmed Ignition (PGM-IG) system. The basic difference is that the distributorless system incorporates one ignition coil per cylinder as opposed to the distributor type system, which uses one ignition coil for the entire system. System operation is accomplished when the ignition switch is in the RUN or START position. Battery current is applied through each of the ignition coils to the ignition control module. The ignition control module acts as a switch to control current through the primary windings of the ignition coils. This module is controlled by the PGM-FI electronic unit. When current to the ignition coil is stopped, a high voltage current flows to the spark plug. The ignition system is controlled by inputs to the PGM-FI electronic control unit. The inputs include; detonation, engine RPM, accelerator position, coolant temperature, ignition timing adjustment, manifold pressure, crankshaft position and exhaust oxygen content. Traction control and the automatic transmission also affect the ignition system. Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Ignition Coil Pack TESTING 3.2L engine Print See Figure 1 Fig. Fig. 1: Checking the ignition coil on a 3.2L engine 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the ignition coil. In order to get to the ignition coil at the No. 6 cylinder, it may be necessary to remove the A/C suction line mounting bolts to enable the line to be moved over slightly. This will provide adequate access to the coil. 3. Remove the two wire connector that feeds the coil battery voltage. 4. Use an ohmmeter to check the primary coil resistance between the two terminals on the coil. Resistance should be between 0.9-1.1 ohms. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) idle memory must be reset after reconnecting the battery. Start the engine and hold it at 3000 rpm until the cooling fan comes on. Then allow the engine to idle for about five minutes with all accessories OFF and with the transmission in Park or Neutral. 5. Reconnect the negative battery cable. 3.5L engine See Figure 2 Fig. Fig. 2: Test the ignition coil by measuring resistance between terminals 1 & 2-3.5L engine 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the strut brace by unscrewing the 4 nuts and one bolt. 3. Remove the engine cover. 4. Remove the ignition coil. 5. Measure the resistance of the coil between terminals 1 and 2. Primary winding resistance should be between 0.9-1.1 ohms. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) idle memory must be reset after reconnecting the battery. Start the engine and hold it at 3000 rpm until the cooling fan comes on. Then allow the engine to idle for about five minutes with all accessories OFF and with the transmission in Park or Neutral. 6. Reconnect the negative battery cable. REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the wiring harness from the coil. 3. Remove the ignition coil wire. 4. Remove the ignition coil by removing the mounting bolts. 5. Remove the ignition coil. 6. Install is the reverse of the removal procedure. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) idle memory must be reset after reconnecting the battery. Start the engine and hold it at 3000 rpm until the cooling fan comes on. Then allow the engine to idle for about five minutes with all accessories OFF and with the transmission in Park or Neutral. Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Ignition Control Module (ICM) REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Detach all of the electrical connectors that are located at the top of the Ignition Control Module (ICM). 3. Remove the mounting bolts, then remove the ICM from the vehicle. 4. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) idle memory must be reset after reconnecting the battery. Start the engine and hold it at 3000 rpm until the cooling fan comes on. Then allow the engine to idle for about five minutes with all accessories OFF and with the transmission in Park or Neutral. Back to Top Engine And Engine Overhaul Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Camshaft REMOVAL & INSTALLATION The radio may have a coded theft protection circuit. Make sure you have the code before disconnecting the battery, removing the radio fuse, or removing the radio. 1.8L (B18B1) Engines See Figures 1 through 6 Fig. Fig. 1: Pull the caps away from the camshaft and place them in order on a piece of cardboard. Print Fig. Fig. 2: Carefully lift the camshaft from the cylinder head. Fig. Fig. 3: Remove the camshaft cap bolts Fig. Fig. 4: Pull the caps away from the camshaft and place them in order on a piece of cardboard Fig. Fig. 5: Carefully lift the camshaft from the cylinder head Fig. Fig. 6: Keep the correct camshaft with the appropriate caps at all times 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Tag and disconnect the spark plug wires. 3. Remove the cylinder head cover and timing belt cover. 4. Rotate the crankshaft to Top Dead Center (TDC), compression of No. 1 piston and remove the timing belt. 5. Remove the distributor from the cylinder head. 6. Install 5.0mm pin punches to the No.1 camshaft holders, then remove the camshaft sprockets. 7. Loosen the valve adjusters to remove as much spring tension as possible. 8. Remove the pin punches from the camshaft holders. To install: 9. Check the following before installing the camshafts: A. Be certain the keyways on the camshafts are facing UP (No. 1 cylinder at TDC). B. The valve adjuster lock nuts should be loosened and the adjusting screws backed off before installation. 10. Lubricate the rocker arms and camshafts with clean oil. 11. Place the rocker arms on the pivot bolts and the valve stems, making sure that the rocker arms are in their original positions. 12. Install the camshaft seals with the open side (spring) facing in. Lubricate the lip of the seal. 13. Be sure the keyways on the camshafts are facing up and install the camshafts to the cylinder head. 14. Apply liquid gasket to the head mating surfaces of the No. 1 and No. 6 camshaft holders, then install them along with No. 2, 3, 4 and 5 camshaft holders. The arrows stamped on the holders should point toward the timing belt. Do not apply oil to the holder mating surface where the camshaft seals are housed. 15. Tighten the camshaft holders temporarily and be sure that the rocker arms are properly positioned. 16. Press the oil seals into the No.1 camshaft holders with a seal driver. 17. Tighten the bolts in a crisscross pattern to 7 ft. lbs. (10 Nm). Check that the rockers do not bind on the valves. 18. Install the cylinder head plug to the end of the cylinder head. If the plug has alignment marks, align the marks with the cylinder head upper surface. 19. If equipped with a timing belt back cover, install the cover and tighten the bolts to 7.2 ft. lbs. (9.8 Nm). 20. Install 5.0mm pin punches to the No.1 camshaft holders, then install the camshaft pulley keys onto the grooves in the camshafts. 21. Push the camshaft pulleys onto the camshafts, then tighten the retaining bolts to 27 ft. lbs. (38 Nm). 22. Install the timing belt and timing belt covers. Remove the pin punches from the camshaft holders. 23. Adjust the valves and pour oil over the camshafts and rocker arms. 24. Install the cylinder head cover and engine ground cable. 25. Install the distributor to the cylinder head and reconnect the spark plug wires to the spark plugs. 26. Connect the negative battery cable and enter the radio security code. 27. Change the engine oil. Wait at least 20 minutes for the sealant to cure before filling the engine with oil. 1.8L (B18C1, B18C5) Engines 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Be sure the crankshaft is at Top Dead Center (TDC), compression on No. 1 cylinder, by aligning the white mark on the crankshaft pulley with the pointer on the lower timing belt cover. 3. Remove the strut brace. 4. Remove the cylinder head cover, timing belt cover, and timing belt. 5. Remove the camshaft pulleys and back cover. 6. Loosen the rocker arm lock nuts and adjusting screws. 7. Remove the camshaft holder bolts, then remove the camshaft holder plates, the camshaft holders, and camshafts. See Figure 7 Fig. Fig. 7: Camshaft holder plates torque sequence-1.8L (B18C1, B18C5) engines To install: 8. Be sure that the keyways on the camshafts are facing up and that the rocker arms are in their original position. The valve lock nuts should be loosened and the adjusting screw backed off before installation 9. Install the camshafts, then install the camshaft seals with the open side facing in. Install the rubber cap with liquid gasket applied. 10. Install a new O-ring and the dowel pin to the oil passage of the No. 3 camshaft holder. 11. Apply liquid gasket to the head of the mating surfaces of the No. 1 and No. 5 camshaft holders, then install them, along with No. 2, 3, and 4. Be sure to pay attention to the following points: Do not apply oil to the holder mating surface of camshaft seals. The arrows marked on the camshaft holders should point to the timing belt. 12. Tighten the camshaft holders temporarily. Be sure that the rocker arms are properly positioned on the valve stems. 13. Tighten the camshaft holder bolts in two steps, following the proper sequence, to ensure that the rockers do not bind on the valves. Tighten the 8x1.25mm bolts to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm). Tighten the 6 x 1.0mm bolts to 84 inch lbs. (10 Nm). 14. Install the keys into the camshaft grooves. To set the No. 1 piston at TDC, align the holes on the camshaft with the holes in the No. 1 camshaft holders and insert 5.0mm pin punches into the holes. 15. Install the back cover and push the camshaft pulleys onto the camshafts, then tighten the retaining bolts to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm). Install the timing belt and adjust the tension, then install the timing belt covers. 16. Adjust the valve clearance. 17. Install the cylinder head cover. Be sure that the seal and groove are thoroughly clean first. 18. Install the engine side mount, tighten the two new nuts and new bolt to the engine to 38 ft. lbs. (52 Nm) and tighten the bolt attaching the mount to the vehicle to 54 ft. lbs. (74 Nm). 19. Install the distributor to the cylinder head and reconnect the spark plug wires to the spark plugs. 20. Install the intake air duct. 21. Install the strut brace, tighten the nuts to 17 ft. lbs. (24 Nm). 22. Connect the negative battery cable and enter the radio security code. 23. Drain the engine oil. Wait at least 20 minutes before filling the engine with oil; the time delay allows the sealant to cure. 2.2L, 2.3L Engines 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Turn the crankshaft so the No. 1 piston is at Top Dead Center (TDC). The No. 1 piston is at top dead center when the pointer on the block aligns with the white painted mark on the flywheel (manual transaxle) or driveplate (automatic transaxle). 3. Remove the air intake duct. 4. Remove the engine ground cable from the cylinder head cover. 5. Remove the connector and the terminal from the alternator, then remove the engine wiring harness from the valve cover. 6. Remove the ignition coil. 7. Label, then detach the electrical connectors from the distributor and the spark plug wires from the spark plugs. Mark the position of the distributor and remove it from the cylinder head. Disconnect the ignition coil wire from the distributor. 8. Remove the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) hose, then remove the cylinder head cover. Replace the rubber seals if damaged or deteriorated. 9. Remove the timing belt middle cover. 10. Ensure the words UP embossed on the camshaft pulleys are aligned in the upward position. 11. Mark the rotation of the timing belt if it is to be used again. Loosen the timing belt adjusting nut 1 / 2 turn, then release the tension on the timing belt. Push the tensioner to release tension from the belt, then tighten the adjusting nut. 12. Remove the timing belt from the camshaft sprockets. WARNING Do not crimp or bend the timing belt more than 90° or less, then 1 in. (25mm) in diameter See Figure 8 Fig. Fig. 8: Exploded view of the cylinder head and related components-2.3L engine 13. Remove the side engine mount bracket, then the timing belt back cover from behind the camshaft sprockets. 14. Loosen all of the rocker arm adjusting screws, then remove the pin punches from the camshaft caps. 15. Remove the camshaft holders, note the holders locations for ease of installation. Loosen the bolts in the reverse order of the installation. 16. Remove the camshafts from the cylinder head, then discard the camshaft seals. 17. Remove the rubber cap from the head, located at the end of the intake camshaft. 18. Remove the rocker arms from the cylinder head. Note the locations of the rocker arms. The rocker arms have to be installed to their original locations if being reused. To install: 19. Lubricate the rocker arms with clean oil, then install the rocker arms on the pivot bolts and the valve stems. If the rocker arms are being reused, install them to their original locations. The lock nuts and adjustment screws should be loosened before installing the rocker arms. 20. Lubricate the camshafts with clean oil. 21. Install the camshaft seals to the end of the camshafts that the timing belt sprockets attach to. The open side (spring) should be facing into the cylinder head when installed. 22. Be sure the keyways on the camshaft is facing up and install the camshaft to the cylinder head. 23. Apply liquid gasket to the head mating surfaces of the No. 1 and No. 5 camshaft holders, then install them along with No. 2, 3 and 4. 24. Snug the camshaft holders in place. 25. Press the camshaft seals securely into place. 26. Tighten the camshaft holder bolts in two steps, following the proper sequence, to ensure that the rockers do not bind on the valves. Tighten all the 6 mm bolts to 104 inch lbs. (12 Nm). Tighten the 8 mm bolts to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm). See Figure 9 Fig. Fig. 9: Camshaft holder torque sequence-2.3L engine 27. Install the timing belt back cover. 28. Install the side engine mount bracket B. Tighten the bolt attaching the bracket to the cylinder head to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm). Tighten the bolts attaching the bracket to the side engine mount to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm). 29. Push the camshaft sprocket onto the camshaft, then tighten the retaining bolt to 43 ft. lbs. (59 Nm). 30. Ensure the words UP embossed on the camshaft pulley is aligned in the upward position. Install the timing belt to the camshaft sprocket. See Figure 10 Fig. Fig. 10: Camshaft sprocket alignment-2.3L engine 31. Loosen, then tighten the timing belt adjuster nut. 32. Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise until the cam pulley has moved 3 teeth; this creates tension on the timing belt. Loosen, then tighten the adjusting nut and tighten it to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm). 33. Adjust the valves. 34. Tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to 181 ft. lbs. (250 Nm). 35. Install the middle timing belt cover and tighten the attaching bolts to 104 inch lbs. (12 Nm). 36. Install the cylinder head cover and tighten the cap nuts to 104 inch lbs. (12 Nm). Install the PCV hose to the cylinder head cover. 37. Install the distributor to the cylinder head. 38. Connect the spark plug wires to the correct spark plugs, then attach the distributor electrical connectors. Install the ignition coil wire to the distributor. 39. Install the ignition coil. 40. Install the alternator wiring harness to the cylinder head cover, then attach the terminal and connector to the alternator. 41. Connect the engine ground cable to the cylinder head cover. 42. Install the air intake duct. 43. Drain the oil from the engine into a sealable container. Install the drain plug and refill the engine with clean oil. 44. Connect the negative battery cable and enter the radio security code. 45. Start the engine, checking carefully for any leaks. 46. Enter the radio security code. 2.5L Engine 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the timing belt covers and cylinder head covers. 2. Rotate the crankshaft to Top Dead Center (TDC) compression of No. 1 piston and remove the timing belt. 3. Remove the camshaft sprocket. 4. Remove the cylinder head from the vehicle. 5. Loosen the rocker shaft holder bolts 1 turn at a time in the opposite of the installation sequence. Following this procedure will prevent the camshafts and rocker assemblies from warping. 6. After all bolts are loose, remove the rocker arm shafts as an assembly with the bolts still in the holders. 7. If the rocker shafts are to be disassembled, note that each rocker arm has a letter A or B stamped into the side. Before disassembling the rocker arms, make a note of the position of each letter so the arms can be reassembled the same way. The springs between the rocker arms are not all the same length. Carefully note their positions during disassembly. To install: See Figure 11 Fig. Fig. 11: Camshaft and rocker arm assembly-2.5L engine 8. Lubricate the camshaft and its journals with fresh engine oil. 9. Place a new camshaft seal on the end of the camshaft. The spring side of the seal must face in. Lubricate the journals and set the camshaft in place on the head. 10. Install the camshaft onto the cylinder head with the keyway pointed up. 11. Apply liquid gasket to the mounting surfaces of the camshaft end holders. 12. Set the rocker arm assemblies in place and start all the cam holder bolts. Be sure the rocker arms are properly positioned and turn each bolt in sequence two turns at a time until the holders are seated on the head. Follow this procedure to avoid damaging the camshaft and rocker assemblies. 13. When all of the camshaft and rocker holders are seated, tighten the bolts in the same sequence. Tighten the 8mm bolts to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm) and the 6mm bolts to 104 inch lbs. (12 Nm). 14. Install the cylinder head. 15. Install the camshaft sprocket and tighten the bolts to 51 ft. lbs. (70 Nm). 16. Install the timing belt, adjust the valves and oil the camshaft before completing the assembly. 17. Install the cylinder head cover and timing cover. 18. Install the distributor. 19. Reconnect the negative battery cable. 20. Check for proper engine and valve train operation. 3.0L Engine 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the timing belt and cylinder head as outlined earlier in this section. 3. Remove the camshaft sprocket and rear cover. 4. Remove the rocker arm/shaft assembly. 5. Remove the camshaft thrust cover and O-ring. 6. Carefully pull out the camshaft. See Figure 12 Fig. Fig. 12: Camshaft installation-3.0L engine To install: 7. Lubricate the camshaft with clean engine oil. 8. Carefully slide the camshaft into position. 9. Install the thrust plate using a new O-ring. Tighten the bolts to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm). 10. Install the rocker arm/shaft assembly. 11. Install the cylinder head. 12. Install the rear cover and camshaft sprocket. Tighten the bolt to 67 ft. lbs. (90 Nm). 13. Install the timing belt. 14. Adjust the valves. 3.2L and 3.5L Engines 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the timing belt covers and cylinder head covers. 3. Rotate the crankshaft to Top Dead Center (TDC) for the No. 1 piston and remove the timing belt. 4. Remove the camshaft sprockets. 5. Loosen the rocker shaft holder bolts one turn at a time in the reverse of the torque sequence to avoid damaging the valves, camshafts, or rocker assemblies. 6. After all bolts are loose, remove the rocker arm shafts as an assembly with the bolts still in the holders. See Figures 13 and 14 Fig. Fig. 13: Loosen the camshaft holder bolts in the specified sequence-3.5L engine Fig. Fig. 14: Camshaft and rocker arm assembly-3.2L engines 7. If the rocker shafts are to be disassembled, note that each rocker arm has a letter A or B stamped into the side. Before disassembling the rocker arms, make a note of the position of each letter so that the arms can be reassembled in the same position. 8. Do not remove the hydraulic tappets from the rocker arms unless they are to be replaced. Handle the rocker arms carefully so the oil does not drain out of the tappets. 9. Lift the camshafts from the cylinder head, wipe them clean and inspect the lift ramps. Replace the camshafts and rockers if the lobes are pitted, scored, or excessively worn. To install: 10. Place a new seal on the end of the camshaft, lubricate the journals and set the camshaft in place on the head. The pin hole in the front of the camshaft designates the top position. See Figure 15 Fig. Fig. 15: Camshaft holder bolt tightening sequence-3.2L engine 11. Apply liquid gasket to the mounting surfaces of the camshaft end holders. 12. Set the rocker arm assemblies in place and start all of the camshaft holder bolts. Be sure the rocker arms are properly positioned and turn each bolt in sequence two turns at a time until the holders are seated on the head to avoid damaging the valves or rocker assemblies. 13. When all the camshaft and rocker holders are seated, tighten the bolts in the same sequence. Tighten the 8mm bolts to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm) and the 6mm bolts to 104 inch lbs. (12 Nm). 14. Install the camshaft pulleys and tighten the bolts to 23 ft. lbs. (32 Nm). See Figure 16 Fig. Fig. 16: Tighten the camshaft holder bolts in the specified sequence-3.5L engine 15. Install the timing belt and pour oil over the camshafts. 16. Install the cylinder head cover and reassemble accessory components. 17. Verify that all electrical connections and vacuum lines are connected. 18. Reconnect the negative battery cable. 19. Run the engine and check for leaks and proper operation. INSPECTION 4-Cylinder Engines 1. Thoroughly clean all parts. Inspect the camshaft journals for scoring. Check the oil feed holes in the cylinder head for blockage. Check the camshaft bearing journals for scoring. If light scratches are present, they may be removed with 400 grit abrasive paper. If deep scratches are present, replace the camshaft and check the cylinder head for damage. Replace the cylinder head if worn or damaged. 2. If the camshaft lobes show signs of wear, check the corresponding rocker arm roller for wear or damage. If the camshaft lobes show signs of pitting on the nose, flank or base circle, replace the camshaft. 6-Cylinder Engines 1. Inspect the camshafts carefully for scratches or worn areas. If light scratches are seen, they may be removed with 400 grit sandpaper. If there are deep scratches, replace the camshaft. 2. Inspect the cylinder head for damage. 3. Check the oil feed holes to make sure they are open and free of debris. 4. If the camshaft lobes show signs of wear, check the corresponding rocker arm roller for wear or damage. Replace the rocker arm if worn or damaged. If the camshaft shows signs of wear on the lobes, replace it. 5. Check camshaft end-play. Oil the camshaft journals with clean engine oil and install the camshaft WITHOUT the rocker arm assemblies. Move the camshaft as far rearward as it will go. Mount a dial indicator to bear on the front of the camshaft. Zero the indicator. Move the camshaft as far forward as it will go. Check to see if the endplay is with in specs. Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Crankshaft Damper REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print See Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4 Fig. Fig. 1: Observe how the tool interlocks with the dampener Fig. Fig. 2: Side a socket through the opening in the tool and ensure that it engages with the dampener bolt Fig. Fig. 3: Removal of the bolt from the crankshaft-Integra Fig. Fig. 4: Remove the woodruff key from the crankshaft 1. Remove the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the splash shield from the wheel well. 3. Remove the adjusting and mounting bolts. 4. Remove the power steering pump belt. 5. Remove the adjusting bolt and idler pulley bracket bolt. 6. Remove the air conditioning compressor belt. 7. Remove the alternator belt. 8. To hold the crankshaft pulley still while you are removing the damper bolt, a Honda factory tool (#07MAB-PY3010A) or equivalent is required. However, it is also possible to construct your own tool by attaching a length of pipe to a 2 inch plumbing fitting as shown in the accompanying figure. See Figure 5 Fig. Fig. 5: A simple design consisting of a plumbing fitting welded to a pipe, saved this technician from purchasing the factory tool otherwise needed to hold the crankshaft 9. Remove the crankshaft damper. To install: 10. Install the damper the reverse order of removal. 11. Lubricate the damper bolt with engine oil before installation. 12. Torque the damper pulley bolt to 130 ft. lbs. (177 Nm) on 1.8L engines, or to 181 ft. lbs. (245 Nm) on all other engines. 13. Connect the negative battery cable. Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Cylinder Head REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print The radio may have a coded theft protection circuit. Make sure you have the code before disconnecting the battery, removing the radio fuse, or removing the radio. 1.8L (B18B1) Engines 1. Before removing the cylinder head, be sure the engine temperature is below 100-- (38--); a fully cooled engine is best. 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 3. Be sure the crankshaft is at TDC on No. 1 cylinder by aligning the white mark on the crankshaft pulley with the pointer on the lower timing belt cover. See Figure 1 Fig. Fig. 1: Always align the timing marks before removing the timing belt. 4. Drain the engine coolant. Remove the radiator cap to speed draining. 5. Remove the intake air duct. 6. Properly relieve the fuel system pressure, as outlined in Fuel System . 7. Disconnect the fuel feed hose. Be sure to mark all connectors and vacuum hoses before disconnecting them. 8. Disconnect the breather hose, water bypass hose and the evaporative emission control canister hose. 9. Remove the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) hose and the fuel return hose. 10. Remove the brake booster vacuum hose, water bypass and EVAP (Evaporative emissions) purge control solenoid vacuum hose. 11. Remove the throttle cable. Remove the throttle control cable (automatic transaxle only). Be careful not to bend the cables when removing them. 12. Remove the wiring harness clamps, then label and detach the following: Four fuel injector connectors Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor connector Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor connector Ignition coil connector Throttle Position (TP) sensor connector Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor connector Idle Air Control (IAC) valve connector Purge control solenoid valve connector 13. Disconnect the upper radiator hose, heater hose and water bypass hose. 14. Remove the splash shield. 15. Remove the power steering adjusting and mounting bolts, then remove the power steering pump and belt. Do not disconnect the power steering hoses. 16. Remove the air conditioning belts and the compressor, then remove the cruise control actuator. 17. Remove the engine side mount. 18. Remove the cylinder head cover, timing belt cover, and timing belt. See Figure 2 Fig. Fig. 2: Removal of the timing belt 19. Remove the camshaft pulleys and back cover. See Figures 3, 4 and 5 Fig. Fig. 3: Removing the camshaft sprocket bolt ... Fig. Fig. 4: ... then remove the camshaft sprocket Fig. Fig. 5: The woodruff keeps the camshaft pulley from spinning on the camshaft 20. Remove the exhaust manifold cover, bracket, and exhaust manifold. See Figure 6 Fig. Fig. 6: The exhaust manifold gasket may be stuck to the head 21. Remove the bolts attaching the intake manifold to the support bracket. 22. Remove the nuts attaching the intake manifold to the cylinder head. Remove the nuts in a crisscross pattern, beginning from the center and moving out to both ends. It may be more timely to remove the head and then the intake manifold. This method will provide easier access to any hidden intake manifold bolts. 23. Remove the manifold and the old gasket. 24. Loosen the lock nuts and adjusting screws, then remove the camshaft holder bolts. Remove the camshaft holders, camshafts and rocker arms. See Figures 7 through 13 Fig. Fig. 7: Remove the camshaft holder bolts. Notice that the caps are marked (E1) for exhaust camshaft cap #1 and (I1) for intake camshaft #1 Fig. Fig. 8: Lift the camshaft cap away from the camshaft as shown Fig. Fig. 9: Make sure to keep the caps, and all components in order at all times Fig. Fig. 10: Evenly lift the camshaft from the head Fig. Fig. 11: Note the location of the camshaft oil seal Fig. Fig. 12: Remove the valve adjusters-Integra Fig. Fig. 13: To ensure they are installed in the proper position on the head, place each valve adjuster in the correct slot of the cardboard keeper as shown 25. Remove the cylinder head bolts, then remove the cylinder head. To prevent warpage, unscrew the bolts in the reverse of the torque sequence, 1 /3 turn at a time. Repeat the sequence until all bolts are loosened. Remember that cylinder head bolts are under great stress, exercise caution whenever you apply extreme force to these bolts. 26. Remove and discard the gasket, thoroughly clean the gasket mating surfaces. To install: 27. Install the cylinder head onto the engine block, after making sure the mating surface was cleaned and a new gasket was installed. Be sure to pay attention to the following points: Be sure the No. 1 cylinder is at top dead center and the camshaft pulley UP mark is on the top before positioning the head in place. The cylinder head dowel pins and oil control orifice must be cleaned and aligned. Replace the washer when damaged or deteriorated. Apply engine oil to the cylinder head bolts and the washers. Use the longer cylinder head bolts at the No. 1 and No. 2 positions. See Figures 14 and 15 Fig. Fig. 14: Cylinder head bolt torque sequence-1.8L (B18B1) engines Fig. Fig. 15: Properly torque all of the head bolts in the correct order 28. Tighten the cylinder head bolts in two steps. In the first step tighten all bolts in sequence to 22 ft. lbs. (29 Nm), then in the second step tighten all bolts in the same sequence to 63 ft. lbs. (85 Nm). 29. Use new gaskets and install the intake manifold onto the cylinder head. Tighten the nuts in a crisscross pattern in 2-3 steps, beginning in the middle to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm). 30. Install and tighten the intake manifold bracket bolts to 17 ft. lbs. (24 Nm). 31. Install the exhaust manifold and tighten the new self-locking nuts in a crisscross pattern in 2-3 steps, beginning with the inner nuts. Tighten the nuts to 23 ft. lbs. (31 Nm). Install a new exhaust pipe gasket and tighten the new nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). 32. Be sure that the keyways on the camshafts are facing up and that the rocker arms are in their original position. The valve lock nuts should be loosened and the adjusting screw backed off before installation. 33. Place the rocker arms on the pivot bolts and the valve stems. 34. Install the camshafts, then install the camshaft seals with the open side facing in. Install the rubber cap with liquid gasket applied. If the rubber cap has two horizontal marks, align the marks with the cylinder head upper surface. 35. Apply liquid gasket to the cylinder head mating surfaces of the No. 1 and No. 6 intake and exhaust camshaft holders and install them, along with No. 2, 3, 4 and 5. Be sure to pay attention to the following points: "I" or "E" marks are stamped on the camshaft holders. Do not apply oil to the holder mating surface of camshaft seals. The arrows marked on the camshaft holders should point to the timing belt. 36. Tighten the camshaft holders temporarily. Be sure that the rocker arms are properly positioned on the valve stems. 37. Tighten each bolt in 2 steps to ensure that the rockers do not bind on the valves. Tighten the 6mm bolts to 86 inch lbs. (9.8 Nm) working from the middle outward. 38. Install the keys into the camshaft grooves. To set the No. 1 piston at TDC, align the holes on the camshaft with the holes in the No. 1 camshaft holders and insert 5.0mm pin punches into the holes. 39. Install the back cover and push the camshaft pulleys onto the camshafts, then tighten the retaining bolts to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm). Install the timing belt and adjust the tension, then install the timing belt covers. 40. Adjust the valve clearance. 41. Apply sealant to the corners of the outer camshaft journal gasket surfaces, install the cylinder head cover, and torque the fasteners to 86 inch lbs. (9.8 Nm). 42. Install the engine side mount, tighten the two new nuts and new bolt to the engine to 38 ft. lbs. (52 Nm) and tighten the bolt attaching the mount to the vehicle to 54 ft. lbs. (74 Nm). 43. The balance of installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. 44. Connect the negative battery cable and enter the radio security code. 45. After installation, check to see that all hoses and wires are installed correctly. 46. Fill and bleed the air from the cooling system. 47. Attach the negative battery cable. 48. Enter the radio security code. 1.8L (B18C1, B18C5) engines 1. Before removing the cylinder head, be sure the engine temperature is below 100° F degrees; a fully cooled engine is best. 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 3. Be sure the crankshaft is at TDC/compression on No. 1 cylinder. Align the white mark on the crankshaft pulley with the pointer on the lower timing belt cover. 4. Drain the engine coolant into a sealable container. Remove the radiator cap to speed draining. 5. Remove the strut brace. 6. Remove the intake air duct. 7. Properly relieve the fuel pressure. 8. Disconnect the fuel feed hose. 9. Be sure to mark all connectors and vacuum hoses before disconnecting them. Disconnect the Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) purge control solenoid vacuum hose and the EVAP control canister hose. 10. Remove the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) hose and the water bypass hose. 11. Remove the brake booster vacuum hose, and the fuel return hose. 12. Remove the throttle cable. Remove the throttle control cable (automatic transaxle only). Be careful not to bend the cables when removing them. 13. Remove the wiring harness clamps, then tag and detach the following: Four fuel injector connectors Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor connector Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor connector Top Dead Center (TDC) Crank Position (CKP) sensor and Camshaft Position (CYP) sensor connector Ignition coil connector Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) gauge sending unit connector Throttle Position (TP) sensor connector Variable Valve Timing and Electronic Lift Control (VTEC) solenoid connector VTEC pressure switch connector Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor connector Idle Air Control (IAC) valve connector Purge control solenoid valve connector Intake Air Bypass (IAB) control solenoid valve connector Crankshaft Speed Fluctuation (CKF) sensor connector 14. Remove the spark plug wires and distributor from the cylinder head. 15. Disconnect the upper radiator hose, heater hose and water bypass hose. 16. Remove the splash shield. 17. Remove the engine ground cable. 18. Remove the power steering adjusting and mounting bolts, then remove the power steering pump and belt. Do not disconnect the power steering hoses. 19. Remove the heat shield from the power steering bracket. 20. Remove the air conditioning compressor and alternator belts. 21. Remove the cruise control actuator. 22. Remove the engine side mount. 23. Remove the cylinder head cover, timing belt cover, and timing belt. 24. Remove the camshaft sprockets and back cover. 25. Remove the exhaust manifold cover, bracket, and exhaust manifold. 26. Remove the bolts attaching the intake manifold to the support bracket. 27. Remove the nuts attaching the intake manifold to the cylinder head. Remove the nuts in a crisscross pattern, beginning from the center and moving out to both ends. 28. Remove the manifold and the old gasket. 29. Remove the VTEC solenoid from the cylinder head. 30. Loosen the rocker arm lock nuts and adjusting screws. 31. Remove the camshaft holder bolts, then remove the camshaft holder plates, the camshaft holders, and camshafts. 32. Remove the cylinder head bolts, then remove the cylinder head. To prevent warpage, loosen the bolts in the reverse of the torque sequence 1/3 turn at a time. Repeat this sequence until all bolts are loosened. To install: 33. Install the cylinder head onto the engine block, after making sure the mating surface was cleaned and a new gasket was installed. Be sure to pay attention to the following points: Be sure the No. 1 cylinder is at top dead center and the camshaft pulley UP mark is on the top before positioning the head in place. The cylinder head dowel pins and oil control orifice must be cleaned and aligned. Replace the washer when damaged or deteriorated. Apply engine oil to the cylinder head bolts and the washers. Use the longer cylinder head bolts at the No. 1 and No. 2 positions. 34. Tighten the cylinder head bolts in two steps. In the first step tighten all bolts in sequence to 22 ft. lbs. (29 Nm). In the second step tighten all the bolts in the same sequence to 63 ft. lbs. (85 Nm). See Figures 16 and 17 Fig. Fig. 16: Cylinder head bolt torque sequence-1.8L (B18C1, B18C5) engine Fig. Fig. 17: Camshaft holder plate torque sequence-1.8L (B18C1, B18C5) engine 35. Use new gaskets and install the intake manifold onto the cylinder head; tighten the nuts in a crisscross pattern in 2-3 steps, beginning in the middle. Tighten the nuts to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm). 36. Install and tighten the intake manifold bracket bolts to 17 ft. lbs. (24 Nm). 37. Install the VTEC solenoid with a new filter, tighten the attaching bolts to 17 ft. lbs. (24 Nm). 38. Install the exhaust manifold and tighten the new self-locking nuts in a crisscross pattern in 2-3 steps, beginning with the inner nuts. Tighten the nuts to 23 ft. lbs. (31 Nm). Install a new exhaust pipe gasket and tighten the new nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). 39. Install the exhaust manifold bracket and cover. Tighten the bracket attaching bolts to 33 ft. lbs. (44 Nm) and the cover bolts to 17 ft. lbs. (24 Nm). 40. Be sure that the keyways on the camshafts are facing up and that the rocker arms are in their original position. The valve lock nuts should be loosened and the adjusting screw backed off. 41. Install the camshafts, then install the camshaft seals with the open side facing in. Install the rubber cap with liquid gasket applied. If the rubber cap has two horizontal marks, align the marks with the cylinder head upper surface. 42. Install a new O-ring and the dowel pin to the oil passage of the No. 3 camshaft holder. 43. Apply liquid gasket to the cylinder head mating surfaces of the No. 1 and No. 5 intake and exhaust camshaft holders, then install them, along with No. 2, 3, and 4. Be sure to pay attention to the following points: Do not apply oil to the holder mating surface of camshaft seals. The arrows marked on the camshaft holders should point to the timing belt. 44. Tighten the camshaft holders temporarily. Be sure that the rocker arms are properly positioned on the valve stems. 45. Tighten each bolt in 2 steps to ensure that the rockers do not bind on the valves. Tighten the 8x1.25mm bolts to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm), and the 6 x 1.0mm bolts to 7.2 ft. lbs. (9.8 Nm). 46. Install the back cover and tighten the attaching bolt to 86 inch lbs. (9.8 Nm). Install the keys into the camshaft grooves, then push the camshaft pulleys onto the camshafts, and then tighten the retaining bolts to 41 ft. lbs. (56 Nm). 47. Install the timing belt and adjust the tension, then install the timing belt covers. 48. Adjust the valve clearance. 49. Install the rubber seal in the groove of the cylinder head cover. Be sure that the seal and groove are thoroughly clean first. 50. Apply liquid gasket to the rubber seal at the eight corners of the recesses. Do not install the parts if 20 minutes or more have elapsed since applying the liquid gasket. Instead, reapply liquid gasket after removing old residue. 51. Install the cylinder head cover and engine ground cable. Be sure the contact surfaces are clean and do not touch surfaces where liquid gasket has been applied. 52. Tighten the cylinder head cover nuts in 2-3 steps. In the final step, tighten all nuts in sequence, to 86 inch lbs. (10 Nm). 53. Install the engine side mount, tighten the two new nuts and new bolt to the engine to 38 ft. lbs. (52 Nm) and tighten the bolt attaching the mount to the vehicle to 54 ft. lbs. (74 Nm). 54. The balance of installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. 55. Fill and bleed the air from the cooling system. 56. Connect the negative battery cable and enter the radio security code. 57. After installation, check to see that all hoses and wires are installed correctly. 58. Change the engine oil. Wait at least 20 minutes for the sealant to cure before filling the engine with oil. 59. Check for any fluid leaks and top off as necessary. 2.2L, 2.3L Engines 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Turn the crankshaft so the No. 1 piston is at Top Dead Center (TDC). The No. 1 piston is at top dead center when the pointer on the block aligns with the white painted mark on the flywheel (manual transaxle) or driveplate (automatic transaxle). 3. Drain the engine coolant into a sealable container. 4. Properly relieve the fuel system pressure, as outlined in Fuel System . 5. Remove the air intake duct. 6. Remove the evaporative emissions (EVAP) control canister hose from the intake manifold. 7. Remove the throttle cable from the throttle body. Be careful not to bend the cable when removing. Always replace a kinked cable with a new one. 8. Disconnect the fuel feed and return hose. 9. Remove the brake booster vacuum hose from the intake manifold. 10. Tag and detach the following engine wiring harness connectors: Fuel injector connectors Variable Valve Timing and Electronic Lift Control (VTEC) solenoid connector Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor connector Idle Air Control (IAC) valve connector Throttle Position (TP) sensor connector Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve lift sensor Ground cable terminals Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) switch B connector Heated Oxygen (HO 2 S) sensor connector ECT sensor ECT gauge sending unit connector Ignition Control Module (ICM) connector Top Dead Center (TDC) Crank Position (CKP) sensor and Camshaft Position (CYP) sensor connector Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) connector Ignition coil connector Intake Air Bypass (IAB) solenoid valve connector ECT switch A connector Knock sensor connector 11. Remove the engine ground cable from the cylinder head cover. 12. Remove the distributor and ignition wires. 13. Remove the connector and the terminal from the alternator, then remove the engine wiring harness from the valve cover. 14. Remove the mounting bolts and drive belt from the power steering pump. Pull the pump away from the mounting bracket, without disconnecting the hoses. Support the pump out of the way. 15. Remove the ignition coil. 16. Tag, then disconnect the emissions vacuum hoses from the intake manifold assembly. 17. Remove the bypass hose from the intake manifold. 18. Remove the upper radiator hose and the heater hose from the cylinder head. 19. Remove the lower radiator hose and bypass hose. 20. Support the engine with a jack and remove the side engine mount. 21. Remove the cylinder head cover. 22. Remove the timing belt. 23. Remove the camshaft pulley and the back cover. 24. Remove the lower splash shield. 25. Remove the intake manifold bracket bolts. 26. Remove the intake manifold. 27. Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold. 28. Remove the exhaust manifold and the exhaust manifold heat insulator. 29. Remove the cylinder head bolts in the reverse order of the tightening sequence. 1 To prevent warpage, unscrew the bolts in sequence /3turn at a time. Repeat the sequence until all bolts are loosened. See Figure 18 Fig. Fig. 18: Cylinder head bolt removal sequence-2.3L engine 30. Separate the cylinder head from the engine block with a suitable flat bladed prytool. To install: 31. Be sure all cylinder head and block gasket surfaces are clean. Check the cylinder head for warpage. If warpage is less than 0.002 in. (0.05mm), cylinder head resurfacing is not required. Maximum resurface limit is 0.008 in. (0.2mm) based on a cylinder head height of 5.20 in. (132.0mm). 32. Always use a new head gasket. 33. Be sure the No. 1 cylinder is at TDC. 34. Clean the oil control orifice and install a new O-ring. The cylinder head dowel pins and oil control jet must be aligned. 35. Install the bolts that secure the intake manifold to its bracket but do not tighten them. 36. Install the cylinder head, then tighten the cylinder head bolts sequentially in the following steps: Step 1: 22 ft. lbs. (29 Nm). Step 2: 90 degrees Step 3: 90 degrees Step 4 (Only if using new bolts): 90 degrees A beam type torque wrench is recommended. If a bolt makes any noise while being tightened, loosen the bolt and retighten it. See Figure 19 Fig. Fig. 19: Cylinder head bolt torque sequence-2.3L engine 37. Install the intake manifold with a new gasket. 38. Install the exhaust manifold with a new gasket. 39. Install the exhaust manifold bracket, then install the exhaust pipe, bracket and upper shroud. 40. Install the camshafts and rocker arms. 41. Install the timing belt back cover. 42. Install the side engine mount bracket B. Tighten the bolt attaching the bracket to the cylinder head to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm). Tighten the bolts attaching the bracket to the side engine mount to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm). 43. Install the camshaft sprockets onto the camshafts. 44. Install the timing belt. 45. Adjust the valves. 46. Tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to 181 ft. lbs. (250 Nm). 47. Install the splash shield. 48. Install the remaining components in the reverse order of removal. 49. Drain the oil from the engine into a sealable container. Install the drain plug and refill the engine with clean oil. 50. Fill and bleed the air from the cooling system. 51. Connect the negative battery cable and enter the radio security code. 52. Start the engine, checking carefully for any leaks. 2.5L Engine 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable and drain the coolant into a suitable container. 2. Disconnect the wiring from the ignition coil and the ground wire. 3. Properly relieve the fuel system pressure, as outlined in Fuel System . 4. Remove the fuel filler cap and loosen the service bolt on the fuel filter banjo bolt to relieve the fuel system pressure. Remove the banjo bolt to disconnect the fuel feed hose from the fuel filter. Disconnect the fuel return hose from the pressure regulator. 5. Remove the intake air duct and air cleaner assembly. 6. Loosen the air conditioner compressor and alternator adjustment bolts. Remove the drive belts. 7. Remove the throttle cable by loosening the locknut, then slip the cable end out of the throttle bracket and accelerator linkage. Do not bend the cable when removing it. Unbolt the throttle cable clamp and move the cable aside. 8. Label and disconnect the fuel and vacuum hoses from the intake manifold. Be sure to mark all electrical connectors and vacuum hoses before disconnecting them. 9. Disconnect the upper radiator hose, the heater hoses, and the water bypass hoses and unbolt the wiring harness clips. 10. Disconnect the brake booster hose, canister hose, and the two vacuum hoses from the rear of the cylinder head. 11. Remove the two distributor mounting bolts. Remove the distributor, ignition wires, and ground cables from the cylinder head. 12. Disconnect the wiring harness holder that is routed across the front of the cylinder head. 13. Tag and detach the following: Five fuel injector connectors Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor connector Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor connector Top Dead Center (TDC) Crank Position (CKP) sensor and Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor connector Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) gauge sending unit connector Throttle Position (TP) sensor connector Purge control solenoid valve connector Intake Air Bypass (IAB) control solenoid valve connector 14. Unbolt the intake manifold support brackets. The manifold may be removed after removing the cylinder head. 15. Detach the Oxygen (O 2 S) sensor connector. 16. Remove the exhaust manifold heat shields and disconnect the exhaust pipe from the manifold. 17. Remove the support bracket and remove the exhaust manifold. 18. Remove the cylinder head cover and upper timing belt cover. 19. Remove the timing belt. Replace the belt if it shows any signs of stress or damage. 20. Remove the camshaft position sensor and the camshaft sprocket. 21. Remove the back cover and unbolt the TDC/CKP sensor. 22. Loosen each cylinder head bolt about 1 / 3 turn at a time. Follow the reverse of the installation sequence to prevent warping the head. Repeat until all bolts are loose and can be removed. 23. If the cylinder head is stuck to the block, there are pry points at each end of the cylinder head. Do not pry against the gasket surfaces. 24. Carefully remove the cylinder head from the vehicle. To install: 25. Be sure the cylinder head and the engine block sealing surfaces are flat and clean. Resurface the head if it is warped. Clean all gasket surfaces and run a tap through the bolt holes in the block to clean the threads. Be sure the bolt holes are clean and dry so the head can be tightened properly. 26. Install a new O-ring onto the oil control orifice and install the orifice and dowel pins onto the block. Lay the new head gasket in place. 27. Verify that the crankshaft and camshaft are both at TDC for number one piston. See Figures 20 and 21 Fig. Fig. 20: Cylinder head prying points-2.5L engine Fig. Fig. 21: Tighten the cylinder head bolts in the correct sequence as shown-2.5TL 28. Carefully fit the cylinder head to the block. Be sure the oil control orifice is properly aligned. 29. Lightly oil the threads and washer surfaces of the cylinder head bolts and install them. Tighten the bolts in sequence as follows: Step 1: 29 ft. lbs.(39 Nm) Step 2: 51 ft. lbs. (69 Nm) Step 3: 72 ft. lbs. (97 Nm) 30. Install the intake manifold onto the cylinder head with a new gasket. Tighten the nuts in a crisscross pattern in 2 steps to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm). 31. Install the intake manifold brackets. 32. Loosely install the exhaust manifold bracket onto the manifold. Install the exhaust manifold with a new gasket and new self-locking nuts and tighten the nuts to 23 ft. lbs. (32 Nm). 33. Connect the exhaust pipe and install the manifold shields. 34. Reconnect the O 2 S sensor. 35. Install the timing belt and covers. 36. Adjust the valves. 37. Apply sealant to the ends of the cylinder head near the camshaft holders. Install the cylinder head cover with new rubber seals as required. 38. The balance of installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. 39. Replace the engine oil and filter. 40. Verify that all wiring, grounds, hoses, and cables are properly connected. 41. Connect the battery cable. Run the engine to bleed the cooling system and check for leaks. Check for proper cooling system and engine operation. Top off all fluid levels as necessary. 42. Enter the radio security code. 3.0L, 3.2 and 3.5L Engines 1. Obtain the security code for the radio. 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 3. On 3.5L engines, remove the strut brace. 4. Drain the coolant into a sealable container. 5. Remove the canister hose from the throttle body. 6. Remove the air intake duct. 7. Remove the upper engine covers. 8. Disconnect the accelerator and cruise control cables from the throttle body. 9. Remove the spark plug wire holder, cover and intake manifold covers. 10. Properly relieve the fuel system pressure, as outlined in Fuel System . 11. Disconnect the fuel hoses from the supply rail. 12. Remove the upper and lower radiator hoses. 13. Disconnect the heater hoses. 14. Tag and disconnect the following hoses and lines: Brake booster vacuum hose Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) hose Breather hose Water bypass hose Vacuum hose from the throttle body 15. Remove the ground cable from the engine. 16. Remove the A/C, alternator and power steering belts. 17. On 3.0L engines, perform the following: A. Support the engine with a jack and a block of wood and remove the side engine mounting bracket. B. Remove the power steering pump without disconnecting the hoses. C. Remove the alternator. 18. Tag and detach the following engine wiring harness connectors: Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor connector Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor connector Top Dead Center (TDC) Crank Position (CKP) sensor and Camshaft Position (CYP) sensor connector Ignition coil connector Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) gauge sending unit connector Throttle Position (TP) sensor connector Variable Valve Timing and Electronic Lift Control (VTEC) solenoid connector VTEC pressure switch connector Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor connector Idle Air Control (IAC) valve connector Engine oil pressure switch 19. On 3.0L engines, remove the distributor and spark plug wires. 20. On 3.2 and 3.5L engines disconnect the battery cables from the under-hood fuse/relay box and remove the box, then disconnect and remove the six ignition coils. 21. On 3.2L engines remove the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) pipe. 22. Remove the intake manifold. 23. On 3.0L engines, detach the connectors from the fuel injectors, remove the fuel supply rails and remove the vacuum hoses from the fuel control valve. 24. Set the engine to TDC by aligning the marks on the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys. 25. Remove the timing belt. 26. Remove both exhaust manifolds. 27. Remove the water passage assembly. 28. Remove the camshaft pulleys and rear timing belt covers. 29. Loosen each cylinder head bolt 30. Remove the cylinder heads. See Figures 22 and 23 1 / 3 turn at a time in the reverse order of the tightening sequence. Fig. Fig. 22: Loosen the cylinder head bolts in the sequence shown to prevent damage to the head-3.0L engine Fig. Fig. 23: Loosen the cylinder head bolts in the sequence shown-3.5L engine To install: 31. Clean the cylinder head and the surface of the cylinder block. 32. Install the oil control orifices and using new O-rings. 33. If removed, install the dowel pins. 34. Position new cylinder head gaskets on the cylinder block. 35. If moved, set the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys to TDC by aligning the marks on the pulley and oil pump. 36. Carefully position the cylinder heads on the engine. 37. Lubricate the cylinder head bolts with clean engine oil. See Figure 24 Fig. Fig. 24: Tighten the cylinder head bolts in the sequence shown to prevent damage to the head-3.0L engine If any cylinder head bolt makes noise while being tightened, loosen the bolts and begin the tightening sequence again. 38. On the 3.0L engine tighten the cylinder head bolts in three steps. Be sure to follow the proper torque sequence: Step 1: 29 ft. lbs. (39 Nm) Step 2: 51 ft. lbs. (69 Nm) Step 3: 72 ft. lbs. (98 Nm). 39. On the 3.2L and 3.5L engines tighten the cylinder head bolts in two steps. Be sure to follow the proper torque sequence: Step 1: 29 ft. lbs. (39 Nm) Step 2: 56 ft. lbs. (76 Nm) See Figures 25 and 26 Fig. Fig. 25: Cylinder head bolt torque sequence-3.2L engines Fig. Fig. 26: Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence-3.5L engine 40. Install the exhaust manifolds. 41. Install the back covers. 42. Install the camshaft pulleys and torque to the following specifications: 3.0L engines: 67 ft. lbs. (90 Nm) 3.2L and 3.5L engines: 23 ft. lbs. (31 Nm) 43. Install the timing belt. 44. Check and adjust the valve clearance if necessary. 45. Install the cylinder head cover. Tighten the bolts to 104 inch lbs. (12 Nm). 46. Install the intake manifold. Be sure to use new gaskets and O-rings. Tighten the bolts to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm). 47. Install all of the remaining hoses, tubes and connectors in reverse order of disassembly. 48. Change the engine oil and filter. 49. Top off the cooling system with the correct mixture of coolant and bleed as necessary. 50. Connect the negative battery cable. 51. Bring the engine to operating temperature and inspect for any fluid leaks. Top off all fluid levels as necessary. 52. Enter the security code for the radio. The PCM idle memory must be reset after reconnecting the battery. Start the engine and hold it at 3000 rpm until the cooling fan comes on. Then allow the engine to idle for about five minutes with all accessories OFF and with the transaxle in Park or Neutral. Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Electric Cooling Fan REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print See Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4 Fig. Fig. 1: Use a suitable ratchet and socket to break the radiator fan housing bolts loose Fig. Fig. 2: After all fasteners have been removed, pull the fan housing free from the radiator Fig. Fig. 3: Note how the bottom of the fan housing connects to the radiator Fig. Fig. 4: Location of radiator fan shroud mounting tab on the radiator CAUTION Do not open the radiator draincock or remove the radiator cap when the cooling system is hot and under pressure. This can cause serious burns from hot, pressurized coolant. Allow a sufficient amount of time for the cooling system to cool down before opening up the system. 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Drain the engine coolant. 3. Remove any radiator hoses that interfere with the removal of the fans. 4. Detach the fan motor connectors. 5. Remove the fan shroud assemblies. 6. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. TESTING 1. Detach the fan motor electrical connector. 2. Check to be sure that the radiator fan rotates when battery voltage is applied between the connector terminals. 3. Check that abnormal noises are not produced while the fan motor is turning. 4. If the fan runs normally, the motor is functioning properly. 5. If not, replace the fan module using the procedure earlier in this section. If the motor is noticeably overheated, the system voltage may be too high. Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Engine In the process of removing the engine, you will come across a number of steps which call for the removal of a separate component or system, such as "disconnect the exhaust system" or "remove the radiator." In most instances, a detailed removal procedure can be found elsewhere in this guide. Print It is virtually impossible to list each individual wire and hose which must be disconnected, simply because so many different model and engine combinations have been manufactured. Careful observation and common sense are the best possible approaches to any repair procedure. Removal and installation of the engine can be made easier if you follow these basic points: If you have to drain any of the fluids, use a suitable container. Always tag any wires or hoses and, if possible, the components they came from before disconnecting them. Because there are so many bolts and fasteners involved, store and label the retainers from components separately in muffin pans, jars or coffee cans. This will prevent confusion during installation. After unbolting the transaxle, always make sure it is properly supported. If it is necessary to disconnect the air conditioning system, have this service performed by a qualified technician using a recovery/recycling station. If the system does not have to be disconnected, unbolt the compressor and set it aside. When unbolting the engine mounts, always make sure the engine is properly supported. When removing the engine, make sure that any lifting devices are properly attached to the engine. It is recommended that if your engine is supplied with lifting hooks, your lifting apparatus be attached to them. Lift the engine from its compartment slowly, checking that no hoses, wires or other components are still connected. After the engine is clear of the compartment, place it on an engine stand or workbench. After the engine has been removed, you can perform a partial or full teardown of the engine using the procedures outlined in this guide. REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1.8L Engines The radio may contain a coded theft protection circuit. Always obtain the code number before disconnecting the battery. 1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section. 2. Disconnect the negative, then the positive battery cables. 3. Mark the positions of the hood hinges on the hood and remove the hood from the vehicle. 4. If equipped, remove the strut brace. 5. Disconnect the battery cables from the under-hood fuse/relay box and under-hood Antilock Brake (ABS) System fuse/relay box. 6. Remove the intake air duct, air cleaner housing assembly and mounting bracket. 7. Remove the evaporative emission control canister hose and vacuum hose from the intake manifold. 8. On B18C5 engines, disconnect the brake booster and fuel return hoses. 9. Tag and detach the engine wiring harness connectors on the right side of engine compartment. 10. Properly relieve the residual fuel system pressure. Relieve the fuel pressure by loosening the service bolt on the fuel filter about one turn. Place a shop towel over the fuel filter to prevent pressurized fuel from spraying over the engine. 11. Disconnect the fuel feed hose, brake booster vacuum hose, and fuel return hose. 12. Remove the throttle cable by loosening the locknut, then slip the cable end out of the accelerator linkage. Be careful not to bend the cable when removing it. Replace the cable if it gets kinked. 13. Remove the engine wiring harness connectors, terminal, and clamps on the left side of engine compartment. 14. Remove the cruise control actuator, and engine ground cable at the body end. 15. Remove the adjusting bolt and mounting bolt, then remove the power steering belt and pump. Do not disconnect the power steering hoses. 16. Loosen the idler pulley bolt and adjusting bolt, then remove the air conditioning compressor belt. 17. On manual transaxle only, remove the clutch slave cylinder and pipe/hose assembly. Do not disconnect the pipe/hose assembly. 18. Remove the transaxle ground cable and hose clamp. Remove the radiator cap. 19. Safely raise and support the vehicle. 20. Remove the front wheels and lower splash shield. 21. Drain the engine coolant, engine oil, and transaxle fluid into sealable containers. Reinstall the drain plugs using new washers. Be careful not to over tighten the drain plugs. 22. Disconnect the upper and lower radiator hoses and the heater hoses from the engine. 23. If equipped with an automatic transaxle, disconnect the automatic transaxle fluid (ATF) cooler hoses. 24. Remove the radiator assembly. 25. Remove the air conditioning compressor mounting bolts and position the compressor out of the way. Suspend the compressor on a wire, do not let it hang by its hoses. Do not disconnect the hoses. 26. Detach the Heated Oxygen (HO 2 S) sensor connector. 27. Remove the nuts and bolts connecting exhaust pipe A to the catalytic converter. Discard the gasket and the lock nuts. 28. Remove and discard the nuts attaching exhaust pipe A to the exhaust hanger. 29. Remove and discard the lock nuts attaching exhaust pipe A to the exhaust manifold, then remove exhaust pipe A from the vehicle. discard the exhaust gaskets. 30. If equipped with a manual transaxle, disconnect the shift rod and extension rod from the transaxle. 31. If equipped with an automatic transaxle, remove the shift cable cover, then disconnect the shift cable from the transaxle. 32. Remove the right strut fork bolt, discard the nut. 33. Remove the right strut pinch bolt, then remove the strut fork. 34. Disconnect the suspension lower arm ball joints using a suitable ball joint removal tool. 35. Carefully pry the inner CV-joint away from the transaxle to force the set ring at the inner end past the groove. Remove the other CV-joint out of the intermediate shaft. Do not let the halfshafts hang down. Support the halfshafts or hang them from the body with wire and cover the halfshaft ends with plastic bags. 36. Attach a suitable hoist to the engine. 37. Remove the left and right front mounts and brackets, then remove the rear mount bracket. 38. Remove the side engine mount, then remove the transaxle mount. 39. Check that the engine is completely clear of vacuum, fuel and engine coolant hoses, and electrical wiring. 40. Slowly raise the engine approximately 6 in. (150mm). Check to be sure that all hoses, cables and wires are disconnected from the engine. 41. Raise the engine and transaxle assembly all the way and remove it from the vehicle. 42. Separate the engine and transaxle. To install: 43. Install the transaxle to the engine assembly. 44. If equipped with a manual transaxle, tighten the transaxle housing mounting bolts to 47 ft. lbs. (64 Nm), the two bolts and new washers to the rear mounting bracket to 87 ft. lbs. (118 Nm), and tighten the upper mounting bolts to 47 ft. lbs. (64 Nm). 45. If equipped with an automatic transaxle, tighten the transaxle housing mounting bolts to 43 ft. lbs. (59 Nm), the two bolts and new washers to the rear mounting bracket to 87 ft. lbs. (118 Nm), and tighten the upper mounting bolts to 54 ft. lbs. (74 Nm). 46. If equipped with an automatic transaxle, tighten the bolts attaching the torque converter to the drive plate to 104 inch lbs. (12 Nm). 47. Install the torque converter/clutch cover. 48. Install the rear engine stiffener, tighten the bolts attaching the stiffener to the engine to 17 ft. lbs. (24 Nm). If equipped with a manual transaxle, tighten the bolts attaching the stiffener to the transaxle to 42 ft. lbs. (57 Nm). If equipped with an automatic transaxle, tighten the bolts attaching the stiffener to the transaxle to 32 ft. lbs. ( 43 Nm). 49. If equipped with the Variable Valve Timing and Electronic Lift Control (VTEC) (B18C1 and B18C5 engines), install the front engine stiffener. Tighten the bolt attaching the stiffener to the engine to 17 ft. lbs. (24 Nm), tighten the bolts attaching the stiffener to the transaxle to 42 ft. lbs. (57 Nm). 50. Install the engine and transaxle into the engine compartment. Install the transaxle mount, then tighten the bolt/nuts on the transaxle side. Leave the mount bolt loose. 51. Install the engine side mount, then tighten the bolt/nuts on the engine side. Leave the mount bolt loose. Tighten the mount bolt on the transaxle mount, then tighten the mount bolt on the side engine mount. 52. Install the rear mount bracket, then tighten the bolts in the proper sequence. 53. Install the right front mount/bracket, then tighten the bolts in the proper sequence. 54. Install the left front mount, then tighten the bolts in the proper sequence. 55. Install the strut fork and pinch bolt. 56. If equipped with an automatic transaxle, connect the shift cable to the transaxle and install the shift cable cover. 57. If equipped with a manual transaxle, connect the shift rod and extension rod to the transaxle. 58. Install the exhaust pipe A to the exhaust manifold and to the catalytic converter. 59. Attach the HO 2 S sensor connector. 60. Install the air conditioning compressor and mounting bolts. 61. Install the radiator assembly. 62. If equipped with an automatic transaxles, connect the ATF cooler hoses. 63. Connect the upper and lower radiator hoses and the heater hoses to the engine. 64. Install the front wheels and lower splash shield. 65. Install the transaxle ground cable and hose clamp. Install the radiator cap. 66. If equipped with a manual transaxle, install the clutch slave cylinder and pipe/hose assembly. 67. Loosen the idler pulley bolt and adjusting bolt, then install the air conditioning compressor belt. 68. Install the power steering pump, the adjusting bolt and mounting bolt, then install the power steering belt. 69. Install the cruise control actuator, and engine ground cable at the body end. 70. Install the engine wiring harness connectors, terminal, and clamps on the left side of engine compartment. 71. Install the throttle cable. Replace the cable if it gets kinked. 72. Connect the fuel feed hose, brake booster vacuum hose, and fuel return hose. 73. Attach the engine wiring harness connectors on the right side of engine compartment. 74. On B18C5 engines, install the brake booster and fuel return hoses. 75. Install the evaporative emission control canister hose and vacuum hose to the intake manifold. 76. Install the intake air duct, air cleaner housing assembly and mounting bracket. 77. Connect the battery cables to the under-hood fuse/relay box and under-hood ABS system fuse/relay box. 78. If equipped, install the strut brace. 79. Install the hood to the vehicle. 80. Fill the engine coolant, engine oil, and transaxle fluid. 81. Reconnect the battery cables to the fuse/relay boxes and the battery. Connect the positive cable, then the negative cable to the battery. 82. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position, (do not operate the starter) so that the fuel pump operates for approximately 2 seconds and the fuel line pressurizes. Repeat this operation 2 or 3 times and check for fuel leakage. 83. Start the engine and check for any fluid leaks. 84. Recheck fluid levels and top off as necessary. 85. Enter the radio security code, then test drive the vehicle. 2.2L, 2.3L and 3.0L Engines 1. Obtain the anti-theft code for the radio, then disconnect the battery cables. Be sure to disconnect the negative cable first. 2. Remove the air intake duct. 3. Remove the hood opening struts and support the hood in a vertical position. 4. Detach the negative battery cable and then the positive cable. 5. If equipped with engine compartment covers, remove the covers. 6. Remove the strut brace. 7. Remove the intake air duct assembly. 8. Remove the battery, battery tray and the engine ground cable. 9. If equipped, remove the cosmetic manifold and throttle body covers. 10. Remove the accelerator and cruise control cables from the throttle body and bracket. 11. Remove the battery cables from the under-hood Antilock Brake System (ABS) and under-hood fuse/relay box assemblies and disconnect the engine wiring harness on the right side of the engine. 12. Properly relieve the fuel system pressure, as outlined in Fuel System of this guide. 13. Detach the fuel hoses from the fuel rail. 14. Disconnect the engine wiring harness on the left side of the engine. 15. Tag and disconnect the brake booster vacuum hoses and the canister hoses. 16. Remove the accessory drive belt(s). 17. Remove and support the power steering pump leaving the hoses attached. 18. Remove the bolt securing the power steering hose bracket on the engine. 19. On vehicles equipped with manual transaxles, remove the shift cable, clutch slave cylinder (leaving the hydraulic line attached), and detach the reverse light switch connector. 20. If equipped, remove the cruise control vacuum tank. 21. Remove the radiator cap. 22. Carefully raise the vehicle. 23. Remove the front wheels and lower splash shield. 24. Drain the engine oil, coolant, and transaxle oil (or fluid) into sealable containers and carefully reinstall the drain plugs using new sealing washers. 25. Remove the center support beam. 26. Detach the Heated Oxygen (HO 2 S) sensor connector and remove the front A pipe. 27. On automatic transaxles, remove the shift selector cable. 28. Remove the damper forks and disconnect the lower ball joints. 29. Remove the driveshafts from the transaxle and cover the machined ends. 30. On 3.0L engines, remove the crankshaft pulley, the Variable Valve Timing and Electronic Lift Control (VTEC)/oil filter housing, and A/C compressor leaving the hoses attached. 31. Carefully lower the vehicle. 32. Disconnect the upper and lower radiator hoses. 33. If so equipped, remove the ATF cooler hoses. 34. Remove the radiator. 35. On 2.3L engines, remove the distributor, Idle Air Control (IAC) valve, and the A/C compressor, leaving the hoses attached. 36. Disconnect the heater hoses. 37. Attach a suitable engine lifting hoist to the engine lifting hooks and secure the engine. 38. Disconnect the front, rear, and side engine and transaxle mounts. 39. Lift the engine slightly and check that all hoses, cables and wires have been properly disconnected. 40. Carefully raise the engine from the vehicle. See Figures 1 and 2 Fig. Fig. 1: Engine lifting points-2.3CL shown Fig. Fig. 2: Engine lifting points-3.0CL shown To install: 41. Lift the engine into position and install the engine mounting brackets. On the 2.3L, tighten the engine mounting bolts and nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). On the 3.0L, tighten the bolts to 28 ft. lbs. (38 Nm). 42. On the 3.0L engine, install the A/C compressor. Tighten the bolts to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm). 43. Install the transaxle mounting bracket. On the 2.3L engine, tighten the nuts to 28 ft. lbs. (38 Nm) and the through bolt to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). On the 3.0L engine, tighten the bolts to 28 ft. lbs. (38 Nm). 44. On the 2.3L engine, perform the following: Install the rear mount bracket and tighten the bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). On vehicles with manual transaxles, install the stiffener and tighten the through bolt to 47 ft. lbs. (64 Nm). Install the stiffener and tighten the nut and bolt to 28 ft. lbs. (38 Nm) Tighten the three front mounting bracket bolts to 28 ft. lbs. (38 Nm). Then, tighten the through bolt to 47 ft. lbs. (64 Nm). Install the A/C compressor. Tighten the bolts to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm). 45. On the 3.0L engine, perform the following: Install the radius rod bolts. Tighten them to 119 ft. lbs. (162 Nm). Install the front mounting bracket support nut. Tighten it to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). Install the rear mounting bracket nut and bolt. Tighten the nut to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm) and the bolt to 28 ft. lbs. (38 Nm). Install the side mounting bracket. Tighten the bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm) and the through bolt to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). 46. Assemble the exhaust system. 47. If equipped with an automatic transaxle, connect the shift linkage. 48. The remainder of installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. 49. Refill and bleed the cooling system. WARNING Operating the engine without the proper amount and type of engine oil will result in severe engine damage. 50. Fill the engine and transaxle with the correct amount and type of fluid. 51. Install the battery if removed. Start the engine and check for any fluid leaks. 52. Bring the engine to operating temperature and recheck all fluid levels. 53. Enter the security code for the radio. 2.5L Engine 1. Open the hood and secure it in its fully opened position (vertical). The hood may be removed if more clearance and working room is desired. 2. Obtain the radio security code, then disconnect the negative, then the positive cables. 3. Remove the battery and the battery tray. 4. Remove the engine ground cables and ignition coil wire. 5. Remove the battery cables from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 6. Disconnect the engine harness connectors on the right side of the engine compartment. 7. Unbolt the battery cable from the Antilock Brake (ABS) System fuse/relay box. 8. Remove the intake air cleaner duct and the air cleaner housing. 9. Loosen the component adjusting and mounting bolts, then remove the power steering pump and air conditioning compressor belts. 10. Without disconnecting the hoses, remove the power steering pump and the air conditioner compressor and secure them out of the way. Do not loosen or disconnect the air conditioning refrigerant lines. 11. Remove the throttle cable by loosening the locknut, then slip the cable end out of the throttle bracket and accelerator linkage. Do not bend the cable when removing it. Unbolt the throttle cable clamp and move the cable aside. 12. Label and disconnect the engine wiring harness connectors on the left side of the engine compartment. CAUTION The fuel injection system remains under pressure after the engine has been turned OFF. Properly relieve fuel pressure before disconnecting any fuel lines. Failure to do so may result in fire or personal injury. Do not allow fuel spray or fuel vapors to come in contact with a spark or open flame. Keep a dry chemical fire extinguisher nearby. Never store fuel in an open container due to risk of fire or explosion. 13. Properly relieve the residual fuel system pressure by loosening the service bolt on the fuel filter. Remove the banjo bolt to remove the fuel feed hose from the fuel filter. Remove the fuel return hose from the pressure regulator. 14. Disconnect the charcoal canister hoses, fuel return hose, brake booster hose and the emission control vacuum hoses. 15. Disconnect the transaxle wiring connector that is located near the firewall. 16. The distributor may be removed for extra access to the upper transaxle case bolts. Disconnect the wiring and remove the two bolts to remove the distributor. Do not lose the collar that fits on the distributor shaft. 17. Remove the torque converter cover and remove the drive plate bolts. 18. Remove the upper transaxle bolts and the 26mm differential shim. Note the location of the shim for installation. 19. Remove the power steering speed sensor from the differential case without disconnecting the hydraulic hoses. Disconnect the wiring and secure the sensor out of the way. 20. Remove the two upper brackets and lift the radiator and cooling fan assembly from the engine compartment. 21. Raise and support the vehicle safely. 22. Remove the splash shield and front tires. 23. Drain the engine, differential and transaxle fluids into sealable containers. 24. Disconnect the lower strut fork and ball joint. 25. To disconnect the halfshafts, carefully pry the inner CV-joint away from the transaxle and the intermediate shaft. Do not pull on the halfshaft; the CV-joint may come apart. Use care when prying out the assembly and pull it straight to avoid damaging the intermediate shaft seals. 26. Support the halfshafts from the body with wire. Do not let them hang from the outer CV-joints or it will be damaged. 27. Disconnect the Oxygen (O 2 S) sensor connector from the exhaust system and remove the front exhaust pipe and its brackets. 28. Remove the transaxle mount and bracket. 29. Be sure the transaxle is in P park. Remove the 33 mm extension shaft sealing cap on the lower left side of transaxle housing. 30. Use a suitable extension shaft puller tool, to remove the extension shaft from the differential. 31. Lower the vehicle and install a chain hoist onto the engine lifting hooks. 32. Disconnect the heater hoses. 33. Disconnect the transaxle cooler hoses from the radiator tank. Disconnect the upper and lower radiator hoses and the fan wiring. 34. Remove the radiator assembly. 35. Raise the engine hoist just enough to take up the weight of the engine. 36. Remove the mid-mounts along with the spacers. 37. Support the transaxle with a jack and remove the transaxle case bolts. 38. Install the transaxle mid-mounts and spacer to hold the transaxle in the vehicle. Be sure the engine will separate from the transaxle, and that the transaxle will be supported by the mounts after the engine has been removed. 39. Unbolt the front engine mounts. 40. Slowly raise the engine slightly to separate it from the transaxle. Verify that all wiring harnesses, fuel and coolant lines, and vacuum hoses are disconnected. 41. Lift the engine out of the vehicle. Be sure the engine clears the mounts, the transaxle case, and the differential extension shaft. To install: Use new mounting bolts when installing the transaxle side mount and bracket. 42. Install the front engine mounts into the engine compartment. 43. Install the engine in the vehicle. Keep the lifting chain attached to hold the weight of the engine. Install the mounting nuts to hold the engine in place. Do not tighten the nuts and bolts at this time. Be sure the differential lines up with the extension shaft. Be sure the mainshaft is aligned in the clutch pressure plate, or the torque converter is flush against the drive plate and mounted on the mainshaft. 44. Raise the vehicle. 45. Install new snap and set rings onto the extension shaft. Apply high temperature molybdenum grease to its splines and the shaft mating surface in the differential. 46. Support the transaxle with a jack and remove the mid-mounts. Carefully fit the engine into position and start the upper engine bolts. Slowly tighten two bolts on opposite sides just enough to draw the engine and transaxle together. Install all the remaining bolts except for the differential bolt and its shim. Do not fully tighten the bolts yet. 47. If either the engine, transaxle or differential is being replaced, the space between the differential and transaxle housings must be measured and the correct shim installed. Shims are available in increments of 0.004 in. (0.1mm). Measure the space between the housings with a feeler gauge. Install the largest shim possible that does not exceed the measurement. If the wrong shim is installed, the differential or transaxle housing will be out of alignment and could develop cracks. 48. Install the shim and tighten the bolts to 54 ft. lbs. (75 Nm). Tighten the transaxle case bolts to 54 ft. lbs. (75 Nm). 49. Install the mid-mount and spacer. Loosely install the nuts and bolts for all the mounts and set the engine into place. Remove the engine lifting equipment. 50. Tighten the mounting nuts and bolts to the correct torque in the proper sequence. This step is important to preload the engine and transaxle mounts. Following the proper sequence will minimize engine vibration and premature mount failure. Be sure the rubber strut mounting surface is not contaminated with oil. Tighten the nuts and bolts as follows: Left and right front mount nut: 54 ft. lbs. (75 Nm) Left front strut bolt: 28 ft. lbs. (39 Nm) Left front strut bracket bolt: 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm) 2.5TL front mount-to-subframe bolts: 28 ft. lbs. (38 Nm) Mid-mount nuts: 32 ft. lbs. (43 Nm) Mid-mount bolts: 28 ft. lbs. (38 Nm) 51. After the engine and transaxle have been bolted together, install the extension shaft. Be sure the set ring snaps firmly into place. Coat the threads of the 33mm sealing cap with a sealing compound, install the cap and tighten it to 58 ft. lbs. (80 Nm). 52. On vehicles with automatic transaxles, install the torque converter bolts and tighten them to 9 ft. lbs. (12 Nm). Do not over tighten these bolts or the drive plate will warp. Install the torque converter cover. 53. Install the transaxle side mount and bracket. Tighten the bracket bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). Tighten the mount bolts to 47 ft. lbs. (64 Nm). 54. The balance of the installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. 55. Fill the engine with fresh oil. Refill the differential and transaxle. Fill the cooling system with the correct coolant mixture. 56. Connect the positive and negative battery cables. 57. Bleed the cooling system. Check fluid levels. Run the engine and check its operation. 58. Check for any fluid leaks and recheck the fluid levels. 59. Enter the radio security code. 3.2L Engine 1996-98 MODELS The engine and transaxle are removed as an assembly. 1. Move the front passenger's seat forward. 2. Do not remove the hood. Disconnect the hood support strut and reconnect it to hold the hood in a vertical position. The radio may contain a coded theft protection circuit. Always obtain the code number before disconnecting the battery. 3. Disconnect the negative battery cable, then the positive battery cable. Remove the battery and the battery box. 4. Remove the engine cover. 5. Remove the air cleaner assembly and intake duct. 6. Remove the throttle cable cover. Without turning the adjusting nut, loosen the locknut, which is closer to the throttle, and disconnect the throttle cable and cruise control cable from the throttle and bracket. 7. Detach the engine wiring harness connector on the left side of the engine compartment. 8. Remove the engine ground cable and engine wiring harness clamps. 9. Disconnect the vacuum hoses, then remove the clamp from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 10. Label, then disconnect the battery cables from the under-hood fuse/relay box, then remove the under-hood fuse/relay box. 11. Detach the engine wiring harness connector, located by the under-hood fuse/relay box. 12. Raise the power steering fluid reservoir, then disconnect the vacuum hoses and remove the vacuum pipe and vacuum tank. Do not disconnect the power steering hoses. 13. Disconnect the ignition control module (igniter) located on the right shock tower and remove the wiring harness clamp. Disconnect the engine ground cable. 14. Disconnect the engine wiring harness connectors on the right side of the engine compartment. 15. Remove the ground cable and wiring harness clamp. 16. Disconnect the wiring harness from the control box and solenoid valve, then remove the control box. 17. Disconnect the brake booster vacuum hose. 18. Remove the two bolts mounting the heater valve. 19. Properly relieve the fuel pressure, as outlined in Fuel System . 20. Disconnect the engine fuel feed hose from the fuel filter and disconnect the fuel return hose from the fuel regulator. 21. Disconnect the Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) control canister hose and the vacuum hose. 22. Detach the transaxle sub-harness connector, and remove the wiring harness clamp. 23. Loosen the alternator mounting bolt, lockbolt and adjusting rod, then remove the drive belt. 24. Loosen the A/C idler pulley center nut and adjusting bolt, then remove the drive belt. 25. Detach the power steering pressure switch connector. 26. Remove the power steering pump adjusting bolt, locknut and mounting bolt, then remove the drive belt and pump. 27. Pull the carpet back under the passenger seat to expose the secondary Heated Oxygen (HO 2 S) sensor connector, then unplug the connector. 28. Remove the radiator cap. 29. Raise and safely support the vehicle. 30. Remove the front wheels and the splash guard. 31. Drain the engine coolant into a sealable container. 32. Drain the transaxle fluid into a proper container, then install the drain plug with a new washer. 33. Drain the oil from the differential, then install the drain plug with a new washer. 34. Drain the engine oil into a proper container, then install the drain plug with a new washer. 35. Remove the front suspension strut forks. 36. Disconnect the lower ball joints from the steering knuckles. 37. Disconnect the halfshafts from the differential and the intermediate shaft. Support the halfshafts with wire out of the way and cover the inner CVjoints with plastic bags. 38. Detach the A/C compressor clutch connector. Remove the compressor, without disconnecting the hoses. 39. Unplug the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) connector, then remove the VSS/power steering sensor. Do not disconnect the fluid hoses. 40. Remove the heat shields from the front exhaust pipe. 41. Remove the nuts attaching the front exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifolds and the catalytic converter. Remove the front exhaust pipe. 42. Remove the O 2 S sensor wiring harness cover and grommet, then remove the catalytic converter. Discard the nuts and gasket. 43. Remove the exhaust heat shield from the floor of the vehicle. 44. Disconnect the transaxle cooler hoses, then plug the hoses and pipes. 45. Remove the shift cable cover mounting bolts and remove the wiring harness clamps from the cover. Remove the shift cable cover from the transaxle. 46. Remove the shift cable holder from the holder base, do not lose the washers. 47. Remove the locknut attaching the shift cable to the control lever, then remove the shift cable. 48. Lower the vehicle. 49. Remove the upper and lower radiator hoses. 50. Remove the radiator assembly. 51. Disconnect the heater hoses. 52. Attach a suitable hoist to the engine lifting points. 53. Remove the center bracket from the front engine mounts. 54. Remove the center mount from the front beam. 55. Remove the nuts and bolts attaching the left and right engine mount brackets to the left and right brackets. 56. Working underneath the vehicle, remove the shift cable guide bracket. 57. Remove the bolts attaching the transaxle beam to the body, and loosen the three bolts on the transaxle beam. 58. Remove the stop holder, the mid mount stops and the mid mounts. 59. Verify that the engine and transaxle assembly is completely free of vacuum hoses, fuel and coolant lines and electrical wiring. 60. Slowly raise the engine and transaxle. Remove the left end right brackets from the front engine mounts. 61. Raise the engine all of the way and remove it from the vehicle. To install: 62. Carefully install the engine and transaxle into the engine compartment, taking care to not hit the rear beam. Check carefully to be sure that the rubber mounts are not twisted or offset. Start all of the mount nuts and bolts before tightening them. This is important to help minimize engine vibrations. 63. Install the center mount to the front beam and tighten the bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). 64. Install the left bracket to the left front mount and the engine mount bracket. Do not tighten the nuts and bolts at this time. 65. Install the right bracket to the right front mount and the engine mount bracket. Do not tighten the nuts and bolts at this time. 66. Install the center bracket. Tighten the bolts attaching the brackets to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm), then tighten the mount through bolt to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). 67. Install the transaxle beam mounting bolts, do not tighten the bolts at this time. Loosen the bolts attaching the mount to the beam and the mount through bolt. 68. Install the mid mounts, then the mid mount stops. Tighten the 8mm bolts loosely, then install the stop holder. 69. Tighten the mid mount 10mm bolts to 28 ft. lbs. (38 Nm) and tighten the 8mm bolts to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm). Tighten the new nuts attaching the midmounts to 35 ft. lbs. (48 Nm) and tighten the nuts attaching the stop holder to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). 70. Tighten the nut and bolt attaching the left bracket and the left engine mount bracket to 28 ft. lbs. (38 Nm). Tighten the left bracket through bolt to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). 71. Tighten the nut and bolt attaching the right bracket and the right engine mount bracket to 28 ft. lbs. (38 Nm). Tighten the right bracket through bolt to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). 72. Tighten the bolts attaching the transaxle beam to the vehicle to 28 ft. lbs. (38 Nm), then tighten the bolts attaching the mount to the beam to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). Tighten the three bolts attaching the bracket to the transaxle to 28 ft. lbs. (38 Nm), then tighten the mount through bolt to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). 73. Remove the engine hoist. 74. Connect the heater hoses to the heater core at the bulkhead. 75. Install the radiator assembly. 76. Install the upper and lower radiator hoses. 77. Raise and safely support the vehicle. 78. Connect the shift cable control lever to the control shaft, then install the washer and nut. Tighten the nut to 104 inch lbs. (12 Nm). 79. Install the shift cable holder to the shift cable holder base with the mounting washers. Install the attaching bolts and tighten the bolts to 104 inch lbs. (12 Nm). 80. Install the shift cable cover and tighten the mounting bolts to 104 inch lbs. (12 Nm). 81. The balance of installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. 82. Fill the engine and transaxle with the recommended type and amount of lubricant. 83. Fill the cooling system and bleed the air from the cooling system. 84. Connect the positive, then the negative battery cables and enter the radio security code. 85. Switch the ignition ON but do not engage the starter. The fuel pump should run for approximately 2 seconds, building pressure within the lines. Switch the ignition OFF , then ON 2 or 3 more times to build full system pressure. Check for fuel leaks. 86. Run the engine and check for leaks, check the transaxle oil level and add if necessary. 87. Enter the radio security code. 1999-00 MODELS The engine and transaxle are removed as an assembly. 1. Do not remove the hood. Disconnect the hood support strut and reconnect it to hold the hood in a vertical position. The radio may contain a coded theft protection circuit. Always obtain the code number before disconnecting the battery. 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable, then the positive battery cable. Remove the battery and battery support tray. 3. Remove the air cleaner intake duct. 4. Disconnect the throttle cable and cruise control cable from the throttle and bracket. 5. Detach the engine wiring harness connector on the left side of the engine compartment. 6. Properly relieve the fuel pressure, as outlined in Fuel System . 7. Disconnect the engine fuel feed hose from the fuel filter and disconnect the fuel return hose from the fuel regulator. 8. Disconnect the brake booster vacuum hose. 9. Label, then disconnect the battery cables from the under-hood fuse/relay box, then remove the under-hood fuse/relay box. 10. Disconnect the Powertrain Control (PCM) Module wiring harness connector from the PCM. 11. Remove the alternator drive belt. 12. Remove the power steering pump belt and pump assembly leaving the hoses attached. Do not disconnect the power steering hoses. 13. Detach the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) connector, then remove the VSS/power steering sensor leaving the fluid hoses attached. 14. Remove the radiator cap. 15. Raise and safely support the vehicle. 16. Remove the front wheels and the lower splash guard. 17. Drain the engine coolant into a sealable container. 18. Drain the transaxle fluid into a proper container, then install the drain plug with a new washer. 19. Drain the oil from the differential, then install the drain plug with a new washer. 20. Drain the engine oil into a proper container, then install the drain plug with a new washer. 21. Detach the Heated Oxygen (HO 2 S) sensor connector and remove the front pipe assembly. 22. Remove the front suspension strut forks. 23. Disconnect the lower ball joints from the steering knuckles. 24. Disconnect the halfshafts from the differential and the intermediate shaft by prying them outward using a suitable prytool. Support the halfshafts with wire, move out of the way and cover the inner CV-joints with plastic bags. 25. Remove the shift cable cover mounting bolts and remove the shift cable cover and cable from the transaxle. 26. Disconnect the power steering hose clamps and the engine mount control vacuum hose. 27. Carefully lower the vehicle. 28. Remove the upper and lower radiator hoses and the heater hoses. 29. Disconnect and plug the transaxle cooler hoses. 30. Remove the ground cable. 31. Remove the power steering hose clamp from the rear beam assembly. 32. Attach a suitable chain hoist to the engine lifting hooks and support the engine. The engine and transaxle assembly are removed by lowering it from the vehicle. Be sure the vehicle is in a position that will allow the engine and transaxle assembly enough clearance to be moved from the vehicle once it is lowered away from the vehicle. 33. Remove the side, rear and front engine mount support fasteners. 34. Remove the front suspension radius rod support flange bolts. 35. Make alignment marks on the front beam and remove the front beam. 36. Remove the A/C compressor leaving the hoses attached. 37. Remove the rear mounts from the engine and transaxle. 38. Check that all hoses, cables and wires have been properly disconnected and slowly lower the engine about 6 inches (150 mm). Recheck that all hoses, cables and wires have been properly disconnected. 39. Carefully lower the engine/transaxle assembly from the vehicle. To install: 40. Attach a suitable engine hoist and carefully raise the engine/transaxle assembly into the vehicle. 41. Install the rear mounts to the engine and transaxle. 42. Install the A/C compressor assembly. 43. Align the alignment marks on the front beam and install the front beam. 44. Install the front suspension radius rod support flange bolts. 45. Install the side, rear and front engine mount support fasteners. 46. Remove the engine lifting hoist from the engine. 47. Install the power steering hose clamp to the rear beam assembly. 48. Install the ground cable. 49. Connect and the transaxle cooler hoses. 50. Install the upper and lower radiator hoses and the heater hoses. 51. Raise and safely support the vehicle. 52. Connect the power steering hose clamps and the engine mount control vacuum hose. 53. Install the shift cable and the converter to the transaxle. 54. Connect the halfshafts to the differential and the intermediate shaft. 55. Connect the lower ball joints to the steering knuckles. 56. Install the front suspension strut forks. 57. Install the front pipe assembly and connect the heated O 2 S sensor connector. 58. Install the front wheels and the splash guard. 59. Install the radiator cap. 60. Install the VSS/power steering sensor and attach the VSS sensor connector. 61. Install the power steering pump. 62. Install the alternator and power steering drive belts. 63. Install the PCM wiring harness connector to the PCM. 64. Install the under-hood fuse/relay box and connect the battery cables to the under-hood fuse/relay box. 65. Attach the brake booster vacuum hose. 66. Connect the engine fuel feed hose to the fuel filter and connect the fuel return hose to the fuel regulator. 67. Attach the engine wiring harness connector on the left side of the engine compartment. 68. Connect the throttle cable and cruise control cable to the throttle and bracket assemblies. 69. Install the air cleaner intake duct. 70. Install the battery support tray and the battery. 71. Fill the engine coolant, the transaxle, the differential, and the engine oil with the recommended type and amount of fluid. 72. Check that all hoses, cables and wires have been properly connected. 73. Connect the positive battery cable, then the negative cable. 74. Start the engine and check for any fluid leaks. Check and top off all fluid levels as necessary. 75. Enter the radio security code. 3.5L Engine The engine and transaxle are removed as an assembly. 1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section. 2. Move the front passenger's seat forward. 3. On 1996-98 models, do not remove the hood. Disconnect the hood support strut and reconnect it to hold the hood in a vertical position. 4. On 1999-00 models, make alignment marks between the hood and the hood hinges and remove the hood. The radio may contain a coded theft protection circuit. Always obtain the code number before disconnecting the battery. 5. Disconnect the negative battery cable, then the positive battery cable. 6. Remove the strut brace. 7. Remove the engine cover. 8. Remove the air cleaner assembly and intake duct. 9. Remove the throttle cable cover. Without turning the adjusting nut, loosen the locknut, which is closer to the throttle, and disconnect the throttle cable and cruise control cable from the throttle and bracket assembly. 10. Raise the coolant reservoir, then remove the battery and tray. 11. Remove the relay box, ground cable and wiring harness clips from the firewall. 12. Disconnect the vacuum hose, the alternator and battery cables and the clamp from the under-hood fuse/relay box and remove the box. 13. Detach the engine wiring harness connector on the left side of the engine compartment. 14. Properly relieve the fuel system pressure, as outlined in Fuel System . 15. Remove the fuel feed hose from the fuel filter and disconnect the fuel return hose. 16. Remove the canister and brake booster hoses. 17. Detach the transaxle sub-harness connector. 18. Detach the connector and remove the control box. 19. Detach the wiring harness connectors on the right side of the engine compartment. 20. Disconnect the spark plug voltage detection module and remove the engine ground cables. 21. Remove the alternator and A/C drive belts. 22. Detach the Power Steering Pressure (PSP) switch connector, remove the power steering pump drive belt and the power steering pump leaving the hoses attached. 23. Pull the carpet back under the front passengers seat and detach the secondary Heated Oxygen (HO 2 S) sensor connector. 24. Remove the radiator cap. 25. Raise and safely support the vehicle. 26. Remove the front tires and lower splash shield. 27. Drain the engine coolant, transaxle fluid, differential and engine oils and reinstall the drain plugs using new sealing washers. 28. Remove the front suspension damper forks. 29. Disconnect the lower ball joints from the steering knuckles and carefully remove the halfshafts by prying them outward using a suitable prytool. Cover the machined ends of the inner CV-joints with a plastic bag. 30. Detach the A/C compressor clutch connector, then remove the compressor without disconnecting the hoses. 31. Disconnect and remove the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) leaving the hoses attached. 32. Remove the transaxle stop collars. 33. Remove the nuts attaching the front A pipe to the exhaust manifolds and the catalytic converter. Remove the front A pipe assembly. 34. Remove the O 2 S sensor grommet and wire from the floor pan and the nuts attaching the catalytic converter and remove the converter. 35. Remove the converter heat shield. 36. Disconnect and plug the transaxle cooler lines. 37. Remove the shift cable cover, shift control solenoid valve/linear solenoid harness connector from the shift cable cover. 38. Disconnect the shift cable from the transaxles. 39. Remove the control lever from the control shaft. 40. Lower the vehicle to the floor. 41. Remove the radiator hoses and the radiator. 42. Disconnect the heater hoses. 43. Loosen the locknut on the fuel pressure regulator and rotate it 180 degrees. 44. Attach a chain hoist to the engine lifting eyelets. 45. Raise and safely support the vehicle. 46. Remove the shift cable guide and the transaxle beam. 47. Remove the transaxle mount and bracket. 48. Lower the vehicle. 49. Separate the left and right front mount brackets from the mounts and disconnect the vacuum line. 50. Remove the nuts from the right and left engine mounts. 51. Raise the engine slightly, be sure all connections have be removed. 52. Remove the engine/transaxle from the vehicle. To install: See Figure 3 Fig. Fig. 3: View of the engine mounting bracket, including torque specifications-3.5RL 53. Position the engine/transaxle in the vehicle. 54. Install the transaxle mount bracket. Tighten the bolts to 28 ft. lbs. (38 Nm). 55. Install the vacuum hose on the right mount and install the nuts on the right and left engine mounts and tighten them to 47 ft. lbs. (64 Nm). 56. Install the transaxle beam. Tighten the bolts in the sequence shown to the correct specification. See Figure 4 Fig. Fig. 4: Transaxle beam bolt tightening sequence and torque specifications-3.5RL 57. Install the bolts in the left and right front mounts. Tighten them to 52 ft. lbs. (74 Nm). 58. Install the shift control solenoid valve/linear solenoid harness connector, the shift cable and cover to the transaxle. 59. Install the control lever to the control shaft. 60. Install the radiator and radiator hoses. 61. Attach the heater hoses. 62. Connect the transaxle cooler lines. 63. Remove the chain hoist from the engine lifting eyelets. 64. Rotate the fuel pressure regulator 180 degrees, then tighten it. 65. Raise and safely support the vehicle. 66. Install the converter heat shield. 67. Install the catalytic converter and the O 2 S sensor wire through the floor pan and install the grommet. 68. Attach the front A pipe to the exhaust manifolds and the catalytic converter. 69. Install the transaxle stop collars. 70. Install the CV-joints. Be sure the inner joint snapring seats completely. 71. Connect the lower ball joints to the steering knuckles. 72. Install the front suspension damper forks. 73. Connect the A/C compressor clutch connector and install the compressor. 74. Install and connect the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS). 75. Install the front tires and lower splash shield. 76. Carefully lower the vehicle. 77. Pull the carpet back under the front passengers seat and attach the HO 2 S sensor connector. 78. Move the front passenger's seat back to its original position. 79. Install the radiator cap. 80. Attach the Power Steering Pressure (PSP) switch connector, install the power steering pump and drive belt. 81. Install the alternator and A/C drive belts. 82. Connect the spark plug voltage detection module and install the engine ground cables. 83. Attach the wiring harness connectors on the right side of the engine compartment. 84. Attach the transaxle sub-harness connector. 85. Install the control box and attach the connector. 86. Install the relay box, ground cable and wiring harness clips to the firewall. 87. Install the relay box and connect the vacuum hose, the alternator and battery cables and the clamp to the under-hood fuse/relay box. 88. Connect the engine wiring harness connector on the left side of the engine compartment. 89. Install the fuel feed hose to the fuel filter and connect the fuel return hose. 90. Install the canister and brake booster hoses. 91. Raise the coolant reservoir, then install the battery and tray. 92. Connect the throttle cable and cruise control cable to the throttle and install the throttle cable cover.. 93. Install the air cleaner assembly and intake duct. 94. Install the engine cover. 95. Install the strut brace. 96. Refill the engine, differential, and transaxle fluids with the recommended type and amount of lubricant. 97. Fill the cooling system with the correct mixture of coolant and bleed the cooling system as necessary. 98. Connect the positive battery cable, then the negative battery cable. 99. Start the engine and check for leaks. Recheck the fluid levels and top off as necessary. 100. On 1999-00 models, reinstall the hood. Once the battery has been disconnected the PCM module must be programmed. 101. Reprogram the PCM as follows: A. Set the parking brake. B. Shift the transaxle to Park or Neutral. C. Allow the engine to run at 3,000 RPM until the cooling fan cycles. D. Check that all electrical consumers (headlights, radio, air conditioner, etc.) are turned off. E. Allow the engine to idle at normal operating temperature for five minutes. 102. Enter the radio security code. Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Exhaust Manifold REMOVAL & INSTALLATION The radio may have a coded theft protection circuit. Make sure you have the code before disconnecting the battery, removing the radio fuse, or removing the radio. 1.8L Engines WARNING This procedure should only be performed on a cold engine. See Figures 1 through 6 Print Fig. Fig. 1: Removal of the heat shield from the exhaust manifold -Integra 1.8L Fig. Fig. 2: Use caution when removing the exhaust manifold bolts, as they may be rusted and will snap off easily Fig. Fig. 3: Remove the down pipe from the exhaust manifold Fig. Fig. 4: Using both hands, pull the exhaust manifold away from the cylinder head Fig. Fig. 5: The lower support bracket may also have to be removed from the exhaust manifold Fig. Fig. 6: Exhaust manifold-1.8L engines 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the exhaust manifold cover. 3. Raise and safely support the vehicle. 4. Remove the three nuts attaching the front exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold. Discard the nuts. Separate the exhaust pipe from the manifold and discard the gaskets. 5. Lower the vehicle. 6. Disconnect the bracket attaching the exhaust manifold to the engine. 7. Remove the exhaust manifold attaching nuts and discard the nuts. 8. Remove the exhaust manifold from the engine. Clean any old gasket material from the engine and the exhaust manifold mating surfaces. 9. Remove the rear cover from the exhaust manifold. To install: 10. Install the rear cover to the exhaust manifold and tighten the mounting bolts to 17 ft. lbs. (24 Nm). 11. Install a new exhaust manifold gasket to the cylinder head. 12. Install the exhaust manifold to the engine and install new attaching nuts. Tighten the nuts to 23 ft. lbs. (31 Nm). 13. Install the bracket to the exhaust manifold and the engine. Tighten the bolts to 33 ft. lbs. (44 Nm). 14. Raise and safely support the vehicle. 15. Install new gaskets to the front exhaust pipe where it connects to the exhaust manifold. 16. Connect the front exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold. Install new nuts and tighten the nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). 17. Lower the vehicle. 18. Install the exhaust manifold cover and tighten the bolts to 17 ft. lbs. (24 Nm). 19. Connect the negative battery cable and enter the radio security code. 20. Run the engine and check for exhaust leaks. 2.2L, 2.3L Engines 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Safely raise and support the vehicle. 3. If the Oxygen (O 2 S) sensor is located in the exhaust manifold, detach the O 2 S sensor connector. 4. Remove the exhaust manifold upper cover. 5. If equipped with air conditioning, remove the heat insulator from the manifold. 6. Remove the nuts attaching the exhaust manifold to the front exhaust pipe. Separate the pipe from the manifold and discard the gasket. Support the pipe with wire; do not allow it to hang by itself. 7. Remove the exhaust manifold bracket(s) bolts and remove the bracket(s). 8. Using a crisscross pattern (starting from the center), remove the exhaust manifold attaching nuts. 9. Remove the manifold and discard the gasket. Clean the manifold and cylinder head mating surfaces. 10. If equipped, remove the lower manifold cover from the manifold. To install: 11. If equipped, install the lower manifold cover, tighten the attaching bolts to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm). 12. Using a new gasket and nuts, place the manifold into position and support it. Install the nuts snug on the studs. 13. Install the support bracket(s) below the manifold. Tighten the bracket(s) mounting bolts to 33 ft. lbs. (44 Nm). 14. Starting with the manifold inner or center nuts, tighten the nuts in a crisscross pattern to the correct torque. The tension must be even across the entire face of the manifold if leaks are to be prevented. Tighten the nuts to 23 ft. lbs. (31 Nm). 15. Install the upper manifold cover, tighten the bolts to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm). 16. If disconnected, attach the O 2 S connector. 17. Connect the front exhaust pipe, using new gaskets and nuts. Tighten the exhaust pipe attaching nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm). 18. Connect the negative battery cable and enter the radio security code. 19. Start the engine and check for exhaust leaks. 2.5L Engine 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the outer manifold heat shields. 3. Disconnect the wire and remove the Oxygen (O 2 S) sensor from the manifold. 4. Disconnect the manifold from exhaust pipe. 5. Remove the mounting bracket and remove the nuts to remove the manifold. To install: 6. Be sure the gasket mating surfaces are clean. Install the bracket loosely and install the manifold with new gaskets and self-locking nuts. Tighten the nuts to 23 ft. lbs. (31-32 Nm), then tighten the bracket bolts. Be sure not to bend or damage the contact surface of the metal gasket. 7. Coat the threads of the O 2 S sensor with an anti-seize compound. Be careful not to get any on the head of the sensor. Install the sensor and carefully tighten to 33 ft. lbs. (44-45 Nm). Connect the sensor wire. 8. Install a new gasket and connect the manifold to the exhaust pipe. Tighten the nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54-55 Nm). Install the outer manifold heat shields and tighten the bolts to 22 ft. lbs. (29 Nm). 9. Connect the negative battery cable. Start the engine and check for exhaust leaks. 3.0L Engine 1. Raise and safely support the vehicle. 2. Remove the engine undercover. 3. Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the manifold to be removed. 4. Lower the vehicle. 5. Remove the exhaust manifold heat shield. 6. Remove the mounting nuts and the exhaust manifold. See Figure 7 Fig. Fig. 7: Exploded view of the front exhaust manifold mounting-3.0L engine To install: 7. Clean the mounting surfaces. 8. Position a new gasket on the cylinder head. 9. Install the exhaust manifold. Tighten the nuts to 23 ft. lbs. (31 Nm). 10. Install the heat shield. Tighten the bolts to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm). 11. Raise the vehicle and connect the exhaust pipe to the manifold using a new gasket. Tighten the nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). 3.2L and 3.5L Engines This operation should be performed with the engine and exhaust cold. 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Be sure the engine is not hot or warm before performing this operation. Remove the exhaust manifold shrouds. 2. If applicable, remove the two small heat shields from the cylinder heads. 3. Remove the exhaust pipe nuts. 4. Remove the Oxygen (O 2 S) sensors. 5. Remove the air suction tube. 6. Remove the exhaust attaching nuts in a crisscross pattern starting from the center of the manifold. 7. Clean the gasket mounting surfaces. Inspect the manifold for cracks, flatness and/or damage; replace the parts, if necessary. To install: 8. To install, use new gaskets and self-locking nuts. Be sure all mating surfaces are clean before installing exhaust manifold. Tighten the manifold nuts in a crisscross pattern starting from the center, for 3.2TL, tighten the manifold nuts to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm). 9. If applicable, install the two small heat shields and tighten the attaching bolts to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm). 10. Use new gaskets when installing the exhaust pipe to the manifold and tighten the nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm). 11. Install the air suction tube, then install the O 2 S sensors. Tighten the O 2 S sensors to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm). 12. Install the manifold shrouds, tightening the bolts to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm). 13. Verify that all vacuum lines and wiring are properly connected. 14. Reconnect the negative battery cable, then start the engine and check for leaks. Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Flywheel/Flexplate REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print See Figures 1 and 2 Fig. Fig. 1: View of the flywheel and bolts-manual transaxle shown Fig. Fig. 2: Removing the flywheel from an Integra with a manual transaxle Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Front Crankshaft Seal REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print The radio may have a coded theft protection circuit. Make sure you have the code before disconnecting the battery, removing the radio fuse, or removing the radio. 1. Disconnect negative cable at the battery. 2. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Drain the engine oil and properly dispose of it. 3. Be sure the crankshaft is at Top Dead Center (TDC) on No. 1 cylinder by aligning the white mark on the crankshaft pulley with the pointer on the lower timing belt cover. 4. Remove the crankshaft pulley. See Figure 1 Fig. Fig. 1: Installing the front crankshaft oil seal 5. Remove the cylinder head cover, timing belt cover and timing belt. 6. If equipped with a Crankshaft Speed Fluctuation (CKF) sensor, remove the sensor. 7. Remove the timing belt and the drive gear from the crankshaft. 8. Using a suitable prytool, carefully remove the seal. To install: 9. Apply a light coat of oil to the seal lip. 10. Position the seal, then using a seal driver, install the seal into the housing. 11. Install the timing belt pulley , the timing belt, and engine covers. If equipped with a CKF sensor, install the sensor tighten the attaching bolts to 96 inch lbs. (11 Nm). 12. Install the crankshaft pulley and cylinder head cover. 13. Lower the vehicle and check and fill the engine with oil as necessary . 14. Connect the negative battery cable and enter the radio security code. 15. Run the engine and check for leaks. 16. Turn off engine and check the oil level. Top off the oil level if necessary. Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Intake Manifold REMOVAL & INSTALLATION The radio may have a coded theft protection circuit. Make sure you have the code before disconnecting the battery, removing the radio fuse, or removing the radio. 1.8L (B18B1, B18C1 and B18C5) Engines See Figures 1, 2 and 3 Fig. Fig. 1: As shown, space may be limited when trying to get to the bolts on the under side of the intake manifold. Print Fig. Fig. 2: Remove all of the intake manifold bolts as shown Fig. Fig. 3: There may be bolts hidden on the under side of the manifold 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Drain the cooling system into a sealable container. 3. If equipped, remove the strut brace. 4. Remove the air intake duct. 5. Properly relieve the fuel pressure, as outlined in Fuel System . 6. Disconnect the fuel feed hose. 7. Remove the breather hose, the water bypass hose and the control canister hose from the throttle body. 8. Remove the fuel return hose. 9. Disconnect the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) hose. 10. Remove the brake booster vacuum hose, the water bypass hose and the vacuum hose from the manifold. 11. Remove the throttle cable from the throttle body. Take great care not to kink or damage the cable. 12. If necessary, remove the throttle body. 13. Label and disconnect all the emission vacuum hoses from the intake manifold. 14. Label and detach the wiring connected to the intake manifold. Disconnect sensors as needed; release wiring retainers and clips. 15. Disconnect the water bypass hoses from the manifold. 16. Remove the bolts attaching the intake manifold to the support bracket. 17. Remove the nuts attaching the intake manifold to the cylinder head. Remove the nuts in a crisscross pattern, beginning from the center and moving out to both ends. 18. Remove the manifold and the old gasket. 19. Clean the intake manifold mating surfaces. Inspect the manifold for cracks, flatness and/or damage; replace the parts, if necessary. If the intake manifold is to be replaced, transfer all the necessary components to the new manifold. On B18C1, B18C5 engines, the intake manifold may be removed from the air bypass valve body. If the manifold is removed, always install a new gasket before reassembly. To install: 20. If the manifold was removed from the air bypass valve body, reassemble the components before installation. Tighten the through bolts to 17 ft. lbs. (24 Nm). 21. Use new gaskets when installing the intake manifold. Tighten the nuts, in a crisscross pattern, in 2-3 steps, starting with the inner nuts, to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm). 22. Install the bolts to the manifold support bracket. Tighten the bolts to 17 ft. lbs. (24 Nm). 23. The remainder of the procedure is the reverse of the removal. When connecting the fuel feed hose to the filter, use new washers and tighten the banjo bolt to 25 ft. lbs. (33 Nm) and the service bolt to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm). If applicable, when installing the strut brace, tighten the attaching nuts to 17 ft. lbs. (24 Nm). If removed, use a new gasket when installing the throttle body and tighten the nuts to 14 ft. lbs. (20 Nm). 24. After all removed components and connections have been reinstalled, refill and bleed the air from the cooling system. 25. Connect the negative battery cable and enter the radio security code. Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature. 26. Check for leaks and proper engine operation. Top off the engine coolant as necessary. 2.2L, 2.3L Engines See Figure 4 Fig. Fig. 4: Intake manifold and related components-2.3L engine 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Drain the engine coolant into a sealable container. 3. Disconnect the cooling hoses from the intake manifold. 4. Label and unplug the vacuum hoses and electrical connectors on the manifold and throttle body. Unplug the connector from the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve. Position the wiring harnesses out of the way. 5. Disconnect the throttle cable from the throttle body. 6. Properly relieve the fuel pressure, as outlined in Fuel System . 7. Remove the fuel rail and fuel injectors. 8. Remove the thermostat housing mounting bolts. Remove the thermostat housing from the intake manifold and the connecting pipe, by pulling and twisting the housing. Discard the O-rings. 9. It may be necessary to remove the upper intake manifold plenum and throttle body assembly in order to access the nuts securing the manifold to the head. 10. Remove the intake manifold support bracket bolts and the bracket. It may be necessary to access it from under the vehicle; raise and support the vehicle safely. 11. While supporting the intake manifold, remove the nuts attaching the intake manifold to the cylinder head, then remove the manifold. Remove the old gasket from the cylinder head. 12. Clean any old gasket material from the cylinder head and the intake manifold. check and clean the FIA chamber on the cylinder head. To install: 13. Using a new gasket, place the manifold into position and support. 14. Install the support bracket to the manifold. Tighten the bolt holding the bracket to the manifold to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm). 15. Starting with the inner or center nuts, tighten the nuts, in a crisscross pattern, to the correct torque. The tension must be even across the entire face of the manifold if leaks are to be prevented. Correct torque is 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm). 16. Using a new gasket, install the upper intake manifold and throttle body assembly, if removed as a separate unit. Tighten the nuts and bolts holding the chamber to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm). 17. Install a new O-ring to the coolant connecting pipe, and to the thermostat housing. Install the housing to the coolant pipe and the intake manifold. Tighten the mounting bolts to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm). 18. Connect and adjust the throttle cable. 19. Install the fuel rail/injector assembly. Connect the fuel lines. 20. Properly position the wiring harnesses and attach the electrical connectors. 21. Connect the vacuum hoses. 22. Fill and bleed the air from the cooling system. 23. Connect the negative battery cable and enter the radio security code. 24. Start the engine, checking carefully for any leaks of fuel, coolant or vacuum. Check the manifold gasket areas carefully for any leakage of vacuum. 2.5L Engine 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Properly relieve the fuel system pressure, by removing the fuel filler cap and loosening the service bolt on the fuel filter. Remove the banjo bolt to remove the fuel feed hose from the fuel filter. Remove the fuel return hose from the pressure regulator. 3. Remove the throttle cable by loosening the locknut, then slip the cable end out of the throttle bracket and throttle linkage. Take care not to bend the cable when removing it. Move the cable aside. 4. Remove the engine harness cover. Label and disconnect the vacuum hoses and all wiring from the intake manifold. 5. To avoid having to drain the cooling system, remove the fast idle valve and the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve without disconnecting the coolant hoses. Move these components out of the work area so that they will not be damaged. 6. Remove the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) pipe and the vacuum pipe. 7. Remove the fuel rail. Remove the fuel injectors from the manifold. Handle the injectors and fuel rail carefully to avoid damaging them or contaminating them with dirt. 8. Unbolt the top bolts on the intake manifold brackets. 9. Remove the nuts that secure the manifold to the head. Remove the intake manifold from the engine. To install: Use new O-rings when installing the IAC and fast idle valves. 10. Inspect the manifold and its components for any signs of damage. 11. Fit the manifold to the engine with a new gasket and tighten the nuts to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm). Tighten the manifold bracket bolts to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm). 12. Install the fuel injectors into the rail and install the assembly onto the manifold with new sealing rings and cushion rings to prevent noise and leakage. 13. Connect the fuel injector harnesses and install the harness cover. 14. Install the IAC, fast idle, EGR, and EVAP valves. Use new O-rings. 15. Connect the wiring, vacuum hoses, and fuel lines. Use new sealing washers when connecting the fuel lines. 16. Install the throttle cable into its bracket and linkage. The throttle cable deflection is the measured by pressing down on the cable between the rubber boot and the linkage. The deflection must be 0.39-0.47 in. (10-12mm). Adjust the throttle cable as required. 17. Verify that all wiring and vacuum hoses are installed correctly. 18. Connect the negative battery cable. Run the engine and check for leaks. 3.2L and 3.5L Engines 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Drain the cooling system into a suitable container. 3. Remove the air intake duct from the throttle body. 4. On GS models, remove the TCS control valve assembly and its brackets from the throttle body. 5. Properly relieve the fuel system pressure by loosening the service bolt on the fuel filter about 1 turn, then disconnect the fuel supply and return lines from the manifold. 6. Remove the engine harness covers, tag and disconnect the wiring harnesses from the fuel injectors. 7. Remove the vacuum pipe harness, air inlet pipe, and Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) pipe. 8. Remove the pulsed air injection pipe and valve. 9. Remove the intake manifold nuts and bolts in a crisscross pattern, beginning from the center and moving out to both ends of the manifold. 10. Verify that all vacuum lines are disconnected and remove the intake manifold and throttle body as a unit. 11. Remove the water passage and clean the gasket mounting surfaces. 12. Inspect the manifold for cracks, flatness, or other damage; replace any damaged parts. If the intake manifold is to be replaced, transfer all the necessary components to the new manifold. To install: Always use new gaskets and O-rings during installation. 13. Install the water passage. 14. Install the intake manifold and tighten the nuts/bolts, in a crisscross pattern in 2-3 steps, starting with the inner nuts. Tighten the 8mm bolts to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm) and the 6mm bolts to 9 ft. lbs. (12 Nm). 15. Reconnect the vacuum lines and the air inlet, and the EGR pipes. 16. Reconnect the fuel supply and return lines to the manifold. Tighten the fuel system service bolt. 17. Reconnect all intake manifold wiring connectors. 18. Install the TCS control valve assembly and brackets. 19. Install the air duct to the throttle body. Refill the cooling system. 20. Reconnect the negative battery cable. Start the engine, allow it to reach normal operating temperature and check for leaks and proper engine operation. Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Oil Pan REMOVAL & INSTALLATION The radio may have a coded theft protection circuit. Make sure you have the code before disconnecting the battery, removing the radio fuse, or removing the radio. 1.8L, 2.2L and 2.3L Engines See Figures 1 through 7 Fig. Fig. 1: The exhaust downpipe will have to be removed-Integra shown Print Fig. Fig. 2: The rear engine stiffener may have to be removed to gain access to the engine's oil pan Fig. Fig. 3: The flywheel cover may have to be removed to allow access to all of the oil pan bolts Fig. Fig. 4: Removing the oil pan on the Integra Fig. Fig. 5: Once the oil pan has been removed, wipe it clean with a shop towel. Fig. Fig. 6: The gasket must be removed from the oil pan and the surface cleaned thoroughly Fig. Fig. 7: If any cleaning solvents were used to clean the pan, allow it to dry before reinstallation. 1. Disconnect negative cable at the battery. 2. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Drain the oil and remove the lower splash panel. 3. Detach the Heated Oxygen (HO 2 S) sensor connector. 4. Remove the nuts and bolts connecting exhaust pipe A to the catalytic converter. Discard the gasket and the lock nuts. 5. Remove and discard the nuts attaching exhaust pipe A to the exhaust hanger. 6. If applicable, remove the mounting bolts from the center beam. Remove the center beam from the subframe. 7. Remove and discard the lock nuts attaching exhaust pipe A to the exhaust manifold, then remove exhaust pipe A from the vehicle. discard the exhaust gaskets. 8. Loosen the oil pan bolts in a crisscross pattern. To remove the oil pan, lightly tap the corners of the oil pan with a rubber or plastic faced mallet. Clean off all the old gasket material. To install: 9. Apply liquid gasket to the oil pan mating surface where the oil pump and the right side cover meet the engine block. 10. Install the oil pan gasket to the oil pan. 11. Install the oil pan, then finger tighten the center and end mounting nuts and bolts in the proper sequence. See Figures 8 and 9 Fig. Fig. 8: Oil pan bolt tightening sequence-1.8L engines Fig. Fig. 9: Oil pan bolt tightening sequence-2.3L engine 12. Tighten the oil pan mounting nuts and bolts starting from the center bolt next to the oil drain plug (bolt No. 1) and work clockwise, tightening the bolts in three steps. Tighten the bolts to 10 ft. lbs. (14 Nm). Excessive tightening can cause distortion of the oil pan gasket and oil leakage. 13. Install the oil drain plug with a new gasket, tighten the plug to 33 ft. lbs. (44 Nm). 14. Install exhaust pipe A using new gaskets and lock nuts. Tighten the nuts attaching the exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). Tighten the nuts attaching the exhaust pipe to the catalytic converter and the exhaust pipe hanger to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm). 15. Attach the heated O 2 S sensor connector. 16. Install the lower splash panel, then lower the vehicle. 17. Fill the engine with oil. 18. Connect the negative battery cable and enter the radio security code. 19. Run the engine and check for leaks. 20. Turn off engine and check the oil level. Top off the oil level if necessary. 2.5L Engine 1. Shift the manual transaxle to 1st gear or automatic transaxle to the P position. 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 3. Remove the air cleaner housing. 4. Raise and safely support the vehicle and remove the front wheels. 5. Drain the engine oil and coolant. 6. Remove the strut forks. 7. Remove the lower ball joint nut. Use a ball joint remover to disconnect the ball joint from the control arm. 8. Carefully pry the inner CV-joints out of their sockets. Wrap them in plastic to keep them clean. Do not let the driveshafts hang by the outer CV-joint. 9. Drain the differential oil. 10. Disconnect the differential oil cooler hoses. 11. Install the a suitable shaft puller tool, and disengage the extension shaft from the differential. 12. Remove the side splash shield. 13. Attach a chain hoist to the lifting hooks and take up the engine's weight. 14. Remove the transaxle side mount and bracket. 15. Unbolt and remove the left front engine mount bracket. 16. Remove the power steering speed sensor from the differential. Do not disconnect the hoses. 17. Remove the differential mounting bolts and the 26mm shim. Remove the differential from the vehicle. 18. Unbolt the intermediate shaft bearing housing from the oil pan and pull the intermediate shaft assembly from the oil pan pipe. 19. Remove the A/C compressor, then its mounting bracket. Leave the A/C lines connected to the compressor. Support the compressor with a piece of wire to move it out of the work area and take the weight off the A/C lines. 20. Remove the set plate that holds the oil pan inner pipe from the right side of the engine. 21. Unbolt the oil pan and remove it from the vehicle. To install: 22. Clean the oil pan and engine block mating surfaces. Apply an even bead of liquid gasket to the engine block sealing surface. Apply some liquid gasket to the inner threads of the bolt holes. 23. Install the oil pan and tighten the bolts in the correct sequence to 16-17 ft. lbs. (22-24 Nm), as shown in the accompanying figure. See Figure 10 Fig. Fig. 10: Apply liquid gasket and tighten the oil pan bolts as shown-2.5L engine 24. Install new O-rings on the oil pan inner pipe. Install the pipe and tighten the set plate bolts to 9 ft. lbs. (12 Nm). 25. Install the differential, making sure the original shim is in the proper position. Tighten the bolts to 54 ft. lbs. (75 Nm). Connect the cooling hoses. 26. Install new set and snaprings on the extension shaft. Coat the splines and their mating surfaces with high temperature grease. Thread the special installation tool into the transaxle case to install the extension shaft. 27. Pack the extension shaft cavity with high temperature grease and install the 33mm sealing bolt. Tighten the bolt to 58 ft. lbs. (80 Nm) and install the secondary cover. 28. Install the intermediate shaft, tighten the bolts to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm). 29. Install the left front engine mount bracket and tighten the bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). Tighten the mounting bolt to 54 ft. lbs. (74 Nm). 30. Install the transaxle side bracket and mount. Tighten the bracket mounting bolts and through bolt to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). Install new mount bolts and tighten them to 47 ft. lbs. (64 Nm). 31. Install the A/C compressor mount. Tighten the mounting bolts on the oil pan, then the mounting bolts on the engine block, 36 ft. lbs. (49 Nm). Install the A/C compressor onto the mount and tighten the bolts to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm). 32. Install the speed sensor and tighten the mounting bolt to 7 ft. lbs. (10 Nm). 33. Install new set rings on the CV-joints and press them into their sockets. 34. Refill the differential. 35. Connect the lower ball joints to the control arms and install the nuts, tighten them to 36-43 ft. lbs. (49-59 Nm) and install a new cotter pin. Tighten the strut fork bolts to 47 ft. lbs. (64 Nm). Install the front wheels. 36. Carefully lower the vehicle. 37. Remove the chain hoist. 38. Refill the engine oil and cooling system. 39. Install the air cleaner and intake duct. 40. Bleed the cooling system by opening the bleeder on the upper radiator hose inlet when filling the system. 41. Connect the negative battery cable. 3.0L Engine 1. Raise and safely support the vehicle. 2. Drain the engine oil into a suitable container. 3. Remove the exhaust pipe if necessary. 4. Unfasten the oil pan mounting bolts, then remove the oil pan. To install: 5. Clean the sealing surface on the engine and oil pan flange. See Figure 11 Fig. Fig. 11: Oil pan bolt tightening sequence-3.0L engine 6. Apply a bead of sealant to the oil pan flange and install the oil pan. Tighten the bolts, in the sequence shown, to 104 inch lbs. (12 Nm). 7. If removed, install the exhaust pipe. WARNING Operating the engine without the proper amount and type of engine oil will result in severe engine damage. 8. Add the correct amount of engine oil to the crankcase. 9. Start the engine and check for leaks. 3.2L and 3.5L Engines 1. Disconnect the negative, then the positive battery cables. 2. Remove the air conditioning compressor drive belt. 3. Raise and safely support the vehicle. 4. Remove the front wheels and splash shield. 5. Remove the strut forks. Remove the lower ball joint nut and use a ball joint press tool to disconnect the ball joint from the control arm. 6. Remove the halfshafts from the differential and the intermediate shaft. 7. Remove the intermediate shaft from the oil pan. 8. Drain the oil from the differential into a sealable container the install the drain plug with a new washer. 9. Drain the engine oil into a sealable container. 10. If equipped, disconnect the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) harness, then remove the VSS/power steering speed sensor. Do not disconnect the fluid hoses, support the sensor out of the way. 11. Remove the right front beam bridge. 12. Remove the lower plate from the rack and pinion, install the two rack and pinion mounting bolts that were removed. 13. Remove the 36mm sealing bolt on the transaxle. Ensure that the transaxle is in 1st gear (manual) or P (automatic). 14. Disconnect the extension shaft from the differential with the extension shaft puller part number 07LAC-PW50101 or its equivalent. 15. Remove the differential mounting bolts and the 26mm shim, then remove the differential. 16. Detach the A/C compressor clutch connector, then remove the compressor. Do not disconnect the A/C hoses from the compressor and do not let the compressor hang by the hoses. 17. Remove the rear engine stiffener. 18. Remove the flywheel cover or the torque converter covers. 19. Remove the oil pan. Do not lose the dowel pins from the oil pan. To install: 20. Clean the oil pan and cylinder block mating surfaces, then apply liquid gasket to the cylinder block. Be sure that the mating surfaces are clean and dry before installing the liquid gasket. Do not apply liquid gasket to the O-ring grooves. See Figure 12 Fig. Fig. 12: Be sure to tighten the oil pan bolts in the sequence shown-3.2L engines 21. Install the dowel pins to the oil pan and new O-rings coated with clean oil. Install the oil pan to the cylinder block. Coat the oil pan bolts with liquid gasket, then install them. Tighten the bolts, in the proper sequence, to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm). 22. For manual transaxle, install the flywheel cover and engine stiffener. 23. For automatic transaxle, install the torque converter covers and tighten the mounting bolts to 104 inch lbs. (12 Nm). 24. Install the rear engine stiffener. Tighten the bolt attaching the engine stiffener to the transaxle first, to 47 ft. lbs. (64 Nm), then tighten the bolts to the engine block to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm). 25. Install the A/C compressor to the engine block and tighten the mounting bolts to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm). 26. Attach the A/C clutch connector. 27. Install the dowel pins to the differential, then install the differential to the engine. Install the mounting bolts loosely and install the 26mm shim. Tighten all of the mounting bolts to 47 ft. lbs. (64 Nm). 28. Install a new set ring to the extension shaft. Using a suitable extension shaft installer tool, install the shaft to the differential. 29. Fill the secondary gear with super high temperature grease part number 08798-9002. Applying sealer to the threads of the 36mm sealing bolt, then install the bolt and tighten to 58 ft. lbs.(78 Nm). 30. Remove the two bolts from the rack and pinion necessary to install the lower plate, then install the lower plate and the attaching bolts. Tighten the lower plate attaching bolt to 28 ft. lbs. (38 Nm) and tighten the rack and pinion bolts to 43 ft. lbs. (59 Nm). 31. When installing the lower ball joint nuts, tighten them to 51-58 ft. lbs. (70-80 Nm) and install a new cotter pin. Tighten the strut fork bolts to 51 ft. lbs. (70 Nm). 32. Install the right beam bridge and tighten the attaching bolts to 28 ft. lbs. (38 Nm). 33. Install the VSS and tighten the attaching bolt to 104 inch lbs. (12 Nm). Connect the VSS harness to the VSS sensor. 34. Install the intermediate shaft and the halfshafts. 35. Fill the differential with oil. 36. Install the engine splash shield and tighten the bolts to 7.2 ft. lbs. (9.8 Nm). 37. Install the front wheels. 38. Lower the vehicle. 39. Install the A/C compressor drive belt. 40. Fill the engine with oil. 41. Connect the positive, then the negative battery cables and enter the radio security code. 42. Run the engine and check for leaks. 43. Check the front wheel alignment. Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Oil Pump REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print The radio may have a coded theft protection circuit. Make sure you have the code before disconnecting the battery, removing the radio fuse, or removing the radio. 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Drain the oil and remove the lower splash panel, if necessary. 2. Be sure the crankshaft is at Top Dead Center (TDC) on No. 1 cylinder and remove the timing belt cover, timing belt, and the gear off the crankshaft. See Figures 1, 2 and 3 Fig. Fig. 1: Exploded view of the oil pump-1.8L (B18B1) engines Fig. Fig. 2: Oil pump screen mounting position-Integra shown Fig. Fig. 3: Always check the condition of the screen while the oil pan is removed 3. Remove the oil pan. Remove the pickup screen. 4. Remove the oil filter assembly, if necessary. 5. Remove the oil pump from the front of the engine. Any time the oil pump is removed, the front oil seal should be replaced. To install: 6. Install the oil pump, using new O-rings and liquid gasket applied to a clean pump mounting face. For all engines, except the 1.8L engines, tighten the 6mm bolts to 104 inch lbs. (12 Nm) and the 8mm bolts to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm). For 1.8L engines, tighten the 8x1.25mm bolts to 17 ft. lbs. (24 Nm), tighten the 6 x 1.0mm bolts to 104 inch lbs. (12 Nm). 7. Install the oil pump cap or oil cooler unit, as applicable. Replace the cooler hoses if they show signs of damage. Tighten the center bolt to 30 ft. lbs. (42 Nm). See Figure 4 Fig. Fig. 4: Apply sealant to the oil pump sealing surface as shown-2.5L engine WARNING The three 1.8L engines use different oil pumps. When replacing the pump be sure that you have the correct part number. Match the crankshaft timing mark on the new oil pump with the timing mark on the old oil pump, because the timing marks are in different locations. If an oil pump is used with the timing mark in the wrong position the pistons may contact the valves. 8. Install the pickup screen, then the oil pan. Tighten the oil pan bolts to 104 inch lbs. (12 Nm). See Figures 5 and 6 Fig. Fig. 5: Lubrication system-3.0L engine Fig. Fig. 6: Exploded view of the lubrication system-3.5L engine 9. Install the oil filter assembly, exhaust pipe, center beam, and lower splash panel, if necessary. 10. Wait at least 30 minutes after completion of procedure before refilling the engine with oil. The waiting period is to allow a curing period for the silicone sealant. Refill the engine with oil and connect the negative battery cable. Start the engine and check the engine for leaks. 11. Turn the engine OFF , then check the oil level. Top off the oil level if necessary. Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Radiator REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print See Figures 1 through 6 Fig. Fig. 1: View of the upper radiator hold-down bracket and bolt Fig. Fig. 2: It may be necessary to move an A/C line out of the way for easier radiator removal Fig. Fig. 3: Using a pair of pliers, squeeze the spring clip to remove the clamp Fig. Fig. 4: Disengage the connector to release the wiring harness Fig. Fig. 5: The lower radiator hose at the radiator may be hard to reach, as shown on this Integra model. If this is the case, remove the hose at the other end where it may be more accessible Fig. Fig. 6: Thread the radiator bolts in by hand to avoid cross-threading them 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. CAUTION Do not open the radiator draincock or remove the radiator cap when the cooling system is hot and under pressure. This can cause serious burns from hot, pressurized coolant. Allow a sufficient amount of time for the cooling system to cool down before opening up the system. 2. Loosen the radiator drain plug and, using a large capacity container, drain the cooling system. 3. Remove the radiator cap. 4. Disconnect the upper radiator hose. It is recommended that each clamp be matchmarked to the hose. Observe the marks and reinstall the clamps in exactly the same position when reinstalling the radiator. 5. Remove the radiator hoses. 6. Label and disengage the wiring from the thermosensors and the electric fan assemblies. 7. For vehicles with automatic transaxles, disconnect the oil cooler lines at the radiator. Plug the transaxle ports and the hose ends to contain the fluid and prevent contamination. 8. Remove the radiator. Be careful not to damage the radiators cooling fins while removing the unit. While the radiator is not heavy, it may be awkward. Use both hands to steady it during removal and installation 9. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Refill the cooling system with the proper type and amount of coolant. You may need to bleed the air out of the system to avoid the possibility of a trapped air pocket that may cause engine overheating. Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Rear Crankshaft Oil Seal REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1. Remove the transaxle, as outlined in Drive Train of this guide. 2. If equipped with an automatic transaxle vehicles, remove the driveplate from the crankshaft. 3. If equipped with a manual transaxle vehicles, remove the flywheel from the crankshaft. 4. Carefully pry the crankshaft seal out of the retainer. See Figures 1 and 2 Print Fig. Fig. 1: This seal puller makes gripping the lip of the rear main seal easy. Simply press the pointed edge into the rubber lip of the seal, pivot the arm, and pull lightly Fig. Fig. 2: Remove the seal by pulling it away from the crankshaft with your fingers To install: 5. Apply clean engine oil to the lip of the new seal. 6. Install the seal onto the crankshaft and into the retainer using the appropriate seal driver. 7. Install the flywheel or driveplate and the transaxle. Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Rocker Arm (Valve) Cover REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1.8L, 2.2L, and 2.3L Engines 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Label and disconnect any wires or hoses that interfere with valve cover removal. 3. Remove the spark plug wire cover on 1.8L, 2.2L and 2.3L engines. 4. Tag and disconnect the spark plug wires. 5. Unfasten all necessary retainers, then remove the rocker arm (valve) cover. If the cover sticks to the cylinder head, tap it lightly with a rubber Print mallet or the palm of your hand. See Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4 Fig. Fig. 1: Remove all of the valve cover bolts Fig. Fig. 2: You may need to tap the side of the valve cover lightly with a plastic or rubber mallet to break it free Fig. Fig. 3: Carefully remove the valve cover and gasket from the engine Fig. Fig. 4: Most Acura gaskets are made of a thin silicone rubber compound such as the one shown here 6. Thoroughly clean the gasket mating surfaces. 7. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. During installation, be sure the valve cover gasket is seated properly in the corners with no visible gap. Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Rocker Arms/Shafts REMOVAL & INSTALLATION The radio may have a coded theft protection circuit. Make sure you have the code before disconnecting the battery, removing the radio fuse, or removing the radio. 1.8L (B18B1) Engine 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Tag and disconnect the spark plug wires. 3. Remove the cylinder head/valve cover and timing belt cover. 4. Rotate the crankshaft to TDC, the compression stroke of the No. 1 piston, then remove the timing belt. 5. Remove the distributor from the cylinder head. Print 6. Install 5.0mm pin punches to the No.1 camshaft holders, then remove the camshaft sprockets. 7. Loosen the valve adjusters to remove as much spring tension as possible. 8. Remove the pin punches from the camshaft holders. 9. To check camshaft end play, perform the following: A. Loosen the end bearing cap bolts 1 turn. B. Install a dial indicator. C. Push the camshaft fully towards the back of the head, zero the dial indicator and push the camshaft fully the other way to read end play. D. End play on a new camshaft should be 0.002-0.006 in. (0.05-0.15mm), 0.020 in. (0.5mm) is the service limit. 10. To remove the camshaft bearing caps, loosen each bolt 2 turns at a time in a crisscross pattern to avoid damage to the valves or rockers. Mark the caps so they can be replaced in their original position. 11. Lift the camshafts from the cylinder head, wipe them clean and inspect the lift ramps. Replace the camshafts and rockers if the lobes are pitted, scored or excessively worn. 12. Tag or label the rocker arms before removing to install them to their original locations. 13. Use Plastigage® to check bearing clearance. The standard clearance is 0.0012-0.0027 in. (0.030-0.069mm), and absolute service limit is 0.006 in. (0.15mm). See Figure 1 Fig. Fig. 1: Exploded view of the rocker arms and shafts-1.8L (B18B1, B18C1, and B18C5) engines To install: 14. Check the following before installing the camshafts: A. Be certain the keyways on the camshafts are facing UP (No. 1 cylinder at TDC). B. The valve adjuster lock nuts should be loosened and the adjusting screws backed off before installation. 15. Lubricate the rocker arms and camshafts with clean oil. 16. Place the rocker arms on the pivot bolts and the valve stems, making sure that the rocker arms are in their original positions. 17. Install the camshaft seals with the open side (spring) facing in. Lubricate the lip of the seal. 18. Be sure the keyways on the camshafts are facing up and install the camshafts to the cylinder head. 19. Apply liquid gasket to the head mating surfaces of the No. 1 and No. 6 camshaft holders, then install them along with Nos. 2, 3, 4 and 5 camshaft holders. The arrows stamped on the holders should point toward the timing belt. Do not apply oil to the holder mating surface where the camshaft seals are housed. 20. Tighten the camshaft holders temporarily and be sure that the rocker arms are properly positioned. 21. Press the oil seals into the No.1 camshaft holders with a seal driver. 22. Tighten the bolts in a crisscross pattern to 7 ft. lbs. (10 Nm). Check that the rockers do not bind on the valves. 23. Install the cylinder head plug to the end of the cylinder head. If the plug has alignment marks, align the marks with the cylinder head upper surface. 24. If equipped with a timing belt back cover, install the cover and tighten the bolts to 7.2 ft. lbs. (9.8 Nm). 25. Install 5.0mm pin punches to the No.1 camshaft holders, then install the camshaft pulley keys onto the grooves in the camshafts. 26. Push the camshaft pulleys onto the camshafts, then tighten the retaining bolts to 27 ft. lbs. (38 Nm). 27. Install the timing belt and timing belt covers. Remove the pin punches from the camshaft holders. 28. Adjust the valves and pour oil over the camshafts and rocker arms. 29. Apply liquid gasket to the rubber seal at the eight corners of the recesses. Do not install the parts if 20 minutes or more have elapsed since applying the liquid gasket. Instead, reapply liquid gasket after removing old residue. 30. Install the cylinder head cover and engine ground cable. Be sure the contact surfaces are clean and do not touch surfaces where liquid gasket has been applied. 31. Tighten the cylinder head cover nuts in 2-3 steps. In the final step, tighten all nuts in sequence, to 7 ft. lbs. (10 Nm). 32. Install the distributor to the cylinder head and reconnect the spark plug wires to the spark plugs. 33. Connect the negative battery cable and enter the radio security code. 34. Change the engine oil. Wait at least 20 minutes for the sealant to cure before filling the engine with oil. 1.8L (B18C1, B18C5) Engine 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the cylinder head from the vehicle, as outlined later in this section. 3. Hold each rocker arm assembly together with a rubber band to prevent them from separating. 4. Remove the intake and exhaust rocker shaft orifices from the cylinder head. The rocker shaft orifices are different and should be identified when removed. Discard the O-rings on the orifices. 5. Remove the Variable Valve Timing and Electronic Lift Control (VTEC) solenoid from the cylinder head and discard the filter. 6. Remove the rocker arm shaft sealing bolts, discard the washers. 7. Insert 12mm bolts into the rocker arm shafts. Remove each rocker arm set while slowly pulling out the rocker arm shaft. Tag each rocker arm set to assure installation in their original locations. 8. Inspect the rocker arm pistons. If they do not move smoothly, replace the rocker arm assembly. 9. Remove the lost motion assembly from the cylinder head. Inspect the lost motion assembly by pushing the plunger with your finger. Replace the lost motion assembly if it does not move smoothly. See Figure 2 Fig. Fig. 2: Rocker arms with rubber band installed-1.8L (B18B1, B18C1 and B18C5) engines To install: 10. Install the lost motion assembly to the cylinder head. 11. Apply engine oil to the rocker arm pistons, then bundle the rocker arms with a rubber band. Apply a light coat of clean engine oil to the rocker arms. 12. Position the rocker arms in their original locations, if they are being reused. If new assembles are being used place them in the cylinder head. Don't forget to remove the rubber bands! 13. Lightly coat the rocker arm shafts with clean engine oil, then install the rocker arm shafts into the cylinder head. A 12mm bolt can be installed into the end of the rocker arm shafts to aid in their installation. Be sure to install the shafts in the proper positions. Remove the 12mm bolts from the rocker arm shafts, if used. 14. Clean and install the rocker arm shaft orifices with new O-rings. If the holes in the rocker arm shafts are not aligned screw a 12mm bolt into the end of the shaft to position the shaft. 15. Install the sealing bolts with new washers, tighten the bolts to 47 ft. lbs. (64 Nm). 16. Install the cylinder head into the vehicle, as outlined later in this section. 2.2L, 2.3L Engines 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Turn the crankshaft so the No. 1 piston is at Top Dead Center (TDC). The No. 1 piston is at TDC when the pointer on the block aligns with the white painted mark on the flywheel (manual transaxle) or driveplate (automatic transaxle). 3. Remove the air intake duct. 4. Remove the engine ground cable from the cylinder head cover. 5. Remove the connector and the terminal from the alternator, then remove the engine wiring harness from the valve cover. 6. Label, then detach the electrical connectors from the distributor and the spark plug wires from the spark plugs. Mark the position of the distributor and remove it from the cylinder head. 7. Remove the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) hose, then remove the cylinder head cover. Replace the rubber seals if damaged or deteriorated. 8. Ensure the words UP embossed on the camshaft pulley are aligned in the upward position. 9. Mark the rotation of the timing belt if it is to be used again. Loosen the timing belt adjusting nut 1 / 2 turn, then release the tension on the timing belt. Push the tensioner to release tension from the belt, then tighten the adjusting nut. 10. Remove the timing belt from the camshaft sprocket. WARNING Do not crimp or bend the timing belt more than 90°, or less than 1 in. (25mm) in diameter. 11. Remove the camshaft sprocket attaching bolt, then remove the sprocket. Do not lose the sprocket key. 12. Remove the side engine mount bracket B, then the timing belt back cover from behind the camshaft sprockets. 13. Loosen all of the rocker arm adjusting screws, then remove the pin punches from the camshaft caps. 14. Remove the camshaft holders, note the holders locations for ease of installation. Loosen the bolts in the reverse order of the holder bolts torque sequence. 15. Remove the camshaft from the cylinder head, then discard the camshaft seals. 16. Remove the rocker arms from the cylinder head. Note the locations of the rocker arms. The rocker arms have to be installed to their original locations if being reused. To install: 17. Lubricate the rocker arms with clean oil, then install the rocker arms on the pivot bolts and the valve stems. If the rocker arms are being reused, install them to their original locations. The lock nuts and adjustment screws should be loosened before installing the rocker arms. 18. Lubricate the camshaft with clean oil. 19. Install the camshaft seals to the end of the camshafts that the timing belt sprocket attaches to. The open side (spring) should be facing into the cylinder head when installed. 20. Be sure the keyways on the camshaft is facing up and install the camshaft to the cylinder head. 21. Apply liquid gasket to the cylinder head mating surfaces of the No. 1 and No. 5 camshaft holders, then install them along with No. 2, 3 and 4. 22. Snug the camshaft holders in place. 23. Press the camshaft seals securely into place. 24. Tighten the camshaft holder bolts in two steps, following the proper sequence, to ensure that the rockers do not bind on the valves. Tighten all the 6mm bolts to 104 inch lbs. (12 Nm) and the 8mm bolts to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm). See Figure 3 Fig. Fig. 3: Camshaft holders torque sequence-2.3L engine 25. Install the timing belt back cover. 26. Install the side engine mount bracket B. Tighten the bolt attaching the bracket to the cylinder head to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm). Tighten the bolts attaching the bracket to the side engine mount to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm). 27. Push the camshaft sprocket onto the camshaft, then tighten the retaining bolts to 43 ft. lbs. (59 Nm). 28. Ensure the words UP embossed on the camshaft pulley is aligned in the upward position. Install the timing belt to the camshaft sprockets. 29. Loosen, then tighten the timing belt adjuster nut. 30. Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise until the cam pulley has moved 3 teeth; this creates tension on the timing belt. Loosen, then tighten the adjusting nut and tighten it to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm). 31. Adjust the valves. 32. Tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to 181 ft. lbs. (250 Nm). 33. Install the cylinder head cover and tighten the cap nuts to 104 inch lbs. (12 Nm). Install the PCV hose to the cylinder head cover. 34. Install the distributor to the cylinder head. 35. Connect the spark plug wires to the correct spark plugs, then attach the distributor electrical connectors. 36. Install the alternator wiring harness to the cylinder head cover, then connect the terminal and connector to the alternator. 37. Connect the engine ground cable to the cylinder head cover. 38. Install the air intake duct. 39. Drain the oil from the engine into a sealable container. Install the drain plug and refill the engine with clean oil. 40. Connect the negative battery cable and enter the radio security code. 41. Start the engine, checking carefully for any leaks. 42. Recode the radio. 2.5L, 3.2L and 3.5L Engines 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the timing belt covers and cylinder head covers. 2. Rotate the crankshaft to Top Dead Center (TDC) compression of No.1 piston and remove the timing belt. See Figures 4 and 5 Fig. Fig. 4: Rocker arm and shaft assembly-2.5L G25A4 engines Fig. Fig. 5: Rocker arm assembly holder bolt torque sequence-2.5L G25A4 engines For 2.5L engines, the springs between the rocker arms are not all the same length. Carefully note their positions during disassembly. 3. Remove the camshaft sprocket. 4. Remove the cylinder head from the vehicle. 5. Loosen the rocker shaft holder bolts 1 turn at a time in the opposite of the installation sequence. Following this procedure will prevent the camshafts and rocker assemblies from warping. 6. After all bolts are loose, remove the rocker arm shafts as an assembly with the bolts still in the holders. 7. If the rocker shafts are to be disassembled, note that each rocker arm has a letter A or B stamped into the side. Before disassembling the rocker arms, make a note of the position of each letter so the arms can be reassembled the same way. 8. For 3.2L (C32A6) and 3.5L engines, do not remove the hydraulic tappets from the rocker arms unless they are to be replaced. Handle the rocker arms carefully so the oil does not drain out of the tappets. 9. Lift the camshafts from the cylinder head, wipe them clean and inspect the lift ramps. Replace the camshafts and rockers if the lobes are pitted, scored, or excessively worn. See Figures 6 and 7 Fig. Fig. 6: Exploded view of the rocker arms and related components-3.2L (C32A6) engine Fig. Fig. 7: Exploded view of the rocker arms and related components-3.5L engine To install: 10. Lubricate the camshaft and its journals with fresh engine oil. 11. Place a new camshaft seal on the end of the camshaft. The spring side of the seal must face in. Lubricate the journals and set the camshaft in place on the head. 12. Install the camshaft onto the cylinder head with the keyway pointed up. 13. Apply liquid gasket to the mounting surfaces of the camshaft end holders. 14. Set the rocker arm assemblies in place and start all the cam holder bolts. Be sure the rocker arms are properly positioned and turn each bolt in sequence two turns at a time until the holders are seated on the head. Follow this procedure to avoid damaging the camshaft and rocker assemblies. 15. When all the camshaft and rocker holders are seated, tighten the bolts in the same sequence. Tighten the 8mm bolts to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm) and the 6mm bolts to 104 inch lbs. (12 Nm). 16. Install the cylinder head. 17. Install the camshaft sprocket. Tighten the bolts to 51 ft. lbs. (70 Nm) for 2.5L engines to 51 ft. lbs. (70 Nm) and to 23 ft. lbs. (32 Nm) for the 3.2L (C32A6) engine. 18. Install the timing belt, adjust the valves and oil the camshaft before completing the assembly. 19. Install the cylinder head cover and timing cover. 20. On 2.5L engines, install the distributor. 21. Reconnect the negative battery cable. 22. Check for proper engine and valve train operation. 3.0L Engine 1. Remove the cylinder head cover. 2. Loosen the jam nuts on the adjusters, then back out the screws. 3. Loosen the rocker arm shaft bolts two turns at a time in the sequence shown. 4. Lift the rocker arm assembly from the cylinder head. Leave the bolts in the shafts to retain the rocker arms and springs. See Figure 8 Fig. Fig. 8: Be sure to loosen the rocker arm shaft bolts in the correct order as shown-3.0L engine To install: 5. Clean all parts in solvent, dry with compressed air and lubricate with clean engine oil. 6. Place the rocker arm assemblies on the cylinder head and install the bolts loosely. Be sure that all rocker arms are in alignment with their valves. See Figure 9 Fig. Fig. 9: Cylinder Valves 7. Tighten each bolt two turns at a time in the correct sequence. Tighten the bolts to 17 ft. lbs. (24 Nm). 8. Adjust the valves and install the cylinder head covers. Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Thermostat REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Drain the cooling system into a suitable container. 3. Locate the thermostat housing by following the upper radiator hose to the engine. 4. Loosen the hose clamps then carefully detach the hose from the fitting. If the hose is stuck, carefully use a pick to break the seal between the radiator hose and the housing. If the hose is deteriorated, replace it with a new one. 5. Disconnect any sensors or switches that may interfere with the removal of the thermostat from the housing. See Figures 1, 2 and 3 Fig. Fig. 1: Remove the thermostat housing bolts Fig. Fig. 2: Pull the water outlet neck away from the housing Fig. Fig. 3: Note the installed position of the thermostat, then remove it 6. Unfasten the retainers, then remove the thermostat housing. Some coolant may leak out of the housing as the seal is broken. 7. Remove the thermostat carefully noting how it's installed. 8. Clean the mating surfaces of the thermostat housing. Many thermostat housing's are made out of aluminum alloy. A plastic scraper is very effective and will not harm such metals. To install: See Figures 4 and 5 Fig. Fig. 4: A new gasket must be installed before installation Fig. Fig. 5: Install the thermostat with the air bleed valve at the top 9. Install the new thermostat and gasket. Install the thermostat with the jiggle pin facing up. This acts as an air bleed and must be at the top of the thermostat to operate properly. 10. Install the thermostat housing, then tighten the bolts securely. 11. Connect the radiator hose and tighten the hose clamps securely. 12. Install any remaining components, then refill the cooling system. 13. Start and run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature while checking for leaks. Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Timing Belt Covers REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1.8L engine Print To inspect the belt from the top you can gain access by removing only the valve cover. 1. Remove the negative battery cable. See Figures 1 and 2 Fig. Fig. 1: Loosening the timing belt cover bolts-Integra shown Fig. Fig. 2: Remove the middle cover spacer 2. Remove the splash shield from the wheel well. 3. Remove the power steering pump by loosening the adjusting bolts and removing the mounting bolts. 4. Loosen the adjusting and idler pulley bracket bolt to free the belt. 5. Loosen the adjusting nut and then the mounting nuts to allow the alternator belt to be removed. 6. If equipped, remove the cruise control actuator. 7. Remove the side engine mount bolts, then remove the mount. 8. Remove the valve cover (this is the upper timing belt cover). 9. Remove the crankshaft dampener bolt. 10. Remove the crankshaft dampener; this will allow access to the lower timing belt cover. 11. Remove the fasteners and remove the lower timing belt cover. Be careful when removing the crankshaft damper bolt. Excessive force may snap or strip the bolt. 12. The middle timing cover can be removed by unbolting the two fasteners. To install: See Figure 3 Fig. Fig. 3: Install the cover bolts by hand to avoid cross threading 13. Install the components in the reverse order of the removal procedure. 14. Connect the negative battery cable. Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Timing Belt and Sprockets For recommended timing belt replacement intervals, refer to General Information and Maintenance . Print REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Replace the timing and balancer shaft belts at no more that 105,000 miles (168,000km). Acura also specifies that under extreme conditions the timing and balancer shaft belts should be replaced more frequently, at 60,000 miles (100,000 km). These abnormal conditions include very high temperatures over 110°F (43°C) or very low ambient temperatures of minus 20°F (-29°C). 1.8L Engines 1. Remove the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the splash shield from the wheel well. See Figure 1 Fig. Fig. 1: Exploded view of the timing belt and cover assembly-1.8L engine 3. Remove the power steering pump by loosening the adjusting bolts and removing the mounting bolts. 4. Loosen the adjusting and idler pulley bracket bolt on the (A/C) to free the belt. 5. Loosen the adjusting nut and then the mounting nuts to allow the alternator belt to be removed. 6. Remove the cruise control actuator if equipped. 7. Remove the side engine mount bolts and then mount. 8. Remove the valve cover. 9. Remove the crankshaft bolt. Be careful when removing the crankshaft damper bolt. Excessive force may snap or strip the bolt. 10. The middle timing cover can be removed by unbolting the two fasteners. 11. Remove the lower timing belt cover. 12. The timing belt tensioner adjusting bolt must now be loosened no more than180°. See Figure 2 Fig. Fig. 2: View of the timing belt tensioner 13. The tension on the belt can be released by pushing against it. 14. After the tension is released retighten the adjusting bolt. 15. Remove the timing belt from the pulleys. If oil leakage is detected around the camshaft or crankshaft seals, replace them. 16. Remove the camshaft pulley(s) by removing the bolt(s) from the pulley(s). 17. The camshaft pulleys do not need to be match marked to the location of the camshafts. They are machined to only go on in one direction via the use of a woodruff key. It is a good idea to mark the pulleys left and right respectively. To install: 18. Install the camshaft pulleys. Clean the covers before installation. The smallest piece of dirt may cause premature belt failure. 19. Set the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys as in the illustration before installing the timing belt. 20. Set the crankshaft so that the No. 1 position is at top dead center (TDC). Position the groove on the teeth side of the belt to the pointer of the oil pump. 21. Install the timing belt, its components, and covers. 22. Align the TDC marks located on the intake and exhaust pulleys. See Figure 3 Fig. Fig. 3: Position the camshaft sprockets with the arrows in the "UP" position-1.8L engine 23. Install the belt in the following sequence: A. Timing belt drive pulley. B. Adjusting pulley. C. Water pump pulley. D. Exhaust camshaft pulley. E. Intake camshaft pulley. WARNING Turning the crankshaft in the clockwise direction may cause the timing belt to not seat properly causing component damage. 24. Turn the crankshaft about four to six turns counterclockwise to ensure that the belt properly seats on the pulleys. 25. Set the number one piston at top dead center (TDC). 26. Loosen the adjusting bolt (180°only) 27. Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise 3 teeth on the camshaft pulley, then tighten he adjusting bolt to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). See Figure 4 Fig. Fig. 4: Direction of rotation of the crankshaft pulley-1.8L engine 28. Check that the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys are at TDC. If the camshaft pulley is not positioned at TDC, remove the timing belt and repeat the above procedures. 29. Install the valve cover. 30. Install the engine mount(s). 31. If equipped, install the cruise control actuator. Lubricate the crankshaft pulley bolt with engine oil. See Figure 5 Fig. Fig. 5: Lubricate the crankshaft pulley bolt with engine oil-1.8L engine 32. Install the crankshaft damper and damper mounting bolt. Tighten the mounting bolt to 130 ft. lbs. (177 Nm). 33. Install the alternator, A/C, and power steering accessories. 34. Install the splash shield into the wheel well. 35. Connect the negative battery cable. 2.2L, 2.3L engines 1. Remove the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the splash shield from the wheel well. 3. Remove the power steering pump by loosening the adjusting bolts and removing the mounting bolts. See Figure 6 Fig. Fig. 6: Power steering adjusting and mounting bolt locations 4. Loosen the adjusting nut and then the mounting nuts to allow the alternator belt to be removed. See Figure 7 Fig. Fig. 7: Alternator mounting bolt location 5. Remove the alternator terminal and connector by pulling up on the lock. See Figure 8 Fig. Fig. 8: Exploded view of alternator wiring harness lock 6. If equipped, remove the cruise control actuator. Use a jack to support the engine before removing the engine mount. Use a block of wood to cushion the oil pan from being damaged. 7. Remove the side engine mount bolts and then mount. 8. Remove the dipstick from the tube and then remove the tube. 9. Remove the valve cover. 10. Remove the crankshaft pulley bolt and then the pulley. Be careful when removing the crankshaft damper bolt. Excessive force may snap or strip the bolt. 11. Remove the adjusting nuts rubber seal. 12. Remove the timing belt and balancer shaft covers. To prevent damage to the cover do not use them to store removed items such as fasteners or brackets. 13. The timing belt tensioner adjusting bolt must now be loosened no more than180°. 14. The tension on the belt can be released by pushing against it. 15. After the tension is released, retighten the adjusting bolt. If you are removing only the balancer belt, you can lock the timing belt adjuster arm by threading a 6 x 1.0 mm bolt in to hold the tension. Next loosen the adjusting nut about one turn. Push the tensioner to remove the any tension from the balancer belt. After the tension has been removed, tighten the adjusting bolt. See Figures 9 and 10 Fig. Fig. 9: Installing the 6.0 x 1.0mm bolt Fig. Fig. 10: View of the timing belt tensioner assembly 16. Remove the balancer and timing belts from the pulleys. If oil leakage is detected around the camshaft or crankshaft seals, replace them. 17. Remove the camshaft pulley(s) by removing the bolt(s) from the pulley(s). 18. The camshaft pulleys do not need to be match marked to the location of the camshafts. They are machined to only go on in one direction via the use of a woodruff key. It is a good idea to mark the pulleys left and right respectively. To install: 19. Installation of the timing belt is the reverse of the removal procedure. Follow the below steps to ensure that the timing and balancer belts are installed with the engine properly timed. 20. Remove the balancer drive pulley. 21. Position No. 1 piston at top dead center. 22. Position the dimple on the tooth of the timing belt drive pulley to the pointer on the oil pump. See Figure 11 Fig. Fig. 11: Aligning the timing belt drive pulley to the oil pump 23. Position the camshaft pulley with the stamping facing up. See Figure 12 Fig. Fig. 12: Positioning the camshaft sprocket. 24. Install the timing belt by routing it as follows: A. Crankshaft pulley B. Adjusting pulley C. Water pump pulley D. Camshaft pulley. See Figure 13 Fig. Fig. 13: Proper timing belt installation. 25. Loosen the adjusting nut to tension the timing belt, then retighten the nut. 26. Install the lower timing belt cover and the balancer belt drive pulley. 27. Install and tighten the crankshaft pulley and bolt. 28. Turn the crankshaft six turns to seat it on the pulley. 29. Adjust the timing belt tension. 30. Make sure that the crankshaft pulley and the camshaft pulleys are both positioned at top dead center. If the camshaft or crankshaft is not positioned at top dead center (TDC), you must remove the timing belt and readjust the position. 31. Remove the lower timing cover by removing the crankshaft pulley. 32. Set the number one piston at top dead center. 33. Install one of the 6.0 x 1.0mm bolts to lock the timing belt adjuster. 34. To verify that the balancer belt moves freely, loosen the adjusting nut 2 / 3 turn. 35. To remove tension from the belt, push on the adjuster mechanism. To align the rear balancer shaft, use a 6.0x1.0mm bolt, scribe a line 74mm (2.9 in) from the end of the bolt. Insert this bolt into the maintenance hole of the to the scribed line. See Figures 14 and 15 Fig. Fig. 14: Insert this bolt into the maintenance hole of the to the scribed line. Fig. Fig. 15: Align the pointer and the groove. 36. Align the front balancer groove and the pointer which is located on the oil pump housing. 37. Install the balancer belt. 38. Tension the balancer belt. 39. Remove the 6.0x1.0mm bolt, then install the sealing bolt. 40. Install the crankshaft pulley and then torque the pulley bolt to the correct specification. 41. Spin the crankshaft pulley approximately one turn then tighten the adjusting nut. 42. Remove the 6.0x1.0 mm bolt from the timing belt adjuster arm. 43. To install the lower timing cover you must remove the timing cover. 44. Do not loosen the adjusting nut while installing the rubber seal. 45. Install the crankshaft pulley then tighten the bolt to proper torque specs. 46. Install all other components. 47. Connect the negative battery cable. 48. Enter the anti-theft code for the radio, if applicable. 2.5L Engines See Figure 16 Fig. Fig. 16: Exploded view of timing belt and cover assembly Position the No. 1 piston at top dead center. 1. Remove the power steering pump by loosening the adjusting nut and removing the mounting bolts. 2. Remove the air conditioning compressor by loosening the adjusting nut and removing the mounting bolts. 3. Remove the alternator belt by loosening the adjusting nut and mounting bolt. See Figure 17 Fig. Fig. 17: Adjusting and mounting bolt location 4. Remove the 6 x 1.0 mm bolt from the dipstick filler tube. 5. Remove the dipstick and tube. See Figure 18 Fig. Fig. 18: Remove the engine oil dipstick tube 6. Remove the valve cover. 7. Remove the crankshaft pulley. 8. Remove the upper and lower timing belt covers. See Figure 19 Fig. Fig. 19: Remove the upper and lower timing belt covers 9. Relieve the tension from the timing belt by loosening the adjusting bolt no more than 180°. 10. Remove the timing belt from the pulleys. See Figure 20 Fig. Fig. 20: Loosen the adjusting bolt 180 degrees To install: 11. Installation is the reverse of removal. The key steps of the installation procedure are listed below. 12. Position the No. 1 piston at top dead center. This can be achieved by aligning the Top Dead Center (TDC) mark on the timing belt drive pulley with the mark on the oil pump. See Figure 21 Fig. Fig. 21: Aligning the timing marks 13. Position the camshaft pulley so that the TDC mark on the pulley lines up with the pointer on the back cover. See Figure 22 Fig. Fig. 22: Align the mark on the camshaft with the mark on the back cover 14. Install the timing belt on the crankshaft drive pulley. 15. Next position the belt around the adjusting pulley. 16. Position the belt around the water pump pulley. 17. Apply light tension to the timing belt as you loop it over the camshaft pulley. See Figure 23 Fig. Fig. 23: Proper timing belt routing 18. To tension the timing belt, loosen the adjusting nut. 19. Once the adjuster spring has applied tension to the timing belt, retighten the adjusting nut. 20. Install the lower and upper timing belt covers. See Figure 24 Fig. Fig. 24: Installing the timing belt covers 21. After installing the crankshaft pulley, tighten the bolt to the proper specifications. 22. To check that the timing belt has positioned itself on the pulley by rotating the crankshaft pulley about five to six turns. 23. Adjust the timing belt tension and check that the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys are at Top Dead Center (TDC). See Figure 90946g26 Fig. Fig. 25: Lining up the camshaft and crankshaft pulley marks 24. Install the remaining components in the reverse of the removal procedure. 25. Connect the negative battery cable. 3.0L Engines See Figure 26 Fig. Fig. 26: Exploded view of the timing belt cover and assembly 1. Remove the splash shield from the wheel well. 2. Release the tension from the automatic tensioner and then remove the alternator belt. 3. Remove the power steering pump. 4. Remove the dipstick tube and the sealing O-ring. 5. Support the engine using a jack. Place a block of wood between the jack and the oil pan to prevent damage to the pan. 6. Remove the side engine motor mount. 7. Remove the crankshaft pulley from the crankshaft. 8. Remove the upper and lower timing covers. 9. Remove the battery hold-down clamp. 10. Grind the end of the threaded rod to aid reinstallation, as shown in the accompanying figure. See Figure 27 Fig. Fig. 27: Grind the battery hold-down clamp as shown 11. Hold the timing belt adjuster in its current position by threading the battery clamp bolt into the guide just below the camshaft sprocket. See Figure 28 Fig. Fig. 28: Set the crankshaft pulley so the No. 1 piston is at TDC 15. Set the camshafts to the TDC mark on the valve cover. See Figure 29 Fig. Fig. 29: Set the camshafts to the TDC mark on the valve cover 16. Remove the battery clamp, that is holding the auto tensioner, from the back cover. 17. Remove the auto tensioner. 18. Remove the maintenance bolt from the tensioner. If the oil drains out of the tensioner, refill it with no more than 0.22 fl. oz. (6.5ml). 19. Clamp the auto tensioner in a vise. WARNING Do not clamp the tensioner by the body. 20. Use a flat head screw driver to turn the tensioner, then slip the special stopper tool or equivalent over the assembly to hold it in place. See Figure 30 Fig. Fig. 30: Turning the tensioner with a flat-head screw driver 21. Install the maintenance bolt. 22. Install the auto tensioner. 23. Install the timing belt in the following order: A. Loop the belt over the timing belt drive pulley. B. Install the timing belt around the adjusting pulley. C. Place it around the left camshaft pulley. D. Install it under the bottom of the water pump pulley. E. Route the belt around the right camshaft pulley. F. Place the last part of the belt around the back side of the idler pulley. See Figure 31 Fig. Fig. 31: Proper timing belt routing 24. Tighten the idler pulley bolt. 25. Remove the stopper tool. 26. Install the timing covers. 27. Install the crankshaft pulley. 28. To position the pulleys, turn the crankshaft pulley about five to six turns. 29. The crankshaft and camshaft pulleys should be at TDC. See Figure 32 Fig. Fig. 32: Inspection of the front and rear camshaft pulleys 30. If the camshafts are not at TDC, remove the timing belt and adjust the pulleys by repeating the above procedure. 31. Install all other components. 32. Connect the negative battery cable. 3.2L Engines 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Support the engine using a jack. Place a block of wood between the jack and the oil pan to prevent damage to the pan. See Figure 33 Fig. Fig. 33: Exploded view of the timing belt and related components 3. Remove the center engine support bracket. See Figure 34 Fig. Fig. 34: Removal of the engine center support bracket 4. Loosen the adjusting nut and then the mounting nuts to allow the alternator belt to be removed. 5. Loosen the adjusting and idler pulley bracket bolt on the (A/C) to free the belt. 6. Remove the power steering pump by loosening the adjusting bolts and removing the mounting bolts. 7. Remove the TCS upper and lower bracket assemblies. See Figure 35 Fig. Fig. 35: Removing the TCS upper and lower bracket. 8. Remove the TCS control valve assembly. 9. Remove the wiring harness and the oil pressure switch connector from the oil pressure switch. 10. Remove the idler pulley dipstick which is located by the idler pulley, 11. Remove the crankshaft pulley. 12. Remove the upper and lower timing belt covers. 13. Relieve the tension from the timing belt by loosening the adjusting bolt no more than 180°. See Figure 36 Fig. Fig. 36: Loosen the adjuster bolt 180 degrees 14. Remove the engine timing belt. To install: See Figures 37, 38 and 39 Fig. Fig. 37: Aligning the timing marks Fig. Fig. 38: Positioning the left camshaft Fig. Fig. 39: Positioning the right camshaft 15. Install the timing belt in the reverse order of removal. The key steps are listed below. 16. Set the crankshaft drive belt pulley to where the No. 1 piston is at Top Dead Center (TDC). 17. Align the camshafts to the TDC mark on the valve cover. 18. Install the timing belt in the following order: A. Loop the belt over the timing belt drive pulley. B. Install the timing belt around the adjusting pulley. C. Place it around the left camshaft pulley. D. Install it under the bottom of the water pump pulley. E. Route the belt around the right camshaft pulley. F. Place the last part of the belt around the back side of the idler pulley. See Figures 40 and 41 Fig. Fig. 40: Proper timing belt routing is essential Fig. Fig. 41: Check to be sure the crank and cam pulleys are at TDC 19. To tension the timing belt, loosen the adjusting nut. 20. Once the adjuster spring has applied tension to the timing belt, retighten the adjusting nut. 21. Install the lower and upper timing belt covers. 22. After installing the crankshaft pulley, tighten the bolt to the proper specs. 23. To check that the timing belt has positioned itself on the pulley by rotating the crankshaft pulley about five to six turns. 24. Adjust the timing belt tension and check that the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys are at top dead center (TDC). 25. If the camshafts are not at TDC, remove the timing belt and adjust the pulleys by repeating the above procedure. 26. Install the remaining components in the reverse of the removal procedure. 27. Connect the negative battery cable. 3.5L Engines See Figure 42 Fig. Fig. 42: Exploded view of the timing and balancer belts and components 1. Turn the engine so that the No. 1 piston is at the top dead center (TDC). 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 3. Remove the engine cover. 4. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake tubing. 5. Loosen the adjusting nut and then the mounting nuts to allow the alternator belt to be removed. 6. Loosen the adjusting and idler pulley bracket bolt on the (A/C) to free the belt. 7. Remove the power steering pump by loosening the adjusting bolts and removing the mounting bolts. 8. Remove the TCS upper and lower bracket assemblies. 9. Remove the TCS control valve assembly. See Figures 43, 44 and 45 Fig. Fig. 43: TCS upper and lower bracket assemblies Fig. Fig. 44: Disconnecting the TCS control valve assembly 10. Disconnect the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS). Fig. Fig. 45: Removing the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) 11. Remove all vacuum hoses. 12. Remove the breather hose from the engine. 13. Remove the ignition control module (ICM) bracket assembly. 14. Remove the idler pulley bracket as well as the dipstick tube. 15. Separate the crankshaft pulley from the crankshaft. 16. Remove the timing covers. 17. Relieve the tension from the balancer belt by loosening the adjusting bolt no more than 180°. 18. Remove the balancer belt. See Figure 46 Fig. Fig. 46: Removing the balancer belt 19. Relieve the tension from the timing belt by loosening the adjusting bolt no more than 180°, then remove the timing belt. See Figure 47 Fig. Fig. 47: Loosen the adjusting bolt, then remove the timing belt To install: Do not turn the engine with the timing belt removed. This is an interference engine and the pistons may hit the valves if the valve train is out of sync with the crankshaft. 20. Remove the spark plugs from the cylinder head. 21. Remove the timing belt guide plate by first removing the balancer belt drive. 22. Position the number one piston at top dead center. 23. Position the camshaft pulleys at the top dead center mark on the back cover. See Figure 48 Fig. Fig. 48: Left and right camshaft timing marks. 24. Install the timing belt in the following order: A. Loop the belt over the timing belt drive pulley. B. Install the timing belt around the adjusting pulley. C. Place it around the left camshaft pulley. D. Install it under the bottom of the water pump pulley. E. Route the belt around the right camshaft pulley. See Figure 49 Fig. Fig. 49: Make sure the timing belt is routed correctly 25. To tension the timing belt, loosen the adjusting nut. 26. Once the adjuster spring has applied tension to the timing belt, retighten the adjusting nut. 27. Install the lower and upper timing belt covers. 28. After installing the crankshaft pulley, tighten the bolt to the proper specs. 29. To check that the timing belt has positioned itself on the pulley by rotating the crankshaft pulley about five to six turns. 30. Adjust the timing belt tension and check that the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys are at top dead center (TDC). 31. If the camshafts are not at TDC, remove the timing belt and adjust the pulleys by repeating the above procedure. 32. Install the remaining components in the reverse of removal procedure. 33. Connect the negative battery cable. Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Water Pump REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print The radio may have a coded theft protection circuit. Make sure you have the code before disconnecting the battery, removing the radio fuse, or removing the radio. 1.8L Engines 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. If applicable, remove the front under panel. 3. Gradually release the system pressure by slowly and carefully removing the radiator cap. Be sure to protect your hands with gloves or a shop rag. 4. Drain the engine coolant into a sealable container. 5. Remove the timing belt from the engine. 6. Remove the camshaft pulleys and remove the back cover. 7. Unfasten the five water pump mounting bolts, then remove the water pump. 8. Remove and discard the old O-ring. 9. Remove the dowel pins from the oil water pump. 10. Clean the O-ring groove and the water pump mounting surface on the engine. To install: 11. Install the dowel pins to the new water pump. 12. Position a new O-ring to the new water pump, Apply a small amount of sealant to the O-ring to hold it in position. 13. Place the new water pump on the engine and install the mounting bolts. Tighten the mounting bolts to 104 inch lbs. (12 Nm). 14. Install the back cover and the camshaft pulleys. 15. Install the timing belt. 16. Fill the engine with coolant and bleed the air from the cooling system. 17. Connect the negative battery cable and enter the radio security code. 18. Run the engine and check for cooling system leaks. 2.2L, 2.3L, 2.5L, 3.0L, 3.2L and 3.5L Engines Perform this service operation with the engine cold. 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the front splash panel and release the system pressure by slowly removing the radiator cap. 3. Drain the cooling system. 4. Remove the timing belt. Inspect the timing belt for any signs of damage or oil and coolant contamination. Replace the timing belt if there is any doubt about its condition. 5. On 1996-97 3.2 TL and 1996-00 3.5 RL models, remove the left camshaft pulley and back cover. 6. On 1997-00 3.0 CL models and 1999-00 3.2 TL models, remove the timing belt tensioner. 7. Remove the water pump bolts. Then, remove the water pump and sprocket assembly from the engine block. Remove the O-rings from the water passage. See Figure 1 Fig. Fig. 1: Water pump mounting and bolt torque specifications-3.5L engine shown To install: 8. Before installation, be sure all gasket and O-ring groove surfaces are clean. 9. Install the water pump with a new O-ring. Use new bolts and tighten the 6mm mounting bolts evenly to 104 inch lbs. (12 Nm) and the 8mm bolts to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm). 10. If removed, install the timing belt rear cover and camshaft pulley. 11. If removed, install the timing belt tensioner. 12. Install the timing belt and timing belt covers. 13. Install and adjust the tension of the accessory drive belts. 14. Close the cooling system drain plug. Refill and bleed the cooling system. 15. Connect the negative battery cable. 16. Start the engine, allow it to reach normal operating temperature, check for leaks, and top off as necessary. 17. Enter the radio security code. Back to Top Emission Controls Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Crankcase Emissions Crankcase emissions are made up of water, acids, unburned fuel, oil fumes and particulates. These emissions are classified as hydrocarbons (HC) and are formed by the small amount of unburned, compressed air/fuel mixture entering the crankcase from the combustion area (between the cylinder walls and piston rings) during the compression and power strokes. The head of the compression and combustion help to form the remaining crankcase emissions. Print Since the first engines, crankcase emissions were allowed into the atmosphere through a road draft tube, mounted on the lower side of the engine block. Fresh air came in through an open oil filler cap or breather. The air passed through the crankcase mixing with blow-by gases. The motion of the vehicle and the air blowing past the open end of the road draft tube caused a low pressure area (vacuum) at the end of the tube. Crankcase emissions were simply drawn out of the road draft tube into the air. To control the crankcase emission, the road draft tube was deleted. A hose and/or tubing was routed from the crankcase to the intake manifold so the blow-by emission could be burned with the air/fuel mixture. However, it was found that intake manifold vacuum, used to draw the crankcase emissions into the manifold, would vary in strength at the wrong time and not allow the proper emission flow. A regulating valve was needed to control the flow of air through the crankcase. Testing, showed the removal of the blow-by gases from the crankcase as quickly as possible, was most important to the longevity of the engine. Should large accumulations of blow-by gases remain and condense, dilution of the engine oil would occur to form water, soots, resins, acids and lead salts, resulting in the formation of sludge and varnishes. This condensation of the blow-by gases occurs more frequently on vehicles used in numerous starting and stopping conditions, excessive idling and when the engine is not allowed to attain normal operating temperature through short runs. Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Evaporative Emissions Gasoline fuel is a major source of pollution, before and after it is burned in the automobile engine. From the time the fuel is refined, stored, pumped and transported, again stored until it is pumped into the fuel tank of the vehicle, the gasoline gives off unburned hydrocarbons (HC) into the atmosphere. Through the redesign of storage areas and venting systems, the pollution factor was diminished, but not eliminated, from the refinery standpoint. However, the automobile still remained the primary source of vaporized, unburned hydrocarbon (HC) emissions. Print Fuel pumped from an underground storage tank is cool but when exposed to a warmer ambient temperature, will expand. Before controls were mandated, an owner might fill the fuel tank with fuel from an underground storage tank and park the vehicle for some time in warm area, such as a parking lot. As the fuel would warm, it would expand and should no provisions or area be provided for the expansion, the fuel would spill out of the filler neck and onto the ground, causing hydrocarbon (HC) pollution and creating a severe fire hazard. To correct this condition, the vehicle manufacturers added overflow plumbing and/or gasoline tanks with built in expansion areas or domes. However, this did not control the fuel vapor emission from the fuel tank. It was determined that most of the fuel evaporation occurred when the vehicle was stationary and the engine not operating. Most vehicles carry 5-25 gallons (19-95 liters) of gasoline. Should a large concentration of vehicles be parked in one area, such as a large parking lot, excessive fuel vapor emissions would take place, increasing as the temperature increases. To prevent the vapor emission from escaping into the atmosphere, the fuel systems were designed to trap the vapors while the vehicle is stationary, by sealing the system from the atmosphere. A storage system is used to collect and hold the fuel vapors from the carburetor (if equipped) and the fuel tank when the engine is not operating. When the engine is started, the storage system is then purged of the fuel vapors, which are drawn into the engine and burned with the air/fuel mixture. Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Exhaust Gases The exhaust gases emitted into the atmosphere are a combination of burned and unburned fuel. To understand the exhaust emission and its composition, we must review some basic chemistry. Print When the air/fuel mixture is introduced into the engine, we are mixing air, composed of nitrogen (78 percent), oxygen (21 percent) and other gases (1 percent) with the fuel, which is 100 percent hydrocarbons (HC), in a semi-controlled ratio. As the combustion process is accomplished, power is produced to move the vehicle while the heat of combustion is transferred to the cooling system. The exhaust gases are then composed of nitrogen, a diatomic gas (N 2 ), the same as was introduced in the engine, carbon dioxide (CO 2 ), the same gas that is used in beverage carbonation, and water vapor (H 2 O). The nitrogen (N 2 ), for the most part, passes through the engine unchanged, while the oxygen (O 2 ) reacts (burns) with the hydrocarbons (HC) and produces the carbon dioxide (CO 2 ) and the water vapors (H 2 O). If this chemical process would be the only process to take place, the exhaust emissions would be harmless. However, during the combustion process, other compounds are formed which are considered dangerous. These pollutants are hydrocarbons (HC), carbon monoxide (CO), oxides of nitrogen (NOx) oxides of sulfur (SOx) and engine particulates. HYDROCARBONS Hydrocarbons (HC) are essentially fuel which was not burned during the combustion process or which has escaped into the atmosphere through fuel evaporation. The main sources of incomplete combustion are rich air/fuel mixtures, low engine temperatures and improper spark timing. The main sources of hydrocarbon emission through fuel evaporation on most vehicles used to be the vehicle's fuel tank and carburetor float bowl. To reduce combustion hydrocarbon emission, engine modifications were made to minimize dead space and surface area in the combustion chamber. In addition, the air/fuel mixture was made more lean through the improved control which feedback carburetion and fuel injection offers and by the addition of external controls to aid in further combustion of the hydrocarbons outside the engine. Two such methods were the addition of air injection systems, to inject fresh air into the exhaust manifolds and the installation of catalytic converters, units that are able to burn traces of hydrocarbons without affecting the internal combustion process or fuel economy. To control hydrocarbon emissions through fuel evaporation, modifications were made to the fuel tank to allow storage of the fuel vapors during periods of engine shut-down. Modifications were also made to the air intake system so that at specific times during engine operation, these vapors may be purged and burned by blending them with the air/fuel mixture. CARBON MONOXIDE Carbon monoxide is formed when not enough oxygen is present during the combustion process to convert carbon (C) to carbon dioxide (CO 2 ). An increase in the carbon monoxide (CO) emission is normally accompanied by an increase in the hydrocarbon (HC) emission because of the lack of oxygen to completely burn all of the fuel mixture. Carbon monoxide (CO) also increases the rate at which the photo chemical smog is formed by speeding up the conversion of nitric oxide (NO) to nitrogen dioxide (NO 2 ). To accomplish this, carbon monoxide (CO) combines with oxygen (O 2 ) and nitric oxide (NO) to produce carbon dioxide (CO 2 ) and nitrogen dioxide (NO 2 ). (CO + O 2 + NO = CO 2 + NO 2 ). The dangers of carbon monoxide, which is an odorless and colorless toxic gas are many. When carbon monoxide is inhaled into the lungs and passed into the blood stream, oxygen is replaced by the carbon monoxide in the red blood cells, causing a reduction in the amount of oxygen supplied to the many parts of the body. This lack of oxygen causes headaches, lack of coordination, reduced mental alertness and, should the carbon monoxide concentration be high enough, death could result. NITROGEN Normally, nitrogen is an inert gas. When heated to approximately 2500°F (1371°C) through the combustion process, this gas becomes active and causes an increase in the nitric oxide (NO) emission. Oxides of nitrogen (NOx) are composed of approximately 97-98 percent nitric oxide (NO). Nitric oxide is a colorless gas but when it is passed into the atmosphere, it combines with oxygen and forms nitrogen dioxide (NO 2 ). The nitrogen dioxide then combines with chemically active hydrocarbons (HC) and when in the presence of sunlight, causes the formation of photo-chemical smog. Ozone To further complicate matters, some of the nitrogen dioxide (NO 2 ) is broken apart by the sunlight to form nitric oxide and oxygen. (NO 2 + sunlight = NO + O). This single atom of oxygen then combines with diatomic (meaning 2 atoms) oxygen (O 2 ) to form ozone (O 3 ). Ozone is one of the smells associated with smog. It has a pungent and offensive odor, irritates the eyes and lung tissues, affects the growth of plant life and causes rapid deterioration of rubber products. Ozone can be formed by sunlight as well as electrical discharge into the air. The most common discharge area on the automobile engine is the secondary ignition electrical system, especially when inferior quality spark plug cables are used. As the surge of high voltage is routed through the secondary cable, the circuit builds up an electrical field around the wire, which acts upon the oxygen in the surrounding air to form the ozone. The faint glow along the cable with the engine running that may be visible on a dark night, is called the "corona discharge." It is the result of the electrical field passing from a high along the cable, to a low in the surrounding air, which forms the ozone gas. The combination of corona and ozone has been a major cause of cable deterioration. Recently, different and better quality insulating materials have lengthened the life of the electrical cables. Although ozone at ground level can be harmful, ozone is beneficial to the earth's inhabitants. By having a concentrated ozone layer called the "ozonosphere," between 10 and 20 miles (16-32 km) up in the atmosphere, much of the ultra violet radiation from the sun's rays are absorbed and screened. If this ozone layer were not present, much of the earth's surface would be burned, dried and unfit for human life. OXIDES OF SULFUR 1 Oxides of sulfur (SOx) were initially ignored in the exhaust system emissions, since the sulfur content of gasoline as a fuel is less than / 10 of 1 percent. Because of this small amount, it was felt that it contributed very little to the overall pollution problem. However, because of the difficulty in solving the sulfur emissions in industrial pollution and the introduction of catalytic converters to automobile exhaust systems, a change was mandated. The automobile exhaust system, when equipped with a catalytic converter, changes the sulfur dioxide (SO 2 ) into sulfur trioxide (SO 3 ). When this combines with water vapors (H 2 O), a sulfuric acid mist (H 2 SO 4 ) is formed and is a very difficult pollutant to handle since it is extremely corrosive. This sulfuric acid mist that is formed, is the same mist that rises from the vents of an automobile battery when an active chemical reaction takes place within the battery cells. When a large concentration of vehicles equipped with catalytic converters are operating in an area, this acid mist may rise and be distributed over a large ground area causing land, plant, crop, paint and building damage. PARTICULATE MATTER A certain amount of particulate matter is present in the burning of any fuel, with carbon constituting the largest percentage of the particulates. In gasoline, the remaining particulates are the burned remains of the various other compounds used in its manufacture. When a gasoline engine is in good internal condition, the particulate emissions are low but as the engine wears internally, the particulate emissions increase. By visually inspecting the tail pipe emissions, a determination can be made as to where an engine defect may exist. An engine with light gray or blue smoke emitting from the tail pipe normally indicates an increase in the oil consumption through burning due to internal engine wear. Black smoke would indicate a defective fuel delivery system, causing the engine to operate in a rich mode. Regardless of the color of the smoke, the internal part of the engine or the fuel delivery system should be repaired to prevent excess particulate emissions. Diesel and turbine engines emit a darkened plume of smoke from the exhaust system because of the type of fuel used. Emission control regulations are mandated for this type of emission and more stringent measures are being used to prevent excess emission of the particulate matter. Electronic components are being introduced to control the injection of the fuel at precisely the proper time of piston travel, to achieve the optimum in fuel ignition and fuel usage. Other particulate after-burning components are being tested to achieve a cleaner emission. Good grades of engine lubricating oils should be used, which meet the manufacturer's specification. Cut-rate oils can contribute to the particulate emission problem because of their low flash or ignition temperature point. Such oils burn prematurely during the combustion process causing emission of particulate matter. The cooling system is an important factor in the reduction of particulate matter. The optimum combustion will occur, with the cooling system operating at a temperature specified by the manufacturer. The cooling system must be maintained in the same manner as the engine oiling system, as each system is required to perform properly in order for the engine to operate efficiently for a long time. Back to Top Fuel System Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Fuel Charging Assembly REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Relieve the fuel system pressure, as outlined earlier in this section. 3. Detach the electrical harness connectors. 4. Remove the vacuum hose and fuel return hose from the fuel pressure regulator. 5. Remove the fuel line from the fuel rail. 6. Unfasten the fuel rail retaining nuts, then remove the fuel rail. To install: 7. Install the fuel rail and secure with the retaining nuts. 8. Connect the fuel line to the fuel rail. 9. Install the vacuum hose and fuel return hose to the fuel pressure regulator. 10. Attach the electrical harness connectors. 11. Connect the negative battery cable. 12. Pressurize the fuel system by turning the ignition switch to the ON position. 13. Check for leaks, if none are found, start the engine and recheck for any leaks. Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Fuel Injector(s) REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print See Figures 1 through 7 Fig. Fig. 1: View of a typical Acura fuel rail and injectors Fig. Fig. 2: Remove the fuel rail and injectors from the intake manifold Fig. Fig. 3: Always replace the fuel injector O-rings when ever the injectors are removed and reinstalled Fig. Fig. 4: Remove the injector from the fuel rail Fig. Fig. 5: Use a pick tool to remove the injector O-ring Fig. Fig. 6: Check needle and seat of the injector for carbon deposits that may inhibit the injector from closing all of the way Fig. Fig. 7: The fuel injectors on the Integra have a spacer and a O-ring gasket. Both must be replaced whenever the injectors have been removed CAUTION Fuel injection systems remain under pressure, even after the engine has been turned OFF. The fuel system pressure must be relieved before disconnecting any fuel lines. Failure to do so may result in fire and/or personal injury. CAUTION Observe all applicable safety precautions when working around fuel. Whenever servicing the fuel system, always work in a well ventilated area. Do not allow fuel spray or vapors to come in contact with a spark or open flame. Keep a dry chemical fire extinguisher near the work area. Always keep fuel in a container specifically designed for fuel storage; also, always properly seal fuel containers to avoid the possibility of fire or explosion. 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Relieve the fuel system pressure. 3. Remove the connectors from the fuel rail. 4. Disconnect the vacuum hose and fuel return from the fuel pressure regulator. 5. Loosen the retainer nuts on the fuel rail. 6. Remove the fuel rail. 7. Grasp the fuel injectors body and pull up while gently rocking the fuel injector from side to side. 8. Once removed, inspect the fuel injector cap and body for signs of deterioration. Replace as required. 9. Remove the O-rings and discard. If an O-ring or end cap is missing, look in the intake manifold for the missing part. To install: 10. Install new O-rings onto each injector and apply a small amount of clean engine oil to the O-rings. 11. Install the injectors using a slight twisting downward motion. 12. Install the injector retaining clips. 13. Install the fuel injection supply manifold (fuel rail). 14. Connect the negative battery cable. 15. Run the engine at idle for 2 minutes, then turn the engine OFF and check for fuel leaks and proper operation. TESTING The easiest way to test the operation of the fuel injectors is to listen for a clicking sound coming from the injectors while the engine is running. This is accomplished using a mechanic's stethoscope, or a long screwdriver. Place the end of the stethoscope or the screwdriver (tip end, not handle) onto the body of the injector. Place the ear pieces of the stethoscope in your ears, or if using a screwdriver, place your ear on top of the handle. An audible clicking noise should be heard; this is the solenoid operating. If the injector makes this noise, the injector driver circuit and computer are operating as designed. Continue testing all the injectors this way. CAUTION Be extremely careful while working on an operating engine, make sure you have no dangling jewelry, extremely loose clothes, power tool cords or other items that might get caught in a moving part of the engine.All Injectors Clicking If all the injectors are clicking, but you have determined that the fuel system is the cause of your driveability problem, continue diagnostics. Make sure that you have checked fuel pump pressure as outlined earlier in this section. An easy way to determine a weak or unproductive cylinder is a cylinder drop test. This is accomplished by removing one spark plug wire at a time, and seeing which cylinder causes the least difference in the idle. The one that causes the least change is the weak cylinder. If the injectors were all clicking and the ignition system is functioning properly, remove the injector of the suspect cylinder and bench test it. This is accomplished by checking for a spray pattern from the injector itself. Install a fuel supply line to the injector (or rail if the injector is left attached to the rail) and momentarily apply 12 volts DC and a ground to the injector itself; a visible fuel spray should appear. If no spray is achieved, replace the injector and check the running condition of the engine. One or More Injectors Are Not Clicking See Figures 8, 9, 10 and 11 Fig. Fig. 8: Unplug the fuel injector connector Fig. Fig. 9: Probe the two terminals of a fuel injector to check it's resistance Fig. Fig. 10: Plug the correct "noid" light directly into the injector harness connector Fig. Fig. 11: If the correct "noid" light flashes while the engine is running, the injector driver circuit inside the PCM is working If one or more injectors are found to be not operating, testing the injector driver circuit and computer can be accomplished using a "noid" light. First, with the engine not running and the ignition key in the OFF position, remove the connector from the injector you plan to test, then plug the "noid" light tool into the injector connector. Start the engine and the "noid" light should flash, signaling that the injector driver circuit is working. If the "noid" light flashes, but the injector does not click when plugged in, test the injector's resistance. resistance should be between 11-18 ohms. If the "noid" light does not flash, the injector driver circuit is faulty. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Unplug the "noid" light from the injector connector and also unplug the PCM. Check the harness between the appropriate pins on the harness side of the PCM connector and the injector connector. Resistance should be less than 5.0 ohms; if not, repair the circuit. If resistance is within specifications, the injector driver inside the PCM is faulty and replacement of the PCM will be necessary. Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Fuel Pressure Regulator REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print The fuel pressure regulator keeps a constant fuel pressure to the fuel injectors. When the manifold pressure and fuel pressure vary more than 43 psi (294 kPa) the diaphragm is pushed upward causing the excess fuel to be fed back into the fuel tank through a return line. CAUTION Observe all applicable safety precautions when working around fuel. Whenever servicing the fuel system, always work in a well ventilated area. Do not allow fuel spray or vapors to come in contact with a spark or open flame. Keep a dry chemical fire extinguisher near the work area. Always keep fuel in a container specifically designed for fuel storage; also, always properly seal fuel containers to avoid the possibility of fire or explosion. See Figure 1 Fig. Fig. 1: Cross-sectional views of the fuel pressure regulator in both the open and closed positions 1. Properly relieve the fuel system pressure. 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 3. Detach the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator. 4. Unfasten the two fuel pressure regulator retaining bolts. 5. Remove the fuel pressure regulator and the O-rings. Discard the O-rings. To install: 6. Lubricate the new O-rings with a light engine oil. 7. Position a new O-rings onto the fuel pressure regulator. 8. Place the fuel pressure regulator into position and install the retainers. 9. Attach the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator. 10. Connect the negative battery cable. 11. Run the engine at idle for 2 minutes, then turn the engine OFF and check for fuel leaks and proper operation. Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Fuel Pump REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print CAUTION Observe all applicable safety precautions when working around fuel. Whenever servicing the fuel system, always work in a well ventilated area. Do not allow fuel spray or vapors to come in contact with a spark or open flame. Keep a dry chemical fire extinguisher near the work area. Always keep fuel in a container specifically designed for fuel storage; also, always properly seal fuel containers to avoid the possibility of fire or explosion. CAUTION The fuel injection system remains under pressure, even after the engine has been turned OFF. The fuel system pressure MUST BE relieved before disconnecting any fuel lines. Failure to do so may result in fire and/or personal injury.See Figure 1 Integra and Legend Coupe Fig. Fig. 1: Exploded view of an Acura fuel pump assembly 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Relieve the fuel pressure, as outlined earlier in this section. 3. Open the fuel tank filler cap to vent off pressure in the tank. 4. Remove the rear seat. 5. Remove the access panel. 6. Unplug the electrical connector from the fuel pump. WARNING Ensure that the battery is disconnected before any wires are removed. 7. Remove the fuel pump mounting nuts, then remove the fuel pump from the tank. 8. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. CL, TL, and Vigor 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Relieve the fuel pressure, as outlined earlier in this section. 3. Open the fuel tank filler cap to vent off pressure in the tank. 4. Remove the fuel tank, as outlined later in this section. 5. Detach the electrical connector from the fuel pump. WARNING Ensure that the battery is disconnected before any wires are removed. 6. Remove the fuel pump mounting nuts, then remove the fuel pump from the tank. 7. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. RL 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Relieve the fuel pressure, as outlined earlier in this section. 3. Open the fuel tank filler cap to vent off pressure in the tank. 4. Remove the rear seat cushion. 5. Remove the rear access panel from the floor. 6. Detach the connector from the fuel pump. WARNING Ensure that the battery is disconnected before any wires are removed. 7. Remove the fuel pump mounting nuts, then remove the fuel pump from the tank. 8. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Testing The Fuel Pump If you suspect a problem with the fuel pump, listen to the pump during the first five seconds after the ignition key is turned to the "ON" position. You should hear the fuel pump motor running. Integra 1. Remove the rear seat. 2. Remove the access panel. 3. Detach the fuel pump 2-prong connector. WARNING Be sure the ignition switch is OFF before removing the wires. 4. Connect the No. 4 terminal and No. 5 terminal, using a jumper wire. 5. Battery voltage must be present at terminal number two when the ignition is ON . 6. If the battery voltage is present, check the fuel pump ground. 7. If the ground is OK check the fuel pump. 8. If battery voltage is not present, check the wiring harness. 9. If all wiring checks out, you must next test the fuel pressure, as outlined later in this section. 2.2L, 2.3L 3.0CL & 2.5TL 1. Remove the trunk floor. 2. Remove the access panel. 3. Unplug the fuel pump 3-prong connector. WARNING Be sure the ignition switch is OFF before removing the wires. 4. Connect the No. 4 terminal and No.5 terminal using a jumper wire. 5. For the 2.2L, 2.3L 3.0CL, battery voltage must be present at terminal number one when the ignition is ON . 6. For the 2.2L, 2.3L 3.0CL, battery voltage must be present at terminal number three when the ignition is ON . 7. If the battery voltage is present, check the fuel pumps ground. 8. If the ground is OK, check the fuel pump. 9. If battery voltage is not present, check the wiring harness. 10. If all wiring checks out, you must next test the fuel pressure, as outlined later in this section. 3.2TL 3.5RL 1. On the 3.2TL, remove the trunk floor. 2. On the 3.5RL, remove the rear seat. 3. Remove the access panel. WARNING Be sure the ignition switch is OFF before removing the wires. 4. Remove the wires from the PGM-FI main relay connector. 5. Connect the No. 2 terminal and No. 5 terminal using a jumper wire. 6. On the 3.2TL, battery voltage must be present at terminal number three when the ignition is ON . 7. On the 3.5RL, battery voltage must be present at terminal number seven when the ignition is ON . 8. If the battery voltage is present, check the fuel pump ground. 9. If the ground is OK, check the fuel pump. 10. If battery voltage is not present, check the wiring harness. 11. If all wiring checks out, you must next test the fuel pressure, as outlined later in this section. Legend & Vigor 1. On the Legend, remove the rear seat. 2. On the Vigor, remove the trunk floor. 3. Remove the access panel. Be sure the ignition switch is OFF before removing the wires. 4. Remove the wires from the PGM-FI main relay connector. 5. Connect the No. 5 terminal and No. 7 terminal using a jumper wire. 6. Battery voltage must be present at the fuel pump connector, when the ignition is "ON". 7. If the battery voltage is present, check the fuel pumps ground. 8. If the ground is OK, check the fuel pump. 9. If battery voltage is not present, check the wiring harness. 10. If all wiring checks out, you must next test the fuel pressure, as outlined later in this section. FUEL PRESSURE TESTING 1. Relieve the fuel filler cap. 2. Remove the service bolt from the fuel filter. See Figures 2 and 3 Fig. Fig. 2: Loosen the service bolt ... Fig. Fig. 3: ... then remove the service bolt from the fuel filter 3. Install a fuel pressure gauge. 4. Start the engine and measure the fuel pressure with the engine idling and the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line pinched off. 5. If the engine wont start, turn on the ignition switch ON , wait two seconds, then turn off the ignition switch OFF . Turn the ignition switch back ON again and read the fuel pressure. 6. The acceptable fuel pressure is 43.4-50.5 psi (299-348 kPa). 7. Reconnect the vacuum hose to the pressure regulator. 8. The fuel pressure should be 34.8-41.9 psi (240-289 kPa). 9. If the fuel pressure is higher than normal, inspect the fuel return hose for a clog or pinched area. Also check for a faulty fuel pressure regulator. 10. If the fuel pressure is lower than normal, inspect the system for a clogged fuel filter, faulty pressure regulator, or fuel line leakage. See Figure 4 Fig. Fig. 4: Checking fuel pressure with a gauge 11. Once the test is complete, perform the following: A. Remove the fuel pressure gauge. B. Install the service port bolt and tighten to 25 ft. lbs. (33 Nm). C. Install the fuel filler cap. Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information General Information The fuel system includes such components as a fuel tank, lines, in-tank high pressure fuel pump, PGM-FI main relay, filter, pressure regulator, injectors, and fuel pulsation dampener. This style fuel injection system delivers pressurized fuel to the injectors with the engine ON and cuts that fuel delivery when the engine is turned OFF . Print Acura prides itself in being a technologically advanced automobile manufacturer. This is seen in various aspects of the company's design philosophy, and the fuel injection system was not an area to be left out. For example, on the Integra GS-R models, the fuel injectors were altered by a mere eight degrees from their previous design. This was done to position the injectors directly at the center of the intake valves to further enhance the vaporization of the sprayed fuel with the incoming air. This reduced fuel condensation on the intake walls and improved driveability as well as throttle response. As you can see, the fuel injection system was carefully designed and tested. Therefore use caution and common sense when disconnecting and reinstalling fuel system components. Precision and accuracy count! FUEL SYSTEM SERVICE PRECAUTIONS Safety is an important factor when servicing the fuel system. Failure to conduct maintenance and repairs in a safe manner may result in serious personal injury. Maintenance and testing of the vehicle's fuel system components can be accomplished safely and effectively by adhering to the following rules and guidelines. To avoid the possibility of fire and personal injury, always disconnect the negative battery cable unless the repair or test procedure requires that battery voltage be applied. Always relieve the fuel system pressure prior to disconnecting any fuel system component (injector, fuel rail, pressure regulator, etc.), fitting or fuel line connection. Exercise extreme caution whenever relieving fuel system pressure to avoid exposing skin, face and eyes to fuel spray. Please be advised that fuel under pressure may penetrate the skin or any part of the body that it contacts. Always place a shop towel or cloth around the fitting or connection prior to loosening to absorb any excess fuel due to spillage. Ensure that all fuel spillage is quickly removed from engine surfaces. Ensure that all fuel soaked cloths or towels are deposited into a suitable waste container. Always keep a dry chemical (Class B) fire extinguisher near the work area. Do not allow fuel spray or fuel vapors to come into contact with a spark or open flame. Always use a backup wrench when loosening and tightening fuel line connection fittings. This will prevent unnecessary stress and torsion to fuel line piping. Always follow the proper torque specifications. Always replace worn fuel fitting O-rings. Do not substitute fuel hose where fuel pipe is installed. Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information PGM-FI Main Relay This relay is located behind the dashboard's lower cover. It consists of two individual relays. One is energized whenever the ignition is ON , thus supplying battery voltage to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). This relay also supplies voltage to the fuel injectors, and power to the second relay. The second relay is energized for two seconds, when the engine is turned ON , to power the fuel pump. See Figure 1 Fig. Fig. 1: Schematic of the PGM-FI relay Testing If the engine starts and continues to run, the PGM-FI relay is working and does not need to be replaced. Print See Figure 2 Fig. Fig. 2: PGM-FI relay terminal numbers 1. Remove the relay. 2. Apply battery voltage to the number three terminal. 3. Ground the number two terminal. 4. Check for continuity between terminals five and two. 5. If continuity is detected, proceed to the step 7. 6. If there is no continuity, replace the relay. 7. Connect the number four terminal to the positive side of the battery. 8. Ground the number two terminal of the relay. 9. Check for continuity between the number five terminal and the number two terminal of the relay. 10. If there is continuity, the relay checks out "OK". If the fuel pump still does not work, test the harness. 11. If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest. Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Relieving Fuel System Pressure Print CAUTION Be sure that the ignition switch is OFF before relieving the fuel system. Never smoke while working on the fuel system! 1.8L, 3.0L & 3.2L ENGINES See Figure 1 Fig. Fig. 1: Slowly turn the banjo bolt on the fuel filter to relieve the fuel system pressure 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the fuel filler cap. 3. Using a 12mm box-end wrench, loosen the banjo bolt from the top of the fuel filter. Be sure to hold the fuel filter with another wrench. 4. Place a shop towel over the banjo bolt to absorb any fuel that may leak out as the bolt is loosened. 5. Slowly unscrew the banjo bolt one turn. 6. Always replace the washers whenever the bolt is loosened. 7. After the fuel system pressure is relieved, Tighten the service port bolt, install the fuel filler cap, then connect the negative battery cable. 2.2L, 2.3L & 2.5L ENGINES 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the fuel filler cap. 3. Use a box-end wrench to loosen the fuel rail service bolt. See Figure 2 Fig. Fig. 2: Loosening the service bolt from the fuel rail-2.2L engines 4. Place a shop towel over the banjo bolt to absorb any fuel that may leak out as the bolt is loosened. 5. Slowly unscrew the banjo bolt one turn. 6. Always replace the washers whenever the bolt is loosened. 7. After the fuel system pressure is relieved, Tighten the service port bolt, install the fuel filler cap, then connect the negative battery cable. 3.5L ENGINE 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the fuel filler cap. 3. Using a box end wrench, loosen the banjo bolt from the top of the fuel filter. Be sure to hold the fuel filter with another wrench. 4. Place a shop towel over the banjo bolt to absorb any fuel that may leak out as the bolt is loosened. 5. Slowly unscrew the banjo bolt one turn. 6. Always replace the washers whenever the bolt is loosened. 7. After the fuel system pressure is relieved, Tighten the service port bolt, install the fuel filler cap, then connect the negative battery cable. Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Throttle Body REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print See Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4 Fig. Fig. 1: View of typical Acura throttle body Fig. Fig. 2: Disassembled view of the throttle body Fig. Fig. 3: Exploded view of throttle body and fast idle thermo valve Fig. Fig. 4: Periodic cleaning of the throttle body is recommended 1. Remove the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the air duct from the throttle body. 3. If working on a Legend model with traction control, remove the Traction Control Solenoid (TCS) assembly. 4. Remove the wiring harness connector from the throttle body. 5. Label and detach all vacuum hoses from the throttle body. 6. Detach the accelerator cable. 7. Detach the coolant hoses from the throttle body. 8. Remove the mounting nuts and/or bolts. 9. Remove the throttle body gasket. 10. Using a plastic scraper, remove any gasket material from the throttle body and air intake plenum. 11. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Back to Top Chassis Electrical Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Disconnecting the Cables When working on any electrical component on the vehicle, it is always a good idea to disconnect the negative (-) battery cable. This will Print prevent potential damage to many sensitive electrical components such as the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), radio, alternator, etc. Any time you disengage the battery cables, it is recommended that you disconnect the negative (-) battery cable first. This will prevent your accidentally grounding the positive (+) terminal to the body of the vehicle when disconnecting it, thereby preventing damage to the above mentioned components. Before you disconnect the cable(s), first turn the ignition to the OFF position. This will prevent a draw on the battery which could cause arcing (electricity trying to ground itself to the body of a vehicle, just like a spark plug jumping the gap) and, of course, damaging some components such as the alternator diodes. When the battery cable(s) are reconnected (negative cable last), be sure to check that your lights, windshield wipers and other electrically operated safety components are all working correctly. If your vehicle contains an Electronically Tuned Radio (ETR), don't forget to also reset your radio stations. Ditto for the clock. Back to Top Drive Train Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Driven Disc and Pressure Plate REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print The radio may have a coded theft protection circuit. Make sure you have the code before disconnecting the battery, removing the radio fuse, or removing the radio. Integra 1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section. 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 3. Remove the manual transaxle assembly from the vehicle. See Figure 1 Fig. Fig. 1: View of the transaxle, once it is separated from the engine 4. Insert the a suitable clutch alignment shaft with the suitable clutch alignment disc part and handle part. Use a feeler gauge and measure the clearance between the pressure plate spring fingers and the clutch alignment disc. There should be a maximum of 0.02 in. (0.6mm) of clearance for a new pressure plate with 0.03 in. (0.8mm) limit for a used pressure plate. 5. Remove the clutch alignment disc. 6. Install a suitable flywheel holder tool to aid in the removal of the pressure plate and clutch disc. 7. Matchmark the flywheel and pressure plate for easy reassembly. Remove the pressure plate bolts in a criss-cross pattern 2 turns at a time to prevent warping the plate. See Figure 2 Fig. Fig. 2: Loosen the pressure plate bolts in a criss-cross pattern. This will prevent the plate from bending during the removal procedure 8. Remove the pressure plate, then the clutch disc with the alignment shaft See Figures 3, 4 and 5 Fig. Fig. 3: Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc from the flywheel Fig. Fig. 4: Clutch disc and alignment tool removal Fig. Fig. 5: Inspect the clutch disc for signs of uneven wears To install: See Figures 6, 7 and 8 Fig. Fig. 6: Always check the rear main seal for oil leaks that may contaminate the friction surface of the clutch disc. Replace the seal if a leak is detected Fig. Fig. 7: Notice the surface of this flywheel. Surface irregularities such as these are caused by constant overheating of the flywheel surface. While machining the surface may be possible, it is advised that the clutch be replaced Fig. Fig. 8: This is how the clutch alignment tool should appear after it has been inserted into the pilot bearing 9. If the flywheel was removed, align the hole in the flywheel with the crankshaft dowel pin and install the mounting bolt finger-tight. 10. Install the flywheel holder, then tighten the flywheel mounting bolts in a criss-cross pattern in several steps. The mounting bolt final torque should be 76 ft. lbs. (103 Nm). 11. Apply a suitable high temperature grease part to the splines of the clutch disc, then install the clutch disc using the clutch alignment shaft. 12. Install the pressure plate, tighten the mounting bolts to 19 ft. lbs. (25 Nm), in the proper sequence shown in the accompanying figure. See Figure 9 Fig. Fig. 9: Pressure plate bolt tightening sequence-Integra shown 13. Remove the flywheel holding tool and the clutch alignment shaft 14. Insert the clutch alignment shaft with the clutch alignment disc and handle. Use a feeler gauge and measure the clearance between the pressure plate spring fingers and the clutch alignment disc. There should be a maximum of 0.02 in. (0.6mm) of clearance for a new pressure plate with 0.03 in. (0.8mm) limit for a used pressure plate. 15. Install the transaxle assembly. 16. Connect the negative battery cable and enter the radio security code. 2.2L, 2.3L CL 1. Raise and safely support the vehicle. 2. Remove the starter motor. 3. Disconnect the hydraulic coupling for the slave cylinder at the transaxle by sliding the sleeve on the tube towards the slave cylinder and applying a slight pulling force to the tube. 4. Remove the transaxle. 5. Mark the assembled position of the clutch and pressure plate to the flywheel if it is to be reinstalled. The clutch pressure plate is only held in place by the retaining bolts. No dowel pins are used, therefore the pressure plate must be supported when removing the retaining bolts. 6. Loosen the pressure plate bolts evenly until the pressure plate spring pressure is released, then finish removing the bolts while supporting the clutch and pressure plate assembly. See Figures 10, 11 and 12 Fig. Fig. 10: Loosen and remove the clutch and pressure plate bolts evenly, a little at a time ... Fig. Fig. 11: ... then carefully removing the clutch and pressure plate assembly from the flywheel Fig. Fig. 12: Exploded view of the clutch disc, pressure plate and related component mounting 7. Remove the clutch and pressure plate from the vehicle. 8. Inspect the flywheel, slave cylinder and other components for wear or damage. See Figures 13 and 14 Fig. Fig. 13: Check the pressure plate for excessive wear Fig. Fig. 14: Be sure that the flywheel surface is clean, before installing the clutch To install: 9. Clean the pressure plate and flywheel surfaces. 10. Install the clutch disc using an appropriate clutch aligning tool. See Figure 15 Fig. Fig. 15: Insert an alignment tool through the clutch disc to ensure that it is centered after the pressure plate is installed If the clutch disc and pressure plate are being reused, align the marks made during disassembly. 11. Install an appropriate flywheel holding tool to hold the flywheel. See Figures 16 and 17 Fig. Fig. 16: Typical clutch alignment tool, note how the splines match the transaxle's input shaft Fig. Fig. 17: Use the clutch alignment tool to align the clutch disc during assembly 12. Install the pressure plate and start the retaining bolts. See Figure 18 Fig. Fig. 18: The pressure plate-to-flywheel bolt holes should align 13. Tighten the retaining bolts evenly and in sequence to 13-18 ft. lbs. (18-26 Nm). See Figures 19, 20 and 21 Fig. Fig. 19: You may want to use a threadlocking compound on the clutch assembly bolts Fig. Fig. 20: Be sure to use a torque wrench to tighten all bolts Fig. Fig. 21: Tighten the pressure plate bolts gradually and in the sequence shown to ensure correct clutch operation 14. Remove the clutch aligner tool. 15. Reinstall the transaxle. 16. Reconnect the slave cylinder tube coupling by pushing the male coupling into the slave cylinder female coupling. 17. Lower the vehicle. 18. Reconnect the negative battery cable. 19. Bleed the hydraulic clutch system, if required. 20. Check the clutch system for proper operation. Legend 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Raise and support the vehicle. 3. Remove the transaxle from the vehicle, as outlined earlier. 4. Matchmark the flywheel and pressure plate for reassembly. Remove the pressure plate bolts in a criss-cross pattern 2 turns at a time to prevent warping the plate. 5. Inspect the pressure plate and clutch disk for signs of wear. 6. Inspect the flywheel for scoring and wear. Use a dial indicator to make sure it is flat and resurface or replace, as necessary. To install: 7. Make sure the flywheel and the end of the crankshaft are clean before assembly. Tighten the flywheel bolts, in a criss-cross pattern, to 76 ft. lbs. (105 Nm). 8. Apply grease to the splines of the clutch disc, and install the clutch disc using a clutch alignment shaft. 9. Install the release bearing on the pressure plate, then install the pressure plate. When installing the pressure plate, align the mark on the outer edge of the flywheel with the alignment mark on the pressure plate. Failure to align these marks will result in imbalance. 10. Tighten the pressure plate bolts using an alignment shaft to center the friction disc. After centering the disc, tighten the bolts 2 turns at a time, in a criss-cross pattern to avoid warping the diaphragm springs; torque to 19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm). 11. Jack the transaxle into place and make sure the mainshaft is properly aligned with the disc spline and that the aligning pins are in place. 12. Install the transaxle and tighten the mounting bolts to 55 ft. lbs. (75 Nm). 13. Install and connect the slave cylinder and its hydraulic line. Fill the reservoir with fluid. 14. Verify that all wiring harnesses, vacuum lines, and linkages are connected properly. 15. Reconnect the negative battery cable. 16. Check the clutch adjustment and road test the vehicle. Vigor 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the transaxle from the vehicle, as outlined earlier. 3. Remove the slave cylinder with the hydraulic hose still connected. Remove the boot from the clutch case and remove the release fork with the bearing. 4. Matchmark the flywheel and pressure plate for easy reassembly. Remove the pressure plate bolts in a criss-cross pattern 2 turns at a time to prevent warping the plate. 5. Inspect the flywheel for scoring and wear. Use a dial indicator to make sure it is flat and reface or replace, as necessary. To install: 6. Make sure the flywheel and the end of the crankshaft are clean before assembly. Tighten the flywheel bolts, in a criss-cross pattern, to 76 ft. lbs. (103 Nm). 7. Apply grease to the splines of the clutch disc, and install the clutch disc using a clutch alignment shaft. 8. Install the release bearing on the pressure plate, then install the pressure plate. When installing the pressure plate, align the mark on the outer edge of the flywheel with the alignment mark on the pressure plate. Failure to align these marks will result in imbalance. After installing the pressure plate, make sure the release bearing does not come off. 9. Tighten the pressure plate bolts using a pilot shaft to center the friction disc. After centering the disc, tighten the bolts 2 turns at a time, in a crisscross pattern to avoid warping the diaphragm springs; tighten to 19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm). 10. Install the transaxle, make sure the mainshaft is properly aligned with the disc spline and the aligning pins are in place, before tightening the case bolts. ADJUSTMENTS Clutch Pedal Free-Play The clutch is self-adjusting to compensate for wear. 1. Loosen the locknut at the base of the clutch switch. 2. Loosen the locknut at the rear of the pedal pin. 3. Turn the pushrod in or out to obtain the specified amount of pedal play. 4. Tighten the locknut located to the rear of the pedal pin. 5. Turn the clutch switch until it contacts the pedal shaft. 6. Turn the clutch switch one turn farther. 7. Tighten the locknut on the switch. 8. Loosen the locknut on the clutch interlock switch. 9. Measure the clearance between the clutch pedal and the floor board with the clutch pedal depressed. 10. Allow the clutch pedal to rise from the floor until it is 0.59-0.79 inch. (15-20 mm) above the full bottom measurement. 11. Adjust the interlock switch so that the engine will start from this position. 12. Turn the interlock switch three quarters to one turn further. 13. Tighten the locknut to secure the position of the clutch interlock switch. Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Master Cylinder REMOVAL & INSTALLATION WARNING Do not spill brake fluid on any of the vehicles painted surfaces. It will damage the paint! Print 1. Use a suitable siphon or a clean turkey baster to remove the brake fluid from the clutch master cylinder. 2. Disconnect the clutch pipe from the master cylinder. 3. Remove the reservoir hose from the master cylinder reservoir. 4. Pull out the cotter pin on the pedal rod. 5. Pull the pedal pin out of the yoke. 6. Unfasten the retaining nuts, then remove the clutch master cylinder. WARNING Do not spill brake fluid on the clutch master cylinder damper. 7. Installation is the reverse of removal. Use only DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid to refill the clutch hydraulic system. 8. Fill and bleed the clutch system, using a suitable DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid.. Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Slave Cylinder REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print 1. Locate the slave cylinder. 2. Remove the flare fitting and steel line from the slave cylinder assembly. See Figure 1 Fig. Fig. 1: Disconnecting the hydraulic line from the slave cylinder 3. Remove the slave cylinder from the clutch housing by removing the attaching bolts. 4. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure Use only DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid to refill the clutch hydraulic system. 5. Fill and bleed the clutch system, using a suitable DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid.. HYDRAULIC SYSTEM BLEEDING Use only DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid from a clean, sealed container, in the clutch master and slave cylinders. As brake fluid will damage the vehicle's paint, clean up any spills immediately. 1. Fit a flare or box end wrench onto the slave cylinder bleeder screw. 2. Attach a rubber tube to the slave cylinder bleeder screw and suspend it into a clear drain container partially filled with brake fluid. 3. Fill the clutch master cylinder with brake fluid. 4. Open the bleeder screw and press the clutch pedal to the floor. 5. Close the bleeder screw. 6. Release the clutch pedal and recheck the reservoir fluid level. Top off if necessary. 7. Continue the above procedure until no more bubbles appear in the tube. 8. Top off the clutch master cylinder reservoir with brake fluid. Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Understanding the Clutch Print CAUTION The clutch driven disc may contain asbestos, which has been determined to be a cancer causing agent. Never clean clutch surfaces with compressed air! Avoid inhaling any dust from any clutch surface! When cleaning clutch surfaces, use a commercially available brake cleaning fluid. The purpose of the clutch is to disconnect and connect engine power at the transaxle. A vehicle at rest requires a lot of engine torque to get all that weight moving. An internal combustion engine does not develop a high starting torque (unlike steam engines) so it must be allowed to operate without any load until it builds up enough torque to move the vehicle. Torque increases with engine rpm. The clutch allows the engine to build up torque by physically disconnecting the engine from the transaxle, relieving the engine of any load or resistance. The transfer of engine power to the transaxle (the load) must be smooth and gradual; if it weren't, drive line components would wear out or break quickly. This gradual power transfer is made possible by gradually releasing the clutch pedal. The clutch disc and pressure plate are the connecting link between the engine and transaxle. When the clutch pedal is released, the disc and plate contact each other (the clutch is engaged) physically joining the engine and transaxle. When the pedal is pushed inward, the disc and plate separate (the clutch is disengaged) disconnecting the engine from the transaxle. Most clutches utilize a single plate, dry friction disc with a diaphragm-style spring pressure plate. The clutch disc has a splined hub which attaches the disc to the input shaft. The disc has friction material where it contacts the flywheel and pressure plate. Torsion springs on the disc help absorb engine torque pulses. The pressure plate applies pressure to the clutch disc, holding it tight against the surface of the flywheel. The clutch operating mechanism consists of a release bearing, fork and cylinder assembly. The release fork and actuating linkage transfer pedal motion to the release bearing. In the engaged position (pedal released) the diaphragm spring holds the pressure plate against the clutch disc, so engine torque is transmitted to the input shaft. When the clutch pedal is depressed, the release bearing pushes the diaphragm spring center toward the flywheel. The diaphragm spring pivots the fulcrum, relieving the load on the pressure plate. Steel spring straps riveted to the clutch cover lift the pressure plate from the clutch disc, disengaging the engine drive from the transaxle and enabling the gears to be changed. The clutch is operating properly if: 1. It will stall the engine when released with the vehicle held stationary. 2. The shift lever can be moved freely between 1st and reverse gears when the vehicle is stationary and the clutch disengaged. Back to Top Suspension And Steering Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information FRONT SUSPENSION See Figures 1 and 2 Print Fig. Fig. 1: Front Suspension Component Location Integra Fig. Fig. 2: Front Component Location 3.2TL Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Front Hub and Bearings INSPECTION Print The wheel bearing end play can be checked using a dial indicator. Replace the bearings if the end play is greater than 0.002" (0.05mm). REMOVAL & INSTALLATION The following procedures for hub and wheel bearing removal and installation require the use of many special tools and a hydraulic press. Do NOT attempt this procedure without the special tools. The following tools, or their equivalents, are recommended by Acura for removing and replacing wheel bearings: No.07749-0010000: driver No.07HAD-SG00100: driver attachment No.07746-0010500: wheel bearing driver attachment No.07GAF-SD40700: hub assembly base No.07GAF-SE00100: hub assembly tool Integra 1. Raise and safely support the vehicle. 2. Remove the front wheels, then pry the lock tab away and loosen the spindle nut. See Figures 1 through 5 Fig. Fig. 1: Remove the dust cover from the hub Fig. Fig. 2: Use a ratchet and socket to loosen the spindle nut Fig. Fig. 3: Remove the nut from the spindle ... Fig. Fig. 4: ... then remove the washer. Note the notch and its position in the groove on the spindle Fig. Fig. 5: Pull the hub and bearing assembly off the spindle 3. Remove the brake hose mounting bolts. 4. Remove the brake caliper bolts and remove the caliper from the knuckle. Do not allow the caliper to hang by the brake hose, support it with a length of wire. 5. Remove the disc brake rotor. 6. If equipped with ABS, remove the wheel sensor wire bracket, then remove the wheel sensor from the knuckle. Do not detach the wheel speed sensor connector. 7. Remove the lower ball joint. 8. Remove the upper ball joint using a suitable ball joint removal tool. 9. Pull the knuckle outward and remove the halfshaft outboard joint from the knuckle using a plastic hammer, then remove the knuckle. 10. Place the knuckle on a suitable base, take care not to distort the splash shield. Insert a disassembly tool into the hub, then using a press, remove the hub from the knuckle. Hold onto the hub to keep it from falling when pressed clear. 11. Remove the knuckle ring from the rear of the knuckle. 12. Remove the circlip from the knuckle, then remove the splash guard. 13. Place the knuckle on the disassembly base and install a driver to the bearing. Using a press, remove the bearing from the knuckle. 14. Press the wheel bearing inner race from the hub using a suitable hub disassembly tool and a bearing separator. See Figure 6 Fig. Fig. 6: Pressing a sealed wheel bearing out of the hub assembly To install: 15. Remove the old grease from the hub and knuckle and thoroughly dry and wipe clean all components. 16. Press a new wheel bearing into the knuckle with a suitable driver attachment part, and the knuckle supported properly. 17. Install the circlip securely in the knuckle groove. 18. Install the splash guard and tighten the screws to 3.6 ft. lbs. (5 Nm). 19. Place the hub on a support, then position the knuckle on the hub. Use a suitable driver and attachment part to press the knuckle onto the hub. 20. Install the knuckle ring to the rear of the knuckle. 21. Install the knuckle/hub assembly onto the halfshaft. 22. Install the knuckle to the lower control arm and the tie rod end. Tighten the lower ball joint nut to 36-43 ft. lbs. (49-59 Nm) and tighten the tie rod end castle nut to 29-35 ft. lbs. (39-47 Nm). If necessary, further tighten the nuts to align the cotter pin holes, then install new cotter pins. Never align the cotter pin holes by loosening the nuts. WARNING Be careful not to damage the ball joint boots. 23. Install the knuckle to the upper control arm, then tighten the castle nut to 29-35 ft. lbs. (39-47 Nm). If necessary, further tighten the nut in order to align the cotter pin holes, then install new cotter pins. Never align the cotter pin holes by loosening the nuts. 24. Install the wheel sensor and wheel sensor wire bracket onto the knuckle (for cars with ABS only). Be careful not to twist the ABS sensor wires during installation. 25. Clean the brake rotor mating surfaces, then install the disc brake rotor and its retaining screws. Tighten the screws to 7 ft. lbs. (10 Nm). 26. Install the brake caliper, caliper bracket, and mounting bolts. 27. Install the brake hose mounting bolts, tighten the mounting bolts to 7 ft. lbs. (10 Nm). 28. Install a new spindle nut and tighten the nut to 134 ft. lbs. (181 Nm). Stake the shoulder of the nut against the halfshaft. 29. Lower the vehicle and check the front wheel alignment. Road test the vehicle. 2.2CL, 2.3CL and 3.0CL See Figure 7 Fig. Fig. 7: Press the hub/flange out of the bearing assembly-2.2CL and 3.0CL shown 1. Remove the steering knuckle, as outlined earlier in this section. 2. Remove the four bolts securing the hub/rotor assembly to the knuckle. 3. Remove the brake rotor from the hub. Be prepared to catch the hub/flange as it is pressed out of the bearing assembly. 4. Press the hub/flange out of the bearing assembly. 5. Press the inner race off of the hub/flange. To install: 6. Press a new wheel bearing onto the hub/flange. 7. Install the brake rotor on the hub. Tighten the bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). 8. Install the hub/rotor assembly on the knuckle. Tighten the four bolts to 33 ft. lbs. (44 Nm). 9. Install the knuckle assembly. 2.5TL 1. Pry up the lock tab and loosen the spindle nut. Slightly loosen the lug nuts. 2. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Remove the front wheel and spindle nut. 3. Remove the brake caliper mounting bolts and remove the caliper from the knuckle. Hang the caliper out of the way with a length of wire. 4. Remove the ABS speed sensor from the knuckle. 5. Disconnect the tie rod end from the knuckle using a ball joint remover. Be careful not to damage the joint boot. 6. Remove the cotter pin and castle nut from the lower arm ball joint. Separate the lower control arm from the knuckle using a ball joint remover. 7. Remove the cotter pin and castle nut. Separate the upper arm from the knuckle using the ball joint remover. 8. Remove the knuckle and hub by sliding the assembly off of the halfshaft. Tap the end of the halfshaft with a plastic mallet to release it from the knuckle. 9. To remove the hub and rotor assembly from the knuckle, remove the four self-locking bolts from the back of the knuckle. Remove the four bolts from the hub to separate it from the brake disc. 10. The bearing can be pressed off the hub with a hydraulic press. The inner race will stay on the hub and can be removed with a bearing puller. Any time the hub and bearing are separated, the wheel bearing must be replaced with a new one. To install: 11. Clean all the parts and examine them for wear. A worn or damaged hub will cause premature bearing failure and should be replaced. When pressing on a new bearing, be sure to press only on the inner race or the bearing will be damaged. 12. Install the brake disc and tighten the bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm). 13. Install the hub assembly and tighten the self-locking bolts to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm). Be sure that all the hub bolts are properly tightened to avoid warpage of the brake disc. 14. Install the knuckle and hub assembly onto the halfshaft. 15. Install the knuckle on the tie rod, and the upper and lower control arms. Tighten the lower ball joint nut to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm) and tighten as required to install a new cotter pin. 16. Tighten the upper ball joint nut to 32 ft. lbs. (44 Nm) and tighten as required to install a new cotter pin. Tighten the tie rod end to 36 ft. lbs. (50 Nm) and tighten as required to install a new cotter pin. Install the knuckle protector. 17. Install the speed sensor, sensor wire, and mounting bolts. Be careful to avoid twisting the wires. 18. Install the brake caliper, brake hoses, and mounting bolts. 19. With the wheel installed and the vehicle on the ground, tighten the spindle nut to 180 ft. lbs. (243 Nm) and stake it in place. Tighten the wheel nuts to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm). 3.2TL, 3.5RL, Legend and Vigor 1. Pry the lock tab away from the spindle and loosen the nut. Slightly loosen the lug nuts. 2. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Remove the front wheel and spindle nut. 3. Remove the wheel sensor from the knuckle, but do not disconnect it. 4. Remove the caliper mounting bolts. Hang the caliper out of the way with a piece of wire. 5. Remove the brake rotor retaining screws. Screw both 12mm bolts into the disc brake removal holes and turn the bolts to press the rotor from the hub. Only turn each bolt 2 turns at a time to prevent cocking the disc. 6. Remove the tie rod from the knuckle using a tie rod end removal tool. Use care not to damage the ball joint seals. 7. Remove the cotter pin from the lower arm ball joint and remove the castle nut. The lower ball joints cannot be separated from the steering knuckle 8. Remove the lower control arm from the knuckle using the ball joint removal tool. 9. Remove the cotter pin from the upper arm ball joint and remove the castle nut. 10. Remove the upper arm from the knuckle using the ball joint remover. 11. Remove the knuckle and hub by sliding the assembly off of the halfshaft. Be sure to clean any dirt or grease off of the ball joints. 12. The hub can be removed with a slide hammer. Clamp the knuckle in a vise and secure the slide hammer to the wheel studs. 13. Remove the splash guard and snaprings. 14. Support the knuckle and press the bearing out towards the wheel side. 15. If the inner bearing race stayed on the hub, use a puller to remove it. To install: 16. Clean all parts and examine for wear and damage. 17. When pressing in a new bearing, install the inner snapring first and press the bearing in from the wheel side. Be sure to press only on the outer race or the bearing will be damaged. 18. Install the outer snapring and the splash guard. 19. Properly support the knuckle and press the hub into the bearing. Do not press on the wheel studs or they will press out of the hub. Support the knuckle by the inner race or the bearing will be damaged. Be sure to lubricate the bearings. 20. Install the knuckle/hub/bearing assembly onto the halfshaft and reassemble the knuckle to the upper and lower control arms. 21. Tighten the lower ball joint nut to 51-58 ft. lbs. (70-80 Nm) and tighten further, if necessary, to install a new cotter pin. 22. Tighten the upper ball joint nut to 29-35 ft. lbs. (40-48 Nm) and tighten further, if necessary, to install a new cotter pin. Tighten the tie rod end to 36-43 ft. lbs. (50-60 Nm) and tighten further, if necessary, to install a new cotter pin. 23. Install the disc brake rotor, caliper, mounting bolts, and brackets. Reconnect the wheel sensor bracket to the knuckle. 24. With the wheel installed and all 4 wheels on the ground. Tighten the spindle nut to specifications, then stake the nut in place. Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Lower Ball Joint INSPECTION Print Check ball joint play as follows: 1. Raise and safely support the vehicle. 2. Clamp a dial indicator onto the lower control arm and place the indicator tip on the knuckle, near the ball joint. 3. Place a prybar between the lower control arm and the knuckle. 4. Apply pressure to the bar. 5. Replace the lower control arm if the play exceeds 0.5mm. Boot replacement Integra 1. Raise and support the vehicle safely. Remove the front wheel assemblies. 2. Remove the steering knuckle. 3. Remove the boot by prying off the snapring. Remove the 40mm clip. Check the boot for deterioration and damage, replace if necessary. To install: 4. Place the ball joint in position by hand. Install the ball joint into the tool and press in the new ball joint in the vise. 5. After installing the boot, check the ball joint pin tapered section for grease contamination and wipe it if necessary. 6. Install the 40mm circlip. Adjust the special tool with the adjusting bolt until the end of the tool aligns with the groove on the boot. Slide the clip over the tool and into position. 7. Install the knuckle. 8. Check the front wheel alignment and adjust if necessary. REMOVAL & INSTALLATIONIntegra, 2.2CL, 2.3CL, 2.5TL and 3.0CL The lower ball joint is pressed into the steering knuckle and cannot be removed. 1. Pry up the lock tab and loosen the spindle nut. Slightly loosen the lug nuts. 2. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Remove the front wheel and spindle nut. 3. Remove the brake caliper mounting bolts and remove the caliper from the knuckle. Hang the caliper out of the way with a length of wire. 4. Remove the ABS speed sensor from the knuckle. 5. Disconnect the tie rod end from the knuckle using a ball joint remover. Be careful not to damage the joint boot. 6. Remove the cotter pin and castle nut from the lower arm ball joint. Separate the lower control arm from the knuckle. 7. Remove the cotter pin and castle nut. Separate the upper arm from the knuckle using the ball joint remover. 8. Remove the knuckle and hub by sliding the assembly off of the halfshaft. Tap the end of the halfshaft with a plastic mallet to release it from the knuckle. 9. To remove the hub and rotor assembly from the knuckle, remove the four self-locking bolts from the back of the knuckle. 10. Remove the four bolts from the hub to separate it from the brake disc. 11. The bearing can be pressed off the hub with a hydraulic press. The inner race will stay on the hub and can be removed with a bearing puller. Any time the hub and bearing are separated, the wheel bearing must be replaced with a new one. To install: 12. Clean all the parts and examine them for wear. A worn or damaged hub will cause premature bearing failure and should be replaced. When pressing on a new bearing, be sure to press only on the inner race or the bearing will be damaged. 13. Install the brake disc and tighten the bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm). 14. Install the hub assembly and tighten the self-locking bolts to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm). Be sure that all the hub bolts are properly tightened to avoid warpage of the brake disc. 15. Install the knuckle and hub assembly onto the halfshaft. 16. Install the knuckle on the tie rod, and the upper and lower control arms. Tighten the lower ball joint nut to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm), then tighten further, as required, to install a new cotter pin. 17. Tighten the upper ball joint nut to 32 ft. lbs. (44 Nm), then tighten further, as required to install a new cotter pin. Tighten the tie rod end to 36 ft. lbs. (50 Nm), then tighten further, as required to install a new cotter pin. Install the knuckle protector. 18. Install the speed sensor, sensor wire, and mounting bolts. Be careful to avoid twisting the wires. 19. Install the brake caliper, brake hoses, and mounting bolts. 20. With the wheel installed and the vehicle on the ground, tighten the spindle nut to 180 ft. lbs. (243 Nm) and stake it in place. Tighten the lug nuts to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm). Legend & Vigor 1. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Remove the front wheels. 2. Remove the lower damper fork bolt. 3. Disconnect the stabilizer bar from the arm. 4. Remove the lower arm ball joint-to-steering knuckle nut. 5. Using a ball joint removal tool, separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle. 6. Disconnect the radius rod from the lower control arm and remove the arm. To install: 7. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Tighten the radius rod-to-control arm bolts to 76 ft. lbs. (105 Nm) and the chassis bolt to 39 ft. lbs. (55 Nm). 8. On Legend, tighten the ball joint nut to 54 ft. lbs. (75 Nm), then tighten further, as required to insert a new cotter pin. 9. On Vigor, tighten the lower ball joint nut to 36 ft. lbs. (50 Nm), then tighten further, as required to install a new cotter pin. Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Lower Control Arm REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print 1. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Remove the front wheels. 2. Remove the lower damper fork bolt. See Figure 1 Fig. Fig. 1: The lower damper fork bolt must be removed before the lower control arm can come off 3. Disconnect the stabilizer bar from the arm. 4. Remove the lower arm ball joint-to-steering knuckle nut. Using a ball joint removal tool, separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle. 5. Remove the lower control arm to sub-frame mounting/pivoting bolts. 6. Disconnect the radius rod from the lower control arm and remove the arm. To install: 7. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Tighten the radius rod-to-control arm bolts to 76 ft. lbs. (105 Nm) and the chassis bolt to 39 ft. lbs. (55 Nm). 8. On Vigor, tighten the lower ball joint nut to 36 ft. lbs. (50 Nm), then tighten further, as required, to install a new cotter pin. Control Arm Bushing ReplacementSee Figures 2 and 3 Fig. Fig. 2: This torn lower control arm bushing can cause poor handling and throw the alignment off Fig. Fig. 3: This press is being used to push the bushing out of a lower control arm This procedure will require the use of a press. If a press is not available, you may want to have a local shop perform this task. 1. Position the lower control arm on the press with the machined surfaces facing down. 2. Adjust the bushing driver so that it aligns itself to the inner diameter of the bushing hole, then tighten the socket bolt. 3. Position the bushing driver against the bushing. 4. Use the press as shown to remove the bushing. To install: 5. Align the lower control arm on the press with the machined surface facing down. 6. Align the bushing driver so that it matches the inner diameter of the bushing hole. 7. Tighten the socket bolt securely. 8. Position the bushing driver along the outer sleeve of the bushing. 9. Push the bushing into the arm using a bushing driver. Be sure the edge of the bushing reached the plate. Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Steering Knuckle REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Integra, CL, RL and TL 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the center cap or wheel cover from the rim. 3. Break loose the wheel hub retaining nut. 4. Raise and safely support the vehicle. 5. Remove the wheel and tire assembly. 6. Remove the disc brake caliper and rotor. Do not disconnect the brake line from the caliper. 7. Support the disc brake caliper with safety wire. Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose. 8. Remove the speed sensor from the hub assembly. 9. Remove the outer tie rod end cotter pin and remove the castellated nut. Discard the cotter pin. 10. Separate the outer tie rod end from the steering knuckle using an appropriate tie rod end remover. 11. Remove the wheel hub retaining nut. 12. Separate the halfshaft from the wheel hub. 13. Once removed, support the end of the halfshaft. 14. Remove the ball joint from the lower control arm. 15. Remove the upper ball joint from the steering knuckle. 16. Remove the steering knuckle from the vehicle. Print 17. Place the steering knuckle assembly onto a suitable workbench. To install: 18. Carefully align the splines of the outer CV-joint with the splines in the hub. 19. Position the steering knuckle to the lower ball joint stud. 20. Position the steering knuckle to the lower strut tube. 21. Install a new steering knuckle to lower ball joint pinch bolt. 22. Install a new steering knuckle to strut pinch bolt. 23. Reinstall the anti-lock brake sensor and retaining bolt. 24. Reinstall the disc brake rotor and caliper assembly. 25. Reinstall a new wheel hub retaining nut. WARNING Do not use an impact gun to tighten the wheel hub retaining nut or damage to the wheel bearing may result. 26. Attach the tie rod end to the steering knuckle. Install the castellated nut. 27. Install a new cotter pin. 28. Reinstall the wheel and tire assembly. 29. Connect the negative battery cable. 30. Pump the brake pedal several times to position the disc brake pads before attempting to move the vehicle. 31. Road test the vehicle and check for proper operation. Legend 1. Pry the lock tab away from the spindle and loosen the 36mm nut. Slightly loosen the lug nuts. 2. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Remove the front wheel and spindle nut. 3. Remove the bolts retaining the brake caliper and the caliper from the knuckle. Do not allow the caliper to hang by the brake hose, support it with a length of wire. 4. Remove the disc brake rotor retaining screws if equipped. Screw both 8 x 1.25 x 12mm bolts into the disc brake removal holes and turn the bolts to press the rotor from the hub. Only turn each bolt 2 turns at a time to prevent cocking the disc excessively. 5. Remove the tie rod from the knuckle using a tie rod end removal tool. Use care not to damage the ball joint seals. 6. Remove the cotter pin from the lower arm ball joint and the castle nut. Discard the cotter pin. 7. Remove the lower control arm from the knuckle using the ball joint removal tool. 8. Remove the cotter pin from the upper arm ball joint and the castle nut. 9. Remove the upper arm from the knuckle using the ball joint removal tool. 10. Remove the knuckle and hub by sliding the assembly off of the halfshaft. Any time the hub is removed, the wheel bearing must be replaced with a new one. 11. On 1994 Legend, the hub can be removed with a slide hammer. Clamp the knuckle in a vise and secure the slide hammer to the wheel studs. 12. Remove the splash guard and snaprings. 13. Support the knuckle and press the bearing out towards the wheel side. 14. If the inner bearing race stayed on the hub, use a puller to remove it. To install: 15. Clean all parts and examine for wear. A worn or damaged hub will cause premature bearing failure and should be replaced. 16. When pressing in a new bearing, install the inner snapring first and press the bearing in from the wheel side. Be sure to press only on the outer race or the bearing will be damaged. 17. Install the outer snapring and the splash guard. 18. Properly support the knuckle and press the hub into the bearing. Do not press on the wheel studs or they will press out of the hub. Be sure to support the knuckle by the inner race or the bearing will be damaged. 19. Install the knuckle in the reverse order of removal. Tighten the lower ball joint nut to 54 ft. lbs. (75 Nm) and tighten further as required to install a new cotter pin. 20. Tighten the upper ball joint nut to 32 ft. lbs. (44 Nm) and tighten further as required to install a new cotter pin. Tighten the tie rod end to 36 ft. lbs. (50 Nm) and tighten further, as required, to install a new cotter pin. 21. With the wheel installed and all 4 wheels on the ground, torque the spindle nut to 206 ft. lbs. (285 Nm) and stake it in place. Vigor The front wheel bearing and hub can be removed as an assembly without removing the steering knuckle. 1. Pry the lock tab away from the spindle and loosen the 36mm nut. Slightly loosen the lug nuts. 2. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Remove the front wheel and spindle nut. 3. Remove the bolts retaining the brake caliper and remove the caliper from the knuckle. Do not allow the caliper to hang by the brake hose, support it with a length of wire. 4. Remove the ABS speed sensor from the knuckle. 5. Remove the tie rod from the knuckle using a properly sized ball joint pressing tool. Use care not to damage the joint seals. 6. Remove the cotter pin from the lower arm ball joint and the castle nut. Remove the lower control arm from the knuckle using the ball joint pressing tool. 7. Remove the cotter pin from the upper arm ball joint and the castle nut. Remove the upper arm from the knuckle using the ball joint pressing tool. 8. Remove the knuckle and hub by sliding the assembly off of the halfshaft. 9. To remove the hub from the knuckle, remove the 4 self-locking bolts from the back of the knuckle. Remove the 4 bolts from the hub to remove the brake disc. Any time the hub and bearing are separated, the wheel bearing must be replaced with a new one. 10. The bearing can be pressed off the hub with a hydraulic press. The inner race of the outer row will stay on the hub and can be removed with a bearing puller. To install: 11. Clean all parts and examine for wear. A worn or damaged hub will cause premature bearing failure and should be replaced. 12. When pressing on a new bearing, be sure to press only on the inner race or the bearing will be damaged. 13. Install the brake disc and torque the bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm). Do not over torque or the disc will warp. 14. Make sure the splash guard is installed on the knuckle. Install the hub assembly and torque the self-locking bolts to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm). Do not over torque or the hub will be distorted. 15. Install the knuckle in the reverse order of removal. Torque the lower ball joint nut to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm) and tighten as required to install a new cotter pin. 16. Torque the upper ball joint nut to 32 ft. lbs. (44 Nm) and tighten as required to install a new cotter pin. Torque the tie rod end to 36 ft. lbs. (50 Nm) and tighten as required to install a new cotter pin. 17. With the wheel installed and all 4 wheels on the ground, torque the spindle nut to 180 ft. lbs. (243 Nm) and stake it in place. Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Strut Assembly REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print See Figures 1, 2 and 3 Fig. Fig. 1: Once the bottom fork bolt is removed, pull the lower control arm down to move it out of the way. This will ease strut removal Fig. Fig. 2: Pull the strut down to remove it, once the mounting nuts have been loosened Fig. Fig. 3: Remove the fork from the bottom of the strut by loosening the pinch bolt. Use a plastic mallet to lightly tap on the fork to remove it WARNING The strut contains pressurized nitrogen gas. Drill a 5/64" (2.0mm) hole at the base of the strut, before disposing of it. Always wear eye protection when drilling. 1. Raise and safely support the vehicle, then remove the front wheels. 2. Support the lower suspension arm with a jack. 3. Disconnect the brake hose from the strut. 4. Remove the lower strut mounting bolt(s). If the strut (damper) is mounted in a fork, matchmark the damper and the fork before removal. See Figure 4 Fig. Fig. 4: Matchmark the position of the damper in the fork before removal-Legend shown 5. Remove the upper strut assembly mounting nuts, then remove the strut assembly from the vehicle.. To install: 6. Loosely install the upper mount nuts. See Figure 5 Fig. Fig. 5: Front suspension including tightening specifications-2.5TL shown, other vehicles are similar 7. Install the strut lower mounting bolt(s). Be sure to align the matchmark. All suspension nuts and bolts should be tightened with the vehicle on the ground, or with a floor jack supporting the vehicle's weight. 8. Tighten the pinch bolt to the following specifications: 2.2CL, 2.3CL, 2.5TL, 3.0CL : 47 ft. lbs. (65 Nm) 3.5RL, Integra and Vigor: 32 ft. lbs. (43 Nm) 3.2TL and Legend: 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm) 9. Tighten the lower fork bolt as follows: 2.2CL, 2.3CL, 2.5TL, 3.0CL, Legend and Vigor : 47 ft. lbs. (65 Nm) 3.2TL, 3.5RL and Integra: 51 ft. lbs. (69 Nm) 10. Tighten the upper nuts on all models to 28 ft. lbs. (38 Nm). 11. Connect the brake hose bracket to the shock absorber. 12. Install the front wheels and lower the vehicle. 13. Check the alignment and test drive the vehicle. OVERHAUL See Figure 6 Fig. Fig. 6: View of some of the front suspension components 1. Raise and support the vehicle, then remove the front wheels. 2. Remove the strut (damper) from the vehicle. See Figure 7 Fig. Fig. 7: Remove the strut from the vehicle 3. Compress the coil spring with a suitable spring compressor. See Figure 8 Fig. Fig. 8: Compressing the coil spring with a commercially available spring compressor 4. Remove the locking nut from the top of the shock absorber, and remove the coil spring. See Figures 9, 10 and 11 Fig. Fig. 9: To remove the spring once it has been compressed, unscrew the nut at the top of the strut. Fig. Fig. 10: Exploded view of the rear shock absorber (damper)-2.5TL shown, other vehicles are similar Fig. Fig. 11: Compress the coil spring until the spring moves away from the seat and use a hex wrench to hold the piston rod while removing the nut To install: Use new self-locking nuts and bolts when assembling the strut. 5. Install the compressed coil spring on the shock absorber. 6. Assemble the upper spring seat/bearing and related components. 7. Install the mounting washer, and loosely install a new self-locking nut. 8. Hold the shock absorber piston rod with a hex wrench and tighten the self-locking nut. Tighten the self-locking nut to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm). All suspension nuts and bolts should be tightened with the vehicle on the ground. 9. Install the strut in the vehicle, as outlined earlier in this section. 10. Have the front alignment checked and adjusted, if necessary. Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Sway Bar REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Raise and safely support the vehicle to gain access to the sway bar. 3. Unfasten the left and right sway bar link retaining nuts. 4. Remove the sway bar links from the sway bar and set aside. 5. Unfasten the sway bar insulator bracket-to-sub-frame bolts. It may be necessary to lower the sub-frame to access the sway bar 6. Remove the sway bar from the vehicle. To install: 7. Position the sway bar into the vehicle and secure with the mounting bracket-to-sub-frame bolts. 8. Attach the sway bar links to each side of the sway bar. 9. Reinstall the retaining nuts. 10. Carefully lower the vehicle. 11. Connect the negative battery cable. 12. Road test the vehicle and check for proper operation. Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Upper Ball Joint Inspection Print Anytime the ball joint is separated from the knuckle, it should be checked for looseness. If it is loose or can be twisted in the socket by hand, the ball joint must be replaced. 1. Raise and safely support the vehicle with jackstands under the left and right lower control arms, as far outboard and nearest to the ball joint as possible. 2. Make sure the vehicle is stable and does not rock on the stands. 3. Position a dial indicator against the wheel rim. 4. Grasp the front tire and push in on the bottom while pulling out at the top. Read the dial indicator, then reverse the push-pull procedure. 5. Replace the lower control arm if the play exceeds 0.5mm. Boot replacement Integra 1. Raise and support the vehicle safely. Remove the front wheel assemblies. 2. Remove the steering knuckle. 3. Remove the boot by prying off the snapring. Remove the 40mm clip. Check the boot for deterioration and damage, replace if necessary. To install: 4. Place the ball joint in position by hand. Install the ball joint into the tool and press in the new ball joint in the vise. WARNING After installing the boot, check the ball joint pin tapered section for grease contamination and wipe it if necessary. 5. Install the 40mm circlip. Adjust the special tool with the adjusting bolt until the end of the tool aligns with the groove on the boot. Slide the clip over the tool and into position. 6. Install the knuckle. 7. Have the front wheel alignment checked and adjusted if necessary. REMOVAL & INSTALLATION The upper ball joint cannot be removed from the control arm. If the ball joint is damaged, the upper arm assembly must be replaced. 1. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Remove the front wheel. See Figures 1 and 2 Fig. Fig. 1: Separating the upper ball joint Fig. Fig. 2: A common upper control arm and ball joint assembly 2. If equipped, remove the ball joint nut cover. Remove the cotter pin and the nut connecting the upper control arm to the steering knuckle. 3. Support the lower control arm assembly with a floor jack. 4. Using a ball joint removal tool, separate the upper control arm from the steering knuckle. 5. Remove the upper control arm nuts, washers and the upper control arm from the vehicle. To install: 6. Replace all self-locking nuts upon installation. Clean off any dirt, oil or grease off of the threads of the fasteners. Do not tighten any nuts on any rubber mounts or bushings until the vehicle is lowered onto the ground. 7. Install the upper control arm and mounting bolts to the chassis. The upper control arms are not interchangeable. 8. Raise the steering knuckle up with a floor jack, just enough to install the upper control arm ball joint into the steering knuckle. Tighten the ball joint nut to 29-35 ft. lbs. (39-47 Nm). 9. Tighten the castle nut enough to install a new cotter pin. If removed, install the ball joint nut cover. 10. Install the front wheels, lower the vehicle, and tighten the nuts connecting the upper control arm to the chassis to 47 ft. lbs. (65 Nm). 11. Check the wheel alignment and road test the vehicle. Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Upper Control Arm INSPECTION 1. Raise and support the front end of the vehicle. Remove the front wheels. 2. Check for play in the upper control arm by moving the upper end of the steering knuckle. 3. If there is any play, replace the bushings in the upper control arm after removing the upper control arm. REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Remove the front wheel. 2. Remove the cotter pin and the upper control arm-to-steering knuckle nut. 3. Using a suitable ball joint removal tool, separate the upper control arm from the steering knuckle. 4. Remove the upper control arm-to-chassis nuts, washers and the upper control arm from the vehicle. 5. To remove the bushings, remove the anchor bolts from the control arm and press the bushings out of the housing. To install: Print 6. If removed, press new bushings into the housing. Install the anchor bolts and torque the nuts to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm). 7. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedures. Tighten the upper control arm-to-chassis nuts to 47 ft. lbs. (65 Nm) and the upper control arm ball joint-to-steering knuckle nut to 32 ft. lbs. (42 Nm). Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Wheel Alignment If the tires are worn unevenly, if the vehicle is not stable on the highway or if the handling seems poor, the wheel alignment should be Print checked. If an alignment problem is suspected, first check for improper tire inflation and other possible causes. These can be worn suspension or steering components, accident damage or even unmatched tires. If any worn or damaged components are found, they must be replaced before the wheels can be properly aligned. Wheel alignment requires very expensive equipment and involves minute adjustments which must be accurate; it should only be performed by a trained technician. Take your vehicle to a properly equipped shop. Following is a description of the alignment angles which are adjustable on most vehicles and how they affect vehicle handling. Although these angles can apply to both the front and rear wheels, usually only the front suspension is adjustable. CASTER Looking at a vehicle from the side, caster angle describes the steering axis rather than a wheel angle. The steering knuckle is attached to the axle yoke through ball joints or king pins. The wheel pivots around the line between these points to steer the vehicle. When the upper point is tilted back, this is described as positive caster. Having a positive caster tends to make the wheels self-centering, increasing directional stability. Excessive positive caster makes the wheels hard to steer, while an uneven caster will cause a pull to one side. Overloading the vehicle or sagging rear springs will affect caster, as will raising the rear of the vehicle. If the rear of the vehicle is lower than normal, the caster becomes more positive. See Figure 1 Fig. Fig. 1: Caster affects straight-line stability. Caster wheels used on shopping carts, for example, employ positive caster CAMBER Looking from the front of the vehicle, camber is the inward or outward tilt of the top of wheels. When the tops of the wheels are tilted in, this is negative camber; if they are tilted out, it is positive. In a turn, a slight amount of negative camber helps maximize contact of the tire with the road. However, too much negative camber compromises straight-line stability, increases bump steer and torque steer. See Figure 2 Fig. Fig. 2: Camber influences tire contact with the road TOE Looking down at the wheels from above the vehicle, toe angle is the distance between the front of the wheels relative to the distance between the back of the wheels. If the wheels are closer at the front, they are said to be toed-in or to have negative toe. A small amount of negative toe enhances directional stability and provides a smoother ride on the highway. See Figure 3 Fig. Fig. 3: With toe-in, the distance between the wheels is closer at the front than at the rear Back to Top Brakes Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Brake Caliper REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print Front See Figures 1, 2 and 3 Fig. Fig. 1: Never let the caliper hang by the brake hose. Always suspend if with a piece of wire so there is no tension on the hose Fig. Fig. 2: Use a wrench to loosen the caliper mounting bracket bolts Fig. Fig. 3: Once the bolts have been removed, lift the caliper mounting away from the brake rotor CAUTION Older brake pads or shoes may contain asbestos, which has been determined to be cancer causing agent. Never clean the brake surface with compressed air! Avoid inhaling any dust from any brake surface! When cleaning brake surfaces, use a commercially available brake cleaning fluid. Do not allow the master cylinder reservoir to empty. An empty reservoir will allow air to enter the brake system and complete system bleeding will be required. 1. Use a siphon or clean turkey baster to remove about half of the brake fluid from the master cylinder. 2. Raise and safely support the vehicle, then remove the tire and wheel assembly. 3. Unfasten the caliper mounting bolts, then remove the caliper. 4. Remove the brake pads and shims. 5. If the caliper is to be completely removed from the vehicle for replacement or overhaul, remove the brake hose attaching bolt, then disconnect the brake hose from the caliper and plug the hose to prevent fluid contamination or loss. 6. Remove the caliper mounting bracket bolts and lift the caliper off of the support bracket. 7. Remove the caliper and mounting bracket from the vehicle. If the caliper is only removed for access to other components or for pad replacement, support the caliper with the brake hose attached, so that there is no strain on the brake hose. To install: 8. Completely retract the piston into the caliper using a large C-clamp or other suitable tool. 9. Clean and lubricate both steering knuckle abutments or support brackets with a coating of multi-purpose grease. 10. Position the caliper and brake pad assembly over the brake rotor. Be sure to properly install the caliper assembly into the abutments of the steering knuckle or support bracket. Be sure the caliper guide pin bolts, rubber bushings and sleeves are clear of the steering knuckle bosses. 11. Fill the master cylinder with fresh brake fluid and, if the brake hose was removed, bleed the brake system. 12. Install the wheel and tire assembly. 13. Carefully lower the vehicle, then tighten the lug nuts to the proper specifications. 14. Depress the brake pedal 3-4 times to seat the brake linings and to restore pressure in the system. CAUTION Do not move the vehicle until a firm pedal is obtained. 15. Road test the vehicle and check for proper brake operation. Rear See Figure 4 Fig. Fig. 4: Pull the brake caliper away from the mount CAUTION Never use an air hose to blow the brake dust out of a caliper. Always use an approved brake cleaning fluid. Do not allow the master cylinder reservoir to empty. An empty reservoir will allow air to enter the brake system and complete system bleeding will be required. See Figure 5 Fig. Fig. 5: Exploded view of a typical Acura rear brake caliper 1. Use a siphon or clean turkey baster to remove about half of the brake fluid from the master cylinder. 2. Raise and support the vehicle properly. If you are only lifting the rear of the vehicle, chock the front wheels. 3. Remove the caliper shield mounting bolts. 4. Remove the caliper shield. 5. Unfasten the caliper mounting bolts, then remove the caliper from the bracket. 6. Remove the brake pads and shims. 7. If the caliper is to be completely removed from the vehicle for replacement or overhaul, remove the brake hose attaching bolt, then disconnect the brake hose from the caliper and plug the hose to prevent fluid contamination or loss. 8. Remove the caliper mounting bracket bolts and lift the caliper off of the support bracket. 9. Remove the caliper and mounting bracket from the vehicle. If the caliper is only removed for access to other components, support the caliper, with the brake hose attached, so that there is no strain on the brake hose. To install: 10. Use a commercially available locknut wrench, or equivalent tool, to turn the caliper piston clockwise into position in the cylinder, then align the cutout in the piston with the tab on the inner pad by turning the piston back. 11. Position the caliper and brake pad assembly over the brake rotor. Be sure to properly install the caliper assembly into the abutments of the steering knuckle or support bracket. Be sure the caliper guide pin bolts, rubber bushings and sleeves are clear of the steering knuckle bosses. 12. Fill the master cylinder with fresh brake fluid and, if the brake hose was removed, bleed the brake system. 13. Install the wheel and tire assembly. 14. Carefully lower the vehicle. Tighten the lug nuts to the proper specifications. 15. Depress the brake pedal 3-4 times to seat the brake linings and to restore pressure in the system. CAUTION Do not move the vehicle until a firm pedal is obtained. 16. Road test the vehicle and check for proper operation. OVERHAUL Some vehicles may be equipped dual piston calipers. The procedure to overhaul the caliper is essentially the same with the exception of multiple pistons, O-rings and dust boots. 1. Remove the caliper from the vehicle and place on a clean workbench. CAUTION NEVER place your fingers in front of the pistons in an attempt to catch or protect the pistons when applying compressed air. This could result in personal injury! Depending upon the vehicle, there are two different ways to remove the piston from the caliper. Refer to the brake pad replacement procedure to make sure you have the correct procedure for your vehicle. 2. The first method is as follows: A. Stuff a shop towel or a block of wood into the caliper to catch the piston. B. Remove the caliper piston using compressed air applied into the caliper inlet hole. Inspect the piston for scoring, nicks, corrosion and/or worn or damaged chrome plating. The piston must be replaced if any of these conditions are found. See Figures 6 and 7 Fig. Fig. 6: For some types of calipers, use compressed air to drive the piston out of the caliper, but make sure to keep your fingers clear Fig. Fig. 7: Withdraw the piston from the caliper bore 3. For the second method, you must rotate the piston to retract it from the caliper. 4. If equipped, remove the anti-rattle clip. See Figure 8 Fig. Fig. 8: On some vehicles, you must remove the anti-rattle clip 5. Use a prytool to remove the caliper boot, being careful not to scratch the housing bore. See Figures 9 and 10 Fig. Fig. 9: Use a prytool to carefully pry around the edge of the boot ... Fig. Fig. 10: ... then remove the boot from the caliper housing, taking care not to score or damage the bore 6. Remove the piston seals from the groove in the caliper bore. See Figure 11 Fig. Fig. 11: Use extreme caution when removing the piston seal; DO NOT scratch the caliper bore 7. Carefully loosen the brake bleeder valve cap and valve from the caliper housing. 8. Inspect the caliper bores, pistons and mounting threads for scoring or excessive wear. 9. Use crocus cloth to polish out light corrosion from the piston and bore. 10. Clean all parts with denatured alcohol and dry with compressed air. To install: 11. Lubricate and install the bleeder valve and cap. 12. Install the new seals into the caliper bore grooves, making sure they are not twisted. 13. Lubricate the piston bore. 14. Install the pistons and boots into the bores of the calipers and push to the bottom of the bores. 15. Use a suitable driving tool to seat the boots in the housing. See Figure 12 Fig. Fig. 12: Use the proper size driving tool and a mallet to properly seal the boots in the caliper housing 16. Install the caliper in the vehicle. 17. Install the wheel and tire assembly, then carefully lower the vehicle. 18. Properly bleed the brake system. See Figure 13 Fig. Fig. 13: There are tools, such as this Mighty-Vac, available to assist in proper brake system bleeding Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Brake Disc (Rotor) REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print See Figures 1, 2 and 3 Fig. Fig. 1: The use of a hand impact driver may be necessary to remove the brake rotor retaining screws Fig. Fig. 2: Close up of the brake rotor retaining screws Fig. Fig. 3: Remove the brake rotor by pulling it over the studs CAUTION Older brake pads or shoes may contain asbestos, which has been determined to be cancer causing agent. Never clean the brake surface with compressed air! Avoid inhaling any dust from any brake surface! When cleaning brake surfaces, use a commercially available brake cleaning fluid. 1. Use a siphon or clean turkey baster to remove about half of the brake fluid from the master cylinder. 2. Raise and safely support the vehicle and remove the tire/wheel assembly. 3. Remove the caliper guide pin or mounting bolts. 4. Lift the caliper assembly away from the brake rotor. 5. Use a suitable piece of wire to suspend the caliper assembly from the upper control arm. This will prevent the weight of the caliper from being supported by the brake flex hose which will damage the hose. 6. If equipped, remove the rotor retaining screws. 7. Remove the brake rotor by pulling it straight off the wheel mounting studs. To install: 8. If installing the rotor on the rear brakes, use a commercially available locknut wrench, or equivalent tool, to turn the caliper piston clockwise into position in the cylinder, then align the cutout in the piston with the tab on the inner pad by turning the piston back. 9. If installed the rotor on the front brakes, completely retract the piston into the caliper using a large C-clamp or other suitable tool. 10. Install the brake rotor onto the wheel hub. 11. Install the caliper assembly over the brake rotor and install the guide pin or mounting bolts. 12. Fill the master cylinder to the proper level with fresh brake fluid. 13. Install the tire/wheel assembly and lower the vehicle. 14. Pump the brake pedal until the brake pads are seated and a firm pedal is achieved before attempting to move the vehicle. CAUTION Do not move the vehicle until a firm pedal is obtained. 15. Road test the vehicle to check for proper brake operation. InspectionSee Figure 4 Fig. Fig. 4: Use a micrometer to measure the thickness of the brake rotor. You must discard the rotor if it is not within the manufacturer's specifications Whenever the brake calipers or pads are removed, inspect the rotors for defects. The brake rotor is an extremely important component of the brake system. Cracks, large scratches or warpage can adversely affect the braking system, at times to the point of becoming very dangerous. Light scoring is acceptable. Heavy scoring or warping will necessitate refinishing or replacement of the disc. The brake disc must be replaced if cracks or burned marks are evident. If the rotor needs to be replaced with a new part, the protective coating on the braking surface of the rotor must be removed with an appropriate solvent before installing the rotor to the vehicle. Check the run-out of the hub (disc removed). It should not be more than 0.002 inch (0.050mm). If so, the hub should be replaced. All brake discs or rotors have markings for MINIMUM allowable thickness cast on an unmachined surface or an alternate surface. Always use this specification as the minimum allowable thickness or refinishing limit. Refer to a local auto parts store or machine shop, if necessary, where rotors are resurfaced. If the rotor needs to be replaced with a new part, the protective coating on the braking surface of the rotor must be removed with an appropriate solvent before installing the rotor to the vehicle. Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Brake Pads REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print Front See Figures 1 through 5 Fig. Fig. 1: Use a wrench to loosen the lower caliper mounting bolt Fig. Fig. 2: Once the lower caliper mounting bolt has been removed ... Fig. Fig. 3: ... pivot the caliper up, out of the way for access to the pads Fig. Fig. 4: Remove the brake pads by sliding them to the sides Fig. Fig. 5: Typical Acura brake pad shims CAUTION Older brake pads or shoes may contain asbestos, which has been determined to be cancer causing agent. Never clean the brake surface with compressed air! Avoid inhaling any dust from any brake surface! When cleaning brake surfaces, use a commercially available brake cleaning fluid. 1. Use a siphon or clean turkey baster to remove about half of the brake fluid from the master cylinder. 2. Raise and safely support the vehicle with jackstands. 3. Remove the front wheel and tire assemblies. 4. If necessary, remove the brake hose mounting bolts from the steering knuckle. Regardless of their wear pattern, when brake pads are replaced on one side of the vehicle, they must also be replaced on the other side. It is advisable, however, to complete one side before beginning the other. 5. Remove the caliper bolt and pivot it up and out of the way. 6. Remove the pads and shims. 7. If the pad thickness is less than the service requirement, replace them. 8. Clean and check the brake rotor for cracks. To install: WARNING When reusing the old brake pads, be sure to install them in the same positions to prevent an increase in stopping distance. 9. Using an old pad as a cushion, push the piston into the caliper to allow enough space for the new pads. Or, you can use a large C-clamp, or other suitable tool, to completely retract the piston into the caliper. 10. Install the pad shims and the pads. 11. Apply molykote M77®or equivalent grease to both sides of the shims and the back of the pads. Do not put any on the friction material. See Figure 6 Fig. Fig. 6: Apply a suitable anti-seize lubricant to the pad mounting surface. This will enable the brake pads to slide freely throughout their service life The pad wear indicator goes on the inside. 12. Pivot the caliper back over the pads. Be careful not to crush the boot when pivoting the down. 13. Lubricate the caliper mounting bolts. See Figures 7 and 8 Fig. Fig. 7: Lubricate the caliper sliders with synthetic disc brake caliper grease. Fig. Fig. 8: Install the caliper sliders once they have been greased. 14. Install all the mounting bolts. 15. Depress and hold the break several times to ensure they work. 16. Carefully road test the vehicle. Rear 1. Use a siphon or clean turkey baster to remove about half of the brake fluid from the master cylinder. 2. Raise and properly support the vehicle. Remove the rear wheel and tire assemblies. 3. Remove the brake hose bracket from the rear trailing arm. 4. Remove the caliper shield. 5. Unfasten the caliper mounting bolts, then remove the caliper from the bracket. 6. Remove the pad shims. 7. Remove the brake pads. If the brake pads are worn below specifications, replace the pads. To install: 8. Use a commercially available locknut wrench, or equivalent tool, to turn the caliper piston clockwise into position in the cylinder, then align the cutout in the piston with the tab on the inner pad by turning the piston back. 9. Clean and remove any rust from the mounting bracket and caliper assembly. 10. Clean the brake disc and check for cracks. 11. Apply Molykote M77®or equivalent grease to the back of the brake pads and shims. Do not apply to the friction material. 12. Install the brake pads and shims into the caliper bracket. 13. Install the brake caliper, then install and tighten the caliper mounting bolts. 14. Install the caliper shield. 15. Depress the brake pedal several times to build the pedal back up, then road test the vehicle. INSPECTION You should check the brake pads every 6,000 miles (9,600km), and any time the wheels are removed. Inspect both ends of the outer brake pad by looking in at each end of the caliper. These are the points at which the highest rate of wear normally occurs. Also, check the thickness on the inner brake pad to make sure it is not wearing prematurely. Some inboard pads have a thermal layer against the steel backing surface which is integrally molded with the pad. Do not confuse this extra layer with uneven inboard/outboard brake pad wear. Look down through inspection hole in the top of the caliper to view the inner brake pad. Replace the pads whenever the thickness of any pad is worn within 0.030 in. (0.76mm) of the steel backing surface. For riveted brake pads, they must be replaced if the pad is worn to 0.030 (0.76mm) of any rivet head. The disc brake pads MUST be replaced in axle sets, for example, if you replace the driver's side front brake pads, you must also replace the passenger's side front brake pads. This will prevent uneven wear and other brake system problems. 1. Remove the brake pads and observe their condition. 2. Measure the thickness of the brake pad's lining material at the thinnest portion of the assembly. Do not include the pad's metal backing plate in the measurement. 3. If you can't accurately determine the condition of the brake pads by visual inspection, you must remove the caliper, then remove the brake pads. See Figure 9 Fig. Fig. 9: Measuring brake pad thickness Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information DISC BRAKES Print CAUTION Older brake pads or shoes may contain asbestos, which has been determined to be cancer causing agent. Never clean the brake surface with compressed air! Avoid inhaling any dust from any brake surface! When cleaning brake surfaces, use a commercially available brake cleaning fluid. Back to Top Body Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Antenna REPLACEMENT Before beginning this procedure, check with your local parts supplier as to the availability of the antenna. This part may only be sold at your local Honda/Acura dealer. 1. Remove the negative battery cable. 2. Gain access to the antenna motor. 3. Remove the trim panel. 4. Detach the connector from the motor. 5. Disconnect the antenna lead. 6. Remove the antenna nut from the top of the fender. 7. Remove the motor bracket nut. 8. Remove the motor and antenna as an assembly. 9. Remove the antenna nut spacer. 10. Connect the wiring harness to the antenna assembly. 11. Carefully pull out the antenna while an assistant turns on the radio. To install: 12. Carefully steer the teeth of the new antenna mast cable into the antenna housing. 13. Check the engagement by gently moving the cable up and down a few times. Print 14. Clean and lubricate the antenna mast housing threads with a light penetrating oil. 15. Turn the radio switch off and let the power antenna's motor pull the cable down into the housing. 16. Install the bushing, spacer, and the nut. 17. The remaining steps are the reverse of the removal procedure. Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Bumpers REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Integra, CL, TL, RL Print FRONT See Figures 1 through 5 Fig. Fig. 1: Bumper removal requires a Phillips head screwdriver on Integra models Fig. Fig. 2: As always, note the size and location of each screw as you remove them Fig. Fig. 3: The left and right side fender support brackets must also be removed Fig. Fig. 4: As you peel the bumper away from the front of the vehicle, note the position of the attaching bracket Fig. Fig. 5: View of the front bumper partially removed from the vehicle 1. On Integra, remove the turn signals. Remove the mounting screws at the sides and top of the bumpers. 2. Remove the lower clips and the bumper mounting bolts. 3. Slide the bumper off the brackets. 4. Remove the bumper brackets. Remove the corner slide and the corner slide clip screws. To install: 5. Install the corner slide screws and the slide. Install the bumper brackets. 6. Install the bumper and check that the bumper beam hooks are set in the holes. 7. Install the bumper bolts and clips. 8. If removed, install the turn signals. REAR 1. Open the trunk lid. Remove the mounting screws at the sides of the bumpers. 2. Remove the access panel in the trunk and disconnect the wire for the license plate light. 3. From the inside of the trunk, remove the 2 upper bumper mounting nuts. 4. From under the trunk floor, remove the clips and the under protector. 5. Remove the lower mounting nuts from beneath the trunk floor. 6. Pull the bumper off while feeding out the wiring harness. To install: 7. Install the harness and the bumper. Install the mounting nuts and the under protector. 8. Connect the license plate light wire and replace the access cover. 9. Install the mounting screws at the sides of the bumper. Legend FRONT 1. Remove the covers and the turn signals. Remove the mounting bolts on the sides. 2. Remove the 4 lower skirt mounting bolts and remove the bumper by pulling up and forward. To install: 3. Install the bumper and the bolts. 4. Install the turn signals and the covers. REAR 1. Pull the trunk trim forward to access the 2 upper mounting nuts. 2. Remove the inner fender mounting screws and move the inner fenders away from the bumper. 3. Remove the lower mounting nuts. Remove the upper trim from the bumper and remove the 3 mounting clips. 4. Pull back the sides of the bumper and remove from the vehicle. To install: 5. Install the bumper and the mounting clips. 6. Replace the trim. 7. Install the mounting nuts and the inner fender mounting screws. Vigor Front 1. Remove the turn signals and disconnect the harness. 2. Remove the mounting screws at the sides of the bumper. Remove the 2 lower skirt bolts and the 4 lower skirt screws. 3. Remove the 2 mounting nuts from the engine compartment. Remove the caps and the mounting bolts. 4. Slide the bumper off. To install: 5. Install the bumper and secure in place using the mounting bolts. Install the caps. 6. Install the nuts inside the engine compartment. 7. Install the skirt bolts and screws. 8. Install the side screws and the turn signals. Connect the harness connector. REAR 1. Pry out the caps and remove the upper mounting nuts. Remove the screws at the sides of the bumper. 2. Remove the upper trim from the bumper and remove the 3 mounting clips. 3. Remove the 2 lower mounting nuts and clip under the trunk floor. Pull back the sides of the bumper and remove by pulling forward. To install: 4. Install the bumper, clip and mounting nuts. 5. Install the clips and trim. Install the screws and the mounting nuts. Install the caps. Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Doors REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print Front and rear doors may be removed using the same procedure. 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Support the door, by placing a floor jack and a piece of wood underneath the door. 3. Remove the bolts from the door stop arm. 4. Remove the connector on the main wiring harness. 5. Unplug any other applicable wiring connectors. 6. Matchmark the location of the hinges on the door. 7. Remove the hinge bolts and remove the door assembly. To install: 8. Position the door into place and finger tighten the hinge bolts. 9. Align the door with the hinge marks made earlier and tighten the bolts. 10. Attach the wiring connectors. 11. Attach the door stop arm and tighten the bolts to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm). 12. Remove the supporting jack. 13. Connect the negative battery cable. ADJUSTMENT When checking door alignment, look carefully at each seam between the door and body. The gap should be constant and even all the way around the door. Pay particular attention to the door seams at the corners farthest from the hinges; this is the area where errors will be most evident. Additionally, the door should pull in against the weatherstrip when latched to seal out wind and water. The contact should be even all the way around and the stripping should be about half compressed. The position of the door can be adjusted in three dimensions: fore and aft, up and down, in and out. The primary adjusting points are the hinge-to-body bolts. Apply tape to the fender and door edges to protect the paint. Two layers of common masking tape works well. Loosen the bolts just enough to allow the hinge to move in place. With the help of an assistant, position the door and retighten the bolts. Inspect the door seams carefully and repeat the adjustment until correctly aligned. The in-out adjustment (how far the door "sticks out" from the body) is adjusted by loosening the hinge-to-door bolts. Again, move the door into place, then retighten the bolts. This dimension affects both the amount of crush on the weatherstrips and the amount of "bite" on the striker. Further adjustment for closed position and smoothness of latching is made at the latch plate or striker. This piece is located at the rear edge of the door and is attached to the bodywork; it is the piece the latch engages when the door is closed. Although the striker size and style may vary between models or from front to rear, the method of adjusting it is the same: 1. Loosen the large cross-point screw(s) holding the striker. Know in advance that these bolts will be very tight; an impact screwdriver is a handy tool to have for this job. Make sure you are using the proper size bit. 2. With the bolts just loose enough to allow the striker to move if necessary, hold the outer door handle in the released position and close the door. The striker will move into the correct location to match the door latch. Open the door and tighten the mounting bolts. The striker may be adjusted towards or away from the center of the car, thereby tightening or loosening the door fit. 3. The striker can be moved up and down to compensate for door position, but if the door is correctly mounted at the hinges this should not be necessary. Do not attempt to correct height variations (sag) by adjusting the striker. Additionally, some models may use one or more spacers or shims behind the striker or at the hinges. These shims may be removed or added in combination to adjust the reach of the striker or hinge. 4. After the striker bolts have been tightened, open and close the door several times. Observe the motion of the door as it engages the striker; it should continue its straight-in motion and not deflect up or down as it hits the striker. 5. Check the feel of the latch during opening and closing. It must be smooth and linear, without any trace of grinding or binding during engagement and release. It may be necessary to repeat the striker adjustment several times (and possibly re-adjust the hinges) before the correct door to body match is produced. This can be a maddening process of loosentighten, check and readjust; have patience. Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Fenders REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print See Figures 1 and 2 Fig. Fig. 1: Open the door to gain access to one of the fender bolts Fig. Fig. 2: Lift the fender off of the vehicle once all fasteners are removed 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Open the hood and support the hood with the prop rod. 3. Remove the cowl vent panels. 4. Remove the front fender splash shield(s). 5. Remove the parking lamp(s). 6. Unfasten the two front fender-to-front sidemember retaining screws 7. Remove the screw at the base of the front fender body behind the wheel opening. 8. Unfasten the screw from the rear of the front fender at the A-pillar. 9. Remove the screws from the top of the fender along the top of the apron and front sidemember. 10. Remove any shims as necessary. 11. Remove the fender from the vehicle. To install: 12. Position the fender into place and finger tighten the screws (and shims if removed) on the top of the fender. 13. Install the remaining screws (and shims if removed) finger tight. 14. Align the fender and install shims if necessary to properly align the fender. 15. Tighten all the fender retaining screws. 16. Install the parking lamps. 17. Install the front fender splash shields. 18. Install the cowl vent panels. 19. Lower the hood. 20. Connect the negative battery cable. Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Grille REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print See Figure 1 Fig. Fig. 1: Exploded view of the front grille removal-3.5RL shown, others similar 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Open and support the hood. 3. Remove the grille retaining nuts/screws and any retaining clips, then remove the grille. To install: 4. Position the grille, making sure the retaining clips are secured, then tighten the retaining screws. 5. Lower the hood. 6. Connect the negative battery cable. Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Hatch REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print The help of an assistant is recommended when removing or installing the hatch. 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Open and support the hatch. 3. Remove the trim from the hatch. 4. Detach the hatch trim panel by pulling the trim panel forward. 5. Remove the hatch spoiler if equipped. 6. Detach the connectors and remove the wiring harness. Before removing the wiring harness, attach a string to the end of it. This will enable you to pull the harness back through upon installation. 7. Remove the rear wiper motor. 8. Remove the upper anchor bolts from the rear seats. 9. Remove the upper quarter pillar trim panel. 10. Remove the roof trim. 11. Pull down the rear headliner. Do not use excessive force when pulling down on the rear headliner, it is fragile and will break easily. 12. Support the hatch, and remove the support struts. WARNING Do not raise the hatch too far. The edges of the glass may come in contact with the roof line. 13. Remove the mounting bolts and carefully pull the hatch from the hinges. 14. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Hood REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print See Figure 1 Fig. Fig. 1: Use a suitable paint marker to matchmark the installed position of the hood brackets The help of an assistant is recommended when removing or installing the hood. 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Open and support the hood. 3. Protect the body with covers to prevent damage to the paint. 4. Use a suitable marker, or scribe marks around the hinge locations for reference during installation. 5. Unplug any electrical connections and windshield washer hoses that would interfere with hood removal. 6. While an assistant helps secure the hood, unfasten the attaching bolts, then remove the hood from the vehicle. To install: 7. Place the hood into position. Install and partially tighten attaching bolts. 8. Adjust the hood with the reference marks and tighten the attaching bolts. 9. Check the hood for an even fit between the fenders and for flush fit with the front of the fenders. Also, check for a flush fit with the top of the cowl and fenders. If necessary, adjust the hood latch. 10. Attach any electrical connections or windshield washer hoses removed to facilitate hood removal. ALIGNMENT Once the hood is installed, tighten the hood-to-hinge bolts just snug. Close the hood and check for perfect seam alignment. The hood seams are one of the most visible on the car; the slightest error will be plainly obvious to an observer. Loosen the bolts and position the hood as necessary, then snug the nuts and recheck. Continue the process until the hood latches smoothly and aligns evenly at all the seams. Do not adjust hood position by moving the latch. The hood bolts and the hinge mount bolts may be loosened to adjust their positions. Shims may be used behind the hinge mounts if necessary. When everything aligns correctly, tighten the bolts securely. The elevation of the hood at the latch end may be adjusted by turning the rubber stops or cushions. These bumpers have threaded bottoms and move up or down when turned. An annoying hood rattle on bumps may be caused by these cushions being missing or out of adjustment. Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Outside Mirrors REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print See Figures 1 and 2 Fig. Fig. 1: Remove the interior mirror trim Fig. Fig. 2: Squeeze the connector harness to release the wiring from the mirror assembly 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the door panel, as outlined later in this section. 3. Remove the screw cover and the retaining screw for the mirror cover. 4. Unplug the connector for the power mirror. 5. Unfasten the three mirror retaining screws, then remove the mirror. To install: 6. Place the mirror into position and install the retaining screws. 7. Attach the connector for the power mirror. 8. Install the mirror cover, retaining screw, and screw cover. 9. Install the door panel, as outlined later in this section. 10. Connect the negative battery cable. Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Power Sunroof REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print 1. Open the sun shade. 2. Tilt up the glass. 3. Remove the bolts and then the glass from the assembly. 4. Remove the necessary hardware to gain access to the sunshade. 5. Remove the sunshade. 6. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 7. Detach the motor wiring harness connector. 8. Remove the motor mounting bolts and then the motor. 9. Detach the drain tubes. 10. Unfasten the mounting nuts, then remove the sunroof frame from the car. 11. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Side Sill Panel REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print See Figures 1, 2 and 3 Fig. Fig. 1: Remove the screws from the under side of the side sill panel Fig. Fig. 2: Pulling the side sill panel away from the rear wheel well Fig. Fig. 3: View of side sill panel and retaining clips 1. Remove the side sill panel by removing the necessary screws from the front and rear wheel wells. 2. Slide the panel forward and remove. 3. To remove the side sill panel clips, turn them 45°. To install: 4. Slide the clips onto the side sill panel. 5. Install the panel on the car by aligning the clips with the holes in the cars body. 6. Press lightly to ensure the clips have fully seated in the body. 7. Install the screws that were removed from the wheel well. Back to Top Acura Coupes and Sedans 1994-2000 Repair Information Trunk Lid REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print The help of an assistant is recommended when removing or installing the trunk lid. 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Open and support the trunk lid. 3. Remove the inner trim from the trunk lid. 4. Detach the connectors and remove the wiring harness. 5. Remove the trunk lid mounting bolts and then the lid. 6. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Back to Top